We have a project board at my gym, and I've tried using it a few times, but I always feel rather lost trying to set my own boulders. It would be great to see a more in-depth explanation on what to set, and how to align it with movement goals. Thanks for the excellent session video Magnus!
Why do you need someone to tell you what to do? You've pretty much said it yourself. You called it a project board, do you have a particular project that you are stuck on for which you need to use the project board? If not, get one. With your project in hand, find your crux move(s) that are preventing you from achieving your project. Recreate that particular move(s) as closely as possible on the project board and practice it repeatedly until you can consistently perform the move and build the strength and coordination for that very specific move. Then try it on your project. That is what the board is mainly for.
magnus, when you're doing the planche you need to use your core muscles to get your upper back to the top position.. what you're doing now is unhealthy and can even be dangerous. While your upper back is parallel to the ground, you need to tuck your knees and apply as much pressure as you can on the shoulders in a forward movement while your elbows are straight , this is the element that makes your whole body straight above the ground . its not about kipping and and swinging , shoulder strength will keep your body straight
Or Segal yes i wouldnt recompensa that training he did, he tried to recreat the training the gymnast show es him, but I think he is nit strong enough to get profit forma this exercice. Remember to keep you elbows straight, try to hold the position with your lega tuck and do some reps of raises.
Bro for sure like there was this one time I tried to use momentum and i almost broke my left shoulder. It was scary as hell but yo your info is gold u earned a sub man
Ye the planche with bend arms is basicly not a planche. Got to keep Them arms straight. Probaly beter to start with weights and train some straight arm strength
Definitely should sort out the form first. A good way to start would be to train protraction of the shoulders and straight arm strength. For example by doing scapula push ups with straight arm, and planche leans with focus on protraction and straight arms. Check out Simonsterstrength, he's a former gymnast and ridiculously strong with impeccable form in the planche and handstand, his tutorials are great.
would love to see more chaos wall! Especially considering how good te one in Oslo is. Would also be nice to get some tips for training different things on one (Power endurance, creating "lead routes", and how to make different kinds of styles on it)
Yes. The chaos wall would just be a nice addition to your already excellent content. It would be nice to see your criteria to choose a certain route/hold - how and why do you choose certain holds and why not? And for the visualization, you could put circles around the holds when editing as that would make it very easy to see and understand the route.
DEFINITLY more of the chaos board in Oslo! I (and probably a bunch of other viewers) create their own porblems on chaos boards in their gyms and we would love to see your approach
Can't say I much care for the chaos board, but I'd like to see more chaos Magnis, like the split starter position that Normal girl made him use, and other weird stuff like that.
Markus did a great job on this one! I really enjoyed most of the music choices too, they were pretty chill and I can appreciate the proper audio mixing!
@@partykrew666 no, in the gyms I know, volumes just count if there is a hold of the color of the boulder on it (or next to it, touching it). Otherwise, if you add a volume to a boulder ,all other boulders in that area would be much easyie, because this volume counts for every single boulder. That sounds like bs to me
@@philipppuchner1115 that's why they usually reset a whole section of a wall at the same time; so the problems are created with the volumes in mind. At "my" gym if a volume is black it's always in; if it's not black it's only in for problems with the same colours.
@@begeistrat Yes, you're right of course. Sections of the wall are set at the same time. But still, if some boulders stand, and you are working on others, you are more flexible by instantly include (or exclude) a Volume to a Boulder by simply puting a screw on next to it. Or unscrew it later on, without having to more the volume or break other boulders.
@@PainfulPig Nope, it's hard and time consuming to get better once you are comfortable with climbing, but it's really easy to start. The progression is smooth and even until you reach a point where you have to be more regular and work on your body, but even before reaching that point you get to see a lot of moves and techniques by just going there and have some fun ! Trust me it's easy to start and reach 6A grades by just going there sometimes ! have fun ;)
@@PainfulPig it's really easy to start. Beginner routes are like climbing a ladder until you build up your confidence, strength and toughen up the skin on your hands
I always liked the videos you did of training on your chaos wall making up boulders and training on them. I really liked the video series of the breakdown week, i find that a super interesting training concept. It would be cool to see another
Hey Magnus, went for some bouldering in my local climbing gym this week. Thanks for the inspiration. First time everything was hard, but loving it. Getting to the top feels really good :D
I would really like to see you do some problems on the Moon board. It would be Nice to try some of the problems you are doing and this Way it is possible :)
I don´t know if someone commented it. And I don´t know how complex it is to make it work. But it would be awesome to see some chaos walls, where Markus @skaane is drawing circles or makes the edditing to see which holds are allowed and which your not allowed to use. I guess its costs a lot of time but it would make it awesome for us to watch.
I found the title a little off putting, I almost did not watch the video but boredom won. It made it seem like it would be all about the peg board but luckily it was only featured very shortly. I enjoyed it once again
If you like climbing in new gyms so much Magnus, I think it could be a good idea for a series of videos to come to America for a few 2-3 weeks and climb at several local gyms. We have about quite a few in the greater Houston area alone. If you do I recommend Inspire climbing gym in cypress TX. They have the tallest walls in the area maybe all of Texas. The is also some really good outdoor climbing in the Roundrock Texas area.
Mani the Monkey videos have a good way of editing to show boulder problems on unmarked/chaos walls. He takes a still frame of the wall and overlays different color circles to show the hand/feet holds, and talks through the problem, before showing an attempt. If you wanted to film more chaos wall but are worried viewers would get lost this would be a good technique. Can also check out his planche training stuff.
would love to see you put up an episode or two on the moon board. As a lot of gyms have them its something we can all watch and actually relate to and go and see the holds and see how insane it really is...
Magnus I'd absolutely love an episode on the Tension board! My favorite training tool! There's some absolutely vicious climbs on there, you should definitely give it a shot!
I think that in a kilter board you can also change the angle of the wall, something that probably isnt possible in the one in the video. Also those videos with the chaos board are really nice, you could make more of these.
What about a game of "add on" on the cave/chaos wall you mentioned (looking for ideas)? You go first, make a move, and then one of the Bobats or other high end boulderers "adds on" a move. Repeat. First team/person to fail to make a move, loses. You could wear a weigh vest to make it more even with lesser rivals!
I would love to see a video on the chaos board, maybe with a still shot that you can edit to highlight which holds are in for each climb you make? Kinda like what the kilter board would do, just an idea :)
More of that one wall that I’m not sure how to spell please lol - btw love your videos, I am not athletic and obese - but watching your videos makes me want to learn climbing
First. Btw i love your videos and i really want to be like you. I was in my first comp yesterday in Andenes in norway, Polarcup I hope you keep on doing what you do and inspire more kids and people like me.
@@Kurisou Way to go! I raced BMX at that age, and never had anyone in my age group to race, so I had to race 18-20 year old intermediate ranked racers. But they beat me by a ton, I never came close! LOL I still loved it though. Good luck on your future climbs! 🙂
Peg board is great for armwrestling. You have more variation in how far you wanna reach or how wide you gonna grip compared to a parallel grip pullup bar where handles are fixed
Expert climber. Absolute beast when it comes to pulling. Needs to work on pushing. Someone needs to show him how to planchette properly and needs to regress it for his level.
Hey Magnus, for the planche training you should try to keep your arms as straight as possible and to push upwards with your hips and abs instead of only swinging. Try to lean forwards and slowly raise your feet up, I personally get it better on the floor. Swinging is good only if you control the descent, if not you're basically only using the momentum and not actually building strength. You should also consider staying in the tuck position since you don't have that specific strength yet. Just swing to horizontal and try to stay there as long as possible with arms straight. Think of it like the inverse of a front lever, it's basically the same move but pushing up instead of pulling.
20:00 try to keep your arms straight when doing these tuck planche raises. planche leans and pseudo planche push ups are also great exercises. weighted dips will also improve general pushing strength which will transfer to things like planche. anyways it's cool that you want to improve these things since pushing often gets neglected if you are a climber. I also need to work on my pushing strength.
Maybe the parallel bar were too far between them. Should be a little bit less open (few more shoulders level) Very good video as usual. Thanks a lot for this share.
For me, I use a pegboard to train for NNL or National Ninja League, because that use pegs in a lot of their obstacles, though a lot of them are a lot more complicated than just straight up and down
Magnus on Tom and Juji: Yeah, I don't really remember technique and everything, so I can't really tell people what I did. Magnus on his channel: Use the swimming technique, tuck your thumb, flash the boulder, bring your body forward, *crack is on*
HI i really enjoy watching you bouldering, but in this video it was really hard to see which holds belong to which boulder and how hard it actually was. please mention the grades again. I would also like to know what you think of the grading systems in different gyms, what is the best system for you and how you think about different sets of holds within one boulder?
When the lights vibrate and looking weird like at 0:33 duplicate the futages set the visibility to 50% and place it ontop on the original bur whit a 1 frame delay ( or 2 it dipends the framerate you shot in) that shoud solve it. :)
Hey Magnus hopefully you see this comment. With your planche, make sure to keep you arms straight/locked so that you work those specific muscles. When you bend you arms you shorten your shoulder to hand radius so it makes it easier and you also assist yourself by stimulating more muscles whcihyou don't wanna do. Love the vids keep it up, ✌️
I would love to see a bit more active teaching with Marcus. Focusing on details like, what part of the holds to take, using what kind of grips. Letting us know what muscles should be active when you are doing it correctly. I think the chaos board might be good for a part of a video but I think your point about it being confusing is true.
Hey this goes to the whole climbing community as well as Magnus but I was hoping to get into climbing but I am currently still on the bigger side haha.. any advice for heavier climbers and new climbers?
