Simple & clear demonstration, straight to the point , thx man , i really needed to know whether my scooter has a rectifier or a stator problem....... ( hot) gratefulness from Hurghada, Egypt ✅
EXCELLENT video... thank you thank you!!! Also thanks for showing what to set the voltmeter to in the beginning... so many videos but for a numbskull like me they don't show or explain what the voltmeter is set to!! My CBR F3 thanks you, too. She will be all better and well now!!
Thank you so very very much good sir. You can't believe how happy i am to find your video so i could assest if it was my generator or the regulator who was faulty, and 2 out of 3 phases are dead on the regulator.
Excellent video. Right balance of what you need to know with some room for further research if results indicate you need to. I struggled to follow some of the more technical videos on this subject. This was really useful because it provides me a benchmark of its f'd, it's probably ok.
'I' means infinity i.e. open circuit no resistance value detected. My regulator I am going to fit on my SS50 is solid state with 4 wires. Yellow and pink are AC (from alternator) IN. Red is + out and green is - or ground. The existing selenium rectifier is bolted to the frame (- chassis or earth) input (AC) is white and output + is red. Earth or chassis is common (ground) to both AC input and DC output
beautifully made this video any one understand the testing technique of R/R and multimeter setting with diode really i thanx to you for your nice video....
Very nice diagnosis! But do you know why there is a reading for one polarity and not the other? It's due to something called a " Zener diode", normally incorporated into a rectifier pack ( or diode pack for a car). It can only receive energy in one direction, much like a LED ( light emitting diode ), thus removes the AC voltage and disposing of the energy as heat ( explains the cooling fins, or in a car alternator has a fan blade incorporated inside which cools the diode pack as it turns) whilst keeping the DC voltage to feed to your battery and necessary electrical components. Just thought i'd shine a light on the "why" as you showed the "how". All the best!
+Bone T will a bad stator fry a new voltage regulator? i installed the voltage regulator without changing the bad stator and tried to ride. eventually the bike died.
+James Sheridan He's testing the three-phase rectifier, not the regulator part of the circuit. There's no indication that the test signal is hitting a zener; instead he's testing the basic p-n junction silicon diodes. If there is a zener diode in the part (which there probably is) it's going to be in the regulator part of the circuit board. When you say it "can only receive energy in one direction" A) it "receives" in both directions, it only PASSES one side of the AC wave (basic understanding of how a p-n junction works would be helpful here) and B) the whole point of a zener diode is that it WILL conduct on the reverse bias once a certain voltage is reached.And blocking one side of the AC wave has nothing to do with why it gets hot. The heat is produced by the regulating mechanism, which on bikes is usually a shunt with either SCRs or MOSFETs as the controls (SCR-controlled will run hotter than MOSFET-controlled).
Zener diode is not supposed to let current flow backwards so im assuming feeding power back the wrong way you wanna see open circuit on all the stator pulse wires ... im new to this too
I have replaced the stator, coil, , and battery to find out that the cdi box was bad. I replaced the cdi box. It ran great for about 4 hours, Then the battery blew up and the cdi box melted. I tested the voltage regulator that is identical to the one you show in your video. The ''new'' one and it reads the same. I was told by a few people that the regulator is what caused the battery to blow or over charge. Now I don't know what to do. Any thoughts?
Thks four your excellent video I have a Piaggio Zip 2T other day I drive and same one stop me and tell me my rear lights is blinking after 2 days all my lights is blown front and rear I’m surprise my fuse don’t blown also when I drive in full throttle same times is cut don’t the speed what you think is my regulator fault thank you help appreciate
Could well be got this info from another site full link below. If the voltage regulator is intermittently having problems then it’s most definitely the source of your bulb problems. This is due to spikes of high voltage jumping through the system which in turn blow the bulb filaments and/or headlight fuses. www.driven2automotive.com/blog/why-do-my-headlight-bulbs-keep-blowing/#:~:text=If%20the%20voltage%20regulator%20is,filaments%20and%2For%20headlight%20fuses.
Grabbed this from another site it sais: There are 3 yellow wires coming out of your stator. Disconnect the plug, and set your multimeter to AC voltage, and test across each of the 3 wires. ie if there are 3 wires, A B and C, test A-B, A-C and B-C. The three voltages should be the same, and should be up around 50-60V when you rev the bike to 5000rpm
Bone T well I just did it and got similar results lol. One open, others are the same on one unit, the other varied pretty good which both are bad to begin with. Thanks for the quick response and video!
I have a 82 kz1000 kaw.when I try to start it I have wires melting the last time I fixed the Burt wire another one started to melt it is going to box? under the battery any suggestion where to start
Bill Spalek It could most definatly be your regulator at fault. Mine again is faulty as same thing I start mine and immediatly burning smell and wire melting. Im no auto electritionso could be anything. im gonna repalce my regulator again and hope that that fixes it. Wiring on these older bikes are a nightmare. If all else fails take it to someone who knows what there doing.
Hey I have a Honda CBR 600 FI 2002. I just had a question when I start my motorcycle and I drive it for a long time after I turn it off it doesn't want to start anymore. I have to push it. And when I want to start it it sounds like if the battery is dead in till next day it turns on like nothing. I was told it could be the Rectifier sensor..do you think that's what's wrong. Thank you! Just wondering if u could help me find out what's wrong!
Jaime Lopez I found this: Problems with the ignition coil can make an engine impossible to start when warm (or even stop running when it warms up), apparently this happens on motorbike engines quite often and is caused by a break in the HT coil. A carbon track forms inside the coil where the wire is broken. When the engine is cold the carbon track has a low resistance and it conducts well enough so the spark is strong enough to start the engine, when the engine is warmer the track resistance is greater and the spark less strong. This problem gets worse over time as the carbon track gets bigger and bigger, the only remedy is to change the coil or electronic ignition module.
my friend's gixxer keeps blowing the ign fuse... we took a look at the rectfier and got mixed results... one of the connectors seemed to be melted, any ideas?
HELP ME! I'VE FALLEN AND I CANT GET UP! I'm having the same problem on my CBR. Left me stranded for miles.. Did you ever happen to check if your battery was dead before replacing? I don't want to buy another if I don't need to.
Even though the first faulty rectifier nearly boiled the battery to death it did still hold a charge for a bit but lost it quickly so I replaced it as didnt want to rely battery. And believe it or not rectifier went again on bike this time not charging at all. I did not replace the battery this time and i am still using it. So if the faulty rectifier is overcharging (boiling the battery you will be able to tell as this will give off a really eggy sulphure smell) replace battery. If its not charging at all you should not nead to. Hope that helps
Here's today's bonus question: What do the numbers that appear on the meter mean? And yes I do know the answer, I'm just pointing out that it's conspicuously absent from your video
Bone T It's the forward- and reverse-bias readings of the diodes in the rectifier portion of the piece. Since the output of the stator is AC it needs to be rectified (hence the name) to DC in order for it to be A) stored by the battery or B) usable for the DC applications on your bike, which is pretty much everything. The diodes in the rectifier perform this task by only passing one polarity of the AC waveform, which is why you have six diodes for three phases. Ideally your forward bias reading will be ~.500VDC drop and the reverse will be an OL. The video is correct, the one with .000 is bad since the reading indicates the diode has shorted, and the PN junction has been either destroyed or bypassed, essentially turning the diode into a conductor. It will no longer do it's job. Just pointing out it doesn't hurt to know WHY it doesn't do it's job anymore or what that job is. I wasn't trying to be a smartass, just trying to point out that the video is simplified to the point you may think you're doing the right thing when you're not. If you follow this video and get good readings on all 12 checks (three phases, six diodes, 12 checks) you may think that means your rec/reg is good and then spend all kinds of time and money replacing the stator, flywheel, harness, etc. because what the video fails to mention is that the diode test he is performing DOES NOT test the regulator portion of the piece. It's possible for the SCR in the shunt mechanism to be a smoking crater in the circuit board (figuratively speaking) and the piece may still pass the test shown. And unfortunately there's really no way to test the regulator. Best thing to do is take it to the local shop and ask them to hook it to a good running bike to see if it works, or send it off to an electronics shop, though they'll probably charge you so make sure you exhaust the local; i.e. free avenues first.
Bone T NP like I said wasn't trying to hijack your vid or anything. On a side note I realized I forgot to answer my own question lol. If anybody does want to know, a diode is pretty much the most basic semiconductor device out there; an anode and cathode produce a single PN junction. The numbers you see appearing on your meter are different from a typical resistance reading in that they are the actual voltage drop necessary to forward-bias the diode into its conducting state. With silicon-based diodes it's usually about .6, shows as about .50-.55 due to the trivially small amount of current the meter is actually using in its test signal
Hi, i have a outboard engine, and i think the regulator is damaged, because the tach isn´t work and there is a burned wire connection on regulator. I have to put a new regulator, but i have a doubt. Can i connect the stator to regulator random or is there a specific conection? It has 3 yellow wires, 1 black and 1 red. Can you help me? the red and black is no problem to connect.Thanks, and great video!
Decio Vasconcelos I would say dont connect it randomly I would imagine there is a specific connection. But beyond that i could not tell you how to connect. Sorry
The bike will potentially start but the faulty regulator won't charge your battery or could overcharge causing your battery to heat up. Eventually the battery will die as a result and then the bike would not start due to a flat battery
I have a 2001 GSXR 1000 K1. I've been fighting with this thing for 3 months it started off with a turn signal relay because dude i got it from had the wires bare hangin in there. I ended up replacing the ignition the kill switch to start switch bypassing the kickstand sensor, new battery, replaced almost entire wire harness, then fired it up and ran out of fuel sucked crap into system, took the tank off pulled the fuel pump out cleaned it all out real well put in new fuel put it back together ran it with sea foam then it fired up but was missin and backfiring bad. Adjusted tcs and finally was sounding good pulled out of my yard it died and wont start at all now.... I was about two seconds from setting it on fire so i pushed it outside threw a bottle at it and there it sits. Every time I walk by and look at it I just want to keep the f****** thing over and go in there and fix my gotdamn Harley and say f*** Suzuki!
Ian Bolchi got this info from another site.... A bad diode in a rectifier will dump AC current into a system. The AC current heats up the stator and the heat destroys the insulation and ultimately carbonizes it turning it into a low resistance brick. Most stators are three phase AC systems so there will be three diodes in the rectifier that can potentially fail and allow AC current into the system. As well, the additional heat destroys the insulation on the leads in the wiring harness that can cause a cascade failure of the harness due to heat degrading insulation.
got this info from another site..A bad diode in a rectifier will dump AC current into a system. The AC current heats up the stator and the heat destroys the insulation and ultimately carbonizes it turning it into a low resistance brick. Most stators are three phase AC systems so there will be three diodes in the rectifier that can potentially fail and allow AC current into the system. As well, the additional heat destroys the insulation on the leads in the wiring harness that can cause a cascade failure of the harness due to heat degrading insulation.
I'm no expert on this but I would first check that every component is doing what it's supposed to to. For example start with the stator use the multimeter to make sure that's doing what it should and move on to the next. It could be an issue with wiring somewhere.
Hello. Negative lead on positive side I get following reading : .553,.553,.544 Positive lead on negative side : .557,.521,.551. Are the small differences indicating faulty rectifier? Thanks!
Hi, as the differences are nominal it wouldn't suggest to me that this is indicating a fault, they are all around the same area.But I'm no expert on this
Bhai honda cb shine 2016 new model ka regulator kaise check kare? Aur night me jab break switch ya pass ya side signal use karo to pawer full milta hai, kya problem ho sakti hai?
my motorcycle in good condition i just bougth a 12 by 12 12v batery and after 4 days its been low i cant star it and i charge it in a charger in a dc device and it goes well and after 7 days my friend barows mt motor and after he started it in 4 times its not starting he said and wen he came home the light are not torning on but wen i run the motor and go aroud the pce faster its started to light but its not starting its just the light wen i click n start botton its noting can u recomend me what the problem man thank ^
+fahad rangaig The first thing i would do is try another battery in it to make sure the battery isnt faulty. If its doing the same thing you would need to work back from the battery and check the regulator. If that appears to be ok then its probably your stator which generates the electricity that goes through the regulator and then charges the battery.
Ramel Stevens Hey man sounds like your rectifier is converting to DC or your battery is worn out. I'd have the battery load tested after I checked the rectifier. should get you cruising in the hammer lane in no time.
+Ramel Stevens I'm assuming the battery was the first thing you checked; Voltage. You replaced the stator, so if it's not the battery or stator then it would be the rectifier most likely since bikes are a 3 point charging system. :)
I'd had this problem before and sign was battery was not been charging down to faulty regulator rectifier. This is just to show the difference between a good and bad one.
Could well be the regulator/rectifier you need to check if that works first check out this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Vj1p7Ffi0Zs.html
@@babyloncrusade1 bro the service guys checked my bike using rectifier from another bike (same model).. and the battery is charging...s this have anything to do with magneto coil??bcz the battery is charging with another rectifier.. after they service my bike will there be any further problem with battery? .. they said the battery has no problem it shows exact 12v but its not charging...im little concerned bro... i left my bike there bcz the parts aren't available due to covid 19
@@subinkrishnakt4058 regulator rectifier aren't designed well and do have a tendancy to fail. If they have tried another and that works it looks like that's the problem. I wouldn't expect you to have any issues if that's done. But you can't be 100% but should be ok
When I bought the bike the owner told me that they had just changed the rectifier and that it needed a new stator. I replaced the stator but batt held charge only for like 30 min. So I just recently changed the battery. I took it around my neighborhood a couple times and I cut it on and off when I put it back on the tender it said 90 percent. Should the battery be 10 percent gone already It's a brand new battery
D Stanley Id kinda guess no it shouldnt it sounds like its not charging which again would point to the rectifier. If they didnt use an original they can be faulty even from new I have had it myself. Id keep an eye on the battery see if its loosing more. If it is looks like it is you may have to invest in new rectifier again
When a stator goes out, it takes the R/R with it. So if he just replaced the R/R and left the bad stator, the stator took it out. Now that you've replaced the stator, replace the R/R and it should be golden
hey I have a problem with my honda steed vlx 400 model 1994 , suddenly my regulator rectifier died , I bought a new regulator made in Taiwan , I put it in my motorcycle all is good , one moth latter or two months my new regulator is died , I bought a new Taiwan regulator 1 week same of that one and is died again and every regulator I put in my motorcycle a little of time and is died and burn and trash and I dont know what I should do I pay above the 200$ of regulatores I want any help please , thank you thank you very much , and I am an aircraft maintenance student I want to start with any test , stator or rotor or battery or if there any short in my circuit or if the new regulator is made in Taiwan and the motorcycle is japan please any help thank you.
Sorry didnt reply sooner had the same issue went through about 3 and they were cheap versions if you do get an original it should be covered by some sort of guarantee. they just get to hot and over heat or fail and toast your battery. you could try mounting it somewhere where there is more airflow to cool it or hook up some sort of fan to cool it.
id start with not bying a cheap one they never last. And the fan was just a suggestion ive read that other people have had a degree of sucess doing this. I cant say it will never do it again
I'd say that sounds like that's completely knackered. I would double check that your multimeter is on the right settings to be sure and will only be able to tell if you have a good rectifier and its reading on all
@Bone T thanks for your reply, since then I checked the battery voltage it was low 11.6v with the bike not running , then I checked it while running and it went up to 14.4v ,then I put hhen lights on and revved up to 5000rpm and the voltage was still over 14v , so with this I'd say the stator and rectifier seem good there doing there job🤷♂️ it's got to be the battery cells
Austin Granger it could if it has one. read this below from another site. the twisting of the throttle with the lights on seems to be an easy test to see if it is doing any sort of charging: One way to see if you are gaining a charge from your alternator or generator is to use a multimeter. What you will need to do is to test the voltage of the battery while the engine is not running. Now that you have taken this measurement start the engine and test the voltage once again. You should notice that when the engine is running the voltage should be slightly higher as the generator is now providing an extra charge to the battery, which will result in the higher reading. Expect this new reading to be up to around 14v if your alternator or generator is working as expected. Possibly one it even easier way is to turn on your motorcycle headlights and give the throttle a bit of a twist. If you notice that the headlight has now become brighter since you increased the throttle, then this means that the alternator or generator is providing an additional charge to the battery. This test should have only taken you 10 seconds at the most and requires no skill at all, it is an easy way of quickly indicating if there may not be something quite right, especially if you don’t have a multimeter to do any further testing by yourself.
Tq, i will try to check it 1st, for your info, before it's happen when i start a few seconds the starter crank you can hear and after that it's gone , no crank anymore .anyway thanks for ur feedback
***** Hi the readings are right it is a resistance reading between a diode. Not nowing to much about it myself i believe the multimeter runs a current through it and measures resistance (how much is getting through). This was an easy way to show that there was a fault with one of the rectifiers as they should of had the same readings at the same test points, and as one had failed it clearly pinpointed the failure by showing a different reading. So the current was unable to flow between the 2 points giving a 0 reading and showing a faulty diode within the circuit. Could be totally wrong here so if anyone knows any better or can explain it better then please do so. Thanks
Bone T Yeah, I figured the most of it, but I didnt see why there was a resistance if there was no power. Clearly the multimeter should give some voltage.
Ashleigh Wheeler wow 48 volts that's going to cook your battery. if you have used 2 meters and both say pretty much the same and your getting 48 volts then probably safe to say it's had it. new regulator
