We enjoyed doubling the power of this old W617 with the use of the Dieselpumpuk custom injection pump. To view more great products please visit our shop following the link below..... dieselpumpuk.com/products/per...
I own a 1983 300SD turbo diesel. My favorite car! I love the sound of my old diesel! I have over 300,000 miles and still get 23 mpg! A definite tank rock solid car!
In the '70s when mercedes launched the 617 turbo, some trial versions already made 180+hp on the running pad. To keep engine's life long, they reduced to 125hp then became available on the market.
Great information. I have a 1981 Mercedes 240d with the 4 speed manual rather than the 5 speed manual commonly found in Europe. The 4 cylinder diesel does not put out a lot of power but I keep up with traffic okay and I have taken many trips to the San Diego area from north of Bakersfield about an hour. It takes about 7 hours after you fight through the Los Angeles traffic. It is always the struggle between lowering the RPM on the top end and having zip on the bottom end. The first 2 gears I am usually right with the traffic but by the 3 gear the car drags behind the traffic until I get back to the flow of traffic.
Something I did modify was having the 205 70r14 Michelin tires but now I can't find them at Costco. I also added another air scoop close to my AC condenser. A drunk hit my first Mercedes and totaled it but it makes a good parts car. I took the air scoop added a PVC Y and channeled both air scoops into the engine. I have never put it on a dynamometer but it has made the diesel just a bit perkier. I also add Cetane and Marvel's Mystery oil to the fuel. That helps lower the loud chatter of the engine while getting more power out of the engine. My next big project will be to replace the mechanical radiator fan with an electric fan to take back some of the horse power lost on moving the mechanical fan. I upgraded the alternator to a bigger alternator that took the same plug in. That has also helped. It would be nice to put a turbo on that engine but it was not designed to take a turbo so that idea has been nixed.
@@MiikeyLawless Actually, the 240d 4 speed manual does not have a turbo. I get a good run up the hill and then have to shift into 3rd but it stays around 55 mph. which really pushes the engine. I currently put on a new set of tires and went with the Uniroyal 205 75r14 and it makes a nice difference on the top end and drops the RPM. It makes a bit of change on the speedometer but the added comfort makes a nice difference. My recent project has been replacing the mechanical radiator fan and replaced it with a Flex-a-lite electric fan. I am no longer taking the long trips down to San Diego since my wife died from cancer 2 1/2 years ago.
I had a 79 motorhome normally aspirated OM616. Drove it to the South of France from London. I was in first gear on some of the hills on the motorway. Then drove it over Pyrenees and the oil light came on. I topped it up but the damage was done. I used about twenty litres of oil getting home - was surprised the police didn't stop me at times. No one could see.
I wonder why I never noticed this before? I have 300D W123 with a STT turbo on it ,it's not slow (2 actual speeding tickets...) but it lacks real power because of the low fuel delivery setting. I have the STT manual which has a few hints on how to adjust the rack settings etc. I dont have the intercooler either which I think STT said came from a Saab, and the proper STT aircleaner is a large Volvo panel filter. So on hot days here there is a noticeable power loss.
How what power increase did the turbo kit give over the standard engine ? How did it increase the power over standard if there was no fueling increase ?
Actually, the 240d 4 speed manual does not have a turbo. I get a good run up the hill and then have to shift into 3rd but it stays around 55 mph. which really pushes the engine. I currently put on a new set of tires and went with the Uniroyal 205 75r14 and it makes a nice difference on the top end and drops the RPM. It makes a bit of change on the speedometer but the added comfort makes a nice difference. My recent project has been replacing the mechanical radiator fan and replaced it with a Flex-a-lite electric fan. I am no longer taking the long trips down to San Diego since my wife died from cancer 2 1/2 years ago.
Nice, i like the old school diesels. These old Mercs & PSA XUD are 2 of my favourites, do you guys do common rail stuff too though? We've got a Volvo S80 D5 (euro3 163) and a 206 1.4HDi currently, the Volvo is decent enough but i'd be interested in any tips you might have for getting a little more from the pug, though TBF i think the standard turbo is the limitation as it's running out of puff at the top end. That and no intercooler is a problem (It's pretty standard, running gutted cat/disabled EGR & wastegate adjustment's maxed out).
Also look at the power curve. It makes more stock until the peak and falls off. What is the max rpm on the new pump Dyno curve? (Edit) ok I could make it out (rpm @power) toward the end of the vid. 4500 is good
How come that thing is knocking so hard at idle? Is this normal? the camera mic perhaps? You mentioned I can send to you an "MW" pump but will get back this "M" pump. I am not familiar with the difference but my core/car is a U.S. 300SD turbo diesel om617 pump. Is this this core acceptable to send to you? Thanks.
Taras Pylypiv I put one in my Jeep cj5. Check out my playlist. I’ve got a tdi swapped Jeep and a 617 swapped Jeep. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CsTemCcG_Lo.html
Its actually been done a good bit, but its not the best diesel for a Jeep swap (pmus you're ruining a Mercedes) theyre higher revving diesels more designed for highway cruising at higher speeds, not as much low end torgue for crawling over stumps etc. There's way better diesels for that purpose that will give you more torque at lower rpms. I would really check out the new Cummins R2.8 crate motor.
@@joeb578 If not sufficient, how about considering om606 turbo, that has been modified. I would think with let's say, just an example 350hp and the right final drive ratio. Just my opinion, I would think that would be sufficient. Though with cj5, length might be an issue ? I'm honestly not that familiar with how much room they have under the bonnet.
Hola amigo,tengo una Mercedes benz 409d t1,es un furgón pero con el mismo motor pero sin turbo,crees que seria posible ponerle el turbo? Afectaría negativamente al motor? Espero su respuesta gracias de antemano saludos
i like the fact that it has very little smoke but cmon gents something has to give here ...double the power means double the heat i have to wonder how the ex valves are doing after a 1000 miles nevermind that the exhaust is going to be twice as hot during extra boost but all in decent work gotta love those Bosch pumps i used to play with quanity adjustment on the rabbits in the early 80's and i got nice results
It’ll only be double the heat if the engine is ran to rich and there is loads of smoke. If the boost is set right and there is no smoke on boost. The engine will be fine. Not to mention there tough as nails anyway.
Hi, just wondering where you lads are based? Would you fancy taking on a Jaguar XFS 3.0 V6 diesel that is throwing out loads of black smoke at about 2500 rpm? I’ve had the DPF’s removed, the EGR’s blanked and it’s been mapped, it was fine for about 6 weeks after the map and then I started noticing a lack of power and loads of smoke. It’s been to 4 garages now and no one can work out what’s wrong with it ☹️
There may be no loss, you may even gain some efficiency via turbo doing its job better, but your fuel usage will increase either way, as you are actively pumping more fuel... To reduce fuel consumption and to increase fuel efficiency are not the same thing... You can have the best, most fuel efficient engine and induction system but drive like a moron and have poor fuel mileage, and you can have an engine that has poor fuel efficiency(not power necessarily) and drive it with good fuel mileage... Power of the engine, its fuel conversion efficiency and fuel usage are related, but not strictly linked... Either can change without impacting others, and any change in any of them can impact all others in some cases... I cant say in this case does the fuel efficiency of the system rise, but i can say with certainty that fuel usage does rise, and as was shown, so does the power... Now it can be calculated, if we were told all the data and could establish formulas for original setup and its efficiency and then compare it to what we see here, but not enough data is given, and sure, it could be fetched and gathered, but im not here to provide both the resources for math, the math and info, i hope this did help, altho untimely, but whatchugonnado?
Hello Sr. I am Matias, I come from URUGUAY, I LIKE IT AND IT HAS HELPED ME A LOT. Could you give some advice? I have a mercedes 300sd w126, it runs great. but it happens that it apparently loses oil in the crankshaft seal or seal from the gearbox side. Do you think that you could undertake or make the arrangement without disassembling too much? thanks greetings the car is 1982 om617
What have you guys done with the tranny. I had a 85w123 and those transmissions are a pain in the ass that the vacuum pump and the lines have to be right. Did you guys change the tranny out with something else. You guys killed it that car is sick and its a wagon too
Neither the fuel supply nor the turbo if so equipped was ever the constraint to power on the OM617. It was always the valve timing. There is a 26° or so period at TDC where both the intake valve and exhaust valve are closed - no overlap, no scavenging. Compare this to the later OM602/OM603 which has overlap.
Awesome stuff! I have a MB100D which has a OM616 in it and I 'd like to swap the engine out for something with some more power. Something tells me the OM606 wouldn't fit and would also be overkill but perhaps the OM617A would be a good shout. Do you have any experience with the MB100D? Also do you do full engine rebuilds?
@@catfish_lude they are reading the power at the wheels. Manufacturers rate the engine, itself, at the crankshaft. Also, I am not sure if Mercedes did this, but I know American car manufacturers, back until the later 70s or 80s, basically tested just the engine, with no accessories bolted up. No cooling fan, no power steering pump, no alternator.
@@catfish_lude okay, gimme a second, dumbing myself down a bit here: Factory spec if engine alone. No transmission, no final drive and their inherant losses. These guys are using a chassis dyno, which measures power at the wheels. This take into account the power used to drive the transmission and differential. It is always going to give you lower power figures than an engine dyno. If you say what, one more time, I will get out the crayons, so don't eat them.
Hi Luke Very impressive what you are doing with diesel engines. I'd love the opportunity to quote you on machining some of you conversion components. Thomfield engineering Ltd. We are a small company in South Wales. Any opportunities would be very much appreciated
well imagine you have 10g of tnt you get poff now imagine you got 20g ot tnt now you got POFF the engine was originally without a turbo so the stock pump was already strung out and not able to give the fuel needed to drive the turbo properly, now with a pump serving more fuel you have a bather combustion pushing the turbo faster hence making more bost as unlike petrol cars i dont belive this has any boost limiter so more spool is more air and more poff
@@JoeHeine yeah that would be the basics of it all, as you from factory need to comply with emissions and such, but a pump able to deliver more fuel is bether for power
Highteckhobbies if you keep your foot out of it it should be better than stock as well as crusing around Should be better as well because you don’t have to be in your fuel pedal as much
Impressive! I have a US 1985 Turbo w123 sedan. I’m curious how the tranny behaves, I guess it will rev quicker but I would not gain a lot more top speed, right?
Curious about rpm data…the 5.5 pump hp and torque data is recordeed below 4000 rpm. The new pump data for hp and torque is around 4500 rpm. This would make a difference in data numbers, correct? So is the dyno data accurate? Also, how is the engine hp calculated? Is it strictly mathematical? Not actual physical data? Thanks! Nice video looking forward to adding a new pump. Tim
DieselPumpUK the 80-88hp isnt Factory claim to the Wheel but at the crank. But even then,..... with STT kit less power then factory specs without turbo?
Speedbuster Nederland the turbo kits made next to no difference, the stock pump didn’t have any more to give than 40cc so it was a total waste of time anyway. They were fitting these kits with the stock n/a pump, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist to realise that was pretty pointless.
You have an 2,5l om602 thats an completely different engine... you just have to look up at there website www.dieselpumpuk.com they have a pretty good online store. You can chosse between different power goals (275hp/400hp/600hp)
