Worth it? Review of Walmart Dual 10 inch Powered Subwoofer with built in amplifier. 

Have 2 of the older models and the enclosure was better than the new one and tough as steel sounds pretty good too.Easy economic way to put bass into your vehicle.

You're right, it does sound really good for the price but if you push it, ie. High bass music, I find it shuts itself off. I probably prefer more bass than most in my music I guess.

@@TheCrazyracer1984 yea.i seen a kicker 10 with built in amp at walmart also for $192.00 ill bet its alot better.i wish i knew how it sounded.im thinking of buying one.do can you hook 2 of these up at once? Like just wire both speakers togather?

@@ninjagodzilla6402 Can you run an additional speaker off the boxed system? No. Can you run two amp set up? Yes. Two pioneer, JBL, Rockford fosgate, dual, etc, etc. Multi amp setups are pretty common. And kickers are pretty good, depending on power, they'll rattle the mirrors pretty good.

@@TheCrazyracer1984 yes thats what i meant.can i run 2 dual speaker amp combos off of the same system.

@@ninjagodzilla6402 You can run as many as you like as long as you run the power and signal to it. You will have to split the RCA signal or you can run as left channel and one as right channel. I tried it with mine and it only needs 1 RCA plugged in to work.

Thanks man

Does the amp get hot 🔥on yours

@@carlosmata564 yea I stay in Phoenix and my amp shuts off constantly in the summer

Broooo I was like "I know I'm not a damn idiot, why is this not working?!" Then I saw your comment and gave it a shot works flawlessly now. I owe you pp touches.

Hahah happy that made it work dudE!

Absolutely Not, these things sound like complete shit, they only like 80 to 100w also.

@@BenaresDarkness youre an idiot

@@damason724 Bullshit you stupid, my brother bought one and it sounded like ass even with the gains set right. I'm not bashing dual I had a 12 and it was louder than I thought it would be but it wasn't this, this right here is a waste of money. If you broke as hell and want bass really bad then buy it, but I'm never wasting my money on one.

@@damason724 And yes they are not 300 watts you stupid for believing it.

@@BenaresDarkness lol david dude just wanting to be a dick he must have that shitty speaker

What’s gain listed as on the amp?

Understood, but my head unit doesn't send out enough bass for my taste so I crank the gain to my liking and below the overheat.

@@masterofcupcakes2001 I don't remember the label but it was a little dial that could be turned up or down on the side of the speaker box

@@masterofcupcakes2001 It's says "Input Level".

Who thought you stole it?

The 760 doesn't do anything close to that, open it up once XD. It's good for the rear deck speakers. not efficient at all for running subs

I bought 2 for my truck, they work amazingly

Lmao 😊

That's good to know. I didn't see that one in store when I grabbed mine. With the heat sinks it should be able to drive harder without overheating.

It was measured by true power not peak power. True power is roughly .7 of peak power, almost half. And this will vibrate just that a home is quiet and sound will resonate. In a car, the rattle and road noise takes away from the clarity.

Well this is not even 300 watts it’s 300 watts peak rms (what it will normally play) is 100 if you read the back of the box. Peak does not matter rms is what you need to look at

@@datboi9035 I don't think it can do that. If you run full gain it will overheat.

@@IRecommendStuff yeah, mine got a short and blew the sub at the same time. I got a jbl basspro 12 and it’s great. I set the gain abt half way on it and it hits hard

no you don't, It's complete crap just like dual. Probably good thing the built in amp is tiny only 100w rms.

I don't remember the specs being in the manual but you already spent money on a nice JL sub, spend the $200 more and get a rockford fosgate punch amp. You'll be way happier long term. That amp will probably find it's way to your little brothers or girlfriends car and they'll love it too.

Thanks for the tip

They will connect together. You need to connect the powers together, so 3 red wires to 1 wire nut. the grounds together, 3 black wires to 1 wire nut. the remotes together, 3 blue wires together

Yes mine did

That'd be really cool! Did you guys meet restoring old tractors? I miss his channel. He was one of the reasons I posted a video. He was informative and entertaining. I learned a lot from him. You guys are really what RU-vid is about. Putting informative material in a format that is easy to understand just because it may help someone out down the road. Thanks for the comment!

@@IRecommendStuff same for you, I went to your channel because you had valuable info and stayed because you did a good job providing it. Shoot me an email with your info and next time I'm around ChuckE we will give you a call. Stephen Cox has all of ChuckE's old video And is going to re upload them to an archive channel soon.

That is actually a very good question. It is a mono system so my guess is that you can get away with using one or the other. It works if you only plug in one RCA. I'm not going to cut mine to find out but if you put one on and it doesn't work try putting both on. Please post results to help others with the same question.

Get one of these. You don't want amped power as an input to your amp it will cause problems. These are cheap and correct. (Speaker level to RCA adapter) it won't let me post the pic here

Just sounds like something went wrong internally. You can try and open it to see if some wires came loose. I imagine build quality will vary unit to unit. Does it work once you put a new fuse in then go out when you drive? Or it immediately burns out when it touches the contacts?

You need to have a wiring kit. There are no wires to connect the RCA or power or remote controls.

Good tip, you won't hit any fuel lines that way, but some cars run electrics under carpets you wouldn't see from the bottom. Best to double check inside and out.

learn.sonicelectronix.com/high-level-v-s-low-level-inputs/ some amps have that built in. 😉

@@IRecommendStuff okay I understand that but you said something about cutting rcas when you shouldnt have to... if you gotta cut wires to make it work its probably not built in

Do you mean if you plug into the RCA from an aftermarket deck do you still use all the wires on the plug? Yes, no matter how you do it, you need to connect all the wires. The RCA bananas will plug to the Sub box harness 2:17 and transmit the signal from the deck to the amplifier. The other wires are for powering up the amplifier. Red is +12V that comes from your battery, Black is ground to the car metal frame. AND Blue is the signal from the ignition to tell the amplifier when to turn on. You can find that at the back of your stereo.

Angel Canales on my PT250 I just straight up have the right and left + and - wires running parallel from the speaker wires coming out the radio to the other harness connectors. So I have three wires connected on each twist connect. No RCA whatsoever so you could do it. But to explain more, there’s the wires that power the radio itself, the speaker wires come out the radio and there’s twist connects connecting those wires to the other connectors with the harness. I initially took the wires out if one of the plugs and hooked the speaker to those but the amp cut out at and above 17% volume. The connections were fairly poor. Then I just connected the speaker wires where the other connectors met the wires from the radio and got a much more solid connection and the speakers work just as they should.

I think you're better off just buying a Dual brand SBX100 for less money and locally available also. It's just the sub and a box with no amp. You're making yourself a headache trying to make the all in 1 unit into a stand alone. It's just not worth the trouble. You also didn't specify what size amplifier but I assume a low wattage because you're considering this 300W Peak speaker.

blue wires are remote, red wires are power. black wires are ground. The power and ground will need an amp kit. the blue goes to the remote wire on your stereo.

Yes, this will boost your sound and it's not going to be a giant load on your alternator.

@@IRecommendStuff Thanks man. Fairly new to this stuff lol.

You can, but at that price and effort you may just want to buy the Pioneer TS-WX1210A . You will not have the overheating problems and your wiring will look a lot cleaner. It's only a few bucks more than buying two duals but less work than wiring up 2 amps.

@@IRecommendStuff I went with JL’s and a pioneer deck.

Bass is clean but not meant to rattle windows or set off car alarms.

It does help keep it away from engine heat. And it makes installing Subs easier. Win win.

@@IRecommendStuff Fr setting up underglow was so much easier with the battery in the back

Yes, Bobby Focus Mk2 said he threw a kicker in there and did just fine. I personally wouldn't go through the trouble with this unit but you guys seem to have time on your hands. Good luck. 👍

@@IRecommendStuff due to this comment I will probably pull the trigger on this. I have an F150 with a stock radio system and plan on purchasing a head unit in the future. A little more bass would be nice but I don't need too much. This would be great for me now and later on I can upgrade the sub itself but I am limited on space and this fits perfectly where I want a sub at. I have an extended cab truck and I need the backseat for storage so this would fit great. Plus with the integrated amp it will be much easier to install for the time being

Yes. As many as you like actually but you have to buy a splitter. This system does not have RCA out so you can't daisy chain them.

@@IRecommendStuff Can you give some more details on how to do this? Thanks

If you really want more bass instead of wiring two then you could just buy 1 bigger/stronger sub. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker and Pioneer have complete kits available with more power and for just a few more bucks than trying to set 2 or more of these up. You're going to waste your time and money trying to wire up 2 cheap as hell subs when you could just get 1 for a lot less headache. Opportunity cost, my friend. Look into it.

Blue wire is from the blue wire on your head unit. Most times called remote. Sometimes called antenna. It is 12v bias to turn on when car is on.

@@IRecommendStuff Before cars came with computers to handle everything, there was a wire that would come from your deck that went to the power antenna. That's why it is usually called PANTENNA or something to that effect. When you turned on your radio it would make that wire hot and that would roll up your power antenna. Turn it off and it would retract. Amps use this to prevent killing the battery from leaving it on. You can technically put a switch on the main power and use it like that but you would have to remember to turn off the switch when you got in and out. Lastly you can run a line from the 12v keyed ignition cable that turns on and off with your keys. This way if you want it all on you can do that without the ignition being all the way on, and most times this will also allow the system to be played without the engine running.

With the wires.

@@kingdomabraham2803 I was thinking I needed a separate power wire . Thanks much

@@TheAlshammary20 yes you need separate wires from amp to each speaker.

@@kingdomabraham2803 sounds good . Any idea what the wires label would be ? -+input output

I think you should watch a video on how to connect an amp. It's not something that can be explained in comments. If you're still confused, pay somebody. You might cause damage to your car or system and you'll be out that money anyway.

Mine hasn't died, my guess is for the low cost, quality control is pretty relaxed.

What do you mean? Run wires all the way from the head unit? I think you still have to snip your RCA if you don't have banana sockets. Unless you're going to use a converter. But this is the cheapest kit you can buy. I doubt anyone is going to spend extra time or money to do that. That's like 25% of the cost just to keep RCA intact. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.

@@IRecommendStuff no snipping RCA's....get an outline converter tap it into the speaker and connect your RCA to it.

@@G_KODE_1911 the cheapest converter I was able to find is 10 bucks. Or you could wire nut/crimp/electrical tape the amp and speaker wires. I think the person that's buying this speaker and the level of install they want done is cheapest possible but rca converter is an option.

I havent seen any all in one systems that go that high for a single speaker. At that level your speaker will be thumpin. You're going to need a quality speaker and amp to avoid distortion from a weak cone and overheating from a weak amp. Theres plenty of choices just up to you on preferences.

Yes, but you may hear distortion and it may cut out for overheating if you crank it. I do not recommend this sub to simulate an aluminum can in the back of your car.

Yes, Mine is still working and it sounds just fine. It's in my commuter car so I'm not trying to impress anyone, I just needed a little extra for the drive home. If you want to build a system piece by piece then stay away from this unit. It's not upgradable, it doesn't have the quality or options for future expansion. i.e. line out, normal power lugs, heat sinks. This is like buying the insignia brand instead of the skull candy.

Yeah back in the day everything was RMS ratings. Now it's all listed as PEAK. It used to run an off brand 12 in my bronco.

@@IRecommendStuff I know it's crazy. Peak means nothing. Rms up to clipping is what matters. And having head room on rms numbers is crucial. Selling something that is irrelevant seems to be game

@@IRecommendStuff all the bad brands are peak My subs and amps are all rms 750 w rms 15 on 700w rms

At 1:50 you can see the picture of how it's supposed to be wired. It assumes you are using a standard amp wiring kit. It's color coded to make it as easy as possible.

@@IRecommendStuff the amp kit I got just has a manual that’s black and white showing what wire goes where and doesn’t explain anything

@@ToxicKnight-pe3hg argh. cheapness. Red wires are +12 and will go to battery. Black wires need to go to car body. Blue wire needs to go to stereo. Blue wire from stereo will let know amp when to wake up and start amplifying.

It's all about the install. If you take your time you can make it look clean but if it's that important to you and you're going to spend that time then get a better system. This is the bottom of the line cheapo. Work car or truck, your daily beater.

Yea doubt it

@@damason724 oh i see u must of just just got one so I'm taking it u got a $30 dollar radio to bud?

@@evelynkennedy6811 show me a radio that pushes over 300 watts from a single channel. I bet yours dont. Head units dont push power like that.. thats what amplifiers are for. Bud

@@damason724 Pyle PT560AU

@@evelynkennedy6811 thats 150 watt per channel head unit. I bet it would power it beautifully.... 😉

If you're looking for a "good" system, yes. It's ok if you want the cheapest thing out there and don't care about features just a little extra sound.

@@IRecommendStuff thanks cause I'm actually looking for something decent I'm not really looking for anything crazy just a clean loud enough bump to hear from the outside of the car I'm currently running 2 12s and a 8 but I'm looking to add a bit more

I'm broke. I drive an Aveo and a Fiesta. I'm not spending more on speakers than what the car is worth

Worth it for me. Easy to find locally in stock. Improves the sound of a cheap car stereo. Bottom line, cheap.

The crossover was set and was not passing full vocals as a large speaker would. I did; however, lose quality because my head unit doesn't filter vocals on the RCA output. Good enough for a cheap sub on your beater car. Not good enough to impress and audiophiles. Get what you pay for.