I really enjoy seeing your ideas for tool improvements come to life. Although I cringed when I saw you jigsaw the slots - jigsaws make a real mess of melamine. Overall I’m glad to see you upgraded the tool to make it something you can use knowing implicitly that it is dialled in and 90 degrees to the table. Thanks for the video Thomasz. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
I have a dewalt d2700 machine and I still had to beef it up even with a more expensive tool. You have certainly given it a better fence for sure. If it give good square results then great job done.
Thank you Tomasz for another interesting video. I have one of these machines although I have not used it yet (Waiting for warmer weather so I can use it outside) I'll bear this modification in mind though. Keep up the good work!
Fantastic work! I'm setting up my first proper shed after owning the planer for years, and I noticed the flimsy fence. I'm going to give your solution a go on mine; thank you for the inspiration!
Hi Tomasz. Really impressed. This is old school jig work which you are demonstrating including the hands on jigsaw cutting. I've NEVER EVER tilted my jointer fence once. Face and side edge square spot on, that's all that's required A1+. This is no contraption your English language is A1+ better than mine. It's a winner, I'll second it because It works. Tony
Just bought the same model today,a dn the first thing i will be doing is the upgrade to the fence. I knew its flaw when i bought it but for my budget it's the best machine. Your upgrade was one of the reasosns why I went for the Titan thicknesser/Planer rather than spending a whole lot more on two machines. thanks again for a great simple video. 😁
Hi Tomasz, Amazing how much thought and planning goes into an apparently simple project. Why didn't you route a groove on both pieces of the sliding base to ensure the fence would slide exactly square to the cutters. Mike
I don't really use this machine as a thicknesser so not had the need for that. However my Metabo thicknesser I use never had its rollers cleaned. But if you were using wood that potentially leaves a lot of residue then I would say that you would have to clean the rollers from time to time.
Thank you Tomasz. Another great video. Just brought myself the same model and am going to be doing this fence upgrade on mine as well. Was wondering how you managed to get the exact location of the screw holes on the back of the model to match up with the first section you attached? Thanks again.
Hi Tomasz nice upgrade i was a bit consenred seeing you using chip board not sure how long those screws would hold in the edge of the board. Regards David
Yes time will tell. I did add a lot of them so hopefully it will hold. It's material that I can afford right now so unfortunately it will have to do for now.
Amazing Tomasz. I not only have the sawbench and miter saw that you do, but I recently bought myself this planer thicknesser as well. I haven't used it yet...but looks like I will be upgrading it before I do. I see you used melamine...is that a cost thing? Plywood is so damn expensive here in Scotland..is it the same in Poland? Keep up with the videos...you are an inspiration.
Hope it will serve you well. I don't think you can get a better jointer for that money. Yes the melamine boards is a cost thing. In my local DIY store I can get off cuts of these board for really cheap. Ply and any sheet materials and wood is mega expensive. Hence I'm not sure when I'll do my cabinet projects for my workshop. I just can't afford the materials.
Great video Tomasz, couple of questions though, did you put the locking nut back on for the table height and can the table still be used in thickness mode (thinking of the dust collection)
No I didn't I just used a bolt to secure it with a rubber washer. Mine wasn't working anyway. I just tighten both of the bolts that secure the table movement and the front table stays in place when I adjust it. You need to take off the fence to use the thicknesser mode. But that's simple enough, just undo the two star knobs and take the fence off. I don't use this machine in the thicknesser mode hence its not a problem for me.
Take snipe when you use the jointer? Snipe with a planer (thicknesser) yes but jointer🤔 maybe your blades are not level or the tables are not positioned correctly. I made a video on jointer basics, maybe there's some information that could be useful ?
Nice 1 again Thomaz but i have often wondererd if you got a straight edge & face and piece is smallish. Could you not flip it & do all four surfaces. I know things about going against grain but remember i only been at it for a few months.
I would use aluminium C channel in that groove you made and either that white plastic you have as guide to ensure smooth motion inside the C channel., cause you know chipboard is...well it has got a chip in the name :). Now you can make that jointing tutorial :P
To be honest I used what I had nearest to my hand 😂but yes the plastic or even an aluminium t-track would be better. Hehe yes that video is on the list 👍
Great solution to the poor fence. Does this still allow the dust extraction port to fit on the top when using thickness mode? It looks like it might block the screw morning hole?
To be fair I never use it as thicknesser. And yes it will be in the way, but you only need to undo the two star knobs to take the fence off and its not in the way then.
Hi Tomaz Great video. I have the same machine. Do you have any drawings available (even if written by hand on a piece of paper) that would assist me in making the same fence system. Don't mind if there's a fee...
Thank you, I don't actually but I could put something together for you over the weekend. Just drop me an email with a reminder please. casualdiyuk@gmail.com
Hi Tomasz. Thanks for this video. I desperately need a jointer. I'm using a sled with shims and hot glue. it's really slow and tedious. I would eventually upgrade the fence, but as long as I get the face flat, I can edge it on a table saw sled in a few minutes. I also have a Triton thicknesser, so I don't care about that on this machine. My ultimate question is, are you happy enough with the face planing? It's €220 here in Ireland, and the cheapest Charinwood is double that. Thanks again for posting this and for all your videos. Shane.
Let's put it that way, if you can afford the more expensive Charnwood then go for that. If you are looking for the cheapest jointer them the Titan will do. Am I happy with it... no but at this price range there is nothing better. However if I ware to buy a different jointer it would be a much larger machine with cast iron top. As at the point I can't see any reason to go for anything that's between the Titan and a cast iron top jointer. Hope that helps.
Thanks. I've been looking at just a jointer but can't see anything decent. Was looking at the Triton jointer, the sister of my thicknesser but it's upwards of €500 and just not in the budget at the moment. There are some jointers on Amazon, still at entry level but around €300. As long as I can mill one face of my board, then I can ignore the rest and sort it out separately. It sounds like this can be achieved. Just want to get away from the fussy sled. Thanks again for your time. Much appreciated.
I seem to be one of the few who's fence is perfectly square. It does annoy me that it's not adjustable front to back so that the blades wear evenly but I've started clamping an auxiliary fence onto the original one.
I am trying to convince my wife to let me buy a planer/thicknesser but I have little space and little money. Would you recommend the Titan machine? Is it worth the money or do I wait for a better option?
Hi Casual Diy, i just want to say that you had a good idea but a very bad choice of material (for many reasons). You should have build it with plywood, not melanine. If the choice was for a much slipery surface then youshould go for constrution plywood. Very stable and slipery also. Or just waxed the normal plywood. That's what i used in my on the lower part (thickner). Again a great video and sorry about my english.
@@CasualDIY i can't afford it too, so i recycle everything i can find. The size of the parts you built weren't that big. Don't be afraid/ashamed of looking around on the transport and logistics stores (even IKEA and Leroy Merlin). You would be surprised with what you can find and they throw away... just a hint, now it's up to you.
@@mikefreitas1331 hehe I do, got some chip boards from old furniture that my parents had, some from large good disposal. But it's almost always laminated chip board. Never came across plywood, sometimes pieces of wood.
@@CasualDIY yes think ill make new fence does flex alot mind , im new too planing obviously is there a nack or do i just push through with even pressure
@@CasualDIY This should not change the fence being 90 degrees to the table, but if the G clamp affected the adjustable table perhaps shiming that end of the fence would stabilise everything.
@@Iazzaboyce Bit of a hassle to do as I do change the depth of cut depending if I'm doing a face or side of the board. If you clamp to the front bed it will lift the back side of the fence and it's not gonna be stable. And in this case it all about precision.
@@Iazzaboyce well the fence needs to be long and if one end will have no support then you are running into potentially having some flex at the infeed side.
I am convinced! NOT to get this tool! I might save some money cos it's cheap but I don't want to spend hours hacking a solution for something a surface planer should have already!
@@CasualDIY Yeah it's a bit sad. I think I'll save up my pennies and get the dedicated Triton surface planer. Of course that'd mean saving up even more for a separate lunchbox thicknesser, but I guess you gets what you pays for eh?
