We had such a car in the service, checked the wiring, cleaned the valve in an ultrasonic bath, connected the oscilloscope to the valve terminals, made sure that there was a PWM signal, opened the ECM unit and re-soldered the driver with the key of this valve to new ones, but error 612D did not disappear. 2 days wasted
Hi peppermint, does volvo sell the O-ring that goes between the solenoid and the VVT casing? I bought 2 from the junkyard but I want to clean them with brake clean before I install them on my t5. I cannot find the O-ring, I can only find the green gasket that goes between the casing and the valve cover. Also I have a car with the old wiring so I need to update the connector, do you happen to know what wire goes to what because they are both green and white.
I no longer have the solenoids to check for the wiring, I suggest asking on forums such as Matthews or the UK one, it was a rather common question. For the seal I would think Volvo doesn't sell it separately, may try to gently remove and reuse yours - just undo to small torx screw to separate the solenoid.
@@Peppermint1 thanks, I’ll check forums. Everybody told me to upgrade the connector to the new style and upgrade the gasket to the one with a mesh, my 01 t5 exhaust solenoid is going bad so I bought a solenoid from a 06, gonna update the gasket and connector hopefully it solves my vvt code and my weird engine rpm at idle. I’m gonna clean the one I got from the junkyard first. Maybe I’ll just clean it without opening the torx, you think brake clean will damage anything?
I get P0075 error, which goes away after the car haven't been driven for a while, but after it gets warm, it turns back. I cleaned the solenoid with throttle cleaner, It was OK for a little, but then the error came back, just the period was longer this time.
VVT solenoid codes may also come if the VVT hub was not pre-tensioned. When you look at the hub from the side (pop the cover), the three securing bolts must be close to the middle of their groove. I should upload a video this summer with how to pretension the VVT hubs after a tbelt change
Do you know the difference between this solenoid for the Non turbo engines and the one from the intake side of turbo engines? I am about to replace mine with one from a turbo model.
They are the same. The part number may differ, but the intake on the non turbo is the same with the intake on the turbo and the electrical connectors are the same. If fact, I've even used an exhaust one from the turbo engine, on the intake on my turbo engine, I just had to modify a little the connector because the connectors for intake and exhaust are different. Talking about these solenoids, they activate the intake hub (also the exhaust on turbo) which changes the angle of the cam (timing). I think one of the less know problems on these engines is that when the engine is never driven past 3500 rpm, the hub advance doesn't change and in time the oil sits inside the hub and gets sludge and prevents the hub from changing the timing properly (same will also happen if the oil changes are neglected). The result of this is a serious engine power lack and also a drop in mpg. I am investigating this at the present time, I will upload a video with the way the intake hub works on these cars, if I manage to disassemble one at the junk yard. Yet another issue with the non turbos is the intake air thermostat, not sure if I've already mentioned this to you ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gOx3Q8vqoz4.html
About the intake air thermostat yes, I know it from your videos and commented how I used a turbo inlet before the air filter box. I didn't know that even an exhaust solenoid can be used on the intake, that is interesting! Are you sure about those rpms? I've seen this number before, but I also read somewhere, that the vvt activates not only then! As for the hub, when changing my tensioner pulleys, I found out that it does not move so easily. May be a way to break the sludge a little is by moving the mechanism with the belt removed.
Also for the hubs. It will be good if you can examine one. Mine is running a bit to the outside of the engine (belt is on the edge) and may be I will need a "new" one soon.
The hub movement (without the belt on) is exactly what I want to investigate at the junk yard. I already rotate the exhaust one on an engine and it was moving a lot almost freely (although at some point it was feeling like it was touching the valves). I would not try however this on my own car, at least not before I learn correctly how this thing works. As for the timing change, that is a very good question. I know that around 3500rpm there is a tonality change in the engine. But it is actually very possible that the timing is actually changing continuously. It is exactly this I want to find out, especially after watching this video at 2:20 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-glUXDMuQ3Bs.html and this as well ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mF5Ns8_9MeE.html If there's sludge inside the hub, it will certainly prevent it from rotating at it should during acceleration.
It is true that these hubs can develop a 'side' movement (can be checked with the belt removed), I think even when new they have a bit of movement, but that's not really a problem unless there is a lot of movement (1/4in or so). The belt running 'on the edge' is caused by the tensioner. I had my belt running near the left edge and also 'wobbling' on the cam pulleys (moving left-right), everything was fixed with a new tensioner and now the belt runs almost in the middle without any wobbling (yes, I know, these tensioners again, they give quite a bit of trouble).
Hi there, I'd say it's not worth trying to clean them. Usually what happens is oil change is neglected and builds up varnish on the tiny bushings deep inside the solenoid. The problem is it is not possible to have any fluid penetrate inside and reach these small bushings to clean them, even if you soak it for long time. If it doesn't move easily, better to replace it. I've also tried to open one to access the bushings but it does not work (some people do open the transmission solenoids, but this vvt solenoid is different)
@@Peppermint1 OK. Thanks. We used the wrong oil for two oil changes. now we have P0015 code even after two proper oil changes. I was worried that a new VVT would get gummed up too. If that is even the problem. I will get an OEM part and change it anyway. Thanks again.
