Many details From GC like the lacing being superb, a straight line going up, while the C&J’s looks faulty have concluded my decision. Thank you for the content, great video 👍🏽
Good for you. The reason many brands incline the lacing is so it appears straight with a v gap. I actually prefer that but it’s all a matter of choice.
Great video! One extra thing to mention would be last/fit on your foot. Is one looser at the ball or heel? Does one accommodate a higher instep a bit better? Does one provide more arch support than the other? All the design and construction qualities don’t matter if the shoe doesn’t fit a person’s foot.
They are both superb shoes... I'm a sucker for a quarter brogue though, and find these half/three quarter brogues/Adelaides a touch too much, especially heel caps... just can't get into those. The GC, probably made by C&J too has wonderful work on the sole and spade edge shape. I notice both have that graduated lace hole width, but both very different spacing. Leather on both looks delicious... especially good quality grained stuff.
I believe these GC are made by Sargent vs CJ. The CJ made ones have the same sole as the CJ Handgrade line, I don’t believe they build up waists at CJ. Folks much closer to this than me say that the 21 nails in two rows at the toe, that’s Sargent. At least that’s what I hear.
I agree the peak heel caps can be a bit much and if you’re used to non brogues a quarter can be just enough. Since I’m so casual in my dress these days I don’t really worry about it. But it’s all about what makes you comfortable.
@@wishoeguy why I wanted meermin to follow through with the pic on their website showing nails. They said the older models of the Norvegese have the nails under the sole which was what I was sent. I was like well send me the new model then. That combined with a bad piece of leather on the heel block means im gonna need to exchange them.
I don’t have a hand grade so I compared with bench grade, which is still a step ahead of most shoemakers out there. I will update when my first hand grades arrive.
How about a cost comparison? I've found the Cleaverlies to be generally more expensive and not really worth it . Additionally,. the Cleaverly shoes could very well have been made by Crocket & Jones.
These Cleverley shoes appear to be made by Alfred Sargent. CJ made Cleverley have CJ handgrade soles. They’re similar in price if get deals online. List price is usually about $200 USD more for Cleverley, which I think is worth it when it’s not made by CJ. Details and finishing is better.
That is the word going around but I can’t confirm that with anything but rumor. I will be picking up a pair of CJ Handgrade to compare. That would be closest the soles look nearly identical to my GG soles. Those are no longer made at CJ premises since they opened their own factory a few years back. Though that’s a rumor too. Who exactly makes which RTW shoes is kept quiet. Insiders know but they don’t always know when relationships change or important details like who the cobblers are working on which shoes. Eg my understanding was that GG used their own people at whatever factory they used to make sure quality was consistent from the time they started to moving to their own premises. No idea how that relates to the GC rtw line but it wouldn’t surprise me, given their quality if there isn’t something similar going on. CJ does a lot of private label shoes in addition to their own two significant lines. Grensen and Barker do too, but my impression, and I don’t own Grenson and love my Barker’s, is that CJ quality is next Level. Again just an impression, not even a well informed opinion.
AS definitely made some fine shoes, their Handgrade line was only available at trunk shows was second to no brand. Can’t wait to see what transpires. Rumors are that Bill Sargent bought the factory and equipment during the liquidation and a big online retailer, which means Herring to me, bought the name. There is another rumor that GC bought the factory too. They said they bought A factory. I tend to think it was the Foster and Son factory, quite newer, now that they’ve downsized to bespoke only. This is just MY speculation. AS was pushing out a lot of shoes a week, but wasn’t focused on just the high end GC and exclusives. In interviews with Bill Sargent he said he wanted to refocus on the high end shoes. Fingers crossed. Check out shoe gazing. Some good info to Read the tea leaves yourself.
beautiful. The Chinese are coming though, brands like Clean Gentlemen or Triple Happiness, mot much those tiny little Chinese hands can't do with proper guidance, they just haven't fully mastered leather tanning yet but EVs are anything to go by.....
