Hi Everyone: This is how you remove the Cam Seal at the rear of the cylinder head on Toyota 4 cylinder engines. For more information be sure to visist: www.johnsadlers...
HI Aris, it's just a round piece of metal a little bit smaller than the seal. Some auto parts stores rent a seal driver kit or you can use a socket with an extension to install it.
90339-36001 part number just bought it today going to install it the same way as in this video , it's so funny people are making it seem like u need to take the valve cover off like some other videos I've seen lmao , seen a guy open the valve cover and not even change the seal lol he just put rtv silicone the seal is bad must be changed
Is this the seal that appears to be a rear cam seal if you're just glancing at it with the throttle body and such attached? I see a oil leak in that area large enough that warming the car up in the cold climate it's leaving a large coffee can size round oil puddle. I noticed this after I'd pulled a engine code for EGR insufficient flow and was looking at the area around there to identify the EGR valve and vsv down below. Once I get my garage organized again and get some floor space I'll let it sit inside overnight and get the EGR and whatever the leak is that appears to be on the rear of the camshaft fixed. Car lacks power and when hooked up to the Solus Edge I can see the EGR valve is opening/closing constantly while driving and recording data. I still need to test the EGR and vsv to verify which part is bad first. Hopefully I get some power back. Son had drove it this past spring and timing belt went out and took the water pump , water pump housing out with it and the belt had been done with a prior owner at 30k miles before. They probably should've replaced the pump then. After I'd got it back together it ran rough and on compression test had a weak cylinder but then a week later after letting it sit I found a vacuum line I'd forgot to put back on that had came loose by the intake that mounted to a little part on the firewall center of engine compartment. After replacing that part (which I knew the name of the part then but can't remember now) it started running fine then a few hundred miles later the check eng light came on with the EGR insufficient flow code. The car only has 162k miles on it so it's a keeper for a long time if you factor mileage and other work/parts we've did to it over the last year. Let me know your thoughts on the rear seal thing I was thinking of unless there is one I'm confusing with what you're doing here in the video. Nice homemade tool innovation as well.
Hi Dale, that is the seal at the rear of the cylinder head where a distributor would mount on an earlier vehicle. I would replace that one before anything else since it's already wet with oil around there. Lots of people think it's there rear main seal due to the oil runs down there. Get a shop to do BG Fuel Injection cleaning for you! Restores alot of power on these vehicles! I has several videos that show how to do it. John
John Sadler's Auto Repair Thanks for the info. Went out last night and looked in the cold and it's the rack and pinion. arghhh! Just did this on the wife's Impala 2 weeks ago so once I get my house garage cleaned up and space available I'll put it in there and do it. I did my wife's at a relatives house when he had space as we did broken sway bar, bushings and links all the way around, all 4 struts, tie rod ends, right front wheel bearing and CV Axle (Froze Up with rust). That was done until I overtorqued the intermediate steering shaft pinch bolt so I limped it home 2 miles with the threads stripped and have a new intermediate shaft waiting to go in as well when garage space clears up. After I get that replaced ($35 partlike new from auto recycler friend) I can get the alignment that's needed then the wife will have her work car. Back to the Toyota, is the rear seal on the head one of those deals only available from the dealer? Thanks on the cleaning tip as I do have the otc fuel injection cleaning tool kit. Need to do all my vehicles. My GM cars both have 111k on them, Toyota 163k and 04 Hyundai Santa Fe has 154k. I'm going to look and see if I can send you a direct message thru Google/RU-vid as I have a question for you regarding my Hyundai and a picture of the leak on back end of head we were talking about. If I find the way I'll direct message you my email address and you can respond when you have time as I'm not in a rush and thank you for your valuable information sir!
I had exactly the same leak on my 98 Toyota Camry le 4cyl about 5 months ago and I removed the same parts as this guy here except that I didn't bother removing the seal the seal was fine the problem is the little bit of sealant used around the edges of the seal wears off and it starts leaking common problem with this Toyota what I did I cleaned the seal gently and removed all the old sealant around it carefully made sure the area around the seal was dry and clean from debris and oil residue and I applied permatex silicone sealant all around the edges of the seal made sure I put enough to stop the leak I waited a half hour to make sure the new sealant did its job I put everything back together and waited around 3 hours before driving the car is being 5 months and is still holding perfect much easier than what this guy did. No need to buy a new seal of course if your seal is broken than you have to buy a new one and you still will need to apply some sealant around the edges of the seal the reason it starts leaking is because there was very little sealant on it when the car was assembled and after 70 thousand miles or more eventually will start leaking the permatex that you need is the same that is used for replacing the valve cover. Just take your time it only took less than two hours to do this job.
@@JohnSadlersAutoRepair. You should have put some it will eventually leak again if the seal wasn't broken or damaged the reason it failed because it had very little sealant applied to it I did everything you did except that I didn't buy a new seal I just cleaned it put some silicone permatex sealant around the edges of the seal very neatly waited half hour to dry and waited 3 hours before driving just to make sure the sealant did is job complete success no more oil leak.
