Gordon one thing you’ll find out with that tool is that it will get cocked but you also must use a hammer and smack the yoke from time to time while you’re impacting on it once you get the U joint out clean up all the bores try not to Sand much sometimes on old yolks you can make them lose without trying very hard make sure and put some anti-seize all of the bores Thanks for all the videos keep them coming when you can and take care pal
Tiger tool or not this was exactly how it goes in real life great video.those guys that make the video where the u joints cooperate and come out can kick rocks
When I am replacing these tight uni joint cups I always use a wheel cylinder hone inside the yoke ears to make the cup slip in and out with my fingers it makes the job a lot easier. No pullers needed ,no wacking with hammers and best of all no rollers fallen inside.
The hose on your rattle gun is stuffed at the coupling, I always fit on my air tools a 12 inch length of hose to the coupling. It gives better and freer movement to work with and the couplings last longer.
Gordon, It looks like you had the impact gun on the lowest power setting. Not sure if that was intentional or not. I've been seeing ads for that tool on RU-vid for months and I'm glad you got a chance to show it in action, it's too bad the company couldn't send you the tool to demo. Man! That drive shaft is freakin' huge!!!
I caught you skipping on my video John, I realized I had the impact on low power at the last cap I was pressing off. I made a short video of that to save for when I have enough pieces to do a "bloopers" video, I have about 4 now, not enough yet.
Tiger tools are worth there weight in gold - and there just as expensive. I bought one a few years back and have been using it ever since. Theyy come in sets if you can afford it but they are worth it. They also make a Tiger Tool to press out kingpins. If you own a shop there worth every penny.
These are awesome tools, I have spread the ears of a yoke before with it though on a really seized bearing cap. now when a seized ujoint comes in, I just give the bolt a smack with a big hammer , tension up again and repeat.
Just a small bit of advice, make sure to WD40 the crap out of the cups before removing as they rust on big time and you can slightly bend the ears apart on the yolk and end up with some added vibration and expenses. Other than that, they work awesome.
That seems to work pretty well. First time seeing a Tiger Tool up close and in action. I've heard they're expensive, but they also say they're worth it. What's your impression, so far? Waiting on part 2 :) Man, I wish some of the trucks I've had to drive could have been kept in service as long as 1156B has been. Mind you, some of the junk I started out with lasted a little bit too long for my liking (at that time) so maybe I should be careful about what I wish for, lol.... Thanks for sharing your D-I-Y adventures, Gord.
OTC tools also has one for the same price as the Tiger and I think I saw another name too when I was searching. I can't have an opinion on it yet since it's the first time using it and I have nothing to compare it with, I got the job done, that's what matters, it beats a hammer.
should have greased the u joint first, then remove the zerk before using the tiger tool. when you have the cup about 3/4 of the way out remove the tiger tool and a smack the yolk with a 4 lb carburetor adjusting tool and the cap will pop right out.
I got a question.. my pinion seal was leaking n i replace it. But it still leaking.. u think it the center bearing.. cause i see lot of rust in the center bearing
too much runout of the pinion, caused by either incorrect preload on the pinion, or failure of the pinion bearing, often preload is caused by pinon bearing failure. Carrier bearing or center bearing is not a reason for pinon bearing failure. It only supports the driveshaft. When your carrier bearing goes bad you will know it. Your driveline will vibrate the worse the bearing gets the worse the vibration.
