In todays video we repaint the chassis, prep and paint the cab and also weigh the truck. Little bit of repeat filming on painting the chassis, sorry but somedays it be like that... Check out my Instagram! Wyatt_Stengel
@@Freddy_spec yea when you don't count on YT for big money you can take 3 or 4 years to build a truck and do it right the first time you don't need to make tons of progress to keep people interested and watching .. this is something true enthusiasts watch and understand
A chromoly ford 9" with brakes and everything is like 150lbs so youd lose like 350lbs just by changing to ford 9" and 150lbs from the 4l80e thats around 500lbs, going from a steering box to a manual steering rack aswell would drop a hell of alot of weight, you can also go to a motorplate setup and get rid of the k-member and motor mounts and you can front half the chassis and that'll pull even more weight out of it. I think you can easily get this thing to low 3k race weight with you in it if you switch some things up.
A fofd 9 inch before it goes in a race car this is what's done to it. A back brace put on it so the axle tubes Won't bend . Axle tube flanges are cut off bigger bigger flanges are put on to Support bigger Axel barren because now you're running 35 spined axles over 28 spine stock You would have to do that to a stock 9" housing for it to be able to live in a race car or race truck
Epoxy is only to seal bare metal.Filler soaks the epoxy to seal it off. You will need to apply 3 coats of High build primer or primer of your choosing. Start off at 180,filler etc. you will feather edge in all your body work with more Primer. Step it up to 220,primer again go 320/400 if you are happy paint it. If not go the extra step after your 320/400 to 600 and then spray it. All about effort put in now. Great progress made and love seeing happen..
When painting over filler spray them first once, let if flash. Then go wider on your next coat over the filler area and then from there you can paint the whole piece with your other coats. Courser fillers also absorb a lot more paint. I like using icing on my final coat. It’s very smooth and fine
When priming over body filler, spot it in heavily with primer first. Ideally, 3 to 4 coats worth of thickness over just the filler first. Then coat everything else. That’ll help cover it, and also give you plenty of extra primer, directly over the filler, to help level everything when block sanding. Hope this helps.
I’ve smoked 3 joints over a period of 3 hours I have also been painting but bit different my mountain bike I loved this video keep going fine uk been watching for ages great work 🤙👍🚜
Really enjoying this whole build. Learning lots. It's also getting really expensive for me. I have '04 1/2 2500HD. It's lightly modded but look forward to dialing it up in the future. Thank you for what you do.
HVLP. High volume, low pressure. Good for primers and some single stage paints, but I prefer using a RP (reduced pressure) gun for 2 stage or more base coat, mid coat, and clear coat. And it’s always good to spot prime over body filler before laying the whole panel. Be sure to give it flash time between each coat and feather out each coat you spot. Start with a larger area and end with just the area where the body filler is. It seems like it takes more time, but it will actually save time later as well as preventing the spot from being noticeable.
Any areas I do heavy body work I typically will roll on high build primer then block it out, will help with blend/ feather and fill in those scratches. Plus no over spray!
Grab a can of rustoleum flat black primer to finish the roof. I can't say how well it would hold up to extended exterior elements but for something interior like that I use it for a flat black paint. Think shelving and such. Pretty resistant to scratching.
For future reference my stock 71 c10 longbox with a 350/t350 combo weighs right at 4000lbs without me in it. As for the filler soaking in the epoxy primer it will do that. You really need to use a filler primer to level everything out and give you some mil thickness to shape and block it out flat. But single stage urethane is pretty thick so if your not too concerned with it being super nice then itll probably cover a fair bit of stuff.
Lookin good Wyatt. It's alot to paint by yourself when i sprayed my supra I was running around like crazy but atleast we can say we did it ourselves not to many people can say that now days.
I have a new 67-68 C-10 fiberglass front end and swb bedsides that were ordered for a customer. Never installed. Will sell for less than half price. Reply if interested-If you reply, I should get an email
I have been out of the body work game for quite a while but when I did it for a living we always used a sealer to keep the body work from showing through before laying down the primer. If you use any of the air dry spot putty and don't seal over it the body work will show through after paint because the thinner will absorb into it making it swell initially, then when it dries it will shrink exposing exactly where the putty was used. Probably not the end of the world on a race car but when it is a customers car it can be the difference between making money on the job and paying for the work yourself. Lol
Let's goooooo! I'm so excited for the progress on this truck. You're building my dream truck that I wish I had the time and money to build. I have a couple c10s. Good work brother. Ita starting to look like a truck again!
