165k on a 2016 Mazda CX5 AWD with a 2.5L 4 cylinder in it. I use Castrol High Mileage 0W-20 full synthetic and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I always change the oil myself at every 5,000 miles. It still runs like new. Every 50,000 miles I replace all the fluids in the car and put fresh spark plugs in it. The only major repairs it has needed is a high pressure fuel pump, a lower control arm and ball joint assembly, and new rear shocks.
I have used the Super Tech synthetic motor oil and it works just fine. You can’t beat the price. Now the Pennzoil & Quaker States are both products of Shell Lubricants.
I been down that darn oil/oil filter rabbit hole too long ! My daily (1994 chevy s10 )gets supertech oil and oil filter with an OCI of 3,000 miles - 3 months or 125 hrs which ever comes first ! My 02 chevy s10 ZR2 gets synthetic oil and fram ulta synthetic oil filter twice a year ! Gotta love walmart !
I love any synthetic oil the improvement from synthetic from conventional is incredible I have noticed engines get substantially quieter by switching to synthetic oils, I love royal purple I see a lot of Subaru owners adore the stuff it’s very slick and a great one to put in an oil gun but my top pick is going to be pennzoil ultra platinum, mobil 1 or liqui moly and if your very stingy about oils I would look into the extensive test others have performed.
Amsoil. Comes right to the house free shipping. No BS trying to find oil at the store and they are out of stock or not enough jugs of the blend you need. Cheap oil has less additives and can cause sludge build up. I change my oil every 5,000 miles and run my stuff a long time. It’s nice getting everything from diesel oil to mix oil for the weed wacker shipped right to the house.
lol, you’d get the same service with any brand. Oil is oil. Gasoline is gasoline. Ibuprofen is ibuprofen. The different brands are far more similar than they are different.
Not necessary unless the container has been sitting for years. I typically buy boxes since cheaper & add my own additives like Zinc & seal conditioners for my older engines. A quick shake if worried will do.
Shaking the oil does nothing, if the oil is more than 3 or 4 years old the additives will separate and stick to the bottom of the container and will NOT remix even when shaken. If the oil is stored in an air conditioned building then it can delay the separation, being stored below freezing in winters is the worse as it will ruin and separate the additives in the oil over years of storage in cold winters. If you have a quart of old oil, pour it into a jug and look into the bottom of the oil container, if you see black or white or orange stuck to the bottom those are the additives that have separated from the oil. They will not re-emulsify by shaking.
@@Bowhunters6go8xz6x agree and more good info!! I had some boxes of engine oil close to the 4-5 year old mark, I used last year. Oil looked good and smelled the same as new. I have had oil left over when open and air will age it much quicker. Will add; never keep old/open brake fluid for any long durations of time either.
@@SamslamminCarsI’ve used a good majority of these oils and filters in my ‘16 Honda Civic. As I do 7000-mile oil change intervals every 3 months (I drive a lot of hwy miles), they’ve all done fine. For me it’s more important not to let the oil changes go too long. Because wintertime is so cold and I DIY, I may let it go 4 months or 8K miles with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 with a Purolator Boss filter.
I mean mobil 1 is a great full synthetic oil, but really anything that cost more than mobil 1, such as amsoil but not only is amsoil full synthetic oil but it has zinc. If you want a zinc oil but don't want to pay 12.99 a quart plus tax which is $15 a quart then you can rotella 10w30 it has more than enough zinc already in it but not over kill so you should be ok if you have a catalytic converter.
@@SamslamminCars an older vehicle until it has 100.000 miles on the engine, it benefits more with a conventional oil because it moves slower through the engine to help lubricate it.
You can never go wrong to change the oil and filter at regular intervals of (5000 miles) and use a good brand name oil, even Ford and Toyota, Honda, etc that talked about 10,000 mile oil changes have reversed (especially on Turbo Charged engines) and now say that changing the oil and filter at around 5,000 miles is the best. ----- On the question of which oil and oil filters are best on a (flow test bench) Amsoil tested the best (Pennzoil oil was 2nd) but others like Mobil1 or Castrol, etc (any premium brand is going to be a very good oil. -------- On oil filters Amzoil was again the best on the flow bench, it cleaned dirty used oil of all dirt down to 20 microns (0 parts per million/ppm @ 20 microns) was allowed by the filter which was the best, all other Brand Name oil filters like Mobil 1 and Fram, Wix etc tested let at least a few PPM's of dirt to get through at even a larger 30 microns. Even on cold oil at freezing temps the Amsoil oil filter cleaned and flowed the best. I grew up using Pennzoil but today Amsoil is kicking butt !
Great information & thank you for taking the time to type all of that out. Wix, Fram premium filters, Napa Gold are 20 microns, Microgard is 25 & the cheap SuperTech are still 30 microns which is solid. You cannot go wrong with any of them but I do agree 💯; Amsoil or the top tier are still better overall. As mentioned in the video, changing your oil more often matters the most. Thanks again!!!!
@@SamslamminCars They can say or claim 20 microns all day but on the flow bench filters like Fram, etc. allowed dirt as large as 30 microns to pass through.
@@Bowhunters6go8xz6x this is very true. I have only had one Fram oil filter cause my 1st Honda to have a valve/lifter tick at cold start up. Replaced it with another manufacturer & it went away, never used Fram again. Flow rate & proper oil pressure matter like mentioned, even more than the filtration efficiency. Thanks again!
I recommend a brand name like Pennzoil ,Valvoline or Q State and depending on your mileage get high mileage filter (Fram, Wix ,STP) and oil full synthetic every 5000 miles.
Not all filters are equal & lower grade paper cellulose filters should never be used over 3-5k miles. If you have a filter rated for 10k, 20k then maybe.. I personally always change the filter with the oil. I have heard of others' skipping filters or oil per intervals, see no point in this and the minimal savings at best.
I mean today's vehicles need a full synthetic, I have a 89 Chevy 1500 and if you want to save some money I mean anyone in general and you have an old vehicle like I do under the year 2000, you can trust a good quality conventional motor oil, super tech 10w30 conventional oil is good and Castrol gtx 10w30, white jug is Castrol conventional oil.
You are correct but I do run synthetic even in my older engines. I daily use a CRX and with the long miles, synthetic holds up better. All of the brands you mentioned are solid and conventional still serves a great purpose, especially in a break in period.
@@SamslamminCars I'm just curious if you ran a full synthetic in a hot rod motor, it burns through it like the piston rings are gone. That's because your engine loves it like we love water when we are hot, yeah it's going through the engine but faster, it's not sticking to your engine parts to lubricate it as well as it should. I've seen rods sticking out of sides of blocks from lead foot and not good oil, for example a tire smoking V8 today may need 5w30 and if you really like to petal to the metal a hot rod still needs a conventional but I would use a 10w40 until 100.000 miles after break in then switch to 15w40 conventional delo 400 15w40.
@@RichardCraneeum I have not, my oldest is a 258 4.2 also. I have read up that with aggressive cams & higher compression; these issues you bring up are most definitely a problem.
@@SamslamminCars I'm not saying I wouldn't use a full synthetic oil on an older engine but I've seen motors fail at 10,000 miles and there nos solenoids on a Holley carburetor. When you build a motor or if a motor is older but just been rebuilt it's going to feel tight for awhile really tight especially if you only drive the vehicle a couple times a week and not long and far. When burnout and try first and second stripage on the street your engine is going to cut out a bit, I've told people because the engine is still very tight and the nitrous can blow it up.
@@SamslamminCars full synthetic oil won't help break in a hot rod engine or tbi engine, I've learned that the hard way, it goes through your engine like raw fuel goes through a funny car engine and makes those flames come out of the zoomy pipes under the engine compartment by the front tires.
All this abundance is designed to confuse you and create a false reality for you. All these oils are garbage for the engine. They hide from you the single-grade oils that are the best and most natural for the engine. Research this, and I have something else to tell you, if you want to keep your engine in the best condition, you must solve 4 problems that end engines by deleting the EGR and PCV VALVE, use single-grade oils according to the ambient temperature, not according to what the manufacturer says, and use only distilled water in the cooling system. Antifreeze is only used at freezing temperatures, not at all temperatures, it's a business trick to steal your money, the manufacturers are looking for profitability and not reliability, that's why they also put EGR in the engines and multigrade oils are the silent killers of the engines
