I can't tell you how grateful I am fort your incredibly detailed and instructional video. So refreshing to see the mistakes in either thought, or implementation. Humility is rarely on display. Cheers my friend, and thank you so much for your time and work.
You sir are a lifesaver. Im doing my own custom exhaust with long tube headers. I will add the oil pan gasket job since i will have all of that disconnected. The names ofsome of that stuff is reall helping me. Thank you!
Follow the directions exactly in the Chilton manual Get ramps and Jack stands to get it up pretty high. You are going to need a good box end wrench to get the oil pump off and it's a bastard to get back on, but it's possible. When you are putting the oil pan bolts back in make sure to only start the threads, and get them all in before tightening. You do have to take off the upper intake manifold and you will literally have to press the engine against the firewall be careful with the fuel lines. It's a hard job but it took me 5 hours to do it. Make sure to use black permatex on the half round gasket corners and you have to shove the edges in a little bit. It's a real akward full body contortion getting the oil pump back in and holding the oil pan at the right angle you may want to ask a buddy for help
One guy told me to clean up the engine and oil pan then drop the pan cut the old gasket to get it out. Clean up all mating surfaces. Cut the new gasket at one side by the area were the pan starts to arch put in the new gasket and were the cut meets put some good RTV like "The Right Stuff" and bolt back up your pan and wait 24 hours then add new oil and filter. This can be done buy just dropping the pan with out have to lift the engine. You still my want to drop they exhaust system to give you more work room under the truck.
I did my f 150 oil pan replacement years ago,going after my oil pan on my new to me 97 f 350 in the next couple days,must be methodical and remain calm,thank you for the refresher Heico......
This video was really helpful (and I'm glad I watched enough to catch that you did actually have to take the plenum off before I started lol), as I was also having a lot of trouble getting the pan past my transmission and y-pipe. However I did find that if I raised the engine up enough, I was able to slide the pan forward over the frame and then tilt it almost vertical to get it out the front of the engine compartment. Of course the big BUT to this is that I'm replacing my timing cover gasket at the same time, so I had already taken the radiator, fan shroud, fan, and timing cover off before doing this, so I had the room at the front. So if you are going to do it this way, you'll just have to figure out for yourself if it's more worth your time and effort to mess with the exhaust and the oil pump rather than mess with the radiator. But by doing it that way I didn't have to mess with the exhaust at all, and I didn't even have to take the oil pump off, just disconnected the tube from it. Hopefully this helps anyone else trying to do this, it's a huge pain but it's saving me hundreds of dollars to do it myself!
@@ddandavis2149 First I had the rad fan and radiator off as my repair manual said to do, and I had the y-pipe disconnected from the exhaust manifolds, and the upper plenum removed. I think the key for me was having the timing chain cover off since I was also replacing that at the time, so I had some more room at the front of the engine to kind of tilt the pan upwards as I was pulling it forwards. I also had to jack up the engine basically until it was hitting the firewall (much more than the few inches the manual said) at the top, and then even a little farther, which I wasn't super comfortable with. Then I had to reach inside the pan from the rear after it was loose and take out the oil suction tube (I forget the actual name for it). Basically I did it this way because I couldn't for the life of me get it out the back without it hitting the transmission, and it seemed like the only way I could was to either cut the y-pipe or remove most of the exhaust system. But since I had the timing cover off anyway I think it ended up being less work for me to just go that route.
Neospirifer thanks for the reply man, i think i might go your route as my 302 is leaking from everywhere so i might as well do the timing cover as well haha
Thank you so much for this video. I am going through this "process" right now and you answered my questions very well. You earned my subscription today for sure. Good luck to you my friend.
Did mine without jacking engine or removing exhaust. Just take the pan bolts out and the pain will drop an inch or two and then cut the old gasket out clean up your mating serface and carefully weasel the new gasket down under the pickup tube and into place and tighten the bolts. Total project takes about 1 hour if you take your sweet time. Work smart not hard.
I just did this and I did not have to take the manifold off. Might make it easier to take it off but taking the oil pump off, exhaust and motor mounts are all that you should have to take off.
Hmmm looks like a lot of work. Maybe I will try just tightening the oil pan bolts first to see if that seals some of the leaks. Thanks for this video though.
I have a 1996 F150, FWD with 226k miles on it. Maintained it well and it run s good, however rear seal and oil pan gaskets leak. This procedure doesn't look like a home project. Thanks !
I did my 96 f150 many years ago,me and a friend who is a heavy equipment mechanic,13,hours,not for the faint of heart,warm garage,correct tools steady methodical pace,and hopefully you can drive another vehicle for the weekend so you don,don't, have to do it all in a day,I am now getting ready to replace the pan on my 97 f 350.....good day....
engine hoist or floor jake . loosen motor mounts. lift the motor.put 2 by 4 wood. the jake might not clear the pan. put the your hand inside with the gasket. work it around the jake might clear to put in the gassit in place engine hoist is the best. """" Engine Hoist Friend""""
It's easier to just pull the engine out so you can do the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gaskets and transmission front seal. If you don't you will probably be sorry you wasted so much time to just change the oil pan gasket. If the oil pan is leaking the rear main seal, and valve covers aren't far behind, just bite the bullet and knock them all out at once.
I have done these pans with motor in the truck but it is a royal pain in the ass. After doing a couple I found it easier to just pull the engine, it's more efficient.
