I will have to revisit the Viscosity Oil part of the video but this is a basic rundown of what your are supposed to use and what is acceptable to use today in your IH and Farmall tractors .
You can use whatever oil you think is good in your tractor. I in this video am only giving my opinion and showing what I use per manufacturers recommendation.
I could not agree with you more. We’ve had dozens of old tractors and the standing rule is if it’s never been rebuilt, it gets SAE 30 non-detergent. If you start scrubbing old motors, that junk will break loose and you could plug the sump. If that happens, you’re screwed. New motors, sure, detergent is great. Great video
Where you're located depends on what oil you use, too. When these tractors came out, the technology wasn't as good, especially with oil. Multigrade oil was developed in the 1970s. So when IH recommended oil, they did so with the best suited at the time. 30 is fine in North Carolina when the temperature seldom gets below freezing. But originally they recommended 30 for summer use and 10W for winter use. 10W is too light for anything but cold weather and when the engine gets warm, the pressure goes down markedly. To solve the problem, oil companies came up with multigrade oil. We use 15W40 year round, because we have winter here and 5 months of the year, when the temperature is sustained below freezing, and we have started them as low is -20C (-3F) My dad has used that oil in those tractors for over 45 years and never had one single problem, and we still have some of those tractors to this day. Low ash 30 oil is fine, but here it's very difficult to find. Everybody here uses 15W-40 and it does work fine.
Great video. And every body has there own opinion. Like you said. That’s for sure. I use 10w-30 in all my garden tractors and my 1951 Tea20 Ferguson tractor. In the motors. I’ve never seen low ash oil in my location. And I know I really should be using 30w oil. But the few things I read in engine manuals, that say, 10w-30 is a good substitute. Just check the oil more often. And 10w-30 is very easy to get any where and could be on sale in places too. Any way. Great Video and have yourself a great day.
Thanks for the informative lesson on IH/Farmall oil. Although I'm an Oliver guy, I do have a Farmall C and H. At least now I'll know what is the correct oil to put in the transmission and the lift. Thank you, sir.
@@farmall51 Well, all you were doing was reporting things that were facts. I know with my White 2-110, I don't like shelling out the money for the AGCO oils that are called for, for the transmission and over/under, but those systems are designed with those lubricants in mind, so it's best to stick with them.
I run 15W40 in everything Diesel Gas and my reason for saying that is it flows better cold and is heavier hot. Its a more modern oil that far surpasses the specs of low ash 30weight in every way. I high doubt if I.H. had todays oils then they would have recommended low ash 30weight but at the time it was the oil that met specs. That being said you could run bacon grease and these engines would be fine.
Some of the high performance diesel oils have to much zinc in them to run in an engine that has yellow metal in it. Can chemically react & eat cam and governer bearings up.
15-40w rottella t4 or delo 15-40 for my stuff every engine gets the same oil. Regular hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics. Hytran is probably reused atf. Also not everyone has rebuilt tractors . Some of us got ol clapped out ones that need the thicker oil.
Not trying to start an argument just pointing out something that you didn't really cover when talking about oil and grades and stress on a pump. You said 15w40 would stress the pump as it's thicker than the 30weight. 15w40 is thinner than 30w cold. So untill the 30w is up to operating temp it is thicker than 15w40. Both 15w40 and 30w are thinner at operating temp than 30w cold. I will agree that 15w40 is slightly thicker than 30wt when warm.
Yeah it's thinner in the beginning but when it got to 50 it was harder for the pumps to pump it like it should causing wear faster on the pump. Ken Updike has said before that IH knew what they were doing 😂.
@@farmall51 well the most common diesel oil people use is 15w40. I think there is a 15w50 but it's not as common and of course there is 20w50 but I haven't heard many people running 50 weight in a cub. And given most engine wear is at startup and that thick oil puts that stress the most on a cold engine is why I like a multi weight oil so it can stay thinner at cold temps...not just like freezing(cause I too live in the south) but temps below operating temp, and get toy critical points faster and also not to be as hard to get flowing untill up to operating temps.
Also original specs don't take into account 70 years of wear or whatever it has been since your last rebuild. Looser pump tolerances in the gears, bigger ring gaps, larger bearing clearances etc so many of these engines are not as designed new. I totally understand what your saying and appreciate this video. Everyone needs to take all the knowledge that they can gain from every source and make their own decision on the oil that they like running that's best for them.
I use SAE 30, too, but idk if it’s low ash. It’s just the stuff from NAPA. I’ll definitely go out and get the low ash 30 if I can find it. What’s that alternator shield you have on there? I’d like to get one of those but the only ones I can find are made for the alternators set on the right side of the tractor. Thanks for another video!
I know this has nothing to do with this video. Where is the serial number on a Farmall 100 it has a tag but you can’t read it Is there any other way to find serial number? I believe it’s a 55 it was my dad’s.
I guess they were trying to simplify things and have it where there was only 2 different oils the had to use on that tractor. But since it is transmission oil too it would work. They changed the seal's in the rears to be able to hold it all in as well.
Yes , IH did this in the letter series and later switched to a touch control fluid which became HY-TRAN. But yes they will operate perfectly fine with 30w non detergent oils in them.
Yeah I don't know what ih did. I do know if you put high trans in a system that was designed for hydraulic fluid/atf you might blow the seals in it. believe me I've done it lol. Then you will have hy trans pouring into your engine.
My local IH dealer stopped carrying low ash oil. At my business I contacted my local shell dealer and told him the situation. He said any of the Shell oils that has T in the name is a low ash oil. I use one of my tractors in very cold weather during the winter months and he recommended to me Rotella T5 10w30 for my engines. Do you think I should be only using 30 wait in the tractor??
You can use whatever oil you think is good in your tractor. I in this video am only giving my opinion and showing what I use per manufacturers recommendation. But that's what the book called for was 30w in the engines . Thanks for watching
No, I don't. We have used 15W40 for 45 years in those tractors and no problem at all. In the winter, 30 is too thick. The viscosity 10W has a W denoting it is suitable for winter use. 30 does not. 30 is not suitable for winter use in engines.
@@tyfrank3427 Good day Yrs ago we 414 & used shell rotella 20-40 it was hot summer plowing, it used oil so I put a straight 30, then it was alright. So straight 30 is probably heavier than 15-40 Thanks
@@donvoll2580 It depends. 15W40 is lighter than 30 oil in cold temperatures but when the engine is hot and working it is actually heavier. 15W40 is suitable for winter use hence the W. 30 does not have the W meaning it is not suitable for winter use. Using 15W40 instead of 30 is part of the reason why it was below freezing, and I started my Super W-6 with one rotation of the crank. My dad has used 15W-40 diesel engine oil in those gas tractors since the 1970s and we have had absolutely no problem with it. The diesels require a heavy duty diesel oil, including the ones that start on gas. Low ash is generally a gas engine oil only. But diesel engine oil is fine in the gas engines, and when we run both, we keep the oil the same in everything so there's no confusion. The sulfated ash content is now a lot lower in diesel engine oil than it used to be. I found specs on Farm Oyl low ash 30 and compared it to Co-op DMO and the sulfated ash content is exactly the same in the Co-op 10W30 as the Farm Oyl, and 0.1% more in the 15W40.
Yes you are right I forgot to mention that. Viscosity made it for them anyway. Cih really screwed up when they quit getting the HY-TRAN made by viscosity.
