This is a video of how we setup a brand new Baja out of the box before use. Remote & Servo Setup, First Start, Tuning, Engine Run in, Upgrades, what fuel etc..... #baja5b #ezeetrade #rovanbaja
Hello xrmte. That is awesome news! First things first... Take the head off. Check the inner top dome and see that there are no loose particles. Turn crank and see if all is smooth. If all is well then clean gasket off head and crank case very nicely then only place a thin layer of gasket maker and put the head back. For more info feel free to mail me @ ryno@ezeetrade.co.za Maybe I should make a video :-)
@@EZR they sent me a message saying the 32cc was just out of stock but they gove me good deal on a 29cc that was in stock so it should still be an awesome car
@@xrmte 29cc you can also remove gasket for better performance, but dont really have to check other stuff on it. They are pretty good quality. I run a 27.5 on my Rovan. Was a 29cc originally.
Hey decent video…. Quick question tho do these cars come with diff oil and shock absorber oils pre filled or do I need to strip and do this to my new kit which has just arrived? Thanks
Hello Drew Black. In our experience it is something that needs to be checked with every new car. Majority will not have shock oil and the diff doesn't hold oil well. Personally we do not use oil in our diffs. We use high heat bearing grease and pack the gears as much as needed for the application. Less for on-road and more for off-road. Far less diff rebuilds.
Hello there. Have just started watching your videos, you are doing a great job, we need videos like yours. I’m a bit confused about some of the comments stating that you should not break in a 2 stroke engine on full synthetic? What is your opinion? Also is it difficult installing a reverse mechanism. Look forward to your reply. By the way are you in Australia and if so which part. Cheers Rickie
Good day. Thank you so much for the support. I have not seen negative effects running a Baja from new on Fully Synth. That's all I use. I'm from South Africa. Free State
Hey, hoeveel petrol het jy gebruik vir die break in process op idle? Net 500ml? En kan mens daarna die car slowly begin ry op another full tank petrol of weer 500ml? Ek bly hier in China en werk hier. Ek het nou vir my en my broer 2 van die cars ge koop. Actually die exact same model. Dit is -20 tot -31 degrees hier. Het jy vir my enige tips asseblief? (Vir die ys koue weer!)
Good Day, safe mode is set differently on each remote. I think the best would be to see if you can maybe find a Futaba video. The remote Kill switch should do the job above the receiver safe mode, but alwasy good to have back up savers.
Does anyone know if I need to install the shock and diff oil that it comes with? As I did have to do the filter soooo that made me think they're not for spares
Sometimes the shocks come empty so easy to check. But diff is difficult and should have oil already. I would say after 5x tanks of fuel strip the car and check the diff. I don't use oil, I use grease
@@EZR appreciate the feed back mate I gave it a quick run before I did crack a shock and it did have oil and decent rebound so I think I'm safe for now 😅 but I'll take that advice as I did the same with the grease in my outcast and it's worked like nothing else so far :)... I'm going to do that pull down as I think it's not a bad idea at all . I did a one over before I ran it but man did It pick up every loose piece of grass on that paddock solely where the pull start is ,😅
@@EZR I'll check them out.. looking like I'll be pulling it down now anyway... my fn uncle walked over and decided he wanted to manhandle the truck and slammed it to the ground something went crunch and now I'm paranoid something cracked...to say I'm pissed off would Be an under statement.. the rear bash plate isn't sitting right now and it's sagging to the right and the left hub carrier is wobbly as crap now...😤 I'm hoping it's fine but my mind is not going to let that go.... Thanks again mate 🫡
This was a couple of years ago for a customer. I have had many cars after this from Rovan and have not had any shock problems as they do the new Japan 8mm shocks now. But Diff i redo with Grease as soon as it starts sounding a bit rough 😃
Can sum1 help me out please if bought 2 of these km001 and km002 brand new and 1 has a kill switch fitted but wont start at all the other 1 hasn't got a kill switch fitted started cut out and now wont start again can sum1 give me advice please I'm new to this
Good Day Darren. Most easiest fix - make sure the standard 2.4 remote has a failsafe setup, make sure it works and then remove the remote kill switch. But if you really want the remote kill switch to work you it will be too difficult to explain over YT. You will have to take it in to the hobby shop. Are you based in the States?
@@EZR no I'm in the uk it has a standard kill switch on it the 1 ya get with it when it comes outa the box and the 1 that has a kill switch I fitted I noticed last night it didnt have a spark so iv unconnected it and put the stock 1 back on that's the km001 But the km002 I haven't fitted a kill switch on it yet can you tell me the carb settings for the high low and idle screw please as when I got it it started then cut out and wont start back up and I messed with the carb settings can u tell me them please these are 4 days out of the box and cant get them going yet
@@darrenroberts4568 I thought it was the remote kill switch. If the standard kill switch gives issues then its best just to replace. They very inexpensive. Carb settings are H-1½ & L-1¼ with your idle screw turned in all the way.
@@EZR when I bought the cars I bought the package were you got the kill switches with them but there not fitted I fitted 1 but never tried starting it that's the km001my sons 1 I liked the car so bought the km002 the next day for my self I didnt fit the kill switch on km002 just the stock press button 1 on the engine Tried starting mine the km002 it started then cut out so i tried the km001 and his wouldn't start last night I realised it never had a spark so I unconnected the kill switch that I fitted and now it has a spark now both cars have the stock button kill switch on the engine am gunna try n start them in a min thank you for your help I'll let ya know if they start
Hello Saya Yo. What we have found is that there are 2x reasons this can happen. 1) Engine has high compression 2) Technique There are new upgrade very strong Pullstarts available that we put on our high compression motors.
Ezeetrade it will take to long for the rings to seat I will usually do 10 start ups let it get warm just idling shut off and cool I use Blue Marble oil it’s amazing stuff I’ve tried every oil on the market nothing compares to it when using Synthetic it seems you will get more piston rub on the exhaust side of the cylinder
@EZR ok sure thanks bud ur vids are very helpful and u as well thank u again is it ok if I mention in ur channel in my u tube channel tht helps for lots of ppl
@@chucksprinkle1328 Hey, I'm wondering if I should get one, and I'd like to know all there is to know when getting a brand new gas rc. I wanna get the 30.5cc I'm saving up but in the meantime I'm trying to find out how to break it in, what to usé and what to check. Could you maybe tell me a couple things I should or shouldn't do?
Synthetic is the best for your motor. The 2-Stroke racing bikes also use 100% synthetic. I run nothing else than Castrol Power1 30:1 and have never had motor or fuel line issues. Non synthetic doesn't burn up as well and clogs your plug.
I have been using true fuel for 3 years in my buggy as well as my airplanes.which is synthetic oil..no problems.if you use ethanol gas from the pump that's where down the road you will have issues
Been using synthetic in my buggy and airplane for years...never had a problem....if you say ruins carb. You must be doing something wrong!! Also use truefuel..no ethanol..the ethanol is what causes problems!!
You will never ever ever truely break in a two stroke buggy motor with full synthetic oil. It is imperative to use 100% mineral oil, using 100% mineral oil is the absolute only way your piston ring can truely mate correctly with the bore.
Hello steve G. I can't say that there is a industry standard but personally I run 40ml oil to 1lt fuel from new to old. But I run Castor based oil for the first tank then Ester based oil thereafter.
I appreciate your trying to help people mate but you are not. Fully synthetic oil is a no go for break in I encourage you to actually look into what you are trying to achieve when breaking in a engine, 100% mineral oil only up to 5 tanks, I generally burn 3 then switch over to fully synthetic.
Thanks mate. Will check it out. As for the 5 tanks, most of my customers only get up to 5 tanks on a car before they break or sell it. Just for fun we also did performance test on a 32cc and drove the hell out of it from brand new. There was no visible performance difference and that motor ran in our company car for a lot more than 10 tanks before we sold it.