In the owners manual it gives you 4 or so types of wheels and tire options that won’t affect the utes ability to move 👍🏼 I personally want to go to a taller tire also you can just type in the original tire vs the update you want and it will calculate the percentage in the speedo 👍🏼
The increase in diameter changes the gearing which is why it feels like you are in a higher gear and why there is a bigger "gap" between the gears now. The other thing it does is the brakes now have a larger lever trying to turn the wheel so they work a lot harder, you don't seem to tow so not such a big issue for you but 1 inch increase in diameter can make good brakes rubbish. Off road, low tyre pressures to where the tyre bags out will lessen ground clearance and gearing somewhat.
@MRTriton - just some feedback because you mentioned you're not sure. Speedo's are out generally 5kph +/- due to the tollerance requirements in this country. It is a manufacturing requirement in order to sell vehicles in Australia that the speedo is within 0.10% accuracy (I believe that's the correct %) if the speedo was to show slower than the vehicle is actually moving, however, they are allowed to have a 10% tollerance if the speedo is showing faster than the vehicle is actually going. Due to the cost and the implications of getting this wrong, majority of manufactures or lower cost vehicles, they opt for the 10% tollerance. I've never seen a car with 10kph myself though. I noticed that this requirement was actively enforced from 2007. I hope this helps clear this up for you :) PS, love the vids mate
Great video! I put 265/65/17 wildpeaks on my auto GLX and it goes great. Speedo is reading 100km/h when I'm actually doing 98km/h which is great and the diameter is the same as what comes standard on the GLS etc with the 18s. I have bullbar/rails/steps and it's a tray back dual cab with ladder racks etc. Still average 9-11L/100km so can't complain. Plus power seems fine and it's legal. I reckon keeping mods sensible and to only what's needed is best and too many people go way over the top and never need it. Just my thoughts though.
Something I learnt with my old 3ltr Toyota Surf was keeping a set of K02 or similar in the shed for adventures, while having just standard road tyres on for daily commute.
Went from the stock 18's with 265/65r18 KO2's to 17x8+25 wheels wrapped in 285/70r17 Maxis RAZR MT's on my manual GLS. Funnily enough, I initially made an enquiry with a local shop about the 285's, but then later discussed sticking to 265's for the NEGS that come with a larger tire. When the time came to take the car in, it rolled out on 285's, my inner boy looked and couldn't say no just because of how cooked awesome it looked. Once driving, noticeably the ride was wayyyyyy comfier on my rough ass dog shit country roads, I am yet to even begin to struggle out in the paddocks, creek crossings and rocky hill climbs at home, low range shenanigan's are hilariously easy and my god it looks amazing. HOWEVER, my fuel economy has gone to absolute shit - great timing, my clutch - my poor clutch, I pretty much don't use 6th gear anymore, and towing? Forget about it. Next time I think I might step down to a 265 MT.
Another interesting video. What's the best rear top canopy? Roller, or those hard plastic hydraulic type. Any help cheers. Forgot t to mention we are definitely buying one in manual after watching your videos. But going back to your comment about modifying your vehicle with tires. So what tire would you recommend or power on the gear change? Same size rim bigger tire? Or
My Triton has factory 18 inch wheels, and this has been an issue only in high range, trying to get the engine on boost in first gear up any sort of a hill or off road. I have slightly larger than factory tyres (265/65/18) and it hasn’t really bothered me too much, but can be annoying. I have a throttle controller and it hasn’t made much difference down low. Just need a shorter first gear, or boost to come on earlier… or an auto haha.
Definitely lots to consider when upgrading tyres, good video mate. When you change tyre size, it also affects the fuel consumption reading from the car’s computer, because no one programmed the computer to know that the tyre dimensions changed. This should be factored in when comparing fuel efficiency like you mentioned in this video. I’m not sure you can trust the results if someone has upgraded tyres, and the other hasn’t… I noticed the different setups of rooftop tent in the video. The one on the roof racks is the pick by far. It’s not really acting like a parachute, the spoiler effect counteracts this. But the load is centred between the axles. This is optimum. Yes the tent load is higher than the other option, but at least it’s between the axles. The problem with having the tent on top of the tub, is that you’re putting load behind the axle. This problem is accentuated because MR Tritons dimensions have an awkwardly positioned rear axle to start with, which is the main reason Tritons can only tow 3.1T, whereas most others can do 3.5T. The instability that load behind the rear axle causes, is probably more dangerous than the alternative. If you want to look into this further, google the engineering terms “pitch and yaw”, and maybe start following the John Cadogan page. I’m only saying this because I want people to be safe, including your family and your followers
Greetings, my triton currently using 266/70/17r MT tires and i'm having same issue like you especially the hill take off one. I wonder if changing from MT to RT tire with 255/70/17 size make any difference.
Common mistake most do is add far too much width on tyres. And I say this thought experiance I have been wheeling for more than 30 yrs and I learnt to do this in the army. None of their vehicals use tyres that are wide, the wider tyres load up the cvs hard . I will always use a taller tyre but minimise the extra width for example I probaly wouldn't dump the steelies but use a 235 85 16 . A proper 32 inch tyre with any ifs vehical once your above this size you start changing the gearing too far this is the "gutless" issue. So the only real way around this is change the gear sets in the diffs. And in a mitsubishi thats no easy task!
I'm surprised by this video. I have a 2022 glx-r auto with 275/65r18 tyres. Kenda klever rt's. I have noticed zero difference other than fuel economy over standard. Around 5% to 10% increase. Even the guys that did a 2 inch lift were surprised and asked if I'd had the vehicle dyno tuned (which i haven't). Maybe after 2 years you have a worn clutch or maybe it's because i drive an auto. I don't know. All i know is the bigger hybrid tyres have made a big difference to the off road ability and i use a bit more fuel. But gutless? Nah. No difference to my vehicle's ability at all. In saying that, I bloody love your videos so keep em coming!
Same here ute/trans here bro, I'm running 285/70 r 17 and they are fine other than fuel too. Get about 500km from a tank whereas my old 2019 on stock wheels would get 700km or so.
You are not loosing as much fuel as you think because when you had the smaller tyres on 100kmh when the speedo said 106 now it says 101 and your doing 100km less turns of the wheels for the same distance
@@paulmccleary1115 but when you were doing 700km on your dash it wasn't really 700km as your speedo shows more then it should some vehicles at 107kmh are doing 100kmh but when you put the larger tyres on it changes all of it bigger tyres is like putting a extra gear with a slight increase in drag
@@vaskodimoski5690 Not to the extent of 30% as I wrote. A 33 inch tyre has a less than 8% (20mm) larger circumference than the factory 30.5 inch tyre, therefore after 500km you wouldn't travel more than an extra 40km with a 33 inch tyre. After 700km you would roughly lose about 56km.
I'm running the auto GLS MR and after switching from standard 265/60/R18 HT to 275/65/R18 BFG KO2 AT that there was a very noticeable performance decrease (but speedo now reads perfect). So much so that take offs with the turbo lag were at the point of life threatening when trying to cross over fast flowing traffic. I got mine tuned shortly after by the guys at HPD (who I'd highly recommend) and now its night and day in difference. It was a sensible tune to improve fuel efficiency for towing so boost kicks in earlier and very noticeable down low. I'm considering dropping back to 265's again next time round as while I love the look and stance of the 32's, the around 10% fuel efficiency hit for everyday driving is a hard pill given the current cost of diesel.
@@Tad-tr6vi 2" lift originally with Ironman and then switched to Outback Armour. Rubbing on mud flaps (cable tied them back) and definite rubbing on sway bar on full lock.
isnt the 265/275 the width of the tyre? 60/65 would be the height, 265/65 would still be the same height just thinner tyre, so still the same circumference.
Its not rolling resistance, grip or width. It is the increases circumference lowering the torque. Just like putting a larger (front) cog on a motorbike or pushbike
I have the manual transmission so mine didn't come with one luckily. Personally, I understand it serves a purpose but I dislike the whole idea of it from an offroading perspective. Not sure what the implications would be if you were to remove it though
G'day, MQ Club Cab Manual C/chassis. I run PB Challenger 17" factory alloys with 265/70 17 Toyo AT's. My Speedo is so close to spot on it's not funny. I have verified this with a map's app as well as two different speedo apps. I ran the same Wheel and tyre combo on my MN. Before I installed them, I was adding an extra 700 meters on my speedo each way to and from work on a 27Km trip, 1.4 kays a day. That adds up to be a substantial amount over the weeks, months, years.
I love your "no nonsense" approach. Too many channels want you to add $20-30k on mods before your vehicle is capable. Would you have considered to keep the steel rims but put a better AT tyre on them? Best of both worlds?
I’ve got 275/75/16 on my mq triton and no loss of power what do ever as I have a throttle controller and if you get one of them I would bet you you would not worry about the size of the tyres
@@mrtriton5405 Legend. This is what good You-tubery is about 😀 Love the channel. I'm slowly getting my MR ready for some adventures and learning a lot from your channel. I have recommended to some fourby friends as well. Keep it up!
My Triton and my Pajero Sport both exaggerate the speed shown by about 5%. I know that I can sit on about 106kph and be safe on the highway. Slightly larger tyres will make the speedo show the actual true road speed.
My GLS MR auto had a what i think a bad issue where there was a delay in take off. It was so bad where i would roll into a roundabout and accelerate when there is a safe gap and had nothing from the accelerator pedal. The delay felt like eternity. Installed an EVC controller and made a huge difference. So when i press that accelerator pedal, there is confidence in take off, not a confusing, what the hell is happening. Did the full lap of Tassie with a caravan, they don't need a power chip or tune. If you want more power, get a bigger engine. Tunes are a time bomb, just my opinion.
I also have a GLS MR auto, there is 100% is a noticeable lag, although not as bad as you're stating. Get a throttle controller, it will eliminate the lag you're experiencing and make acceleration a lot better.
Hi I own a ml triton which has 32 inch tyres on it made the speedo correct my mn triton put same size tyres had to just got rid of the turbo lag my mr triton ijust Purchased it is standard it is a glx plus speedo is 7 km out this one is auto I looked into it will have to bring the torque range down to lower revs they say it is 430 NM torque at what range most normal driving you will never get to that torque so I think get rid of your turbo lag which will bring your torque closer to where you want it dont go ridiculous with the tune
