VW T4: 2.5L no start / no spark (part 1) 

It's nice when things are kept similar.

Let me know what you end up finding!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

I'm actually waiting for someone to tell me that I'm doing something wrong! Bet there are a lot of things that I have learned or been taught (by the oldtimers) that are NOT the right thing to do. Hasn't gotten me into trouble yet (who let the smoke out) and I hope it won't for quite some time!

Thank you again.

👍

Thank you for watching!

LOL... thank you, but this is simple compared to new stuff that other techs run into (my luck that I get all the old stuff).

You should only hear the inj, fuel pump & spark when touching the center pin of the 3 wire connector. Check the wiring to make sure that none of the 3 wires are touching each other... peel back the boot at the connector.

Fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds... you may or may not be able to hear it (depends on how much fuel is in the tank and ambient noise). Put your ear against the bottom of the fuel tank and have someone turn the key ON / OFF. You can also have someone crank the engine with the key (***TRANSMISSION IN PARK OR NEUTRAL***) while you listen for pump noise. If you do not hear any pump noise, tap the bottom of the fuel tank with your hand... the pump could be stuck. Tapping on the bottom of the fuel tank can unstick a stuck pump.

What year is your T4? Is your throttle body motorized with cable or does it just have a cable attached to it? Can you post a video on your channel so that I can see?

@@EXOVCDS Dear Thomas!!This car German made in 1999y at Taiwan,I bought 4 years ago.I know that idel speed controled by computer, and can't reduce gasoline or air input derect.before I try.impossible.till I see you 😀. Today I used your way found my ignition problem very soon.Thank you very much.l can't started several days, Thanks again.God bless you

The next time it doesn't start... follow the steps in this video and let me know the results.

You need the coil to develop spark... so you can not bypass it. If the hall sensor inside the distributor is bad... you need a new one. If the timing belt is broken (reason for no distributor signal)... you need a new one.

@@EXOVCDS thanks, noting like being stranded in a foreign country trying to find parts for a T4. Luckily the paragliding community stepped in and drove 3 hours to bring me a new coil pack and it fired right up. Thanks for your help

Thank you for the update... good to hear you had some help!

A little noisy after the initial start (due to the excess fuel)... but they do have a little tick / knock (if you can call it that) in general.

Are you in North America? If not, then the engine might have a crankshaft position sensor. If you are in NA, check the coil next. Similar way. Remove coil from van, place on top of headlight support that's close to battery. Attach power & ground to outer 2 pins of coil plug (check original connector which of the 2 is the brown / ground side). Every time the center pin is touched to ground, the coil should spark. Leave the ignition wire attached to the coil and place the other end close to a clean metal engine part (head). If spark does not jump, check resistance of coil wire (no more than 2k ohm). If wire is ok. Replace coil.

​@@EXOVCDSthanks, i will do this. Located in Finland.

First determine if you get consistent spark. Remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and hold it next to the cylinder head. Have someone crank the engine. You should see multiple & consistent spark jumps to the cylinder head. Yes / No? If no, first check if the battery & oil light go out while the ignition key is in the crank position (starter spinning). Yes / No? If the lights stay on and you DO NOT have spark... leave the key in the ON position, disconnect the 3 wire plug at the top of the distributor body... attach a test light to battery negative clamp... have someone hold the coil wire (from earlier test) close to the cylinder head again and then briefly touch the tip of the test light to the CENTER wire of the disconnected 3 wire harness plug for the distributor. Each time the test light is touched to the harness plug center wire, a spark should jump from the coil wire to the cylinder head. Yes / No? You should also hear the injectos click each time the test light touches the center wire. Yes / No? If injectors click, but no spark, then maybe the ignition coil is bad. If no injectors click, then the ECM or fuel pump relay is bad. If injectors click & spark is present, then the hall sensor inside the distributor is bad... or the timing belt is broken. Post a video on your channel so that I can hear the engine cranking.

@@EXOVCDS appreciate it buddy much much thanks will see how it works out and get bck at you

Is the ECM awake? Can you communicate with the ECM? If not, check the power supply relay. 3rd relay from the left, second row of relays above the fuses. Like in this video: (at 5:32 time stamp) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HdedLiPvU-s.htmlsi=kpt84qx_brcMJFQK

And this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7CIw9g3cJgY.htmlsi=l-pHvjLsFpBIbycZ

Yes

@@EXOVCDS Thank you! Mine does NOT... I'll start by tracing the hall wire back to the ECU and then try triggering it there.

@@advtechts9247 year, make, model, engine? If your engine has a crankshaft position sensor, then the above test will not work. Engines with crank sensors only have 1 hall window in the distributor. North American 2.5L engines never had crank sensors and have 5 hall windows.

@@EXOVCDS you know your stuff!!! It is an Australian delivered 1999 T4 Transporter with an AET engine. You are correct, it has a crank sensor and the hall sensor has only one window. Vehicle belongs to friend. Was taken to VW specialist were it had IGN Switch, Engine Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, 5 Injectors, Ign Coil, spark plugs, hall sensor, Distributor cap and rotor, crank sensor and a battery. Still won't start. I'm a mechanic but don't know these vehicles, trying to help a friend in my limited spare. Fuel pressure is good. Timing is good. Compression is good. I believe that the spark is too weak, will keep testing.

@@advtechts9247 was this a "no start" all of a sudden, or after some work? Restricted exhaust? If the drive gear for the distributor was installed 180 out, then the ignition rotor will sit 180 out.

Only ground "briefly / quickly"... how many hall sensor windows inside of your distributor?

If you get spark when touching the center pin, but no spark when cranking the engine, then the hall sensor is bad. Attach a test light across the outer 2 pins. If test light lights up, it's no a power or ground issue t the connector. Year, make, model, engine? When did the "no start" start happening. The more I know, the better I can help.

@@EXOVCDS Having a issue on my nieghbour Vw T25 1.9 DG engine cranks no start… AA been could not fix it diagnosed it at No spark! I alao think I’m not getting fuel on the Carb sprayed easy start no luck… advice on the next step please??? oh New ignition coil - spark plugs and HT leads a year old- new starter motor- new battery - New alternator also.

@ClarkNicolas-mz5uz Remove the distributor cap... have someone try to start the engine. Does the distributor rotor spin? Leave the key in the ON position. Remove the ignition coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and have someone hold the end of the coil wire close to a clean part of the cylinder head (1/2' or 1cm air gap). Disconnect the harness plug at the side of the distributor. Straighten a bare metal paper clip. Insert the metal clip into the center contacts of the disconnected distributor harness plug. With the key still ON, briefly touch the paper clip to a clean metal surface of the cylinder head. Each time the paper clip touches the cylinder head, spark should jump from the coil wire. Yes / no? Post a video of the above steps on your channel, so that I can see.

@@EXOVCDS Thank you for your replay Sir.. will try and do as advise💯

"When the alternator is first installed"... you removed it to check it? Or the alternator was replaced after you noticed the smoking? The alternator charging cable goes from the alternator to the big post on the starter. Check if the cable end is sitting at an angle / possibly touching the metal part of the starter solenoid.

@@EXOVCDS Thank you Thomas for your advice!

The more info I have the better I can help / guess as to what is happening. "When the alternator is first installed"... you removed it to check it, because it was smoking? Or the alternator was replaced and then you noticed the smoking? What is the charging voltage? Valve cover gaskets can leak oil... which can drip onto the alternator / get into the alternator. Alternators get warm, which can cause the oil to smoke. Does the smoke smell of oil or is it an electrical type of smell?

@@EXOVCDS Starter went bad . So a mobile mechanic came out to replace the starter. After starter was replaced, started the engine but alternator would not charge battery, then replaced alternator with 120 amps remanufactured alternator from parts store . Right after replacement started engine to make sure it worked prior to putting back the belly pan . The van started right away and alternator was charging battery. Voltage 12.9 but rising slowly. Then turned off engine to put belly pan on and get it off the ramps. After we got it off the ramps, we tried to start it again . It was struggling to start , then pressed on the auxiliary boost button from the cabin battery to give it additional cranking power and it started. Checked the battery terminal and this time only 11.5 volts not charging . Took out alternator thinking I had a bad alternator. Got another one had it bench tested , they told me it passed bench testing , reinstalled same thing happened again , van starts right away after new alternator installation but after I turn off engine and try to start again it struggles and battery voltage drops to 11.5 not charging. So I concluded that I am killing the alternator so far two of them . But this situation started after the starter was replaced . Thanks again !

@@billy1vassiliou So no actual smoke? It was just a figure of speech to say that the alternator got smoked? Replacing a starter is not rocket science, 3 mounting bolts, 1 starter trigger wire / connector and one connection for the battery + & alternator cable. Make sure that the cable ends that attach to the starter + post are clean. Then do a "voltage drop check" with the engine at idle. Start the engine, rev to 2500 rpm and then allow the engine to idle... perform the voltage drop test like I did in this video: (engine in video is a TDI, but the same test is valid on your gasoline engine). Let me know your findings / test results: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ieUbfUTwNjQ.html

When you try to start the engine... does the battery light in the instrument cluster go out when the engine is cranking?

I'll check again tomorrow and will let you know Thanks a lot for the quick response. I got a Ross tech code adapter and vcds reader on my way too. Cheers

@@EXOVCDS The battery light keeps solid during the crancking process, i sent a video link before but I dont thibnk it went thru, Also i received my ross-tech VCDS tool for this OBD1 system here is a look of what surfaced. 3 Faults Found: 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 08-00 - Control Limit Surpassed 00758 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) 37-00 - Faulty 00560 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System 01-00 - Signal Shorted to Plus Readiness: N/A weird nothing related to ignition, but i rest asured it was starting before i did the test to coil and hall sender... maybe these do not store fault codes into the ECU? I doubt it tho.

@@EXOVCDS ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H_8VxIG4HPQ.html

So I have to reply to the same question you asked me on Instagram? Here is my reply...While someone tries to start the engine... tap on the bottom of the fuel tank with your hand. It might help get the pump started, if it is stuck.

I just read your instagram post again... you did not mention that your pump was making noise. If the pump is working, how much fuel pressure is it putting out? Post a video on your channel, of you trying to start the engine... so that I can hear & see what is happening.

Year, make, model, engine? The more I know, the better I can guess. I'm starting work right now, but will get back to you later today / tonight.

@@EXOVCDS 1998 vw t4 caravelle gl gasoline.

So the 2 codes I'm getting are P00BE - Mass or Volume Airflow B circuit range/performance - Air Flow too low...and P0088 - Fuel Rail System Pressure Too High Bank 1 (fuel pressure is prolly just likely to over cranking it and the eurovan not starting, I just replaced all 6 fuel injectors with OEM fuel injectors and now it's in crank, but no start condition)...I'll definitely CashApp you for any help ✌️

What scan tool are you using? As far as I know... 99 EV VR6 does not have a way of checking fuel pressure, meaning that "fuel rail system pressure too high" does not apply to that engine. Check if you have spark... if yes, spray some brake parts cleaner into the intake (remove plastic tube from throttle body and spray the throttle body). If the engine starts & runs for a couple seconds, then you know that there is a fuel problem. With a good scan tool, you can activate the injectors & fuel pump individually to see (listen) if they are working. Here is a link to most factory VW & Audi fault codes. wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

Year & model of vehicle? Which country are you in? Never mind... I just looked at your videos. It could be ignition coil, but lack of injector pulse would not be due to coil. Spark could be better, but it looks strong enough. Have you tried to spray some brake cleaner into the intake and then check how long it runs for (if at all). I'm thinking your cam / crank timing is out. Check the timing belt for missing teeth. Have someone rotate the engine with a 27mm socket & ratchet on the crank pulley bolt... while you look at the belt / teeth from above.

@@EXOVCDS the coil is new. I figured out I can’t used a multi meter as a test light. When shorting then middle pin to ground I got the test light on the coil to go off and I the injectors to fire. I then came in behind the pins of the Hall effect sensor in order to connect the signal wire and ground to a test light. From there I cranked the vehicle and didn’t get any flashes. I believe this means there is an issue with the Hall effect sensor correct?

@@EXOVCDS will not fire on ether. I posted a few videos of me cranking it. It seems to hit a little bit at first but then goes away.

@@ibosley If you are able to get consistent spark while cranking (without a test light attached) then the hall sensor is OK. The test light could be attached incorrectly if it is not flickering when you are cranking. Turn the engine to TDC and check that the camshaft & crankshaft TDC marks line up at the same time. I have a feeling that the engine is out of time (cam & crank) which is also affecting when your spark is occurring, since the distributor is attached to the camshaft. .

@@EXOVCDS okay I will work on that tomorrow. So you believe based on my videos it is out of time? I had suspected this but dismissed it as me not being familiar with a five cylinder firing order. To answer your question. I live in Knoxville; it’s in East Tennessee, USA.

Sorry, I don't understand.

What's the actual issue? Vacuum leaks will mot prevent the engine from starting.

When the engine is cranking... is the distributor rotor turning?

@@EXOVCDS yes the rotor is turning, 26k original miles, last trip it died a couple times on the side of the road, would restart after an hour and go another 50 miles, was running when parked. I have changed the fuel pump a couple times which had the same symptoms. New #30 relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new fuel filter. another interesting thing I remember the #16 fuse and wire to fuel pump is not hot in run position and does not do 1-3 second prime when turn key to on position, but it is hot in start postion and runs the pump then with pressure test around 44 psi. It will fire on starting fluid. I am glad it finally quit it used to be intermittent problem which is hard to track down. I think something is keeping injectors from firing, I don't know if its ignition switch, hall sensor, or ecm. Thanks for your time

​@@moparmikefloy Fuel pump fuse is #18 (20A)

@@EXOVCDScurrently having a similar issue and narrowing it down to hall sensor or map on ecm, currently intermittent, was doing the start and immediately diying, would press the throttle and it would sputter and stumble, Basically new everything except map sensor lol, it tends to drop below idle sometimes and when i press the gas it just wants to die even more, waited a while and it started back up but got it towed home. Would a bad hall sensor cause intermittent staling when it’s warm?

@Jkidd123 The next time it doesn't start... follow the steps in this video and let me know the results.

If your engine has a crank sensor... it could be that it is bad.

We don't have the AAC engine in Canada... I had to Google it to see if the block has a crankshaft sensor. It does not look like it has one. Did you test for power & ground at the hall sensor harness plug? Key ON, does it have power & ground on the outer 2 pins? Remove the hall sensor harness plug. Key ON, briefly touch the center pin of the hall sensor harness plug to ground with a bare paper clip. Each time the paper clip touches ground, does the coil produce a spark? Do you hear the injectors click / fuel pump activation?

Hej Thomas thank you for your replies I did the following: Key ON, briefly touch the center pin of the hall sensor harness plug to ground with a bare paper clip. Each time the paper clip touches ground, does the coil produce a NO spark and i dont hear the injectors click / fuel pump activation.

I check ground and power of the hall plug: there is power and the ground

Also the same ground and power on the coil plug. No spark on old coil or new coil.

2.5 gasoline or 2.5 diesel? Do you have the engine production code? AET, APL, AVT, AJT, ACV, AUF...?

@@EXOVCDS saludos

APL? Click on the fkh161 link in the description... then click on "tool request" to send me a message. I will then send you the wiring diagram.

Does it start and then die... or does it just crank & crank & crank? I am not aware of 1996 Eurovan having an immobilizer. What country are you in / is the vehicle from?

@@EXOVCDS I'm in Ireland. No attempt to start. Just cranks and nothing. Done your test by grounding centre pin on distributor and I'm getting a spark. Also getting weak key signal fault from immobiliser ecu. Fuel pump is priming

@@liamdevaney7476 have someone crank the engine while you check for spark... if you have spark, check for fuel / pressure / injector pulse. If you have no spark when cranking, check your ignition switch.

@@EXOVCDS Took cowling off around steering wheel. Pick up for key goes into the back of dash clocks

@@liamdevaney7476 Usually a problem with the key / immobilizer will result in a start (runs for a couple of seconds) and then a stall situation. To check if the antenna is "searching for a chip signal" , I use an Induction Signal Detection Card. Position around key cylinder and then turn the key to the ON position. LED should light up. If yes, the possible issue with key... but again, normally the engine should still start then die. If LED does not light up, then there may be a problem with the coil / antenna or the immobilizer itself. Send me some pictures of your setup / dash (key ON pictures of dash lights or post a video on your channel so I can see). www.amazon.com/Automotive-Induction-Signal-Detection-Diagnostic/dp/B01LX1DRW3

Thanks... I usually just plug a used coil in and see what happens, but this step by step makes a better video. :)