If your tractor is surging and you have enough fuel, then the fuel filter is about clogged. Most tractors use the CAV type filters and here is how they are replaced.
Thanks for taking the time to make a video about this, it is somehow comforting to see it done before you get at it yourself! Especially for a first time tractor owner like myself.
This video is AWESOME. I have never worked with the diesel fuel filter before and was a little worried. After watching this, I went out and changed it with no problems. The old Ford 3930 is running like new again. Thanks a million. And I can understand you just fine. Don't worry about the city folk that don't understand ya, they don't have a tractor anyways.
Great video, covered everything. I just resurrected a 6610 II and this helped me figure out what bolts to turn. Tip- the glass sediment bowl has three gaskets
That's great Bill! If you continue to have fuel issues, I'd recommend pulling the shutoff valve out of the fuel tank and checking the strainer. They tend to get clogged over time.
Success! I changed the filter on my 1975 ford 4000 after watching this. I never had feul come out of the bleed valve, so I turned over the engine. That probably pulled air into the line, so then I had to learn how to bleed the system. I'm hoping this solves my loss of power problem. I also watched the ford 3000 routine maintenance video. That looks very, very similar to the 4000.
Wish I saw this a couple of weeks ago, my ford 3500 was dying all over the place, changed the fuel filter BUT put the upper big washer in wrong and was still running out of fuel worked it out by putting the correct orientation and is running ok. been stuck all over the property bleeding the filter the injector pump and the inj. lines. this has been going on for a couple off weeks. got write before seeing your video, you made it very clear on how to do it. Thanks
Thanks for the great video. I just got my dad's old Ford 3910 tractor as a hand-me-down. Never used a tractor much before, so I have a lot to learn. You tractor's fuel filter looks identical to mine, so hopefully I can change it without much difficulty. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment! I hope it helps, the biggest issue on these are getting the O-rings (don't forget the one on the bolt) on correctly and bleeding it before trying to crank.
Thanks for making this video. My tractor was running very poorly, I decided to change the fuel filter. Wouldn't start and then found the bleeder and she started right up. Your video was helpful.
Good video, had no idea how to change the fuel filter on my dads ford 3000 tractor. Watched one video (this one) and done it. Love the roosters in the back ground
Great, thanks for sharing. I need to change mine and clean the prefilter. This is a little different than changing the filter on my diesel truck, since the tractor is gravity fed.
Good video! I have these filters on my Long an I despise them!! Lol!! I’ve never been able to get them to seal up the first time without fooling with them and getting drenched in diesel! Lol
Thanks for your video, I was interested because my 1994 Ford/New Holland 6610S after warming up would surge then die. I replaced the filter and cleaned the bowl, I disconnected the lines and blew air through them to dislodge any trash, I took off the check valves from the injection pump and cleaned them, I changed the fuel filter again, I found the fuel primer plunger was sucked down each time it died, aha cavitation, I replaced the fuel cap . . . still surged and died. Finally I removed the shutoff valve AND strainer. I sprayed carborater cleaner inside the tank and took a small rag on a coat hanger and swabbed up any trash and cleaner and Bingo, so far so good. After thinking more about the strainer, I should have left it off and allowed the primary filter to catch the trash. It's much easier to change than draining the tank and removing the shutoff valve to get to the strainer. I hope this helps someone else.
I've not changed the one on the old 4000 I bought for bush hogging and seldom use , but it's nice to know the symptoms and how to change it out when it needs one. thx
On my kubota it was low power and blowing white smoke out the exhaust and the mechanic on the phone said that meant it was starved for fuel. I changed it and got 100%
great... got a skid steer that runs ok then after a minute starts bogging and rpm goes down.. sometimes stops ... cranked up the throttle and usually runs at 2300+rpm.. then drops to 1500 rpm erratic up and down... checked all fluids topped up.. before this started i put in some diesel engine treatment then the issues began... i drained the tank ran it dry and guess i know i got air in the system... going out in a bit to bleed the fuel system... and check the fuel cap .. u made a good video two thumbs up ...
Nope, you have to crack the injector supply lines open to bleed the injection pump. You should make some videos. It helped me get some projects done. I'm a big time procrastinator!
That fuel filter had been on there probably 4 yrs. I usually change them every other year as routine maintenance but I wanted to show what happens when one clogs.
If its really cold it could gel. If its old fuel, I'd definitely blow those lines out. All the plastic fuel lines I've seen have been hard. I think it may be the type of plastic used.
thank you for the videos. I have a 3930...my first tractor ever. I am not mechanically inclined so thanks again for the videos. Question for you...what is the easiest way to drain the gas. I accidentally got water in the tank. I haven't started it up...so I think draining the gas should do.
+Austin W You're welcome! I'd break the fuel line loose at the filter and let it drain out. Once it's drained out, you can unscrew the shutoff valve and check the strainer in the tank.
No problems with mine. Does the alternator have an external regulator? If so, it may need to be excited. I had that issue with the Ford 3000 but it has a generator. If not, check all the wire ends to be sure they're good.
has anyone heard of diesel gelling in a motor? just wondering because im trying to clean my old tractor motor out and im just wondering if i need to take all of the fuel lines off and clean them if it does. and just wondering but are plastic fuel lines suppost to be really hard?
I their I have a 1951 ford 8n 4 cyl gas tractor. I am having problems with the 3 point not staying in the up position while driving the tractor. Their is a box scrapper attached to the 3 point hitch, the hydraulic lever is raised in the up position, but implement still goes down while driving the tractor. what could this be? thank you.
To be honest w-out it being in front of me idk.. I know its just like your 3930 just with a turbo.. Had it rebuilt by a shop i have had good sucess with but put er back on and still no charge.. I will check tomorrow about the external regulator, thanks for the reply..
my filter is in 3 parts. 1 steel base,2 glass bowel, 3 filter.Is there a rubber ring between all 3 parts.Its a M.F 698.Thanks for vidio.See ground conditions very dry over there not like Ireland.Muck up to our ears
Oh that's right,When I use to mow the road sides I ran a Ford 7700 and I use to have to crack the injectors once in awhile.But it was yellow,and I've always vowed never to buy nothing yellow,cause that spells a lemon.
ok thanks... Im sure that it diddent gel because #1 theres no diesel in the tank lol just found that out. And here in Texas... yeah it doesn't get cold at all.That solves alot of problems that dont have to worry about. And the reason i asked about the plastic lines is because ive worked on sports bikes and some of the fuel lines are bendy like. well tommorw afternoon im working with the air compessor. yay XD
Thanks. Have you ever replaced the seals in fuel injector pump? Mine is leaking. I'm assuming replacing all the seals that come in the kit, and then bleed the air out.? Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
I've never messed with an injector pump. I'll assume that once all the seals are replaced you'll have to bleed the injectors to get fuel to them just like when you run out of fuel.
You ever have an issue with the charging system on this tractor? My 4630 alternator checks out good but still no charge to the battery... Any thoughts?? Idk if its a short some where or what but its driving me crazy..
+farmboy30117 Your video is great, but my knowledge level is not where yours is. Do you suppose we could talk over the phone? I have some questions related to my 1965 Ford 4400. I just replaced the dual fuel filter with a single filter housing and think I might not have the directional arrows from the filter housing going to the right place on the injection pump. My injection pump looks a lot like yours. Which is the inlet, the one on the side or the one towards the gas tank? Also, I read somewhere the injector pump holds oil. Is there a level plug on the pump? How do I know if the oil level in the pump is OK? It has always run good and started easy. This started when I replaced the leaking diesel fuel tank with a new aftermarket. The threads in the dual filter housing were shot because someone has used a pipe thread hose barb. My email I see each day is twb60@yahoo.com. Thanks - T Byrd
I've never heard of the fuel pump holding oil. It is gear driven off the timing gears but I don't think it holds oil. All you need is a line coming from the tank going to the filter at a "in" port and a line coming off the filter to the pump in an "out" port. If needed, I can make a video showing how ours is plumbed.
+farmboy30117 I am good on from the fuel tank petcock to the "in" port on fuel filter housing, but the fuel filter outlet has 2 lines. One line goes out and the other back in. The line coming out of the filter housing goes to which of the injector pump locations, the one on the side of the pump or the one on the rear (rear meaning the end of the injector pump towards the fuel filter. Mine has flexible fuel hose for a section between the filter housing and pump and I could have gotten those 2 lines crossed. If I am feeding the pump at the pump outlet, it will never prime. Looking at yours in these video, I think I did cross the lines.
Hey I have a ford 545d tractor changed fuel filters didn't do the bleed screw now I have air in the lines tries cracking the injectors can't get any fuel to come out it will hit when I do the bleed screw but just for a second any advise
Hard to tell without seeing it, but if you've got fuel in the filters, try cracking open the little screw on the side of the fuel pump. Should see fuel come out. This will let you know if you've got fuel to the pump. Once you have fuel to the pump, you should have fuel and air coming from injector line while cranking. Keep bleeding the injector lines until mostly fuel then tighten them down. Hope this helps.
My Ford 4000 loses fuel prime if it sets for a week or so. Eventually I can get it going by repriming it, but it loses its prime after about an hour of operation. Then I have to start all over again. There seems to be air getting in somewhere because when I open the screw on the injector pump there is some air in the fule there and when I pump the reprime pump below the injector pump there is air there. Of course there is no fuel at the injectors on the head themselves until I get the air out of the system thru the button pump. Just before the engine quits it accelerates like it got a rick mixture or some more fuel and then it starts sputtering. Ideas?
Sounds like you're getting air in the system between the tank and the injector pump. Could be a bad filter or filter housing letting air in the suction side of the filter.
@@farmboy30117 The suction side is after the filer and on the injector side corect? FIlter was changed last year less than 50 hrs ago and has run good since then. Does the surge in RPM's right before it cuts out mean anything?
How do you get the orange housing off to remove the fuel tank? We have changed fuel filters twice, fuel pump once, and have no other options except to get the tank off and try to see inside that. The Kubota dealership two years ago had it in, charged 800 dollars and the same problem existed after we got it back.
There is a lot involved in removing the tank. I would suggest siphoning the fuel out of the tank and unscrewing the petcock. There is a screen inside that's probably clogged. Once you get it off, flush out the tank with fuel to get any loose rust out. I left the screen off on my Ford 3000 because it kept clogging. Now I just let the filter catch it.
Hey farmboy I bought a Ford 2000 today and when I got it home and started it , it started smoking a bit from the exhaust and then surged and quit. It never started again. Maybe the same problem as yours? Did yours smoke?
Nice upload - thanks - looks almost the same on a Ford 4100. But next time please put something underneath to catch the fuel when removing the filter. Not so great with all that fuel on the ground :-(
Nah, these kids that are taking engineering have to make their mark reinventing the square wheel. Anybody designing anything but spin on should get a "F" and be booted from the class and told find another profession.
Just did that on a 655c backhoe and imagine the Donaldson filter was made in Saudi Arabia. Too late too change. I thought they only made terrorists. Main thing is why didn't you clean out that sediment trap? Looked terrible dirty. If your going to tear into the fuel assembly, drop that glass bowl and show folks how to put it back in. My assembly has a priming pump, but otherwise its the same for most all for backhoes up to the New Hollands from Italy.
I open mine every 200 hours or so and find a lot of slime. I reuse the gaskets [not o-rings - square profile] so far for about 3,000 hours and they are fine.
Actually, to correct myself it's more for a water trap, but collects dirt too. Opening the bottom drain every few tank fulls usually show quite a bit of water. I just bought that glass bowl on ebay for like 4$, but no gaskets
Thanks for the info! I assumed it would use the same gaskets as the fuel filters since it's basically the same housing. I never thought about it being a water trap. I'll definitely clean it this spring before hay season!
Hi! Cool video. We have a Fordson Dexta tractor that has a fuel filter housing that looks like the picture I put on Picpaste.com. Could you please look at it and tell me what the bolts are on top. One is marked "OUT" but the other one isn't marked. We think the center bolt is the bolt you unscrew to take off the fuel filter housing, yes? picpaste.com/9_fuel_filter-oisyONd8.JPG We have the Fordson Dexta service manual (it's free on the internet) but it shows a different type of fuel filter housing, one with a bolt on the bottom, not the top, and the bleed bolts are in different positions. Thank you for any help. Sincerely, kl
The center bolt holds the housing on. The other two appear to be bleeders. Maybe one is for the inlet and the other for the outlet. Not sure why it'd have two bleeders.
Yes, the center screw is the bleeder. The two other bolts hold the sediment cup and filter. Drop the sediment cup and clean that too. Some have bleeder screws on the injection pump and others have primer pumps.
1971 ford 3000.trouble started when i replaced with napa filter.thought pump was bad.took injectors and pump to shop to get built.$850.still got trouble.bleeding.fuel to filter,nothing coming out bleeder on top.so i take base off.can't figure out how it works.arrows on top.I NOTICED NO HOLES IN TOP OF FILTER.dam it napa.this video shows same filter with 4 slots cut to let fuel in to be filtered.i see another brand on line that has round holes in top.my napa filter has none.screwed again by free trade act.china or mexico idiots can't do nothing right.
