Hello Andrew. 🙂 So exciting to see the first inside wall go up. Your building skills are fantastic. Glad to see you had a fan going to get a breeze. Great job and God bless.
Love watching this. My daughter and SIL will possibly be building one on our property and I will share this with her to watch you complete your home.... thanks for taking the time to video all this for us to follow along...
Doing great man. Awesome videos. One tip for when your framing interior walls. Run your bottom plate all the way down like the doot openings arnt there. Keeps both sides of door jamb straight with each other and square with each other. Then later you just cut out the bottom plate with saws all.
Pocket doors are really good for space savings but you have to buy a quality frame for them. I've several pocket doors and they've been working fine for more than 15 years now. Zero issues. I used the Johnson hardware frame.
Good decision on not going with the pocket doors, you will thank yourself down the road. Nice job on the first interior wall it's starting to look like a house now. You are going to have a well built home when finished.
Well Andrew you did the top plate the right way that is how you are supposed to do it. I'm a contractor and by code it's how it is done. Love the video
I have a couple of comments. When you raise an interior wall the top plate should extend over the connecting wall to tie them together, also there should be what is called a T in the connecting wall to tie the two walls together. Putting blocks in the wall is not enough to nail sheet rock to. This will only make your corner seams crack. You can check RU-vid on how to build and use Corners and Tees. After 30 years in construction my wife finally understands my OCD about building. Keep up the good work. You have something to be very proud about.
I didn't know about the top plate, yikes! As for the corners, I started backing the 2x4 with a 2x6 today for a edge to screw the sheet rock into. Hopefully that is acceptable.
If you have any more of that dense wood, try to save hay for the latch sides of your exterior door frames. Make them tougher to shoulder/kick/pry open. Any little bit helps.
I've been hearing most people say no blocking for drywall seams, but my gut wants to make sure it's there. Do you think 4ft blocking is needed? I'll add blocking at the wall intersections, thanks!
@@TKCL not for seams. For inside corners is what I am referring to. The easiest way to do it is to add a 2x6 to the outside wall, perpendicular to the other studs, mounted flush with the inside. Way easier to do it up front than after
Looks good! A small bit of advise for the ceiling joist, cut them an 1 1/2" short on the outside walls. This will allow you to run a solid band all the way around in stead of having to block in between each joist. Save time and effort. My advise is cheap so it cost what you paid for it. HAHAHA.
My wife brought up a good point that the sliding outside doors block wall space for pictures, clocks, paintings ect. It's definitely an option, but we need to make sure that we want to sacrifice the wall space.
All you may need to fix that paslode gun is to clean it up and change out the drive pin, I had one and it did the same thing. What I mean by cleaning it up was you will have to take it apart to get to the drive pin out and all the parts and cylinder will be exposed.
The reason we're changing our mind on barn doors is because my wife brought up a very valid point. Where the door slides on the outside of the wall, that takes up wall space and you cannot hang pictures, a clock or anything like that.
Congrats on the first inside wall! After seeing the blueprints, I am getting a sense of how it's going to look. In addition to your other talents, you're a great teacher too! You're doing an awesome job, Andrew!! God bless.
Hi, Andrew! Kudos for your strong work ethic. You are dedicated to every project you start and carry it to completion. In a few more months you, Tiffany, and Bullet can sit on the porch and enjoy the view of your beautiful oak tree. God bless all of you.
That wall will be holding all the attic weight including the lumber and decking and ceilings. I would put 3 metal jack posts in that wall and never have to worry about attic weight on the vertical 2x4s. Over built is always better than under built.
I'm no engineer and went with what he suggested. Everything else seems overbuilt IMO, but I understand a 2x4 wall seems underbuilt. We don't plan on having much in the attic as far as weight.
In a pervious video, you mentioned that on either side of a door/opening, you needed bolts in the ground on either side. It didn’t look you had enough room for a bolt by one of the door openings (the center door opening) that was near a wall seam. Is that because it is tied into the first section that has a bolt in the ground close enough to the opening?
How are you tying in your perpendicular walls? Usually you would leave a gap in the top plate on the long wall and then allow the top plate of the perpendicular wall to extend over
I put blocking in three different spots on the wall I was tieing into. Nailed the new wall into that. I'll have a video out on that tomorrow. It's easy to rip out and replace it you think it it doesn't work. I now see your suggestion of a 2x6 as a perfect choice for sheet rock tie in. I didn't know about the top plate notch
Wow what a difference having an interior wall framed. It is really starting to make sense on how the house is going to look. Did you remember to get the last few straps you needed to finish up that outside wall? If you are like me you go to the store to get them and come home with everything but what you went for! You are doing a great job!
Yes we did, we originally had a 1 1/2 story home designed but it fell through with covid problems. We took the bottom floor and expanded it into what you see now.