Been riding just over 40 years now and recently riding with a couple of very seasoned and capable riders who have both gone to the Rekluse over the years, so now it's my turn. I went from a Beta 300 back to the YZ250X...without a starter, so I'm hoping this helps fill that gap. Great vid with reassurance!!!
Thanks for the explanation Jimmy. I ordered the CX DDS for my ride. I wondered which springs would be best for trail riding. I heard the CX comes stock with heavy wedges but I don't know. I did email rekluce about the wedges so we'll see.
Fancy centrifugal clutch. As a MX guy, I never thought I would consider running one of these, but the ability to completely eliminate compression braking on my 4 stroke has my curiosity piqued. Suspension works SO much better when unloaded, and you can still use it like a standard clutch 👌🏻
Just installed the radius x in a 21 crf250r. To get the installed gap I had to tighten the clutch cable almost to the end of its limit on the cable itself and at the lever. Switched to an aftermarket lever with a longer adjustment screw for more adjustment during riding. Also per the install diagram they show the throwout washer going on top of the throwout bearing which in the 20-21 models the bearing is pressed into the pressure plate. It has to be installed between the clutch lifter and throwout bearing. I verified this by speaking to a tech at Rekluse. Just wanted to post this in case someone else ran into these issues on their newer model crf250r
Hi Jimmy, once the clutch plates wear out on the RadiusX, do you have to order them from Rekluse all the way, or will the manufacturer cluch plates work? I have a Royal Enfield Interceptor 650, in India.
I've just installed an EXP 3.0 on my Gas Gas EC 300 2 strokes. Still tunning it. Only one ride, everything was all set as manual recommends. I was surprise with the very low engagement but soon enough I hit the first trail I noticed some things: 1. very early clutch squeal (I'm using Motorex 10w30 gear oil - full synth); 2. I was riding 1 shift down and in higher RPMs in places where I used to be in a higher gear and in lower RPMs, maybe I was wanting to avoid clutch squeal and slipping because higher RPMs provides a better bite of the clutch and that's because of the design of the rekluse itself (centrifugal force to expand EXP disc); 3. my bike boiled the coolant very early than before. That was odd; 4. Clutch lever feel was different when I wanted to override Rekluse, I could not managed to adapt to it yet. It was harder to control the front on low speed 1st gear steeper hills where before I needed to slip the clutch to control power output on the rear wheel; Well, more tuning and testing to be more definitive. First step is to change the EXP springs do red (soft) and check everything again. Recheck my air filter to make sure it's not related with the overheating. Maybe change gear from 12x48 to 12x50. One thing to consider, We use to ride here very tight wood trails, 3rd gear maximum...
dmpeg thats the fact in semi automatic clutch... low rpm less hold so it ended in using it more in high rpm than usual with the manual clutch... guess u had more fuel consumption too
there is a guy in a video that shows a rekluse with some rubber parts all shredded with just 6 hours of driving and I think is the most advanced,any opinion about it,thanks in advance
On steep enduro descents, if you lock the rear wheel momentarily, the auto unit will collapse and it will go into freewheel or neutral. You just have to blip the throttle and the auto unit will expand again and go into engine brake.
do you have picture from the different springs and wedges too? is it possible to combine springs and/or wedges in one/same system too or only one kind of springs/wedges? is it possible to coat the rails with specieal coating for less friction? does it work wit more faster reaction? the rings are they made from steel or aluminium? the fastner made them from steel too? asking if it possible to the the EXP ring lighter and inner less friction for higher reaction of the heavy system;)
Do you have any tips for making the clutch lever softer? I have the fully automatic clutch on a ktm exc-f and some times, especially in the sand I need to use the clutch, but with this system the has become very hard to pull.
This can not really be changed easily unless you do modifications to lever position and master cylinder piston size. And if you are trying to pull the clutch when the power is on you have to overcome the additional force of the Rekluse pressing on the plates.
Hey I got a question?? I bought a 2013 Husaburg TE300 that the previous owner Installed a rukluse auto clutch core exp and did not give me any of the parts that he replaced when is stalling it. Question is what do I need to do to go back to a manual clutch??
U seem like the man I need to talk to. I got a buddy just got a 2017 crf450. Has a cx rekluse. I have a 22 crf450. He don’t want it. I wanna try it. Rekluse says it won’t work. But legit they look the same. The clutch setup hasn’t changed much from what I can tell. Other than just a extra plate
Nice video, thanks for the explanation of how they work. Being new to dirt biking I would like to why you would want one of these? Do you still need to use the clutch from take off or to modulate power? Is this purely an anti stall feature?
well it is really an anti stall cause with it the crank got less weight to turn... unlike the manual, in neutral, still the primary driven shaft is turning along with the crank.
I have one on my Kx250 and going from 2nd to first I can still feel the engine brake. However, I bought mine with the clutch on it so I have no clue what my tune is.
Hi I'm trying to get an auto clutch for my wife's yamaha fazer she has a bad left hand But there don't list one for it Would it be possible for you to send me the dimensions of the clutches you have to try and match one or I'll send you my dimensions to try and match one I have no where here in the UK to match one thanks Mike
Yes and we have raced MX with them. Idle on a two-stroke is a preference, not a rock-solid setting. I prefer my two-strokes to just barely idle, gives better off-throttle traction.
I tried the EXP core 3.0 ktm 250sx and it felt like someone was feathering my clutch for me. Starts seemed ok, but I think I can now tell who's running one now. It has a high gear lugging sound. Also, I can't tell if my bike is in nuetral anymore, I made a mistake thinking I was in nuetral and it TOOK off! be careful. Make sure your kill switch is always working.
Is it the clutch actually chattering or is it the chain slapping? This noise is often confused. If the clutch has been glazed (slipping too much, got too hot) this can also happen. So depending on instance new plates might be needed.
The replacement teflon pads are only 0.8mm thick. They barely protrude above the surface of the pocket they fit in. They are basically already worn out when you put them in. When the pads wear, the cast steel weight grabs on the aluminium frame and wont recede into the released position. I have bought 1mm thick teflon sheet off ebay and am making my own pads.
Let’s create an auto for auto sake, just because I can’t use a manual....clutch...manual gearbox or manual gear change....why not use hand change, hand clutch or even direct drive....some dumb asses will always be convinced....
