AD-1 Amp Dyno Taramps BASS 15k by Jones Subwoofer Solutions JSS NEWEST RUN ON THE CMAX!!! 

@Kasey Ware +1

No doubt!

Did you notice any of the power wires twitching from the current draw?? Most people dont realize how much current that truly is.

@@scottie6-573 Yessir, exactly what I was talking about. You can hear it on the video.

Funny you said that because I have a bass 8k taramps and I have a 2021kia soul s with a stock alternator that only puts out 14 .0 volts in the morning it's a smart charging system the ecm tells the alternator to charge only when the battery gets low I have about 400ah of agm batteries in the back for reserve I live in Houston and the temperature is over a hundred degrees and this amplifier doesn't even get hot and it doesn't pull a lot of voltage like Korean amplifiers

Good point, if I think back to all the playing around i did with my amp and sub's back when I was a kid, my buddies with me learning by mistake as we went along... Yeah one of us would have char broiled himself in the back of my jeep. Hell even the md8000.1 I see in a lot of young peoples setups, cuz the price per watt is just insane, can probably be fatal. I paid the same amount for 240 watts of PPI power. The jump in power is a whole new world.

Seriously man I have 2 of the bass 15ks on a cmax and I was setting my gains and I had my multimeter in the speaker terminal and my pinky hit the other one and I literally froze from the shock it sent me.

Bass30k went over dyno limits on everything but 4 ohm runs so I didn't have much to show

@@Facekicker Ah I see. What are the dyno limits? Thanks.

@@Widowmaker2828 20,000 watts

Taramps sound excellent. I have other videos posted of my midranges powered by Taramps as well as my subs.

I ran caps with my AGM bank, but I may be adding Shengquan to this bank instead. I sold my cap banks, and the Shengquan will add a lot of support at a higher discharge rate than the cmax itself.

Ehhh. Caps aren't really necessary with NMC.

Can't really compare this to the MD12k until I run MD12k on the new bench.

The 12.000is not able to continuously handle .05 ohm load that's were this amp is better I have both amps

They are slightly different in out put but close though

@@yourmom-ii8ep you might have the 1ohm version of the md12k but I believe they discontinued that version. The only md12k available at the moment is 0.5 ohms

@@thinshadow551 regardless of what it says it still isn't designed to run all the time at 0.5 ohm I have both of them the 1ohm and the .5ohm Trust me when I say this it's not the same as the 15k the internals are designed to handle the .5ohm load on the 15k the md12 can just handle it not consistently

You fix em?

@@logancaston355 yeah I'm a amp repair tech

Thank you! Full bridge is the future. You're going to see more and more of it. As far as safety, I've seen more half bridge amps erupt in catastrophic failure than I have full bridge. Most full bridge amps have better protection circuitry than half bridge. I don't think your fears are warranted. Proper use will rarely ever result in a failure. Every build I own uses Taramps and I am definitely a fan of full bridge.

Hi Audio Dad, take a look at some of the vids that explain how full bridge amplifiers work. They also give examples of other amplifier manufacturer's that have been in the full bridge game for years now. There are so many positive things to say about full bridge, small foot print with big power and cost.

@@johnmedrano9782 ok. I’ve really been looking at the soundqubed u series. I’m looking to get a 5K but wasn’t sure about full bridge. I’ve read about it.

@@audiodad7400 I do not have any knowledge of soundqubed, but I have had four Taramps. I started off with the hd 3000 in my little Scion SB then put an hd 5000 in the SB, then the hd 3000 went in the pickup for awhile. Then a couple of Taramps 8ks open boxes cam up on ebay and offer up so now running the 8 ks. I did upgrade the alternator's on both vehicles, went overkill on the big 3 with extra grounds and ran extra cables and batteries for both builds. I was amazed with the HD 3000 and even more amazed with the HD 5000, but the MD 8000 and Bass 8000 is just out of this world for me. You should see if someone will demo one of these full bridge amps for you so you can see and hear it before you buy one. I do not think you could go wrong with one.

If you're afraid of an amp burning you need better electrical and go on the internet too much

Not recommended, but if you roll in and don't pause/play it should be OK.

I had both they are identical internally. Even confirmed with Wolfram.

@@MasterDJRenn yeah on the site in their description it says something down the lines of "updated specifications" or something either way I love my AW9k and I also have the AW5k unopened/unused saving for a rainy day if I might ever need it... Just snagged up the last two Wolfram PT-18'S that were in existence I'm aware of and got a steal of a deal on the monsters! 4in flat wound PE coils 4krms each for $650 delivered! They make my Deaf Bonce Apocalypse DB3515's seem like useless paper weights 🤣😝🤣 wish I'd just gotten theses wolframs in the first place tbh but either way I'm glad I have them now and the lair at half ohm on the matching AW9K is gonna be great with the AW-125.4 running things up front...

Cables vibrating from current

Ill try to get that one done soon

@@Facekicker I can't wait thanks

650 AH of AGM or equivalent support in lithium

to half bridge amps strapped is in fact a full bridge

at 15kw the amp is going to pull over 1500 amps

If the cables vary by length it can skew those readings, if my clamp will fit them all, I will try to do so.

@@Facekicker if the length is only a few feet the the difference is small well within error the advantage of doing it on a big 10k+ amp is you can get a reading without overloading the amp meter any amp under 10k ish then sure measure all of power feeds if it has 4 inputs and is like 20kw then clamp 1 input and just 4x the meter to get a total Amperage draw most all clamp meters are 5% tolerance at best a lot of cheap meters can be off by more than 10% a good fluke or aims is 3-5% this is just the nature of a split clamp hall effect meter. another option is to pick up a 2000 Amp shunt and put in line with the amp you can just use a voltmeter to read the shunt and do the math witch will be the most accurate the best option is a high side shunt and a oscilloscope with a differential probe as you can record the true peaks and voltage a good 4ch scope with 2 differential probes and 2 shunts can measure efficiency with better then + - 0.1% accuracy and graph current vs voltage response time telling you how effective you power bank is the input caps on the amplifier and more honestly a current phase response will tell you a lot about how the amplifier handles different voltages

@@ZoeyR86 Good point regarding the limit of meter - I'll cut some same length cables for the next big amp.

@@Facekicker if your cables are not like 10feet different from one another the degree of error is nothing lets say an amp has 2 inputs both are 1/0 one cable is 3 feet the other is 6ft the vdrop on the other cable is 2x but this drop will shift more current to the shortest cable but we are talking about only a few percent at most yes 1 cable has mosre resistance then the other But the degree of that is small because the resistance is so low. also cable and supply impedance has a much biiger role in dynamic test I can set up my bass 15k and do the testing to make a video if you like i have an smd AD-1 and all the proper equipment even oscilloscopes and shunts with proper probes. as i design and build large dc to dc and dc to ac system every day i even have a few much more modern fullbridge class d amps built and to say you can make big power in a small package is an understatement 88-95% efficiency is not to hard to do and with a power stage running at 10-100x the switching frequency rail caps can be much much smaller then ditch all the old junk like the pwm gens pull in a basic signal into a fast adc to a fast 120mhz+ microcontroller with dma and 32bit pwm buffers, let the mcu do it all let it control dead time and crossover feq doubling. you can get crazy high efficiency with crazy power my prototype is about the size of a 200w asic amp but has no problem doing around 2200w on the ad-1 at 12.6v currently scaling up design to have a small batch made that can do a solid 10k at 12v at 2ohm at it's smart about it down to 0.25ohm -2ohm a solid 10k all day once i get my 10k proto in from active i can start asm and if all is good expect to see something hit market going to see if jp wants one to play with maybe get him to sell them any ways they are going to be small and efficient grossly under rated for competition and daily beating using purely smt tech and modern gafets

We may highlight some of the subs we build in-house, as well as some others.

@@Facekicker that would be awesome!!

I have one, and plan to get it on the bench soon.

I've seen ~14k rising to 1.4 ohms, and ~7k rising to 3.1 ohms, you should definitely end up with more clamped power.

@@Facekicker clamped 16,659 watts at 0.1 on AMM1.

How’s your bass 15k holding up I got the 8k but thinking about jumping up to the 15?

I probably should run bigger gauge for the large amps - I can barely fit the paired 12g into the dyno connectors though. I'll see what I can do for the next big amp.

@@Facekicker I can tell it could be a pain to work out, but I bet you would pick up a few hundred, maybe several hundred more watts at 1 ohm. Maybe a pair of 8awg distro blocks as close to the amp and dyno as possible, so you only need say an inch or 2 of 8awg, then split to like 4 8's. I'm not sure if you can insert an extra wire into the back of those dyno connectors at the same time, and run 2 wires into them? (1 form the side like you do, and 1 from the back?) I'm not sure if the insert would get in the way f the other wire. OR you could just ram another banana plug into the back of those ones, and stack them that way, something to think about anyway, I wonder how much that 12awg heated up at 1 ohm? Good vid mate, as always. Definitely helping with my future purchases! 👍

@@minus3dbintheteens60 fiddling with it today I noticed I've been running 10g this whole time and not 12g, which explains why it's been hard to get into some of the cheaper amps I've dynoed 😂. I may have a plan to run 8g though.

@@Facekicker sounds good man, it sure would be interesting to see how much that 15k was held back by that wire! (if at all)

I have the bass 8k on 2 vxf 12's and i love it.

They've clamped rated power in vehicles as I mentioned - the limits of a bench dyno are whats holding us back.

@@Facekicker some ppl just watch dynos they never put it in a car so they don't know the difference. Why they make lame comments. But I'm sure you know this lol. But good video's! I love your channel 👍💯💨💨💨

@@bassjunkie2020 looks like the comment I replied to was deleted. Thanks for your support!

@@TuffApe how does that amp sound with them 2-12”?

14402 watts at 13.95 volts…. What are u talking about?

It did 13k @ less than 14v. It's rated for 15v. It met their claim.

I want allllll the CMAX 😉

@@Facekicker where is the best place to get it? And did u have to put it all together or do they come put together sometimes?

@@justinkelsey9218 I get mine built locally, shoot me or my page a message and I can get you in contact with my guy. I do know shipping the assembled units can be costly however.

I consistently clamp ~14k from mine in my car, wired to half ohm and using a CMAX lithium at 15v.

@@Facekicker im talking about clean signal tho no clipping i can get way over rated power from my amps top but ive also reconed three out of four subs and had to get the output section of my amp repaired around $1000 in mistakes. Still a good amp for the price tho

They do rated. They aren't rated for 13-14v, they're rated 15-17v.

I consistently clamp about 13k out of mine that is wired to half ohm.

How do you know that the BASS series sounds better than the MD?

@@bassheadlife492 because that's what they were designed for?? 😉

You'd never know the difference between the two when proper crossovers are set

@@Facekicker I use a dsp so my xovers are always good

How? It did 13k at less than 14v. It's rated for 15v+ 🤣

@@xchimnyx manual says 12-14.9 so yea that means it shouldn't be more then 8% off at 1 volt lower then rated so no

Bench limitations... Bench limitations... Bench limitations...

@@Facekicker I know I was about to say that if this amp can handle 16v it will would make it there to 15k

@@________GHOST________ bass line can handle up to 17v

@@________GHOST________ I run both my bass 15ks at .4 ohm and 16.1 volts. These things are powerhouses

I clamp about 13k from mine in the dB Drag lanes, which is great for a 15k.

Cool, if you have a 15k amp that's putting out 15k RMS to your sub(s). You have the most inefficient piece of shit enclosure on the planet.b

Their build quality is actually far superior to any other full bridge manufacturer, and they offer the best warranty service of ANY amp manufacturer I've ever seen.

Dumb Lmaoooo did you even watch the video bozo?

I consistently clamp 13k out of mine, after rise, wired to .5..... It's just a hard amp to bench test due to the current draw required to make 15k.

Taramps Bass15k is ~75-80% efficiency which is quite good for an amp this size. Most Korean power equivalent amps are a lower efficiency. And even if you had 15kw in Class H amps you'd be faced with literally the same amount of current draw as a Class D amp making 15k.

I've been running a pair over 5 years with no issues, they have the best protection circuits of any full bridge amps out there and they are built to tolerate their internal loads unlike some of the Chinese full bridge amps that are popular.

Mine have been working for nearly 5 years 💪💪💪

How? Seriously... How?

Best thing to do is look at built CMAX units

@@Facekicker Where can you buy the batteries?.

@@DBThatBassMan You'll need to find a cmax builder, you can check some of the Facebook groups like Official DIY Lithium Battery Group, or some of the bigger car audio pages.