RD28 GQ pump swap + 11mm upgrade: How To 

Happy to help mate. I do not run idle speed increase cable but you need a gas pedal cable. No electronics accept the shutoff solenoid.

Glad you liked it, it is a bit of a daunting task. But once you get over the fear factor its a fun interesting job, just make sure you watch this video a few times and take notes on the important parts e.g match marking the throttle assembley and checking the governer.

Hey mate, my glow plugs aren't working at all, just wondering what you did to bypass it

Hey mate, there's a video on my channel on how to tune a VE pump with a boost comp

Have you set the pump timing with a dial indicator down the end? You may have to loosen the pump bolts and rotate it a bit towards the engine to get it to start easier. It should idle at 700 RPM. You may have to unwind the fuel screw a but to get the idle to dip

Hey mate glad to hear my knowledge is reaching people over the oceans. My first idea to try and fix that would be to clean the pump relief valve as shown in this video. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wiHpeZhgnXM.html If this doesnt help feel free to message me directly on instagram.

@@ebayenthusiast42 salve posso avere il tuo contatto instangram

@@alessandrocirimele4858 ebay_enthusiast42

The governer is there for the sole purpose of limiting rpm by cutting fuel. A pump will go bad due to wear or seals such as delivery valves leaking, the vane pump being worn and not building pressure correctly or having excessive dirt inside it.

Would make sense, i didnt know they made an automatic rd28 from factory.

if yours is a GU patrol you splice the rpm wires into the crank angle sensor. if your plugs are useable on both you can shave the rpm plug down and stick it into the crank angle sensor plug.

Check the description but what you do is you unplug the cam sensor and plug the crank sensor into the plug and just bolt the crank sensor up to the oil pump like normal

Truth be told, the electronic governer means the car is more fuel efficient. The downsides to the electronic system is that it is very hard to tune easily without an expensive chip/modifier box. The electronic throttle has a very short throw, which means that fine input is hard. An example of this is how it surges into boost when your at about 1700 rpm. The electronic AFM and crank angle sensor are very sensitive to any water/mud ingress which can cause all sorts of dramas and money replacing each component when throubleshooting. The mechanical pump offers everything the electronic one does, but let's you tune it with a screwdriver and not have to worry about any electronic signals accept the 12v to the fuel solenoid. It's a very good swap to do as you learn about diesel fuel systems and you can do alot of other work while your in there.

A mixture of things tend to cause it. The first one would be the crank angle sensor, and the second to blame would be the maf sensor. I think alot of the time it's because people have gone out mudding or through a river which can interfere with the engine sensors and electrical plugs on each. Aswell as that the electronic system isnt easily tuneable and pretty underpowered in stock form.

Hola compañero Puse en la descripción del video los colores de los cables que se necesitan empalmar entre sí. la razón por la que los empalmé fue porque el conector de cableado estaba pegado a mi automóvil. Si tiene los conectores de cableado utilizables, puede enchufar el enchufe del sensor del cigüeñal en el enchufe del sensor del ángulo del árbol de levas si corta un poco de plástico con un cuchillo. Usé traducir, así que espero que puedas entender.

@@ebayenthusiast42 ok muchas gracias

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pwJkURq9m_0.html i explained the install in this video

ive changed the description with the wiring. i missed out one of the clips while editing.

most likey your cut solenoid mate. you can try by removing your cut solenoid and taking the little spool and spring out then installing it. this will stop it being a solenoid but will gaurntee you that there will be diesel going to the hydraulic head. if the engine starts you will have to kill it by blocking the intake with a piece of wood or something hard. thats the only real thing that could stop fuel getiing to the injector lines. how long have you cranked it for?

@@ebayenthusiast42 i figured it out mate. I didn’t have the metering sleeve lever fitted into the metering sleeve. Works good now just trying to get the timing right. Great vid btw🤘

@@MUDDYMARLINSAUS thanks mate glad it worked for you. mines still timed up by ear and runs like a dream.

Watched your videos and found a bunch of diagrams of the VE pump. You do some great stuff mate 👍

the 11mm plunger, metering sleeve and hydro head are all taken off the GU rd28 ETI pump.

It is a 12mm pump rebuild and new Injectors

@@user-dl3ki2qg6z what colour smoke? If its black/grey smoke thats partially burned diesel which is expected with a 12mm pump. Id suggest trying to wind out the fuel screw. If its white smoke thats completely unburned diesel which is bad, that would be caused by incorrect injector pump timing, no / low compression or wrong cam timing.

@@ebayenthusiast42 yeah it's like a mix of white and black it's gooing for a tune up tomorrow so wish me luck and thanks for your info

the plunger bore hole needs to be machine reamed to within 0.01 of a mm in order for the plunger to create a diesel tight seal down the bore. not something doable unless you have a machine shop and the nesescary tooling. much easier to use the heads that have been manufactured by Bosch. when buying directally from machine shops the hydraulic head, plunger and metering sleeve all come as one i.e the plunger or hole is machine first and all the other parts are made to suit that specific part due to the working tolerances.

@@ebayenthusiast42 understandable mate