Hi Mick, I just watched your video and wanted to say that you are an excellent teacher. You take the time and trouble to explain exactly what to do to the smallest detail. I was lucky to have been able to attend some of your courses. Thank you for this video
Thank You for taking the time to share this. I just started painting fishing lures 4 months ago and I am going to try this technique on a rat or mouse pattern. I'll practice on paper trying to get that shorter hair look. Hopefully I can make it work. Again, Thank You for your time II just learned something new about airbrushing today.
Brilliant video thanks Mick. Can I just ask one question? You mention you are using a water based paint in the airbrush. Can you please tell me which brand?
Some of the more aggressive erasers are getting difficult to find, try searching for typewriter erasers or pergamano eraser , everytime i normally find an ebay listing that is USA, thanks
Amazing! You had me glued to the video until you brought that curved knife out at the end. It was almost as bad as chalk. 🤤😲😭.... Seriously, I appreciate you sharing your craft!
I have been using an airbrush for my art work since the 60's and over the years have run training and workshops about using airbrushes and related mediums. You said at the beginning of this tutorial you use "Un-reduce paint" for for this project. I have to say in my experience that when you want to rub back using what you showed or using rubbers/electric erasers it's best to reduce the acrylic paints using water. This will weaken the acrylic binders used in airbrush acrylics making the process easier to remove the paint on your illustration board. I found that some brands of acrylic inks such as "Schmincke Aero Color" binders will actually "ball up" when scratched back. You can always spray straight acrylic binder/medium over your work after you rub it back to give the paint extra strength. This is only a suggestion, as I work for some time manufacturing artist pants. Nice Video ;-)
I dont agree Ken, i find with reducers you have to layer the paint more to build up the intensity desired leaving a harsh erase mark, with the paint neat i find it stays fragile for a bit longer allowing a longer working time, but of course we are all different and this is what i find works best for me Cheers Mick
Vil Custom of course, if you are planning to do a project on auto surface, paint the area white first and clearcoat, prep the clearcoat with a 800 grit paper or disc and you are ready to paint
brilliant, I've painted a few dog portraits in my time, but have had to stick to short haired only due to my inability to 'do' long fur, been playing around with airbrushes since the early 70s, self taught as there was no RU-vid back then, have only ever been very average in my artwork, dabbled in a few custom paint jobs on bikes and helmets. worked of years as a ceramic glaze airbrush painter. now I am finally retired I intend to work on my skills, it's due to people like yourself taking the trouble to make such informative video's that more and more people are turning to this fantastic way of creating art, so thank you and keep up the good work. Now... this 'eraser' pencil, erm,... what exactly is it? what do I order from Amazon?? thanks.
The best ones to use are old typwriter erasers they are really hard and you get a good clean mark with them, but recently ive been using florette eraser pencils, i buy them direct from a german stationer as they are hard to find in the uk
What surface are you using here, please? These technique look like they'd work really well on Claybord! I'm also interested in that tape! What is it & where can I get it, please?!
Hiya the tape is a japanese washi masking tape, made by JTape The technique will work perfect on clayboard or on this synthetic paper called Lana Vanguard Thanks Mick
but ive a quesiton plz,it looks you did it on a paper,how about if do it on a hard surface,such as a helmet,or an engine pannel?shall i paint white first,then black area,then scratch by a knife?will this work?
Paint it white first, clearcoat it, prep and sand with around 800grit. This will give you a good barrier from the white and will allow you to scrape and erase without damaging the white, cheers Mick
You can buy them or look up images on net,save picture and print it on paper,cut it out and use it ,if you want it to last longer than paper stencil you can always use document files
Mick Neill yupo is very expensive paper,maybe photo paper can be used? I used to do some ink on yupo,but lately getting photo paper and using back side of it,works just like yupo but,much,much cheaper..just wondering if you ever tried any photo paper for this type of technique
Exactly the same technique, to do so you must paint the area white and cleacoat it before trying to erase like that, flat clearcoat with 800 grit wet and dry and you will be ready to go
Not as clean, you can erase on a good gesso canvas but because of the texture you dont get a nice clean line, the surface im using is called Lana Vanguard
Smeagolls i use a number of different erasers, some more aggressive than others, some of the hard erasers are difficult to get hold of, florrett white erasers are great if you can find them
Smeagolls it can also be paper issue.hes using chemical Yupo style paper what don’t absorbs paint and has it only on surface.if you take normal paper,it will absorb paint and mars will stay...
Spidering is caused by too much paint delivery for the distance your at, or paint too thin for the surface , it still happens sometimes, My air pressure is only 15 psi which helps
but I like watching your videos, there must be more knowledge that I can get here, even though there are different media, keep on working😊 greetings from Indonesia
