Woodturning for beginners birds mouth bowls in 5 easy steps 

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In woodturning the birds mouth refers to the shape of the rim resembling a baby bird getting fed. If I made the recurve more pronounced it would look more like it. Thanks for taking the time to watch.

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Thanks for allowing me to give you inspiration on your next turning project.

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Thanks for watching. Glad I could give some inspiration.

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Glad i could give you some inspiration.

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Thanks for watching. Sometimes i procrastinate on waxing that. I don't use it as much as i used to.

Thanks for the comment. Cracking happens when the end grain dries faster then the side grain. If you turn thin it speeds up the side grain drying to minimize the chance of crack forming.

I did not need to for this wood type but some types you may need to.

They did not crack around the pith i left in the walls. I turned the walls pretty thin so they dried fast enough to not form cracks. This does not work for all woods I wouldnt attempt this with cherry. Cherry will start to crack if you look at it the wrong way.

I use John Jordan hollowing tools. This one is a 3/8 inch that I made a handle. I have larger ones all the way up to 3/4 inch.

Thank you. I think it was around 1000 rpm for most of the turning.

The length would be the same as the diameter of the branch. It was around 3 inches I just eyeballed it. I turned it to a 1/8 inch wall thickness and put it in a paper until it was dry. Took about a week or so. The bag slows down the drying to keep it from cracking. Thanks for taking the time to watch.

@@BlackLabelwoodworks I put my turned green pieces in a plastic garbage can full of shavings. Works really well.

Its a 3/8 hollowing tool from John Jordan woodturning. It uses a 3/16 inch HSS bit.

You can turn it right away for something like this. If you keep the wall thickness less then 1/4 inch and put it in a paper bag or seal the outside it should dry without cracking. If your trying to dry a 6 inch diameter branch it will take years to dry and you will want to remove the bark. A rule of thumb for drying wood is a year per inch of thickness.

You can but you would still need to do some sanding after it dries. I got a reasonably good finish with my tools so sanding was not needed before it dried.

Yes you can do it with a bowl gouge. It just makes it easier to get under the narrow part with the goose neck. Here is a larger one I made were I used only a bowl gouge on the inside. I put a time stamp in at the inside hollowing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KVkvR_aAi-4.htmlsi=6RQOc9AihG2taQyX&t=426

@@BlackLabelwoodworks thank you

The rotary tool is the Foredom flex shaft power carver. The burr i used is a 3/4 inch kutzall ball nose extreme. I added links to the description.

Its possible i could have been a little off i only eyeballed it when drilling. The only purpose of the hole was to give my drive center a flat spot to sit on while i shaped the outside between centers. Thanks for watching.

All the tools i used are commercially made. I used a 5/8 bowl gouge from hurricane tools and the goose neck hollower was a 3/8 curved neck from John Jordan tools.

I prefer let wood just air dry after turning. It took 2 weeks to dry one week in a paper bag and one week out of the bag.

Not 100% sure but my best guess would be some type of locust branch.

Its not recommended to use a spindle gouge when your turning something cross grain. Face grain and end grain cut different and most spindle gouges are not built for it. Depending on how dry the piece of wood is you might be able to return to the lathe to sand. The piece i used was pretty wet and warped as it dried so sanding on the lathe would not have worked. You can use a small bowl gouge to hollow it out. It just takes a little more time and practice. Thanks for taking the time to watch.

@@BlackLabelwoodworks thank you for taking your valuable time to pass on information, it is greatly appreciated and absorbed into my filling system, thanks and have an absolutely banger of a weekend 😊 🙃🙃🙃😎😎😎👋👋👋🇦🇺

I wouldn't use an old file for a turning tool unless it's been annealed. Files are extremely hard but brittle as glass, if you have a bad catch they can shatter, potentially showering shards everywhere at high speed. A turning tool is softer and more resilient, they won't break. IF you know how to anneal the file then it could make an okay tool but modern HSS purpose made turning tools are a better solution.

@@rockranger3037 apologies forgot to ask, bloody brain injury they suck, is they anything i could use to make some till I'm able to buy any chisels as a disability Pensioner no money saving takes a long time, the files I used were freebies from places. Thanks Matt 🇦🇺

@@DeathMetalMusic-SavedMeI’ve seen some old timers use old files that have been reshaped as scrapers, but that’s about it. Like Rockranger said, they’re usually hard and brittle. Even if you were to shape them into scrapers, they’re not meant for hallowing or waste removal and I definitely wouldn’t let it wander from the tool rest too much or you really risk it snapping and coming back at you. No more than an inch overhang. As stated previously, don’t use spindle tools for bowl work. Spindle tools don’t have the strength for that and I’ve seen a couple of them get bad catches and just snap. Luckily, I’ve never seen one come back at someone, but at the very least it’s a waste of a perfectly good tool. The two exceptions I see a lot of the time are people using spindle tools for the straightening of tenons on the outside of bowls and the outside of bowl turning when you’re making an end grain bowl. Just the outside, though. Don’t attempt to turn the inside with a spindle gouge. If you are going to attempt bowl turning with a spindle gauge, keep a few things in mind when using them: - Keep the flute closed or mostly closed. Since spindle gauges are shallower, they’re at their weakest when the flute is wide open or sticking straight up on the tool rest. - ride the bevel. You’re probably at your safest when you stick to riding just the bevel with your cuts. - keep the spindle gauge close to the tool rest. Don’t let a spindle gauge get too much overhang, especially when wide open with the flute. - keep them sharp and use light passes. A good alternative to gouges, are carbide cutting tools. They’re extremely friendly to beginners and you don’t really have to worry about sharpening. The round cutting heads are usually the ones used in bowl turning, but the square and diamond shaped ones are good for forming tenons.

The bark was holding on so just the oil. If you want to you can use a little thin CA glue where the bark meets the wood to help hold it on.

to get a live edge rim profile that had 2 dips and high spots. It gets the name birds mouth because it looks like a baby bird at feeding time.

@@BlackLabelwoodworks ah- I see. Thank you.

You could leave the tenon but if the wood warps when it dries you would still need to hand sand. If you return it to the lathe you would only be able to sand the bowl part the wings would need to be hand sanded.

Hollowing tools with a hook make it easier to hollow out turnings that have an opening narrower then the rest of the body. This is the link to the hollowing tools i use. www.johnjordanwoodturning.com/small-hollowing-tools.html In this video i used the 3/8" hook tool the straight tool can be used for bottoms but is not needed with technique the hook tool can do the same thing. I just made a wood handle for this one but all my other larger ones go into a hollowing system. The cutting bits for these bars are high speed steel so they can be sharpened and narrow so they are easier to control.

Thanks for the interest. I will look on doing a video on my hollowing tools.

Then why did you stay for 15mins?

@@craigcook1571 I'm an optimis

Ass

You might want to watch some other videos on how to sand and finish on the lathe and how to remove the tenon on the lathe as well. You really can do that.

@@JLang-bn3hs I think I have forgotten more than you know