Rigid Collars Install Part 2 (Rear) | Honda S2000 

Thanks for the videos, you're a national treasure

Clear and concise as always, thanks 👍

My note after doing these: create some slack in the ABS wires! They're tied down to the body and the subframe, so when you lower the subframe, they get pulled tight. I didn't break mine but stressed them a lot more than I would have liked. Removing a 10mm bolt on each side allows plenty of slack for them to move freely.

Excellent, looking forward to tackling this soon.

I'd like to see a video (just a list would work too!) of mods you've done to your CR and/or your street S2000. I enjoyed your video on prepping the S2000 for a track day, but it was clearly a lot more basic than what you've done to your car.

BEST DIY videos on RU-vid!

Can we get a review how these feel in car ? How much alignment was shifted ? Any other insight ?

You definitely don't want those subframe bolts to ever seize up. So great tip on antiseize them. Don't skimp! If you're trying to remove subframe bolts and they're stubborn, STOP! You DEFINITELY don't want to break one of those bolts off. Even if you spend an hour on one bolt, it'll be way less than time, effort, expense to hack up frame to replace captive frame nut. As gently as possible, retighten the bolt, the loosen it again, trying to go just a few degrees farther than last time. Manually use a socket wrench, not an impact gun. Repeat the tighten, loosen a little more than last time, retighten process over and over and over until bolt comes out. Patience is worth it! Don't fall into temptation of applying more torque hoping it'll come rest of way loose. Remember how bad it'll suck if you break a bolt. Buy new bolts in this case, and lube them up good. But first, use the old bolt to chase the threads. Grind several lines the side of bolt, much like how a thread tap looks. Clean the bolt threads up as much as possible. Use a wire wheel, and a thread file. If threads don't clean up well, buy an extra new bolt, and sacrifice it as your cleanup. You'll need different sacrificial bolts for each bolt size that was difficult to remove. The cost of these bolts will be trivial compared to if a bolt breaks. Put a little antiseize on your hpke made chaser threads, and repeat the in a little, loosen a little process to thread the old bolt in place. Make sure to carefully start the bolt by hand to prevent crossthread. Maybe even grind a taper into bolt tip. If bolt starts to freeze up back it out until its smooth, go back in. Exercise same patience you used getting bolt out. Remember now its structurally weaker due to those grooves. Now remove your chaser bolt, and use your new bolt, with lubed threads.

Thanks for the video. I just installed mine today but I didn’t remove the exhaust

If you ever get a chance a tailshaft/output shaft bearing replacement video would be helpful to a lot of people. These transmissions are getting expensive, and rebuilding them is starting to be a more cost effective option.

thank you siiiiiiirrrr!!!!

Great video. Is the difference installing these noticeable?

Have you done poly steering rack bushings or direct steering collars? Some people say they improve steering feel but there's not much info online. It would be nice to know how hard they are to install.

I didnt align the rear subframe perfectly when installing my collars and I ended up crushing mine. Vital step when doing this install

damn those strakes are screwed in tight!

Can u tell the difference? Or more just for keeping your alignment better.

There are no Phillips head screws on this car. They are JIS, a Phillips head screwdriver can work but is not ideal. JIS screwdriver works better. Otherwise great video. There are alignment holes on the chassis and subframe that can be used to make sure the subframe is in the correct place. In practice they aren't that useful.

Do you recommend rigged collars? If not, why?