***This video was filmed the same weekend as Episode 1 so we haven't had the chance to address the problems with the oiling system yet or the comments and suggestions from last video. Episode 3 we will get it all fixed up but we wanted to show you the progress we made before we had to head back to college. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for episode 3!
For the turbo, I noticed that the wastegate is blown open at about the same pressure as with the feed line on my kart. Which is at about 6.3 to 6.5 psi of boost.
@@thisislargemouth5566 i think the k.i.s.s(keep it stupid simple) approach works better.. but what do i know im just a seasoned mechanic. You know, work smarter not harder.
@@drgibs347 I meant could by the way. also, a spacer is very simple in my opinion. Then again, what do I know? I just run a small engine repair shop. There's several ways to skin a cat my friend, no need to hurt yourself stepping off of that high horse.
Turbo has built in waste gate, if they ran a fitting into the carge pipe it'd work properly. Granted a spacer would make for better fuel and air mixture when hitting the turbine
@@johnrodknock954 there was a brass fitting on side of turbo that had a vacuum line that goes to the wastgate actuator. i.e. positive pressure side of turbo, which connects to the charge pipe. They disconnected it because the carb wouldn't clear the fitting/vacuum line. Which disables the wastgate. Thus the suggestion for the spacer to allow clearance and actually be able to use the wastgate.
@Heads Mess why? Depends... You want to have a way to control boost or just see max boost you can make and roll the dice how long the rotary will last.
Run two stroke oil in the gas, your apex seals will love you for it. Check RX7 sites to see if there is a recommend ratio, but you'll also likely to need just a hair bigger jet to compensate.
Or mount the carburetor to the intake pipe! That would have made the throttle response better and would not have been putting gas all over the insides of the turbo.
@@zeanyt2372 im sure they just want it to run right now, they can work on the technicalities afterwards. Noone wants to go through the trouble of an engine not starting after working through all the steps in theory
You will need to "boost reference" your fuel tank so your fuel pressure increase as boost increases, assuming it makes any. Simply tap your boost pipe and feed back to fuel tank. Also you will need to use a one way valve for your fuel tank vent. Good luck, neat build! And you might want to reconsider hooking up the wastegate, you can use the same line.
And mosr people blow out turbo oil seals . All you need is a fatter drain hose fitting. Usually turbos can handle plenty of oil pumping into its bearings but when it cant drain fast enough it leaks past the seals. Its harder on your oil pump and gaskets/seals when you restrict the pressure side. Have fun !👍🏻
I have to be honest guys that sounds freaking awesome, now all I hope is that it the goes as well as it sounds. Good luck guys, I’m hoping that the recommendations others have given help you get this sorted but for me I would want the boost pipe to be metal and fuel resistant silicone couplers art both ends.
First Comment; College is cool- your YT series after that might be designing high efficiency small vehicles to explore the Moon or Mars, Second; same as the first! Third Comment; rotate the turbo, where it sits, about 30 or so degrees clockwise as you look down on it- it should help clear the riders position- then a nice rigid elbow to put the air cleaner just below the tank top. And get those degrees!
Boost gauge could be fairly easy, another metal pipe in the charge pipe with a fitting in it. Only have to cut a small section of rubber hose out to put it in. Just a thought, this is cool!
I feel like the fuel is going to pool in that "charge pipe" and cause oil starvation problems. Which could also lead to problems with fuel eating away at the rubber.
Well Done! I got km24 going to build it into a power wheels body. Your video was very helpful. My input for your build, try putting the turbo on the boosted side of the turbo. Less distance for the fuel to travel.
You guys need to have it so the charbi is blow through, just so its easier to run and so you guys can run the waste gate, you could weld the waste gate open just a little so it free boosts but i wouldnt recommend, can boost creep and blow apex seals if done wrong, plus if its turbo, you guys could run a screamer pipe on it and put a long metal tube on the inlet of the turbo for maximum "dose" / turbo flutter 🤷🏽♂️ just a suggestion boys 🤙🏽
you need a throttle body AFTER the turbo. If the turbo inlet sees vacuum you'll pull oil out of it's core and it'll go into the intake. The carb has to be before the turbo, otherwise boost will lean it out. Basically you need to not use the pre turbo carb throttle, and instead add another one after. Take the hose off and inspect it for oil if you wanna see for yourselves. Awesome work otherwise, you guys are awesome! :D
@@bryduhbikeguy it's kind of a 2 stroke. If oil is just being sucked out of the turbo then there's no metering. If you snap the throttle shut at high RPM you might hydro lock the engine with oil. Come to think of it, the intake hose might collapse first and just stall the engine. Hard to know which is more likely without testing
Dude, u’ve gotten the turbo oil feed and drain backwards, the threaded smaller port is oil inlet and the big port with flange is the outlet, try clock the core 180 degrees. This definitely helped me with my turbo leaking a lot of oil, but my turbo stops spinning when I turn on the oil pump, and it still leaks a small bit...
You guys should make a small little intake manifold maybe make a little elbow so that you can hook up the waste gate and get the air filter out of the way so it doesn't stick straight out
Keep an eye on that boost hose. My concern is that fuel could collect in the hose, It could collect enough in there to randomly hydrolock the engine. You should try mounting the turbo closer to the intake port, could keep the turbo cooler and prolong its life.
The charge pipe needs to be metal so it doesn't break down from fuel residue, but it also needs to be a straight downward shot from turbo outlet to intake port with a bypass valve (like a BOV) connecting the turbo outlet to the turbo inlet to regulate the boost pressure. Boosting a carb engine is difficult and this is a draw-through so hopefully their turbo is one with carbon seals, else it'll end up breaking. Edit: Clarified which outlet and inlet I was talking about XD
Add a petcock at the back of the fuel tank and run a hose from it T'd in with the existing hose. That will solve your fuel issues while the front end is up.
You guys can weld so a nice steel charge pipe would work a treat! Looks awesome as is already though. I would turn the little carb adapter back the other way and route the boost pipe over the top with a 180 to the intake port. having the boost pipe in between the chain will be such a ball ache.
Now it just needs some castor and e85 and she’ll smell even better 😍👌 should weld the flap of the waste and mount an external wastegate on the exhaust housing and run a screamer pipe 😝
It will get puddling in the charge pipe, every draw-through turbo system has that problem if the charge pipe goes upwards too far. It has to be as short as possible, made of metal that won't break down like rubber does with fuel residue from the air-fuel mixture, and it must slope down from the compressor outlet to the intake port. Plus, a rubber charge pipe will just expand from the air pressure and lose some boost and some throttle response.
Team booted bought a one rotor kit. It’s used the front iron and rear 13b iron and rotor and it’s a single Eshaft it’s so cool. I’m sure you guys can put it in something cool like a bigger go kart.
Coming along nicely boys. I think you should by some plastic plugs for the front of the seat frame and definitely chrome the pull start and fan shroud. I would just hi heat spray the rest of the engine black but that's on you. I bet you some braided hose would look amazing on your turbo.
If you are gone run it draw through you should instead use a cv carburetor (24mm cvk?) and remove the throttle plate in it and instead use some sort of throttle plate or slide on the positive pressure side, that way you don't ruin the turbo seals when off the throttle and the turbo would last a lot longer.
still got the feed and return oil pipes backwards dude.. wont smoke like f if you fit the turbo correctly LOL also, that port doesnt line up when you flip the manifold over.
Why not a blow through? I’m planning to pressurize my Mikuni’s bowl with the waste gate pressure pipe on the turbo, and plug some holes on the carb it self
