About 6 years ago I bought a complete G&P gearbox from Airsoft Global. I never shimmed it or messed with anything in it. This gearbox performed flawlessly. Only thing I did was change the stock spring to a Systema M130 spring, and using a Systema Magnum Torque motor and used a G&P 10.8v 2000mah battery. I can easily say put 50,000 rds through it and never had compression issue or gears breaking. I currently have 2 other G&P gearboxes and they perform flawlessly. Now, I have personally seen a couple of broken gears. Which I don't understand why they break at the shaft. Only thing I can think of is, G&P is using a different type of metal material. All in all I have been happy with G&P quality.
Nice review!!! I'm fairly new to airsoft n tech, but you kinda said everything I've experienced with my G&P ;) Second skirm...selector plate broke :) other than that 30k rounds and still good as new.
I just got in an element max speed motor, shs 7metal tooth piston, shs tappet, lonex shims, shs 13:1's, shs spring guide, shs m120, resettable fuse, 16awg wiring, and a shs delayer chip. Its probably going to shoot 45-up with an 11.1, i am going to use a 7.4, so do i need to cut down the tappet for better feeding, or no with the lower power battery?
One thing I noticed with my G&P, is that the bearings stick out a lot from the outside of the shell, especially the ones for the bevel gear. That gave me problems trying to fit certaing grips. The G&P I.A. grip would not fit.
Brittle selector plate and not much reinforcement, definitely. I was actually shipped one already broken lol. Shipper replaced it, installed it, piece broke while turning the selector piece. What did I do? Grabbed a G&G selector plate and dremeled it all pissed off. Forget buying G&P selector plates agreed.
I have brand new G&P M16VN. But seems like the hop up could be better. I can't get 0.25Gs to fly straight into where i'm aiming. Scrolling the hop up wheel seems like it does nothing to 0.25Gs. But with 0.23 and 0.20Gs I can get 5-10 meters more range and hop up affects to 0.20Gs better. What do you think about that? Also when it was a bit cold, maybe 5-10+ celcius my gun didn't shoot well at all. Range was about 10 meters or so. Hop up rubber was affected by cold weather or what do you think?
i have a G&P and i have a question, how can i use an aftermarket motor if i wanna upgrade from the G&P m120. Especially with the weird motor contacts on the wires, or can those screw on to any motor?
If I put in a g&p 170 motor in for those crisp semi in a stock G&p gearbox will it be prone to easier damage of the gearbox? @valleyriverarms Thanks for the help!
I'm planning on buying a G&P gun, and I worry about its selector plate. What other upgrade or replacement parts can I buy to replace it for this specific gearbox? Thanks.
I've actually since used the g&p selector plate in a couple other guns and they've been holding up. If you want to replace it, SHS or Lonex are good options. And other parts to upgrade really depends on your budget and what you want out of the gun.
I purchased a Thor Rapid phantom. I found a handful of q/c issues and fit and finish problems. I'm not sure if the hop up sticking inside the outer barrel caused my issue or if the 249 style of the dx V2 gear box is just prone to the bevel gear axle snapping. Either way I had three games ( 5k rounds through it ) on it and the semi never really worked so I used it like a m249 . So being that it was 20 days out of warranty evike " can't " help me 🖕. What parts and from what companies would you suggest to help upgrade the gear box? I'm not looking dump a bit load of money into this being it's less than 4 months old.
the G&P spur axles were always the weak point for me. Sorry you had that experience man. I haven't checked on this account in years but if you still care, unfortunately the G&P quality really took a dive over the last couple years. You might be able to salvage it with a new gearset and potentially a stiffer bucking. Not sure if the issue you're describing was caused by a compression jam or something but its a place to start.
@@valleyriverarms I've been messing with different set ups and found luck with a set of shs 18:1 gears , solid bushings, the stock piston and cylinder set. I kept the g&p 140 motor cus it's a beast . After hand finishing all the parts like the hop and outer barrel it seems to work well. I think the main issue was due to feeding because the hop wouldn't " float " in the outer barrel and it caused a jam while doing 40-ish rps( 11.1 on the m140 go brrt ) . Either way I learned a bit and got it happy in the end of the day.
yeah it's really a give or take thing. If they made the bearings go in deeper you would lose shimming space. Only solution I can think so far is to not glue those bearings in
Chris Santiago the Avalon is one of those pre upgraded m4s. A more appropriate comparison would be a krytac and the Avalon. If you don't want to upgrade get the Avalon, if you want to upgrade go with the g&p
Not sure if anyone is still following this. Just received a new one of these gearboxes from evike. I can't get it to cycle. I tried 2 motors both of which turn when not in the gearbox. I messed with the motor set screw but its either free spinning or full lock. Do you think its shimmed too tight? Since its brand new id rather return it or would it be worth cracking it open and taking out some shims?
sorry late ass 2 year old reply. Also worth checking to make sure the polarity is spinning in the right direction on the motors too. I've accidentally installed motors backwards that caused a full lock.
I am thinking about getting the g&p m16a3 but also like the vfc and kwa. I ruled out kwa because I plan on getting a prowin hopup and flat hop. What stock gearbox would be better g&p or vfc. I think this is the one in the g&p m16.
Brother man! Its been a long time but do you happen to know how long that stock air nozzle is for that g&p gearbox? I have a new emg maxx pro hop up coming in and was curious if i may run into any issues before hand, currently running a g&p 281 "billet style" m4 thanks for the break down its super helpful 👍
The spring is way too long, i used a ball bearing spring guide and piston head at the same time and it stripped my piston within 1500 rounds. Also the piston scratched the inside of my cylinders ruining the air seal. Also, looking back, the spacing increase from the ball bearing parts was there but minimal, so it is even more ridiculous that it stripped my piston. Could've been my shim job but it seemed to be pretty good.
Im looking to build a DSG shooting under 400 if I use a spacer-ed Prometheus M150 and perfect compression (out of an MP5 length inner) that should shoot under 400 shouldn't it? Also whats a good cut off lever to upgrade to?
well... I mean you could get under 400 using a non spacered m150. something like 280 but I'm assuming you want like RIGHT at 400. I think you need something like an ms210 or spacered prommy m170. There are varying results depending on the setup to be honest. Hivemind was able to get 400 using a non spacered prommy m170 but I was only able to get like 310 consistently. Depends what's acceptable to you.
It doesnt have to be Right at 400 bc i had issues with my gun being too hot for my field so im "fixing it" anything between 350 and 400 is what im hoping for. If it is a little lower that is acceptable.
well a little lower is still gonna require a hefty spring. You might start with an m190 and see what the gets you unless you want to play with spacers. Riot also has his sp110 spring and spacer kit which should be easier to install.
lol I mean I like g&p guns so I guess sure you could call that a bias. I explain why though so I try to at least quantify my bias. And sure but it depends on what you're looking for. Krytac and VFC are excellent choices as well.
my gun stopped shooting with no sounds what so ever. i opened the gearbox and the trigger contacts looks kind of burned. is this normal or what? if you know anything about whats wrong that would help a ton
you might have burned through your trigger contacts through arcing especially with a higher draw or higher voltage setup. Replace your trigger contacts and try again.
Hi Again ! This is the second time to write something here , after I got mine for about few months , and rarely fire it , now I am having problem with the trigger switch and after open it out , found that there is spark spot on that switch contact .So after I clean it now seen to be ok for a while , I think .So now I have another problem with the cylinder , all the oil ring are become hard no compression at all , even the cylinder head also leak air , so since I have been open them out already , I decided to upgrade it , and I need a recommend here what to get , mean which brand can I use and which is the best for high fps , I am going to upgrade the spring to 150 and above so hope to get some help here , tks .
+Jimngu Gk the cylinder head o rings you might be able to get from a hardware store although I don't know the size. I usually just buy a new cylinder head, shs or lonex are ones I recommend. I personally prefer Prometheus springs.
In my experience with my g&p emg mk18 that I waited almost half a year for, it kinda sucks the motor is high pitched the mosfet sucks and on the first few times I shot it I almost had a lipo fire
The new Mk18's with the i5 gearboxes were really disappointing. They should have been better executed. The Colt licensed mk18's are made way better and feel nicer. Some of the mk18's are now going to come with replaced gearboxes using a Gate ASTER and a more to spec gearbox.
valleyriverarms I am having trouble keeping the trigger in. I noticed that the trigger spring is different because it has an extra joint instead of just being straight. Most other trigger springs I have seen are straight on the end, so should I just grind it off?
valleyriverarms that is what I initially thought and I made sure the tappet plate spring was in place, and it still isn't working. Is there a video you can refer me to that shows how to fix this?
If your air nozzle isn't moving it's either detached from the tappet or the tappet isn't getting picked up by the tappet cam on the sector gear. No video but it's a pretty simple checklist
No matter how much i adjust my g&p hopup, the bucking never comes into the chamber. Therefore i have 0 hopup. How can i fix this? Also if i bought the lonex hopup is it too hard for a non tech to get it to fit?
I just recently learned how to put together a hopup. Would i be able to take it apart and put a nub on there? Also how would i be able to put a lonex in there?
Nah, I shaved off enough on the inside of the grip so it would fit over it. If I didn't glue them in to place, they would press on the bevel, and ruin my shimjob and motor allignment. It fits now. Not that it's gonne stay on there much longer as it's going to be replaced bij a Magpul grip :P
I like the externals on the VFC a little more but the G&P internals are a little more robust. You're really splitting hairs between the two brands if you're talking quality though.
Bought a g&p gear box just like this in a completed gun because everyone said they're good to make upgrades to and it came with a broken selector switch. So I break into the gun to fix it because the gun is functioning like shit, sounds like shit too and motor adjust is doing nothing. Hop up sux, gear box shell looks like cheap metal but does seem thick. I was disappointed to find there's no bearing and its shimmed. My trigger barley makes contact to complete the circuit although im not sure if its supposed to actually slide in there. Im filling like I should have just stuck with KWA but we'll see if I can make the g&p work.
Just got from evike the G&P seal team six Prokit. Do you think using it stock with a 7.4 Lipo will strip the piston or snap the spur gear? LMK so I can swap them out before this big game Im going to.
I dunno. Maybe? Put it all together and if you get misfeeds then start shaving the tappet. And you will probably get crap efficiency with that motor and those gears. Speed gears and speed motors are just not efficient.
uh. 13:1's and high speed motor is gonna give you crap efficiency. It's doable and you can get about 50 rps out of it but it will run stupid hot. If you only need 310 fps build a dsg.
Alright. Ive been wanting to build a custom gun for awhile, and I was thinking about using the g&p complete m4 receiver pro kit for the base. Here it is: www.evike.com/products/42014 Would you recommend it or something else? Also, how hot is the fps with a 363mm 6.03 tightbore? Ive heard a lot of different velocities. Love the vids. Keep it up. :]
I usually recommend buying a complete gun. External parts add up fast unless there's nothing on the market that appeals to you which I doubt. Fps should be around 400ish
