A walk through on how I powder coat rims and have them turn out immaculate every time. With no orange peal or light spots. Powder is super durable wet black from Columbia Coating.
that black gloss looks good. Just bought a new front bumper and roll pan for .y 2nd gen ram im restoring and was thinking bout powder coating them black to match the paint
Hi thanks for such an awesome demo on power coating rims I have a question I see u heated the rims before you coated what temperature did u heat the rims and did let them cool down before u coated Thanks
Just watched most of your videos. I'm currently building myself a powder coating set up in my personal shop. Great info on here. Just curious because you havent uploaded in awhile. Are you still powdercoating? If so maybe you can start adding some more content!
Yes I am still powder coating. Please check out my FB pages. I have gotten so busy marking videos have become very hard and get in my way of Coating. And yes I will me getting back into more videos when I get leveled out. Lol
Reinaldo Rivera I have grown a lot since I made this video. I very seldom hit coat any more. But you can hot coat the second color if you want but it takes experience to make sure you don’t over coat and cause runs. If cold coating lower the KV about 1/2
great content. I can see the swivel, the hook, but how are you attaching to the rim? I think I see an eye-bolt, but are you using washers or just the nuts? How does the coating look in that place when done? Thanks!!
If you were to get these power coated do you ever have to worry about getting tires put on the rims and scratching all the Power Coating? Great job on the rims can you tell me what make those rims are I'm looking for them for my 2017 Hyundai Veloster Turbo.
McClureSean start at 5-10psi and adjust as needed. Also use a 300L head lamp, it will help you see all the lite spots. Make sure you ground is very good, the better ground to the part more powder will stick.
Great job Armour Koating! Question: Do you think you could get an "old school" black chrome look by a 3-layer method...chrome, small amount of black (or translucent black), then clear-coat, or was that all done by some type of anodization? Thx!
@@2024_rebranding So the clear coat is superfluous? So when is a clear coat appropriate? As an engineer, I am good at attention to detail....following specs...even doing DOE's and writing specs, BUT, though I am good with my hands, I am a complete novice at PC. That's why I am asking you, a professional that uses patience, care and that the end results speak for themselves. Thx!
Need to make sure to cover up the back of the center disc, If there is even a 1/2 mil difference from one side to the other you will have wheel wobble at high speed.
Senor-Titty-Sprinklez I am getting it up to about 300-350. Second coat is a little more tricky but you just have to play with it. Also the thickness of metal has a lot to do with it also. There are so many variables.
ok cool thank you im about to do my first set of rims this evening and wanted to make sure it gos smooth and keep up with the vids i enjoy watching your work
well you are sort of correct. the gun i was using would not always work correctly with rims. i have gotten an better gun since then. and yes now i do not pre heat the wheels. also it wont hurt if you do preheat you just need to be really good at controlling the amount of powder.
@@2024_rebranding Got it! Did you outgass the wheels before you hot-flocked the wheel, or did you hotflock the wheels and then paint over them? Everyone has their own technique and I'm trying to find mine.
Really I don’t do it that way anymore. The black I use would alway orange peel, so when I hot flocked it the powder would be smooth. And my set up wasn’t that good. Now I have a commercial set up and I don’t do any more hot flocking
Tristan Lopez well I have 2 ovens the first I built and it is a 4x4x6 then I bought one form Columbia Coatings and it is a 6x6x12 that is the one you see me using in this video. You can see my other one in earlier videos.
there are some things i dont understand , first you pulled the preheated rims out the oven, and then you turn the hot rim without using gloves ? second, when you shoot the powder on the second rim , you did not connect the ground wire, third, baking the rims about 28 minutes, why 28 , you only need about 10 or 15 minutes, can you explain this all ?
ivan n I have been touching hot stuff for a long time I am use to it. Where the hook is on the it cools very fast. Yes I pre heated it and leaving them in longer is not going to hurt them. Also with it being preheated you don’t get any electric problem. When the powder touches the hot part it automatically melts and sticks to the part.
ok, thank for the answer, please look at the results at my video and tell me what you think please, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uxkty_TUD8I.html or my website with lots of pictures thank you
What media do you use trying to get better results and the stripping side of the house. Also I ordered my HS 3.0 DPW the other day can't wait I got a Harley Frame and parts to knock out.
How do you like that gun? I have been thinking of getting the 3.0 DPW I have an older Wagner Box feed and I absolutely hate it never works right and spews chunks of powder out..
You SHOULD be blowing the powder INTO the powdercoating booth to your right to capture at least some of the powder thats going to make the shop slightly messier, and why don't you already have proper lighting on a larger job like that, instead of having to ask the person operating the camera to do it while you're already working.
I'm learning and just starting into powdercoating in my area, but I use a LOT of gloves, eye, ear, hearing, breathing and foot protection, have been welding and fabricating for 18 years now, I want what I have to work after my retirement.
Armour Koating ok here I go. Powder coat is a plastic so when you coat the back pad along with the bolt holes when you tighten down your wheels you are squeezing the plastic. So your torque reading which you should ideally follow when installing wheels would be inaccurate due to the fact the plastic is being squeezed so when you drive move pressure on the powder and more force on the powder. So in time the wheel will never hold an accurate torque spec. As a powder coater I sure that can cause a liability with any custom wheel. Give it a try. Torque a wheel on your own car for a wheel which is powder coated and then check it after a month or so of daily driving. It won’t be the same. I’m not saying it’s deadly it’s just inaccurate and area that can fail. Especially with the more coats applied to a wheel, primers, clears and multistage colors. So now about powder coating rotors same idea. Layers open layers of possible issues. I’m not saying definitely accidents waiting to happen. But not worth adding more possibilities.
