Video I shot of me rebuilding my TBI intake, it was not intended as a how to but the quality was good enough that someone should be able to use it for their rebuilds
The two long silver colored screws are to hold the fuel pressure regulator cover in place while installing the spring. Place the red diaphragm in place and put the long screws through the regulator cover (without the spring) and start the screws into the housing. Compress the spring and slip it under the cover and the long screws will keep it in place while you start two original screws. Remove the long screws and install the other two hold-down screws and that’ it. Keep the long screws for the next TBI rebuild, because some repair kits don’t include the long screws.
This helped me a ton! Thank you! I made my own video to help others I hope. I made a few mistakes along the way but perseverance paid off. I love working on my k1500!
Most excellent my friend, with your video as a guide, I rebuilt my TBI on my 95 suburban k1500, solved all my issues, no more backfiring, no more bogging down under load, AND a little extra pep. Not a lot... but like driving grandma's car, just a touch more responsive from not being beat on. lol Thanks again!!
By far the most useful video on youtube for this particular subject. I dont know what the tiny tiny screens are for either, but they must put them in there for some reason as theyve been in qll the kits i have seen and everyone else wonders what they are for. I rebuilt mine as part of installing an upgrade called ‘TBI power up kit’ qit includes a 14lb regulator spring and a larger spacer between the injector and reg chassis and the main body with the throats. Took me 40 minutes to install as its just replacing parts already in the rebuild, and the results were dramatic. Stock engine was smoother, more torque low, fatter horsepower curve and noticeably easier running at 150kph. I have my engine in a shag wagon that weighs almost *4.5 tons, and it improved mixture delivery enough to make that mass jump. I also tried an 18lb spring, but my fuel pump ran iut of gas (heh) and not much improvement. The little kit was about 40$ and it is hands down the most hp per dollar ive seen. They claim it puts 14hp into a stock engine and i think its more. Anybody doing this rebuild, you would be insane not to add this kit when you do. *7000lbs machine, 1600lbs of glitter, shag and wood grain.
U were wondering what that little blk plug was there is actually 2 of them in the kit and they r small screens that go in the sides of ur injectors ..they look like tiny plugs but there screen...
Great Video, thanks so much. Been putting this off for a min because I haven't been able to find a decent tutorial until now. Love the uncut errors as well, nice to see what can go wrong.
Excellent video. Love the double speed. Those two long screws in the kit are to align the pressure regulator cover while you push down the spring. Helps keep the diaphragm from moving.
That is super useful to know! someone else in the comments was saying that they struggled with the diaphragm. I feel like i got lucky with it, but the clamp was a super handy way of doing it. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video, you were there with me the whole time. The only problem, i don't think you mentioned the orientation of the fuel injectors the fact that the lil piece at the bottom has to line up with the notch inside the bowl. Had to pull top back off after fuel was squirting everywhere. 3rd gen had an injector video where he explained how they're oriented.
Thanks David. Doing mine RIGHT NOW as I type. lol. My kit (which is the same as yours) is missing the transparent plastic washers that go on the fuel fittings. They only gave me one. Go figure. Probably end up using the old one. I've got a 92 Olds Custom Cruiser and I was getting a real high idle in park and neutral, drove perfectly fine. Maybe a little higher RPMs than usual. Replaced the ICV and that did not solve the issue. (It was under warranty anyway). Checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any breaks in the line, however I did see a large chunk of the gasket that seals the TBI onto the intake mani blown out of the side. So I figured I'd just do it all in one swoop. Thanks for the video friend.
The (2) very small ones are screens. They're in the side of each injector. Most do not replace them unless the ones are missing or damaged. Always a good idea to coat all paper gaskets with Chapstick. This will prevent them from sticking.
The box idea is a good idea. When i replaced the heater core on my s10 i used a cardboard sheet and labeled rows of bolts from what area they came from.
The seal/gasket that you said was doubled and in fact there was two. It's not a gasket or seal it is a thermal barrier between the fuel passages and the actual throttle body. So two actually can't hurt but can also act as a better thermal barrier. Good job nice video
Again I used a big socket and put it down over my injector and pressed it with a C-clamp to press the injector into the housing which gave it a nice even press all the way around the edges
Great video man! To help you out next time, use a little motor oil on the screens and O rings for the injectors, it will make your life a lot easier with sliding everything back together, fortunatley I got new injectors which had the screens already on
Instead of a screwdriver on that screen that slips over the injector I use a socket a deep well socket this way to the edge of the screwdriver you did a good job you didn't mess it up but some guys are split the break it with the edge of the screwdriver so a deep well socket Works a little better anyway good job
The injectors have to seat and the rubber O'rings got to stay seated and you press the injectors in 24:13. I did one just like this with two torn retinas and macular eye pucker, it looked like the injectors were down but I guess not quite. I tittened all screws then another guy put it back in the truck. The stress on the metal that surrounds the injectors busted looked like a dog took a bight out of it. Lucky I had a whole another Throttle Body to put in. Thought I would say this to watch for that O'Ring needs to stay in and the injectors make sure need to be all the way down.
Really good video you did a really good job with that camera wasn't too close you could really see what you're doing I also have a suggestion if you're into this type of video check out motor man how he puts the injectors through spray test it's really cool anyway great job
The tiny piece (that you couldn't figure out where it went) goes on the side of the injector. you have to take the other one out, i used a took pick to get it out
Just watched this video to help make sure I got mine back together right as I was lubing injectors up noticed the little screens in the side and changed them should have look in comments I would have know
I just did mine and now when I start my truck it shoots gas out of the tbi gasket I went back and checked all my screws there tight and it sounds like I got a cam
the little tiny screen you were talking about goes in the side of the fuel injectors there should be 2 of them they are kinda of a pain to get in straight and flat!
I rebuilt my tbi about 3 or4 years ago. After I got done I found 2 little seals left over, what did I miss. They were about 1/8 of an inch in diameter. Thanks for any help, the truck seams to run fine.
Please, I have a 1993 Caprice that has black smoke, incorrect fuel combustion, the engine sounds loud and low at times, and the engine is unstable and when driving the car it turns off
Hi, great vid. I'm about to do this job. Has anyone tried the fuel pressure regulator spring upgrade? It bumps up the pressure from 11-12 psi to 14-15 psi. Just curious if anyones tried it and what they think after doing it.
Hi men, what was the problem with your truck initialy so therefore decided to make this whole maintenance on your TBI system? I have the same 5.7 liter but I am not completely sure that this replacement of gaskets and o'rings it going to solve my idle problem. However some friends recommended me to do it. Thanks.
Jesus Zambrano turned out my distributor was completely screwed internally, there was no base signal for the injector pulses so it would not stay running when idling and would only run a little when reved past 20% throttle because the pulse management is controlled by the ecm at that point. It was pretty hard to find the issue because everyone kept saying "rebuild throttle body, replace fuel pump filter iac...."
The little peace is for the injectors should have came with two one for each . There will be a little hole on side of injectors it has to be popped into place but take out old one first
David...I guess that little screen goes in the little hole at side the injector. In my case the injector has. It is a 4,3L, I don't know if the 5,7L, Your case, has it too.
Just a heads up when you put the screen on injector make sure you position it so it doesn't cover the holes for fuel inlet. Otherwise great video.Good job.
I rebuilt my whole throttle body and yet my truck still runs high throttle any suggestions but when I pull back on the throttle cable it starts acting nomal
if it is not your idle screw or something interfering with the cable itself, I would look to see if your IAC is doing something incorrectly. Pull it out and see if the cone is dirty or the seat has some junk on it that would be allowing too much air into the throttle body
Did it fix your problem and what was the problem. I'm having problems when getting on to the freeway I get on it and it stumbles not all the time just some times idles good drives good starts good I changed vacuum lines and all sensor and EGR valve on intake manifold even thermostat and temp sensor still stumbling
Not what is was having issues with, the hall effect sensor in my distributor had shattered. Mine was barely running. I would make sure your timing is advancing. Is the brown wire connected?
I was wondering if there was a particular way you had to place the injectors. especially when you go to plug up the injectors at the end. I didnt know if there was a positive or negative layout.
jacob truitt there is a pin in the bottom of the injector that will prevent you from putting the injector 180 out of place, and the plug itself is coming from the front housing. so it should plug in right, there is another comment on the video about putting the screen on the right way. I have a feeling I didn't do that and haven't checked if they are straight.
im pretty sure i put the screens on the right way im getting perfect spray out of my injectors. im about to drop my fuel tank and change the fuel pump because for some reason my car will randomly shut off especially when the temperature is high out side. but the fuel filter was dirty very dirty. any suggestions on the fuel pump or a reason why my car would be shutting off? it is all stock from 85.
jacob truitt only thing that I can think is that the pump coil might be over heating? how hot are we talking, also how long is it on before shutting down, because the pump is using the fuel for cooling... maybe causing pump to shut down till it cools or a vapor lock situation, not sure on that, I dont think a positive pressure system can even do that... so idk :)
David Wostrel, it only does it after 20 minutes of driving even stop and go. and like I said it usually only happens when it's hot outside or I ha EA drove it on interstate
my 92 Z71 runs like a champ but when I rev the gas up sometimes and come off the throttle it goes all the way down to a choke and then evens out. I bought it like that for years ago and I have worked it every day since it just does it
I bought a 94 that had the same issue. I drove it like that for almost 2 years until I finally replaced the egr module and egr valve. It runs great now.
I had fun laughing at the really hard time you have holding that tiny little microscopic screen. lmao. It goes in the injector btw. Sure you already know by now.
@@davidwostrel You can see your injectors have the filter on the side in your video at 16:28 right above your thumb. I just rebuilt my TBI today. That's how I stumbled upon your video. It's a good video and I doubt not replacing the filters will effect much.
I'm doing that right now and had a whole bunch of fuel rush out of the regulator area after my first attempt. I'm giving it another shot in the morning.
does anyone know the size of the torx bolts that hold on the fuel rail and injectors? I was replacing one of the injectors and gaskets and wouldn't you know it ... one of the longer screws went flying !!!! just one bolt is holding up this easy fix
Nilk Narf oh man that sucks! I would head to the junk yard to get the bolt or take the good one to a good hardware store and see what they have available
yes sir, I took one ot the hardware store, I found a bolt that was the same diameter an thread, BUT the head stripped before I could torque it down. Im headed to a few junk yards this weekend,.crossing my fingers they don't make me buy a hole rail for one bolt
@@premixpeter1972 Mine had no washers coming out either, from what i understand they are "retaining rings", I suppose to keep the washers in place should they expand? Not quite sure on that, but it all went back together with the metal rings on it so.... ::shrug:: * I should have taken note of the positioning of the fuel injectors before I put them in with the washers, went to plug them in, had to loosen everything back up and rotate the injectors 180.
Poor quality vs poor experience? Well Thanks for your time here. The long rods are a alignment tools for the pressure regulation body. And the tps would help with to much fule or wide open injectors. And the little black extra parts are filter screens they go in the little holes on the side of the injectors ; the little black spots there is one per, use a o- pick or small needle nose pliers.
i'm really hoping somebody can help me, i have a 94 s10 pickup with a 4.3 1 of the tbi injectors weren't spraying i assume from sitting since last summer. now here's my problem i had my friend crank it over while i tapped on the bowl and it started to work the only problem is it's spraying too much fuel to the point its flooding the right side of the carb, the left one is pulsing normally but the right is a strong straight cone of fuel with no pulsing. any ides or help would be appreciated.
Yes, as far as I can tell they are the same I have both a 1992 Silverado 4.3 & 1992 Sierra 5.7 extended cabs and I recently put the fuel presser regulator and the fuel injectors from the 4.3 into the 5.7 the fuel regulators were adjust a little different between the two the tab thats part of the adjustment screw on the 4.3 was lower in the housing. with this one the GMC now starts better & runs a tad calmer, but it doesn't have the snap in the engine as it di with the original Pressure regulator with the tab quite as low as the 4.3 I could catch 2nd gear rubber with the original and now I cant even burn rubber in 1st gear I have an 4l60 atuo in the GMC And a 5 spd. standard in the Chevy. Also before i went thru gas bad, I'm hoeing now will be an improvement on gas guzzling. I hope this helped! I would be happy to hear any thoughts any of you have out there. thanks
Where can beat you gaskets are that doesn't really matter that gasket really doesn't do anything but keep the throttle body up off the base they actually make a high-performance gasket that list a throttle body up off the base of that I think Summit Racing has I bought a spacer for mine between the manifold and the throttle body
