Lol me too! Actually in the process of polishing up some G43 parts at the moment using this white diamond by Schultz laboratory’s. Stuff works excellent, got damn near a mirror polish on this locking block and striker. And the rest of the parts like the trigger bar & rear rails are literally mirror finish after only a couple minutes.
@@kcscustom9759 Be careful not to polish so much the chrome comes off. I’ve had customers do that a few times. It thins the chrome so much it starts delaminating.
Well, that's a dumb assumption. You REMOVE the parts, carefully polish the contact surfaces, the wipe away the Flitz. Anyone who says that polishing the trigger bar contact surfaces on a Glock with Flitz doesn't work has never tried it. It definitely smoothes out the pull without introducing the problems that oil causes.
Got certified as an armorer on Smith Wesson revolvers in the eighties, one week, and Glocks in the nineties, one day. Neither taught or authorized polishing interior parts. But every gun smith I knew polished parts, including me. As far as gun grease, hey, try it first, see if you like it. On a defense tool, I don’t recommend any modifications. Any “trigger job” would be used against you.
I have lowered several Glock triggers by an average of 1.5lbs by REMOVING the transfer bar, firing pin, firing pin block and cruciform and polishing them with a Drexel tool using red and white compounds readily available at any hardware store….and yes, the reductions are SUSTAINED….not just do to being extra clean. Rather due to micro debuting and mirror polishing of contact the metal-on-metal surfaces thereby dramatically reducing drag and the coefficient of friction between them. This has been verified numerous times by a digital trigger pull scale and NOT merely my imagination or PERCEIVED trigger pull weight. Back in the day, one took their guns to a gunsmith to have them perform a “trigger job” on the firearm….what exactly do you think they actually were doing, if not EXACTLY THIS? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
While i agree with you about results when done right and that polishing is part of a traditional trigger job i think what they're getting at is flitz or any polishing alone for that matter isn't a trigger job. A traditional trigger job consists of altering the angle of engagement or overall surface engagement on the sear and trigger. Most factory triggers, especially more modern ones, have a positive engagement angle for liability purposes. A traditional trigger job invokes carefully stoning the surfaces to bring the angles more a neutral point to get rid of the creep. From there some more material can be removed to lessen the amount of travel needed for the break if needed. In FCG's like an ar's if you are really skilled then you can also work to shorten the reset and then go through the process of heat treating to ensure the assembly is safe in the long run.
@@jkalash762 no that's not what they're saying. They are saying that using metal polish on interfacing components will not help your trigger pull at all. They're saying your trigger pull will be exactly the same after polishing them with metal polish, as it would if you simply put lubrication on the gun. What they're saying is pretty much false but that's what they're saying.
That depends on your idea of better. A clean, polished surface doesn’t attract and hold grit like grease does. So your polished surfaces will still be clean long after a greased up surface has collected more scum than a discount drug dealer.
Absolutely, first thing I do! It does help if you do a GOOD JOB! Thats a FACT! I also use a Dremel & emery cloth. And yes it works better than grease; like wet behind the ears, know it all, hair grease says!🤦🙄
@@darrelljohnson7832 clean like polished smooth, like less friction, like easier to pull! Grease 🤦🤦 Could these crooks just wanna sell you a highly marked up drop in trigger?? Yes, yes that sounds more truthful.
Flitz is a polishing compound. If polishing helps two surfaces slide past each other then it may help. It is safer for the hobby gunsmith than going in with the intent to change angles of the sear to improve triggers. I fall in the group that says sometimes helpful.
This seems like another one of those smyths where you guys doing a simple experiment could do more good than simply declaring it busted. I feel like Brownells could afford to buy you guys four police surplus handguns. Then, if you did a Flitz job on one, a grease job on the second, a proper trigger job on the third, and left the last one as is, you could have a blind test to see if shooters would reliably rank the Flitz job above the grease job. Even better, you could have them estimate how much better the proper trigger job was compared to the Flitz job. Finally, use the guns as demonstrations in other smyths, or fix them up and sell them as "tuned by Brownells' master gunsmiths".
@@DrThunder88 lol...I asked the "SmythBusters" why they didn't SHOW us why we shouldn't use Flitz rather than just TELL us to not use Flitz, and that quote is part of Caleb's reply to me.
I polish all the contact parts in my firearms. I do it mostly because I love cleaning guns, and it helps me gain a better understanding on firearms operations. I guess it's more of a personal thing for me. However, even though it doesn't "lighten" the trigger or significantly change the trigger geometry: it does make the operation feel slightly smoother. There is not enough difference to really "make a difference", but it is just something I enjoy doing.
I do the same! It absolutely does help. The better job you do the better the results.👍 Dremel, polishing wheel, polishing compound, emery cloth, FACT!🤔
I've taken every Glock I own down to pieces & done this, it does smooth them out. I also changed the springs in my 365 & polished what looked appropriate & I love the results. Since I did both at the same time I don't know how much credit to give to the polishing.
I used it on my Glock and it made a huge difference. The question is, what are people expecting it to do? I just wanted the gritty feel to go away and it sure did. Oiling does not get the grittiness out of a bad trigger like the ones that come with a stock Glock.
What the heck type of Flitz trigger job are you two talking about?! I’ve never heard of anyone just putting polishing compound in the gun and cycling it. EVERYONE disassembles the gun and polishes the mating/bearing surfaces directly to smooth out the pre-travel, rolling break and the reset. Most of the guns I’ve done this on have started out with a trigger pull that felt like dragging a dead hooker across the train tracks and ended up being very smooth. Your credibility took a big hit with this episode.
Biggest problem I see is the random nature of such actions. Round parts are supposed to be round and flat parts are supposed to be flat. The angles matter as well. Accelerated wear doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
I wish that they had said this explicitly. Honestly, I think most gun owners should stay the hell away from hammer/sear surfaces. There are precise angles at those points in the action, and rounding off the corners with polish could be unsafe.
I have a 1917 Colt 1911 that someone at some point tried to do a half assed trigger job on, it worked for long while until one day I was shooting it and it ran through an entire mag. It then wouldn’t stay cocked. Please if you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t fuck with devices holding back thousands of PSI of rapidly combusting material. That applies to engines too!
Agreed. still amazed at all the crap people put on their new cars and the SES light comes on. "but, but I want more horsepower and better MPG!" They never understand that those two things do not go together.
I did a trigger polish on my brothers Glock with a dremmel and some proper abrasives and finishing polish and it turned out great, it’s super smooth now.
@Mac Diddy I did the same on my Glock. Worked great. In addition, I haven't put any oil or "grease" on any of my handguns in nearly 20 years, and they all still run perfectly. The flitz polishing DOES take the gritty feel out of the trigger pull.
Same here and only used Malco's metal polish in the plunger and helped smooth out the trigger pull. You can by a polished aftermarket plugger as well. On a Glock it is called the .25 Glock trigger job.
Polishing rouge and a Dremel hard felt conical polishing bit actually works. Like really well. You can get that thousand break in effect right outta the box.
Maybe Im crazy, but I've found flitz to have 2 benefits, 1 it removes a bit of the grittyness out of a glock trigger pull (not a miracle job but it helps) and 2 since its polished its a lot easier to clean since all the carbon,grime and gunk can't stick to it easily since it's super polished
Mothers mag polish works well to mirror polish parts. It does remove metal. You’ll know if it works properly if your polishing cloth turns black. You wipe off any residue when done.
Not necessarily. Your hand won't slide down a dry mirror more easily than asphalt. The nature of the two interacting materials, the level of polish if they are hard materials, the presence of any chemical (including air) between them all have an effect and you can get surprising results. Machine shop gauge blocks are high polish but high friction BECAUSE they are so smooth and precisely machined. In a firearm application high friction and short distance make for the kinds of short, crisp trigger that is considered desirable. In other parts of the gun minimizing friction is desirable, though.
I disagree. Polishing steel mating surfaces certainly does make for smoother operation. I wouldn't call it a trigger job, but to say it does absolutely nothing just isn't true.
@@aarontracy6015 Well I'm not a metallurgist... But if you don't think polishing compounds work if used correctly, and can significantly reduce friction at contact points... Then you have no idea what you're talking about... People have been lapping metal for 1000s of years. And they've always used a medium... Polishing contact points, be it with Flitz or another tube of compound will absolutely give you a better, smoother, lighter trigger. Period.
@@aarontracy6015 Flitz is a polishing compound... polishing silverware? Yep... Just about like polishing a trigger hammer, and sear. What else should it do? Stones remove metal, polishing compounds... Well... Polish... Exactly as it's described. Like I said, you dont know what you're talking about... Mr. metallurgist. 🤣
Yeah, this video is pretty poorly conveyed. I've watched it twice now and it's still not clear if they're talking about polishing parts, using Flitz as some kind of lubricant or both. If they're claiming you can't polish metal parts with metal polish.... then I don't even know what the point they're trying to make is anymore.
I was going to say the same thing Steve said. Careful polishing of contact surfaces only can net a better trigger feel. It won't always make the pull weight less but it can make the pull weight feel lighter. I also agree that if you want a trigger job done than spend the money on a real trigger job by either paying a gunsmith or investing in the tools to do it yourself.
Polish alone is not a trigger job, it's a trigger improvement. A true trigger job will include some if the following: new springs, sear work, bur removal and lube.
I agree yet disagree, no using Flitz or any other compound will not give you an trigger job or a lighter trigger pull but polishing certain parts will eliminate the gritty creepy trigger, and works great for cleaning and polishing the feed ramps. so I say yes it can give you a better feeling trigger
I don't disagree very often but my glock trigger used some polishing compound to polish the trigger bar and other wear areas and it's smooth as butter now so it works in some trigger jobs not great in others. Went from a 6lb pull to 5.25 lb pull making everything smooth not really a trigger job but it did enhance the trigger pull weight
False!!!!!! Polishing contact points with Flitz and a Dremel absolutely make for a better trigger pull. It's not the same as changing springs and using aftermarket parts I agree but for a 100% stock firearm it removes the machining marks which reduces friction. Less friction= better feel of the trigger. Your not going to get a huge reduction in pull weight but it does make it much smoother. Keep in mind guys that not everyone owns a $1500+ firearm. Would I bother doing this to a $2000 race gun? No... It's already been done at the factory. Would I do this to a Taurus G3 or a M&P Shield? Absolutely.... I have done exactly that to a number of $400-$600 pistols with immediate positive results. It's not a busted myth or a myth at all..it's a proven fact. I'm surprised you guys put out this video.
Use a good quality lube on all moving parts of a gun. Now shoot at least 500 rounds without cleaning. The gunpowder mixes with the oil and over several hundred rounds smooths out imperfections and tooling marks. Now you not only have a action enhancement/trigger job but your now very proficient with it.
I wish you guys would have SHOWN us how this doesn't work rather than just TOLD us. Another gripe...sorry.... I learned more from the video description than I did from the video.
@@Cautionary_Tale_Harris That's the opposite of the lesson. I always say don't believe all the kitchen table gunsmith "tips" just because they claim to be cheap and easy. If you question it, do the research, be your own man.
How I make an AR-15 factory trigger awesome. 1- polish the hammer and trigger mating surfaces 2- JP enterprises 3.5lb springs 3- overtravel stop grip screw. For about $30 you get an awesome trigger.
I dont know about flitz, but I have most definitely gained desirable results from polishing the interfacing parts having to do with the “trigger” on my glocks.
Same here, I've done the same on ARs that have gritty triggers, and no the grease didn't give the same desired effect lol in a couple cases I used flitz after changing the geometry of the trigger contact surfaces that net excellent results, particularly in Glock triggers.
I don’t know guys. I’ve polished the contact surfaces on all my Glocks and I’ve found it makes it smoother and lowers the trigger pull about a half pound. I’ve got to disagree on this one.
Like it or not, it works on the rough Glock parts. "Filling it up" - that's just stupid. Polishing CONTACT POINTS will make the Glock smoother. Is that a "Trigger Job"? Maybe not, but it helps.
This is all wrong. Just like sanding you should go from coarse to fine. So, let a cat lick it for about 20 days and then have the dog lick it for the remaining days. 😂
Not all parts are MIM & if you don't understand how a trigger works .. don't mess up your trigger . If not for the poor state of shipped NEW Guns , you would have less sales for all the stuff to fix them . BTW Glocks are not on MY list of bad guns shipped New In The Box .
Polishing vs. Buffing properly is the question. Smooth to smooth contact, the difference can be felt. This doesn't mean lesser effort required to release the striker by a great deal. Perception adds up, shooter feels like its better, it is better! I don't agree with all of this video, but that just me.
Sorry but polishing does help! Case in point sd9 2.0 trigger bar was getting hung up causing a false reset, polished the area that was catching and no more false reset and it removed the gritty feel! There was a burr on the stamped part that was causing the issue! Also have a Glock we’re a part was scraping or gouging the trigger bar smooth the rough part and it no longer scraping away or gouging the trigger bar!
Flitz is a metal POLISH...meaning you have to start out with a surface that is already well honed. I just finished breaking apart and polishing a CZ P-01. It involves sandpaper and elbow grease and some good ole common sense to not take off too much metal...but just to get it nice and smooth. Finishing with 2000 grit sandpaper then using a Dremel and some polishing compound. You'll have a mirror finish on that part and it will be smooth like a babies bottom. You won't get there with just metal polish. As mentioned in the video, you'll just end up with really clean parts.
I know one thing Flitz does wonderfully! It renews WML lenses like magic! All that post range day carbon buildup on the light just vanishes with just a little dab of Flitz and a few wipes. The lens will not just be clean, it will crystal clear. Yeah we know y’all like to use pencil erasers to clean those lenses, but if you have a tube of Flitz and a few Q-tips lying around, try it and thank me later. 😊
The science is in the before & after, and there is plenty of videos showing good results of lowering trigger pull when triggers are properly polished. I would rather buy an after market trigger but thats not always possible, I have a B&T TP9 that no after market triggers are available and by polishing the hammer, sear, guide rails I dropped the trigger pull by half.
Who in the ACTUAL fuck is just throwing polishing compounds in the assembled firearm? Take the gun apart, polish the components, that will make a significant difference in the firearms performance.
I dit it on my AR's: put a dab of chrome polish on the sear, cycle 20 times, rinse and repeat. Then wash it good in hot water, and lube it. It does improve the mill spec trigger to a noticeable level. On my glocks, I remove and polish the trigger bar contact points, clean and lube just to make it a bit slicker. But you gotta clean it well and don't get polish anywhere else. Not as good as a gunsmith job. Biggest thing is just keep it clean and lubed.
What might have been helpful would be to expand on the idea of ‘it works on the parts you want and on the parts you don’t want.’ Like which parts are which, and what exactly does it do that you don’t want it to do. Just a thought.
I can think of two off the top of my head. All the retaining pins and the spring attach points, you don't want to prematurely wear down those surfaces. That is only when you fill the whole thing and cycle the trigger continuously. If you take the trigger apart and only apply it to the correct parts and clean it off, it would work fine.
I was thinking of the sear on a Smith and Wesson revolver . Anyone that has done a proper trigger job on a revolver will understand what these folks are saying. Polishing is done on SELECT parts and surfaces. Springs weights are selected to suit whatever primers are fitted into the ammunition to be fired from the gun.
Ordered the BROWNELLS/YAVAPAI SEAR TOOL, and BROWNELLS HAMMER/SEAR FILE & STONE KIT just this morning. I'll have them in plain view at the shop and explain the complexities of the 1911 ignition system and special tools and skills needed for a crisp and safe trigger pull. Then again maybe I'll just drop in WC or EGW parts like always.
Just used flitz/mothers on a Glocks trigger bar, connector, and safety plunger which pretty much gets those really clean and buttery smooth. It brought down about 1/2 poound off the pull and doesn't feel gritty anymore. Is it a true trigger job or can replace one? Nope, not even close. It's basically just doing what the factory would do if they were told to take the time.
Just say if you don't know what your doing, leave it alone. Flitz is no different than other polishing compounds of its type and is useful in the right application. You sound like you are singling out a specific product, which is a great product by the way. If were talking about a Glock trigger, they definitely need some help to be tolerable. BTW, lapping compound was never intended to be used that way so another fail by uneducated people.
Gotta kind of tell us what you're talking about first. What is a Trigger Job and where are people putting the Flitz to try it? I'm assuming to get a lighter trigger pull? I dont know, but Flitz is amazing. I tried it on my G2C and went from having to wipe down the external parts once or twice a week to it still feeling perfectly clean and polished 6 weeks later. Caution though, it definitely made the finish look different, so not sure i would do it to a high dollar gun without testing it first. And I dont personally think I'd ever recommend any kind of polish in any part that is directly in the combustion area.
@@pewpewTN yep, it says completely safe for all metals including "Factory Hot Gun Bluing, Painted Surfaces,". What else would you metal polish on a handgun? I wont polish anything on the inside of a gun where it gets hot and its not a plastic polish.
@@spankymagee Polishing the outside of your slide just means your gun is going to turn into a rusty block. Handgun finishes aren't meant to be polished. All you did is simulate several years of wear all over the entire surface of your gun.
I bought a new SW model 36. Trigger sucked. I dry fired it all weekend. Easily a thousand pulls. Much better. Didn't open anything up or put anything in.
Notice they are not taking a Glock, lubing it and doing trigger pull tests. And then doing a flitz job on it, lubing it again and then doing trigger pull tests. When you bust a myth, that would kind of be the way to do it I've seen people do mythbusting exactly as I described. That kind of gives you credibility rather than just proclaiming it busted. I've actually seen people on RU-vid do What I described and it took about 1 lb off the trigger pull. Packing a gun with valve grinding compound on the other hand I've never heard of that. Sounds crazy. I used some Blue magic metal polish on my glock, the good old 50 cent Glock trigger job. I cleaned the polish off and lubed it and it did get about a pound lighter. I've never had a desire for it to be a hair trigger anyway, I just wanted it to feel a little better. This is not the kind of myth you bust by proclamation guys I'm sure you have the resources to do better.
Not sure he understands how polishing something works to reduce friction. I personally don't use it, just dry fire it and use it and it will polish itself. Glock ships with a polish compound from the factory applied to the rails I do believe.
I don't know about flitz but valve lapping compound can definitely cut hardened steel. I'm not in any way suggesting that the technique discussed is a good idea though.
Yes you’re right, obviously loading up the inside of a pistol with polishing compound is not a good idea but, remove the parts from the gun and clean/polish them to a chrome like finish in addition to thoroughly cleaning the rest of the gun does wonders. I don’t use grease and very little light oil in my striker fired 9mm but I did hand polish areas on the trigger and the striker where they contact each other. I also routinely keep the striker blocker and the channel it sits in clean and shiny. All of this does make a noticeable difference and has caused no issue done correctly and is free. My ten year old Ruger SR9C needs no additional parts and the trigger pull is like glass. Also I don’t see you doing any demos to back up your myth busting claim?
It never ceases to amaze me what people will do to firearms in the name of improvement. More often its firearm destruction and not improvement. gun forums can be a great information boon, they also can be a great misinformation platform. Take what you read there with 2 grains of salt.
When I got my first FA 83 I would clean the cylinder face with Flitz....until FA said that it DOES remove steel and would ruin my accuracy... I wound up sending it back to FA and they refaced my cylinder and luckily there was a tight enough gap that they didnt have to set my barrel back
This is off topic, but it’s positive. I like your BRCC coffee mug, I love their coffee and I’m glad to see the mug in your vids. And I wanted to say that I’m grateful for your service. Please keep the videos coming and laugh at the haters. I appreciate what y’all do.
So i polished my glock trigger parts that rub together like connector and plunger, etc, with Mothers and a Dremel to get mirror finish. Based from glock youtuber experts. That didn’t do anything?
I put two youtubers together , squeezed some Flitz in the gap, rubbed their noses together, stuck in the plunger, and they disconnected with shiny noses. They were both triggered.
I suppose if you use the Flitz with a polishing wheel on an already polished surface you can make it a bit better as a final touch up but just straight using Flitz from the start isn't going to get you anywhere.
Funny, i just held a Glock in my hands where the previous owner had tried with copper compound to try grind it down. I pulled it apart, cleaned out the grit and gun is ok, there are places where it does not matter how polished it is.. It won't do jack and shit;) Good video!
@@redrider7730 Actually I have, and it did not have that copper grease, was a brand new glock 17, gen 4 I believe. And no, no such grease or others. So maybe resellers have been doing this?
@@redrider7730 and is you search the net, you you will find newer posts saying it did not ship with it. So perhaps they did, but it is not consistent. And not everyone have received it.
@@redrider7730 i hear you, the 17 that was brand new, did not have it. So as I stated, it does not seem to be consistent. Disagree all you want! And the grease as the manual state, is not too help wear it in, or help improve anything, it is just there to lubricate, if you replace it with CLP oil or whatever, it will still work just fine(just checked the manual) second I believe(this is an old post) the copper paste in question was not on the 4 slide arms, but between the slide center and upper part of barrel. In short used to try wear down the slide midsection top, and barrel top. Grease on the arms/slide tracks are not what I am talking about
@@redrider7730 OK, read the manual, it does not say that, you keep the grease there to improve the trigger, I don't understand where you keep getting this stuff from. All it states, is that it is greases the 4 metal rail slide items. And please, lets put it to the test, where in the manual for the glock does it state it? where does it state that using polishing compound is doing what you are saying, Please, which page number? Lets just cut to the facts, where is it saying the stuff you are stating?
@@redrider7730 again, which page on the manual are you getting this from, come now, facts, not stuff from your imagination. You know, where Glock is saying all this stuff you are ranting about. Is any kind of proof too much to ask for?
So flits will work just fine though absolutely NOT in the way you said people are using it… People really do that? I would think what is meant by a glitz trigger job is using glitz to polish the parts when the firearm is disassembled after properly fitting ignition parts together?
After reading the comment section, I may never trust buying a used firearm again. Holy mackerel! I guess anybody can be a gunsmith. It's easy...........
“It works on the parts you want and the ones you don’t “ now that’s a mysterious quote. I agree that grease will make it feel smoother but what’s wrong with clean and greased? I’ve seen plenty of polished Glock trigger bars but haven’t seen any issues.
like he said later, that its really hard to get it out ---it will just keep grinding away and wear out stuff faster. he was talking about people packing it into the entire gun, as if you were packing wheel bearings