Yamaha FZ1 Rotor Magnet Failure ( Part 2 ) installing the new Rotor 

What's going on brother!!! I see i did the same thing on mine i don't like the fact that Yamaha didn't make this a recall it was their fault. Very expensive to replace here in USA

Firstly, thank you for this "how to" video. I live in Canada and have a 2007 R1, I decided to proactively change the rotor even though mine looked fine at 22k. I didn't see the need to replace the stator so just did the rotor. I had 3 options, $950.Cnd for OEM, or $250 for the RM or Kimpex (China Made) replacement. I called RM Stator first but they were unfortunately resistant to answer my questions, I found their customer service poor. I ordered a Kimpex brand one which looked exactly the same as RM Stator's. The rotor looked decent but had improper machine tolerances, the spacer didn't fit over the shaft - some people apparently sand it down but I didn't feel comfortable doing this, nor should you need to if machined properly. Additionally, it fit too loosely when seated in the bearing. Returned for OEM. BTW the OEM has updated this part and it does look slightly different than these Chinese knock offs. In a high HP, high RPM engine, I'd buy Japan made OEM... just my opinion. Good luck & stay safe!

Simple question, did the engine light come on, when you first had problem?

Guys . I went to the link.. My bike is a 2010 model... They dont have it . Any other place you would know ? Thanks

Hello , my fz1 has the stock flywheel but i plan to change it before the damage comes , do you trust this new flywheel? I checked it on the site and its not the original one but hey , the price is so good. in greece it costs 420-450 , did you compare it to the original?

Exactly the same happened to me 3 days ago... Question, did you have to open the engine in order to make sure there weren't remainings of the magnets inside it? Thx

O maior defeito conceitual é a utilização de imãs de neodímio ferro boro. Eles não aguentam a temperatura do motor. Com a temperatura do motor próxima da temperatura máxima de trabalho dos imãs de neodímio, eles perdem a magnetização. Com isto a tensão elétrica gerada cai, para suprir a potência elétrica, a corrente sobe, gera aquecimento das bobinas do estator, a temperatura sobe ainda mais, enfim, descolam, travam o motor. Os imãs tem que ser de samário cobalto para suportar a temperatura do motor. Este tipo de imã aguenta até 350ºC

Rotor Magnet Is it from China, Alibaba website or Japan?

Hi mate. I’m about to do the same job on mine - is yours still going strong?

did more get destroyed or just the rotor which you switch ? thx for the video