Setting up the FujiFilm X100F for Street Photography with Nick Turpin 

I've both my friend, the x100F and the a6000. I reccomend you to keep the sony, I take them togheter on my street session: Sony with the 50mm and fuji. It's very versatile in this way.

Thanks Kurt, I have lots to come :-)

Yes there is a reason why it is so popular with street shooters. Really looking forward to seeing the X100V

pass this command to the front evf / ovf button

hdrsmit I think in the video, if you set aperture and shutter, the exp comp would adjust the ISO

To be in full manual, iso also has to be fixed. In this situation he has left it on auto iso so it can in his words "float up and down". Exposure tweaking is controlled by the compensation dial.

Yes you are right aperture on A is shutter priority not aperture priority. A lot to remember.

Yes I got the two confused, thanks.

@@streetphotographywithnickt1648 It was on my mind since I just looked it up last night. Many of the menu labels are clear as mud.

hollernathan I definitely have exp comp in manual with auto ISO. Just checked again to make sure I was right.

Street Photography with Nick Turpin - yes you’re right. In order for exposure comp to work in Manuel mode iso has to be in one of the 3 preset positions. Thank you

gpagnoni hi - on your point 4, what exactly does release and focus priority mean? I think I have it but maybe the wrong way around...

Checkmybadself Release priority means that the shutter actuates immediately when you press the shutter button. Release priority, on the other hand, means that the shutter will actuate only when the camera manages to acquire focus: in this case there may be a substantial lag between your button press and the actual closing down of the shutter.

@gpagnoni, MF+back-button focus is a very handy setting when you use it as a kind of assisted zone focus.

I think if any aspect of the exposure triangle is auto, shutter/aperture/iso then the exposure compensation is the only way to lighten or darken the images. That’s how it works on mine.

In full auto or auto aperture + shutter you can see it doing what it feels is best to achieve your exposure compensation. If you add auto iso into the mix or use only auto iso it’s not great because you can’t see what iso it’s choosing (only the maximum setting... annoying) so you might find yourself using an unnecessarily hi iso for example. Personally I set my auto iso to ‘command’ in the settings (then set the physical iso dial to auto) which basically turns it off and allocates iso to the front dial - essentially an easier to use iso dial than the actual iso dial (which, as much as I loved the nostalgia of, really only works on a film camera) So i control all three manually basically. Not sure what the point of exposure compensation would be on a camera like this that is geared to professional/manual use AND it’s mirrorless... what’s the point if you’re seeing a preview anyway, I wish it didn’t have it and that dial was used for the ISO instead - you really don’t need it if you understand iso, aperture and shutter, as there’s no 4th magical way of accepting light into the camera. I’m sure if the poster of this video knew you could change the front dial to control iso and tried it he would and do away with exposure compensation use... as you won’t find an auto exposure dial on a Leica, surely!?Just weird it’s on the Fuji’s when you have all that control... on some Sonys that have less [not enough] dials like the a6500 maybe but those are more ‘auto’ cameras. It might be useful for flash photography. I should do my own settings video, I think! Btw, I wouldn’t set shutter at 1000/th for street unless you live on same street as Usain Bolt haha guess it doesn’t matter but seems a bit overkill and if you use auto ISO you may end up with high iso shots for no reason. Honestly just go full manual with the iso auto set to command(front dial) and you won’t look back. You will still knock that exposure dial by accident but it won’t matter as it won’t do anything. This article explains my beef with that dial well. fstoppers.com//just-how-useless-exposure-compensation-277892 good luck, I presume 100s works in the same way? Who knows. I have the F and love it. Would upgrade to the V if it was weather sealed but apart from that I’m happy with the F.

Christian I agree with what you say for all kinds of photography except street photography where speed is important and you are seeing, recognising and taking a picture in a second. No time for deciding what ISO to use. And who gives a shit about the ISO a picture was taken at if it catches the humour or emotion of a scene beautifully? Also take a picture of a cyclist at 500th and zoom in on your screen, even at 1000th there will be movement. I only want to see blur in my pictures if its a deliberate decision not an accident.

I have the X-T3 as well but the X100F is the best for street, smaller, lighter, simpler, discrete and I never need more that the built in 23mm lens for street work. All great cameras though.

I don’t actually agree with that, they are of course great cameras but they are just unnecessary these days to make great pictures. You buy a Leica for other reasons. If you hold a Leica M or Q in one hand and an X100F in the other you’ll realise what heavy brick they are. Also most cameras are superseded every 2/3yrs so why spend £6k on a body.

Fuji X100F is the camera made in Japan and Leica is made in Portugal .... became the camera of the pseudo rich new

A true photographer wouldn't make such a stupid comment