Video shows step by step details of how I replaced the lower control arm on my 2009 Chevy Cobalt. The reason for replacing it was because of a knocking noise when driving on rough roads.
I came to watch the video to see if i can accomplish this on my car. With Jesus all things are possible. He always helps me when i have to work on my car. He is so good.
i spun out in the intersection and hit a curb now my steering wheel wobbles and the control arm looks bent but idk if it’s suppose to be like that or i’m tripping
You might try looking at the one on the other side to see if it looks different. They are mirror image but it might help you see what it should look like.
Be careful guys with the bushing bolt...mine snapped on me...after trying too turn it with a breaker bar then a bar over my breaker bar the bolt would hardly turn then just snapped off...will give update in few days.
DIY with Dave The long bushing bolt about an inch into the threaded area of the bolt. I just dropped it off at a garage too deal with it & get broken half of bolt out & new control arm in. I tried soaking it down with PB Blaster then the bolt just snapped off when trying too loosen it.
So there’s a cage up in the frame up above the bushing control arm bolt, my bolt is broke off in that cage right we’re the nutt is that holds the bolt. Only way too get into the cage in the frame is too cut it open with a dremmel tool & remove the broken bolt, the bolt is loose in there I just can’t get fingers in there too remove it. Garage refuses too cut into the cage so I told them too put everything back together & I would have it towed home & cut into the cage with a dremmel tool too remove the bolt.
What part of the country are you in? Here in northern Illinois ( The salt belt ) That rear bolt will almost always weld itself to the steel sleeve in the center of the bushing making removal a complete nightmare!
MegaTruck20 i replaced my whole front suspension of my 08 cobalt but I can’t get that bolt out... it just spins as if it’s stripped in the bushing? But it tightens back up? What should I do? Torch it?
I noticed mine by rattle in steering wheel and went to tighten lug nuts after changing pads,rotors,calipers, and I noticed when I tighten them the wheel moved front to back. I looked under it as I had someone tighten on lug nuts and seen it was moving left to right so bad bushings for me
Yes, I think it is recommended to do an alignment after you change front suspension/steering parts. If your tires are old and you don't mind uneven wear, then you can probably get by until you have to change the tires again.
What do you mean an additional 180* I'm assuming turn it 180degrees more after torqued to spec?? But I dont want to over thread it or break the bolt just curious
Sorry it took so long, I thought I responded to this earlier, but it did not register. Yes, after you reach the torque turn it an additional half turn.
I have a 2005 cobalt and the wheel vibrates when I stop and my steering wheel moves. Do you think it might be the bushings? I already replaced almost every part. Thanks in advance.
If you look at 13:57 and following you can see approximately where I have the jack stand located. I think it is supporting the car on the engine cradle (welded frame).
What size is that last bolt? My buddies I'm working on lost that bolt and itll be months if I wait on GM to send the replacement. I have a parts store here that can get me the exact bolt just dont know the size I need
The shorter two bolt specs can be found at oemcats.com/oem-parts/11516356.html The longer one on the rear can be found at oemcats.com/oem-parts/11589009.html
@@Ctb-rm5hg if it’s on the drivers side it’s the hardest to work on. I had to saw the bushing top and bottom which cuts the bolt also this allows the bolt head to come out ,I used a carbide tipped blade I ended up making a third cut at the top because the top cuts are on an angle then it came out.This is very hard to do with out a car lift .when you get the bushing out you still haft to deal with the rest of the bolt in the nut, drivers side extremely hard if rusted to nut because I couldn’t even touch it. Once you make a cut on the bushing you can’t drive it to a shop to get it fixed.good luck
Problem solved! The 21mm bolt spun, tearing the rubber away from the metal sleeve (metal sleeve was froze to the 21mm bolt) & spreading the metal apart just enough that I stuck vice grips on the metal sleeve after that I soaked the nut & sleeve w/pb blaster & waited till the next day. The very next morning slapped my wrench on the bolt & presto the lower control arm was free!
I am not sure, there are different part numbers available for lower control arms so I would check with your local auto parts store to make sure you get the correct part for your car.
No all cobalt parts are interchangeable except for the engines for the most part. A 2.4 engine part may not fit a 2.0 or a 2.2 for example the ac compressor
I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I might suggest that it will go better for you on judgement day if you don't take the Word of God so lightly.
