This video shows how to inspect and replace the fuse in the Truma combi system for the 240v supply to the elements uksitefinder.co.uk/ Truma manual truma.net/support-and-resourc...
Hi and thanks for sharing the detailed diagnosis vid. My heater elements were open circuit so changed them out from a company called Thermo Technica (great service BTW) and tested them before putting them in and got 58 ohms so just putting the info here so others might use it to test and replace their elements. Top job and thanks again for doing the vid helped me out 👍🏻👍🏻
Mate, you're an absolute legend. Currently away in our caravan and discovered we have no heat or hot water. It's forecast to be 0c overnight, so very relieved to find your video and rectify the problem. Many thanks 😊
Thats great Tony, glade it got you out of trouble. 0 deg with no heating is no joke, would have been a hard job doing this whilst on holiday so well done.😄
Nice video, logical step by step fault finding. There's nothing wrong with my Truma (yet) but have ordered fuses and now know a bit more about the unit. Thanks
Thanks, hopefully you don't have any issues. Since changing the fuse the unit was all ok, so shown no unit fault as such more an issue with the fuse they used and location of the fuse.
Hi. Thanks for the video. Used it to change fuze yesterday worked a treat. I think the comment at doing it in situ is worth considering, but balanced against space and risk of inadvertment damage. Ta for the info. Joe
Hi joe, thanks for the comments. I agree doing this in situ knowing where the fuse is and and that it is only the fuse that needs replacing would be advisable. When I was doing this there was no info online to say where this fuse was exactly and I also needed to check out all the other components to ensure the fuse was not blowing due to an electrical fault. 6 months on and still working all ok so i still believe this is an underrated fuse for the startup currents induced when the elements are cold.
Just had the same lcd fault code and flash code saying the same. With the help of your video I’ve removed the Combi 4e and tested the 240 v fuse. It had blown. Installed new fuse from eBay now reinstalled Combi and all works. Thanks for your video 😊
So greatful for this video. I buy a $45,000 airstream basecamp partially because I thought if I bought the best it would be less worries and less repairs!!! Boy was I wrong, I have had this in for many repairs, most trivial but regardless. 2 weeks after I bought it they had to put and entire new wiring harness on it! Unfortunately the truma 2 year warranty just expired! Went to the dealer yesterday and they can’t get me in until May 17th !!! I thought it would be the reset but it’s appearing to be that same fuse! You think your area was tight?! Holy crap mine is cramped in this tiny area, the couch framing will need removed to get the truma out. Fun project ahead.
I have herd of a few vans with very tight areas. hope you get it sorted. Amazing how many people have this issue, its been a few years now since i did this blog. As for the heater it was any house hold convector heater. I am in UK so any 240v one we have one on every van we had as a backup when on electric hook up and much better quieter at night to leave on tick over. puss your not burning your own gas
Great video, my unit is in back to front so i have better access to the front panel but am unable to test for power to the heating elements without removing the whole unit, A job for a rainy day i think.. Thanks for posting this.
Hi Steve, if you have access to the fuse and it has blown, I would try changing this first before removing the unit to test elements, chances are the elements are all ok and the new fuse will not blow, this is standard practice to replace the fuse and see if it blows again.
Hi, I have an Autotrail V-Line 635SE Van with this system, I have been told that If you start your van up with the truma panel on it could/would blow the ceramic 10a 240 volt fuse, a few people on the V-line facebook site have reported this, fortunately mine is ok but I am glad of the warning. As an ex engineer myself this seems like a bad design fault or even thermistor problem as you pointed out. Excellent review by the way, nice to know there are people like you willing to help others out of difficulties. I used to build valve amps also,utilise them as a musician also. All the best . Bill
H, I mate thanks for the comment. Not sure how true the comments about turning on the engine with the Truma panel on. You would have to still have the 240v connection connected to blow the fuse. When the engine is turned on there may be a short interruption of the 240v supply but this should not blow a fuse. I agree this is a poor design. I believe this was an EU requirement to have this fuse in place and it was probably an afterthought of where to install it. If you have worked on valve amps then you will understand the inrush current on capacitors which is similar to the heater elements when cold. I expect this is the reason for the inrush resistor. I expect the fuse is underrated for the inrush current, since changing the fuse we had no further issues. Still got my stereo valve amp running, like the sound and the warm glow of the valves. 😎
I have had a W45H error for ages now in a Benimar Mileo 323 omg cant even get into the system to try a reset its fitted in such a way its virtually impossible to get to. Thanks for your video. Very informative 🙏🏻 Been using oil heaters until I can find someone to do the work.
is there any way you can remove the side cover leaving the heater unit in place so you can get to the fuse part. Been nearly a year now with no further fuse blown so from an electrical engineers prospective this is a design fault, so replacing the fuse is ok
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Thank you for your reply 🙏🏻. Your video has made me make contact with a local Motorhome technician I can now explain exactly what I need him to do and check for, this will speed things up considerably. I am not experienced in electrical work at all but get very frustrated when I can even get to the thing that needs looking at. Your switch box also looks so easy to get to and see what happening. Omg mine you have to stand on your head holding a torch in your mouth. Bad design all round. Happy New Year 2021 to you and your family and subscribers. Let us all celebrate our freedoms in our vans!! Its why I am getting mine ready 🙏🏻🎯 🥂
Thanks, mate. Our elecricity feed failed when we were away and I'm hoping that it's just the fuse. What a pain though: having to remove the heater to change a fuse! Ours is even less accessible than yours (also a Swift but a PVC). Wish me luck. I am qualified luckily.
Good luck, it may be possible to get to the fuse with a mirror and small hands. I have a new problem now will the electrics shutting down which i believe is the Solar controller. Lot Crap fitted by Swift, would not recommend them.
Awesome video, thanks. Going to attempt this week. I dont suppose you've done a video showing where the water temperature sensor.goes, have you? ((I've had a bit of a mare, first inhad the 240v issue, then switching to gas ran fine for a couple of days, before only running for a few mins every hour, symptoms are supposedly a temp sensor failure, so ive ordered the slow blow fuses and a temp sensor, now I'm back home I'm planning to try and replace both!)
Sorry I did not have to change the thermostate switch but for electric this is the one with the red button in the middle and all cables attached but I do not believe this is connected the the electronics card so maynot be the fault you are looking for, good luck with this
On my a Swift 584 I didn't need to remove the boiler to check the 240 volt fuse. The cover can be removed in situ. Looking at your arrangement you should have been able to remove the cover as well which saves a lot of hassle. A mirror helps once the cover is off so you can see the board on which the 240V fuse is located.
Hi Mike, agree if you know where the fuse is and that it is the fuse then you can do this in situ. Problem I had was I only new it was not working, could be thermo switch defective, burnt out relays or elements gone which is why i removed the unit to test it.
Great informative video, just in the process of connecting up our Truma Combi 4(E), I see you have the Sargent box in place I just wondered what size fuses are used for the 12v control on the Truma, the 12v supply to the control panel (I think the manual says 1A) and the MCB for the 230v supply? Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry we have sold this van now why do you need these ratings would they not be specified on your van fuses etc. If any of these you will have different fault conditions
Nice one. Our electric heating doesn't seem to be heating up fully. I measured the current and its only 4 amps. I'm on el2 and asking for plenty heat. So I'm going to have to take the unit out like your self and see if it an element problem or control relay/board not switching ie 110v or 240v. Cheers for the video.
thanks for this mate, very kind of you to document and share. I'm going to try the 10amp replacement today. Always wondered about EL1 vs EL2; I presume EL2 gives more overall power in your van if you're running high amp stuff like heaters, toasters, kettles etc? I'm wondering if a surge caused by such plugins perhaps caused a blow. Maybe I had EL1 on at the time...who knows
Thanks for comments. If you are running other appliances whilst having the boiler on electric this will not have any effect on the fuse within the boiler PCB. I do think this is a surge problem when first switching on the water boiler. EL1 is low wattage and EL2 is sull power wattage, I expect turning on EL2 causes an inrush current through the fuse whilst the elements heat up and get higher resistance, over time this causes the fuse to rupture. There is an inrush resistor on the PCB but this may not be enough. Best practice will be to turn on EL1 first then EL2 a min later when EL1 element has heated up.
Thank you for the video. I have had so many issues with this system. Why would they put such a cheap element in such a crap spot. $2 and hours of work pulling it out.
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures now I have done a reset on the screen and all symbols have disappeared apart from the spanner and clock and I can not find an answer anywhere. All I want to do is test it hahah.
Ive just tried this on a friends caravan and the fuse was ok how do you remove the main live wires going to the pcb as i have no plug on my mains its wired straight into the fuse box
Hi thanks for providing this video, I’m working on mine to try and find the reason for my E87h code it ran yesterday but error e87h came up again, I’ve checked my heating elements with my tester for continuity but my buzzer doesn’t at all….suggesting no continuity, however I get a reading of 87 ohms. Can’t you tell me if you would consider the elements good or bad? Sorry for the long post.
Not sure what the E87 code is. Elements are normally 5 to 30 ohms. If they fail they normally fail open circuit (high resistance) your meter on bleep may not work at 80+ ohms. Is the fuse OK. It's difficult to say what to test next due to your electrical experience which I do not know. I would check resistance between element and out shell should be high. Then all connecting for security. Then I would liven it up and see if you have 240v at different point. Input. Fuse elements etc. But be warned this is lethal voltage at this point
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures well I much appreciate your reply, the E87h code relates to voltage issues, that’s all the Truma info you get🙄..yes fuse is fine, I’ve just tested again and it’s reading 99 ohms so that seems very high compared to the 5-30 you refer to. My electrical experience is Ltd to be fair, but thanks for the guidance, I doubt I’ll go down that road, it’s irritating because the boiler runs fine fine for ages -6hours yesterday…the bam…error code, I’m going to purchase a new boiler, if I choose to repair it, it could cost a lot and it’s still 6 years old..not old at all but I need a reliable boiler.
Hi there, I have a 120V Truma Combi eco plus (ca. 2021 model) and accidentally hooked up the coach to an incorrectly wired 30A outlet. The Truma's main fuse blew, and it's a ceramic T15AH slow-blow type on this model. I was able to remove it and replace it with an equivalent fuse, but even if I run the generator in the coach now, the fuse still blows as soon as the transfer switch cuts over. Is there anything else in the Truma unit that could have been fried when the fuse first blew that would cause it to continue to blow whenever 120V power is applied? Thank you for any hints, and I appreciate that your video showed me that I'm on the right track.
@@zackp.8206 hey there - unfortunately it’s still not fixed. I have an appointment with the RV dealer in a couple of weeks, and I hope they can figure it out. I’m not super hopeful since everything is packed in so tightly that it may be really expensive to pull it all apart and check the unit and the wiring leading to it. But who knows, maybe I’ll get lucky! I can report back here once I get a diagnosis.
@@greglarkin I'm no electrician, but I believe the formula for power is P = E x I. Meaning when the voltage is reduced by half (240v - 120v) the amperage would double (10A - 20A). If that is the case 15A may not be enough. There are a lot of very intelligent people on here, perhaps one of them can help us out. I'd be interested to learn what the dealer finds. Wishing you luck!
I have Truma D6E, and when I connected the van EHU to my home 240v to recharge leisure batteries, I noticed a W255 H code popped up on the Truma display. It disappeared after a couple of seconds, but I disconnected the EHU becuase I got nervous. I also noticed that the electric plug icon disappeared from the Truma display when the EHU was connected. Any ideas?
Sorry been a while so cant remember. I do think with a little patience and good mirror you could probably remove the panel in situ and replace the fuse. Would have been nice if the manufacturer put a proper external fuse holder in seeing as this is a very common issue
Hi there great video I have the same fault I followed your checklist and my fuse was intact but wasn’t a time delay fuse just a normal fuse? I fitted a new time delay fuse anyway but still no 240v can you advise thanks
First before any testing you need to be careful and a competent person as this is lethal voltage. If you are happy with the testing then I assume you have a meter and have tested there is no 240v going into the unit at the bottom terminal. If you have 240v coming in then with the unit switched on and fuse all ok are you getting any voltage on the elements. If not then it will be a PCB fault. Could be one of the diodes or relay. Not sure I can advice further as this will mean component changing
At about 1:54 in the vlog I show the 240v connection, you can test this for 240V input if you have a meter. as for MCB/RCD if the RCD had tripped you will loose all 240V supply, find the 240v consumer unit and check nothing has tripped this will not be the sargent box
We only used a 2kw which will easily heat up the van, its a relatively small area and I find the convectors are safe to leave on all night so they kick in/out with no noise. Best thing we fitted and need to fit one to our new van
my brothers got the same problem seems again seems to run for a year or so then come back have you considered putting a re settable CB in so to save having to remove it every time
It would be possible if you could get a 10A with surge protection on it. alternative would be to relocate the fuse into a fuse holder wich can be eaily accessed from out side and use same fuses as they are not to expensive
This is a good idea, fitting a remote fuse. Mine went again at the end of last season, just changing it again now (although I think it was definitely my fault, I have an EV and charged it from inside the caravan, as per site rules, need to lower the charge rate next time - I've been told that the fuse blows on busy campsites when there's a large number of people using hookups - amps rise, voltage lowers (or the other way around) and pops the fuse, same as plugging an EV in.
@@stuff7442 If the supply voltage decreases due to demand and voltage drop, then the current may increase if the wattage stays the same. However, this will only occur if the supply can accommodate the increased demand. For example, a 250V 1000 Watt device will draw 4 Amps, whereas the same device operating at 200V will draw 5 Amps. If your circuit breaker is tripping or the fuse is blowing regularly, such as once a year, there may be an issue with your PCB board or its components. The PCB board typically includes a surge protection resistor to limit the current during startup, as the elements have low resistance until they heat up. If this resistor is failing, the fuse will blow. Similarly, the elements themselves are serviceable parts that degrade over time, resulting in increased current draw during startup, leading to blown fuses. If you're experiencing frequent tripping, it's advisable to consider replacing the elements to err on the side of safety.
Ps. Think one of my electric water heating elements has gone seams to take for ever to heat water , I’ll test them for continuity also ohms what should the ohms read, did you say 30.
ohms on heater elements will be low when cold and go high when heating up. If the elements are all ok it may be the control board as it switches heat from different wattage depending on what you select on the control panel. I believe EL1 will be half the wattage to EL2. Been long time since i worked on this so cannot be 100% sure.
Hi I have thus problem I have changed the 1st fuse I will put a picture on. Could you possibly send me a link to so I could buy the ither fuse via ebay or amazon please
have a 2019 benimar mileo 282, error code W407H coming up, changed fise reset but no joy so do you think same problem ? dealers who do the service dont seem to wont to get involved the dealership i bought from is the other side of the country, any help would be appreciated
Hi, the 407 code means no 240v mains getting into the heater so this is the same as the 45 code. If you have replaced the fuse and it is still ok (not blown) then you will need to check there is 240v getting into the heated. Check the heater element overheat protection has not tripped. Try resetting this. If you have 240v at the heater terminal (no external MCB's tripped) and no internal fuses blown, then you will need to continuity test the board. It maybe a relay or diode not working. Remember this is 240V lethal voltage, I do not know your electrical knowledge so be careful, this sort of work should always be done by a competent person
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures cheers pal i work in the building trade so basic knowledge of sparking that and gas i keep away from, few things no the vehicle is parked up so no 240 v connected, emptied the boiler ,just turned on with power from leisure battery, so i would need to connect to mains ? just a point this fault code came about at site the hook up kept tripping then i discovered the fault always weary of electrics, past experiences lol
Yes 240v needs to be connected and boiler filled up to see if this code still comes on. Try turning the boiler on, if it trips out the electrics when boiler is on then there is a high chance one of the heater elements has gone short circuit to earth. These elements are a service part so not covered under any warranty. They are low resistance but not zero between each element terminal as I show in the Vlog and very high resistance between any terminal and the body work. Will probably need to megga this but it may show up under continuity testing.
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures must appreciated pal, ill fill up the water tank and connect to mains see if that fettles it but thank you again electrics after all these years confuse me all the best pal thanks again
Hi DelBurn, check out this link below. Not fully conclusive but from what I have read this is either a lock up with the programming so disconnecting the heater for a min will allow all the capacitors to discharge and reset any code. or a fault on the main card. See if you can disconnect all the 12 v cables and the network cable. Label all up so you know where they go back then reconnect after a min. also check what LED's are showing on the main card. www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/104160-truma-combi-control-panel/
I would also send an email to Truma as like you say this code is not given a reason in any of there guides. There must be a reason for the fault code so would be nice to know what it is
its possible a thermostat if defective within the unit or an element is open circuit. Does it heat up to 60 on gas. This will at least eliminate the gas part
Same problem on my 2015 Coachman... What a ball ache... What idiot designed this heater where the fuse is so difficult to access?... Shame on you Truma... Great video otherwise... Thanks
Yes it is a very bad design. I think it was some regulation brought in to ruse on the PCB but they could have done an external fuse holder, most manufacturers do this fuse on the PCB its some times reason why TV etc stop working and people throw them away
Sorry for the late reply just noticed your comment, The URL below I believe these are the fuses just check the dimentions as I do not have them anymore or search on ebay T10A fuses. They need to be 10A and T rated www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333115942868?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Mg661JBrToG&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=tIPYf_u_Ruy&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
