Shop Buildout: Part 3 - Wiring the Shop Outlets

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After the getting electrical service installed in the garage via a trench to give it it's own subpanel, it was time to wire all the outlets I could possibly ever need for my dream workshop: general purpose outlets, lights, and dedicated outlets for things like my future laser cutter and a ceiling drop for my table saw.
In this third video in my shop buildout series, we'll go over some of my trials and tribulations - and modified timeline - of getting the garage wired myself. It took about a year past what I originally anticipated, but now that the wiring is done and I've passed my electrical inspection, the rest of the garage workshop conversion will speed right along.
With this crucial step complete, look forward to my next video in the series that goes over insulation!
Some of the tools and materials used while wiring the shop (may contain affiliate links):
Worktunes Wireless Headphones: amzn.to/3bD8uHC
Laser Line Level: amzn.to/30wriUM
Right-Angle Drill Attachment: amzn.to/2QZRr9k
Spade Bit Set: amzn.to/3h9mMRs
14/2 Romex: amzn.to/2DBBfIf
12/2 Romex: amzn.to/2R39BqL
1-Gang Outlet Box: amzn.to/35gkj5I
2-Gang Outlet Box: amzn.to/334PDS9
Propane-powered Heater: amzn.to/3jVdJpk
If you're an Amazon user and want to support my channel, using the link below will give me a small kickback from Amazon at no extra cost to you. Thanks in advanced!
amzn.to/2qnCG6M
Reading more your style? Check out the write-up on my website:
www.farbulouscreations.com/vi...
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
1:09 - Wiring Plan
4:01 - Best of Winter Intentions
5:10 - Spring Motivation
6:56 - Wiring Overview
8:36 - Next Steps
9:20 - Outro
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Опубликовано:

3 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 11

@David-pq6wt 2 года назад

Nice layout and planning it helps soo much. I built a small work shop in my basement and put in 4 duplex outlets. 2 on one 20 amp breaker and 2 on another. My shop is much smaller than yours but it’s nice not having extension cords every where

@FarbulousCreations 2 года назад

Hey David! Absolutely! And I'm finding even with the best of planning and intentions, there will always be something you didn't think of. 😅 For instance, I wish I had ran 12/3 to my table saw circuit instead of 12/2 so I could have a 120V circuit there too for my router table extension. Oh well!

@dwoodog 3 года назад

Nice work, very similar to what I'm doing. I questioned my sanity when I took down about 20 sheets of OSB each with about 40 nails in each piece. needless to say I took the first two on nice, the...... well gonna need a big dumpster bin. But my shop is wired for 240 volt, and ample (aka: tons) of plug outlets. I figure I only have once chance o do this. Once I put OSB back up, it aint coming down. I also upped the ceiling lighting from 3 LED four foot fixtures to 8. Getting full 4x8 OSB sheets off the ceiling that have like 40 nails in each was a exercise in using a really really big pry bar.

@FarbulousCreations 3 года назад

Oh man, that sounds terrible! Why would the original installer use nails instead of screws? I suppose it was the work of a nail gun which made quick work of it, but still - don't envy un-doing that work in the slightest!

@shawnking1608 3 года назад

Hey, if you can do wiring you can install a mr cool system. No need to pay extra.

@FarbulousCreations 3 года назад

Hey Shawn! Thanks for the comment! I actually looked into the Mr. Cool systems since I saw so many other RU-vidrs installing them in their shops! Unfortunately it wouldn't really work for me being up in Minnesota. The Mr. Cool units can only do heat in the winter in temperatures above 20 degrees or so Fahrenheit (or something in that realm). Minnesota definitely get's way colder than that, usually down in the single digits and teens, but not uncommon to go below zero for multiple days on end. Fortunately, the Mitsubishi mini split units can do heat in temps down to -15 degrees Fahrenheit, so that's what I went with, and unfortunately, I did have to hire an HVAC company to do the installation though.

@bizm 3 года назад

Will you be insulating the ceiling and garage door in the next video? I hope so, or your shop will cost a fortune to heat with all that heat loss! I recommend looking in to a heated jacket if you don't plan to keep the heat in the shop on 24/7 during winter. Pretty much every manufacturer has them now, to go with your existing tools' cordless battery system. It's much cheaper than heating the entire shop for quick projects and less cumbersome than a good parka. (Plus, there's nothing like a toasty-warm jacket when you're shoveling snow!)

@FarbulousCreations 3 года назад

Yup, absolutely! In the pile of supplies that I shouldn’t have ordered until needed you’ll find a bunch of R49 insulation for the ceiling. Then for the garage door I’m using a garage door insulating kit that provides R8 (unfortunately low). That’ll be in the next video! I am eager to see what increase in our winter electric bill we’ll see compared to last winter.

@patfromamboy 2 года назад

I thought you were kidding at first, I’m going to check on getting one. Thanks

@314jph 3 года назад

Nice video. Don't you require two dedicated 30 amp dual pole breaker for a 3 hp 208v motor (future table saw)?

@FarbulousCreations 3 года назад

Thanks, glad you liked the video! Good question! For the 3HP Sawstop, based on what their user manual online says, it draws 13 amps at 208-240V. So I ran 12-2 Romex wiring to a single, dual pole, 20 amp breaker in my panel. The standard practice for sizing breakers is to use no more than 80% of a breaker's rating - so 80% * 20 amps = 16 amps max estimated load for a 20 amp breaker. That gives us plenty of clearance for the 13 amp draw from the saw. Using a 30 amp breaker isn't necessary, and if we did use a 30 amp breaker, that would require the wiring to be 10-2, which is harder to work with (since it's thicker gauge) and more expensive. But since I used 12-2 instead of 12-3 (because it's cheaper) and both black and white wires are going to be hot, I "re-identified" the white wire with black electrical tape wrapped all around it (at both the box and at the panel) to indicate that it's also hot. This is acceptable practice according to the NEC handbook. Hope that helps!