Dude, you made my weekend. I'd been looking for ways to fix this problem for months and chanced across your video. Sure enough, there was one broken yellow wire right at the bottom door hinge. Found some old 18-gauge wire in the toolbox and spliced a connection and the ice maker is back to life. It's annoying that they designed it that way, but at least it was easy enough to get at to fix.
THANK YOU for keeping me from having to run around in circles. Our 11-year old Whirlpool side-by-side (Model: GSS30C6EYY02, Serial No HR20812028) began intermittently making ice last week, then completely quit. I checked continuity, and found the BROWN & WHITE wires had broken, and the GREEN wire was on its way to breaking. I needed to tip the refrigerator back against the wall in order to have room to repair the three wires.
Unfortunately my wiring fix lasted approximately 6 months. I used braided wire, and I had soldered these wires (and used heat shrink tubing over them). The problem is the soldering of the wires makes those areas stiff, which made these stiff portions ripe for breaking under continual flexing in that same (door opening door closing) area. This time, I used much longer pieces of wire, and soldered, and protected with heat shrink tubing again. However, this time I made the connections such that it would be a nice long loop on each end, and the braided wire...not the braided wire that was soldered, would only be subject to this continual (door opening door closing) stress. Let's see if my depiction, using dashes (to depict wires), x's (to depict soldered areas), and equal signs (to depict two wires side by side), helps to visualize what I accomplished. From this... --------xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx------------ to this... ----====xxxxx....X....xxxxxx===--------- | | -------------------------------------------- Note: For some reason, the area between the xxxx's, where I type spaces, renders in such a way it looks like dashes. So I put in periods (.) and a capital X to show where there is no wire between the soldered areas.
Thanks bro. Found this thanks to your video.Taking the door off makes the repair SO much easier. Remove the 2 screws from the top hinge and CAREFULLY slide the (2) water tubes and (1) wire bundle slowly out of the center of the bottom hinge. No need to cut the mesh, just push it up into the door and out of the way. I had six wires in the bundle and, even though 3 of them weren't yet broken, I soldered/ spliced wire into all 6. Then, just pull the mesh back over them all and some electrical tape at the end to hold it in place. Reinstall the door and reconnect the plugs. It sure is sweet hearing the ice rolling into the ice tray. I've now got a full tub of ice.
I Googled all over looking for the issue and this was exactly it. You nailed it. As soon as I heard the issue you mentioned I knew this was our problem. Four of the six cables in the larger bundle were broken. We spliced all of them and we are now getting ice. The dispenser isn't working yet but we're back in business with ice. Thanks very much for posting this video. Also, thanks to @ichban as we found removing the door to be the easiest approach to do the repair. To reinstall the door we replaced the bottom hinge first by sliding the tubing down through the hinge, bolted it to the frig then set the door on top of the hinge, way easier than trying to hold the door while someone else mounted the hinge. Also, no need to complete remove the top hinge, we just loosened the bolts and that allowed us to remove the top of the door without completely removing the top hinge.
Obviously you are a guy who takes pride in his work and enjoys doing things the right way! Thanks for sharing the benefit of all your experience and keep doing what you're doing!
I fixed mine yesterday, had 5 1/2 broken wires out of 8. Took the door off (neighbors helped), made a wood jig with foam to lay door on kitchen table, some wires seemed shorter in the loom, cut all 8 to even lengths. Taped two alligator clips together to hold wires for soldering, added heat shrink, cut hard plastic sheath back 6", wrapped with elect. tape, moves freely and everything works again, the wife is Happy. Thanks for the video
Same problem on a Maytag side-by-side. In fact, I fixed four broken wires about 6 months ago. Had ice for the first time in a long time. Then suddenly it all stopped. Pulled apart all my work at the bottom of the door and everything still looked fine. Turns out these new broken wires were tricky to find because the wire break was INSIDE the wire insulation with no obvious disconnection on the outside! The only way to find them was using the continuity test as he described in this video. Many thanks because this method helped pinpoint what wires were a problem very quickly!
I have replaced the ice maker and the valve that separates the two water lines and was beginning to think that someone was playing some kind of trick on me. Looked at the bottom of the door after watching this video... broken wires! THANK YOU!
Hey Beard, I have chased this problems for almost a year. I finally was down to knowing there was either a blown fuse or broken wire in the door. NO ONE except for you has pointed me in the right direction. I had 4 broken wires on my door. I had to remove the door to do the repairs in a way that I knew the would last. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! My wife is happy that we have an ice maker and ice despenser again. You're the MAN! Blessings.
I just happened upon this video in hopes of figuring out why my ice maker was not filing with water. For me it was PURE GOLD. Sure enough, the beige wire to the water inlet valve was broken. I NEVER would have considered broken wire to be the problem and would likely have just piece by piece replaced every part in the system instead. Just completed splicing the wire back together and am feeling quite confident there will be ice in the morning. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! :)
Glad you found it!! I knew this would help some folks. The first time I ran into one of these I did replace everything and it still didn’t work. It was a warranty job for the customer so the manufacturer paid for it but it wasn’t an easy find the first time around. That’s the first place I look now when I run into these not making ice. I have ran into 3 this year where all the wires needed to be spliced. Both harnesses down there the wires were broken. If it still gives you trouble look into the other wires. They can look to be good but truly broke copper behind the insulation.
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you again for sharing it! That did indeed take care of the issue. Making nice, full sized ice cubes now. And if it ever stops working again, the first thing I'll be checking is all those wires at the bottom of the door :)
Thanks so much for the tip on broken wire. I found 2 wire that was broken , it sure wasnt easy trying to splice a wire in there. But got it fix and you saved me a big repair bill. Merry Christmas now I can buy my wife a present ( Jewlery) and not a new refigerator
Great information, I've seen a ton of these refrigerators with the broken wire problem. What a shame that this is a problem after building refrigerators like this for 6 decades. The reason the icemaker won't fill with the jumper in place is that the harvest thermostat must be in an open condition before water is called for at the end of a harvest cycle. Otherwise, the icemaker will continue to go through another harvest cycle and will not shut off or refill with water. Insert jumper wire for about 15 seconds then remove. If all is well with the icemaker it should harvest, refill and stop to await the harvest t-stat to close again and start another harvest cycle.
Bingo! Ice maker suddenly stopped a few days ago. Nothing made sense- not over full freezer because its been much more full recently, water line not frozen up, nothing in the way, tray is empty and flopping freely, everything else (water, ice dispenser, etc) in the door works…watched your vid…we have a winner. Two broken wires- red and white/green. Heading to the parts store now for butt splices. Thanks!
You were rite on the money with your information about the broken wire, I had repairman come out twice and neither time it got fixed so I started looking for info on u-tube and I replaced the ice maker all of the water inlet valves and still nothing, that's when I saw your video and there it was broken tan wire, 🙂 thanks Bro, you rock.
Like a lot of other here, THANK YOU!! for this video. I would not have thought to check, but sure enough, one wire was completely severed, and another was hanging by the insulation. It was a little tough to get at the wires pulled down from the door, but I was able to get them connected without taking off the door. Not sure why Whirlpool does not beef up this wiring harness!!!!! Seems like a fairly common issue.
I need to give credit where it is due. You lead me right to the problem the black wire was broke about 2" from the bottom of the door. I had just enough to solder and heat shrink it back together. Thanks for your help.
Hey Great videos, Just got back into full time repair service again, I just ran into one of these this week. Customer had been charged 620.00 for new Icemaker by one of the Authorized companies. I found a bad receiver board but after that no power during jumper test. All four wires broke for Icemaker but other two fine. i was looking for replacement harness but did not find one on diagram. Customer was happy. Love your videos
Just viewed your video and voila it is exactly what is wrong with my side by side fridge. I see 1 wire is broken. Luckily I got a warranty from the Geek Squad that is still active. The ice despenser is not working when I push the cup against the lever. I think that 1 broke wire down by the lower left fridge door is the cause. I believe if the repairman cannot fix it I will get a free replacement fridge. Covered by Warranty. Glad I bought this at Best Buy. It was not cheap approx. $140 for 3 years extended warranty. The weird thing is the fridge was made with this manufacturer flaw because opening the freezer door should not cause the wires to be pulled and stretched each time. I hope I can chose a different model when they exchange it. Again thanks for posting this RU-vid.
@@JeffMTX As mentioned above. Geek Squad could not repair it and the repair guy actually broke more and got a brand new Samsung side by side fridge. Exchange with different brand was under warranty. Again purchased the Geek Squad warranty and I highly recommended.
Agree with others, pure gold! I had three wires cut. The issue is the cover that goes across the front. The top left is too high and cuts the wires. I trimmed my cover and put the wires in a plastic loom. Thank you so much for the video. Not sure I would have ever figured it out. I was not able to remove the white cone shaped cover on the top left of the door that covers the brown/black/green/white wires as they come out of the door. You removed it but I could not get it off. I didn't end up needing it removed.
Thanks for the video. The problem still exists as another potential break in the near future. The problem is of course the engineering design flaw which has a kinked wire running through a hinge.
Yep it may happen again. I let them know when i fix them and hope they get another 5 years out of it. they know when it goes out again it likely wont be able to be fixed without a new door. Which you can buy a new one for the cost of the door.
I have this fridge and it’s is trash. An ice maker shouldn’t go out within 6 years! Fridges, washing machines, etc. All the same…everything is made cheap to force people to buy new ones after 6 or 7 years. Nothing lasts anymore.
I think you just might have saved my ass. Just installed new ice maker, 140.00 later, and you are explaining my exact problem. Thank God for blue collar!
I couldn’t figure out how to remove the cover over the ice maker. Surely, there were more than the 2 screws I found. It looks like I was wrong! I’ll tear into it this weekend and look for broken wires. Before it quit working, it started making occasional loud mechanical noises, like gears breaking or snapping, that we could hear in the next room. Any idea what that might be?
Crossing my fingers in hopes of a response. I am working on fixing our whirlpool ice maker. After a separate repair, the ice maker suddenly stopped filling with water. I have run through the diagnostics in W11125075B and the ice maker water fill test and ice harvest tests pasted. I am suspecting that the control arm is stuck reading that the bin is full of ice. Is there a way to reset the control arm? nothing was in the service key assignments to do so.
What is that wire/sensor going to the fill tube? Also it should work with just pushing the door switch or the also had to push the switch for the ice bucket too?
Wow, so glad this was on here, same problem and only 1 white wire broken and back in business. Question, so do they even sell a replacement wire harness for this group of 4 that run to ice maker motor? not much wire to work with to repair and would have spent a few bucks to just replace the entire harness if I could find it online? Please share part number if anyone is aware of it..
Thanks for posting this! My question: my Whirlpool makes plenty of ice...the auger motor runs and I can see the shaft spin (it will not spin freely by hand when off) but no ice comes out. Any ideas?
Having a problem with my ice maker for a month. Whirlpool side by side fridge model # ISC23CNEXY02. Ice maker works only one time when I turn the power off then back on. Water pressure is fine, water filter is good. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.
How is the ice mker filled by water? My water dispenser and the motor for the ice make runs with no issue, but there is no water in it to be converter to the ice?
OK three of the five wires are broken as the harness enters the door at its bottom. No room for a splice. Definite design flaw. Is there a way to replace the Harness? Is there a way to disconnect the water lines that are connected at the bottom of the door? Does Whirlpool have a complete new door for sale? What's the part number? A new refrigerator cost $1200. Oh, Bearded one can you advise?
Hi there, my new Kitchenaid side by side is not filling the ice maker (in Door) with water, I suspect air as it's a new install. I was unable to find a reset as I did on my new Amana side by side which started to fill with water right after. Any ideas?
Wrv986fdem00 unplugged refrigerator . Plugged it back in ice level sensor LED light comes on for a few minutes then goes out. No ice being made. I ran service test 15 and LED light comes on and laser beam beam works. But once I take it out of service mode LED light goes off in a few minutes. I would sure like to know if it’s the sensor and emitter before I go plunk a few hundred dollars down for new parts . My son lives in Hartselle I’m in California Thank you
I figured out this repair on my own after checking all connections at the motor and at the front of the harness. I found the breaks in three wires and the repair lasted a while. Back to broken wires again. Has anyone pulls the door apart with ruining it and, if so, how did you do it? I would like to replace the harness, even if that means spicing the wire where the repetitive motion does not break the wire for a few years.
I have this one what keeps happening is the arm that kicks the ice out gets frozen and stuck I have to remove the cover use a hair dryer to remove the ice so the arm can move again.
Is is possible to pull a new wiring harness through the freezer door? Mine keeps breaking at that same spot. I soldered, then used crimp-on unsuccessfully.
I was grinding my gears trying to figure out why my ice dispenser motor was not working on my KRSC503ESS00 refrigerator There was no voltage at the motor connection when the dispenser actuator was pressed. It turns out the wire was broken at the very location the bearded one describes. The plug at the bottom of the unit, with the blue and gray wires, is for the dispenser motor.
Mine checks out now but is still not filling after putting a new valve in, trying to figure out how the bucket full sensor works on this model, it may need reset so it will start up.
I had four broken wires on mine. Mine is a similar model but not the same because I can’t figure out how to remove the faceplate to access the ice maker itself, it’s not as simple as the two screws on this one.. I fixed all four broken wires but I’m still not working. Im digging for answers still.
Please advise -so in trying to figure out what’s wrong with our icemaker. We have determined if we open the door for 10 minutes -and wait three hours it will make a tray of ice and that’s it -next day do the same thing and it will make a tray of ice it’s model like the one you showed in the video- any idea what could be going on? I live in Texas or I would call you for service. Thanks.
I have the exact same icemaker setup as this video. I have soldered 2 broken wires at the door. Still get intermittent or no power at the control module. How do you disconnect the wiring harness from ice maker, I'm not seeing tabs to release it, to check continuity?
HI thanks for the video!! I have similar set up on a jenn-air side by side. Both icemaker and door ice dispenser went out at the same time. Everything else is working fine even the dispenser actuator door works fine. Could a damaged wire like in the video be the cause? Or would the electronic control module be the case? Or something else...
I have the Dacor Reaissance double wall oven Model EORD230. There are no error codes. When baking after about 45 minutes it will occasionally switch into broil mode. Can you please tell me how you would go about diagnosing and testing this issue (caps,relays etc.) ? Thank you, Henry
im having the same problem but there is no screws behind the ice tray to take the cover off... also is there a reset button on this model because mine doesnt seem to have that inless its under the motor cover?
i did figure this out mine has 4 screws behind the ice tray... no wires under there so im thinking i need to figure out how to remove the kick panel below the doors hopefully the wire bundle is there. no reset option on my ice maker ether and i have no idea how to test continuity or where to put the probes.
Thanks for the video! I have run test harvesting cycles and fill cycle on my wp fridge. There’s a code that say water fill is off. How do I turn it on or it the unit bad? I’ve changed both WI valves. Thanks
My ice maker is not filling up with water. We have had 3 repair technicians out and it is still not fixed. We did use our home warranty so I am sure that has something to do with the techs not wanting to spend much time on it but I need help. Any suggestions please help?
It could still be bad wiring leading to the fridge not being able to call for water. It could also be the valve that splits water from the source and directs it to either the water or ice. I would start by checking the wires down at the bottom left hinge, as that seems to be a common problem and is reasonably easy to check.
My side by side gsf26c4exto2 Whirlpool stopped making ice. The wiring harness had a break, so that was fixed. 800.00 later... no ice... the ice maker was replaced...it made ice for 2 days and stopped. The water line from the bottom to the ice maker froze. That was cleared. Still no ice??? I am now thinking about the water control valve in the back of the fridge next. I should have gotten a new fridge. What else could it it be..... the water control valve??? The filter was replaced, and there is water coming out. I took the filter out, and the water still ran, and no ice? Any ideas. I am replacing the water valve next.
Hi I have the same frig the problem I'm having is it will start making ice good but later on in the night or some time of the day it will start dumping ice before is frozen and when I go to get ice the entire tray is frozen solid
It's not a "stretched" wire, but a "severe" design flaw by Whirlpool. It's been a pain in the butt. I know you can't say it, but I can and to anyone who is looking for a new fridge to be sure they solved the problem or at least made the repair easier than taking a door off.
Mine is a WRS......,had the ice maker replaced at 8 mo. under warr.. Now at 18 mo.the wires are cut at the bottom hinge. I guess the repairman didn't think it was in his best interest to check and reposition the wires. He wanted over $1200 for a new door, more than the cost of the frig ! I guess repairmen don't repair anything anymore. I will repair it, like many other things. If I remove the door can I plug it back in to keep the other side cool ? ?
Take a flat blade screwdriver and push in small plastic catch(near top)while you pull down. It’ll pop right off. When reinstalling slightly squeeze and push up, it’ll click in place.
hey thanks for your video, i am in the process of purchasing a new fridge, MAN lots of research and trying to find a unit that will last as long as possible as i am an american living in a 3rd world country and i am the tech guy for EVERYTHING with no parts available to boot! Anyway i am trying to decide between the whirlpool unit 24.6 cuft( Model #WRS325SDHZ) by side with Ice maker on the freezer shelf, or more space one 28cuft (Model #WRS588FIHZ) ice maker in the door. Any unit more reliable? I was also looking at the GE 25.3cuft (Model #GSS25GYPFS) Any thoughts on all the above i am all ears.... Thanks Again
My ice maker in the door ( Whirlpool) makes ice ever so often! Not very often. It will just kick on,shoot out ice and then it’s a long time before it makes ice again. Like a mind of it’s own. Any advice?
I just paid a repairman who also diagnosed bad heater in the door. Where you able to get it fixed? We were told the only fix is to buy and entirely new freezer door.
Mullion heaters work off of compressor and refrigerants charge you can bypass it and run a electric heater from parts house but you need to know how to braise steel to copper have all the tools plus you will need to put in new refrigerant
That's all iTunes would let me reply I would just get a hair dryer and heat it up or just put some Vaseline on it sounds like gasket going bad these appliances are built in for oblesence they all break just out of warranty watch video on light bulbs oblesence some going sinvce 1885 that's before they had a production facility that of a light bulb lasted longer than their predetermined time that company was fined thanks jp Morgan
This is the exact Whirlpool fridge my MIL has. But the problem she has was that the little door somehow must have gotten stuck open by an ice cube I'm assuming. It let room temp air in and the ice in the hopper started melting and leaked down soaked the auger motor shaft. When the ice cube holding the little door finally melted and the little door closed the melted water refroze and the auger was frozen in place. I disassembled the auger housing and the motor was frozen solid in a block of ice. After a few hours of leaving the freezer door to melt the ice, I dried everything up and now I can't remember the order I took everything apart. I've tried to Google assembly diagrams but I can't find anything out there. The model number for the fridge is WRS586FLDM00. If anyone has an assembly diagram, I'd sure appreciate it.
Great video with expert information, but why the hell would you try to narrate it while you're driving!?!?! You're trying to think about troubleshooting and the sequence of steps while you should be focusing on the road and all the things the idiot in the next lane could do. There is no such thing as multi-tasking. The most dangerous thing you do all day is driving to the next customer house. Please stay safe!
