Had my TrailBlazer at least 10 times in the shop because of a P0014. I noticed the chocolate mayonnaise in my airbox. I regularly clean the nasty throttle body and change the oil every 3 to 4 months to avoid the P0014 popping up. No matter what the shop did, or I did fixed the problem. Just picked up a new Variable Valve Timing Solenoid today and get the oil change done tomorrow. I will try your cleaning advice as well since I am very confident that's causing the problem. I really appreciate this fantastic video! Will keep you updated.
hi sir, I just want to ask, how is the wire of the throttle valve plug of the mitsubushi lancer 2001 model 4g92A engine connected in a row, the socket is broken, so the wire is confused, I hope you can help me. I can attach it to the right one, thank you
Great question and this presents me with an opportunity to speak about "diversity in design" that is afforded engineers who need to accomplish the same things (transportation - safe and reliable transportation mind you) of diverse people-types, and yet offer brand differentiation so you can have a personal choice from all the vehicles that are on the market. Here's where things both go different directions and yet are pretty much the same ---> there are just so many different way to achieve the same end result: transportation as the biggie. A Mistubishi will, in fact, comply with the known-workable rules of product improvement coupled by what the bean counters say they can afford, to achieve uniqueness and design differences. Surprisingly, there are access ports that provide what you need to fix your vehicle: pinouts of various connectors for a huge amalgam of vehicles all vying for attention in the market. Go here and drill-down to your vehicle and to the area of your needs. You will have so much information that it may seem like overload - but this is what today's mechanics face --- an overload of systems that are more complicated now than the Moon Landing of Apollo 11. Link here ---> charm.li/
@SurferJoe46 the 08 trailblazer had an updated longer exhaust, clogged up both of them, swapped them out with a cheap ebay special pipe and unplugged the upper sensor, purrs like a kitty now lol
How did you get it off I tried but when it goes dwn it goes back up when I release it and also it super hard not like a regular hose like soft squishy... is that bad
It's old - it's never been serviced - yes it's hard and bad. Cut it off and replace it with a new piece - you do not need a factory formed hose - ANY Green Stripe Emission hose of the correct size will work. All legally-CORRECT emission hoses are measured in 32nds of an inch - but this has been discussed at great length in other posts on this YT video comments section.
There is a vacuum booster line --- and there's a CV hose too. Look closer and see for yourself --- and yes --- there is NO PCV "valve" --- that's well established already.
Hey wat sup surfer joe , wat do u mean buy short hopping i think my oil was burning ihad smoke comin out dip stick i pur some b12 down but now smokin now ty ihav the same car
"Short-hopping" means to drive less than 5 miles - never really getting the engine up to - and holding - normal operating temperature on a regular basis. Don't pour B12 directly into the engine crankcase. it is dangerous because it can free up particles of cooked deposits that can ruin bearings, the oil pump and the cams/lifters. It can also thin the oil to such a low viscosity that it ceases lubricating critical surfaces. When you pour some B12 into the CV side of the PCV system, you are working in the air-intake side of the engine and not directly inside the crankcase/lubrication circuit. That's why I said to do it as I did ....in the "Mystery Hose" only.
This solved my "cold start rough idle" issue! I used Gumout C&C cleaner spray. Also, I added a 90° elbow to the 1/2 ID pcv house from the driver engine because even a new house would crease in that tight spot.
If this is the problem will it cause stalling a idle? once mine gets up to running temp it stalls at idle? i do have oil coming into my air intake box! Was thinking head gasket just not sure i do not get any codes. I wish i could just turn the idle up! lol Also i have a new pcv valve coming that is on the valve cover any thoughts on how that will come out without breaking and going in the valve cover?
1. There is no PCV valve. You cannot buy one - nor does one exist --- but I guess some unscrupulous persons might sell you one. 2. Oil in the box is because of positive pressure in the crankcase because the PCV is not working. 3. Stalling after warm-up can be from the MAF or BMAP not sending valid metrics to the engine management system (PCM) 4. Bad metrics from the BMAP or MAP is because the PCV is not working. 5. Idle speed is baked-into the computer - it is not adjustable - don't even try. 6. Don't lower the river, raise the bridge by fixing the obvious problem first.
I am on a 2-month service schedule now since I have successfully cleared the passageways sufficiently so it works very well. I am not due for another service until June-something. During the next service I will try to remember to create another video of the process. It has not been necessary to adjust oil changes to a shorter schedule because of cleaning the CV ports - the B12 never really gets near to the crankcase either as a liquid or a vapor ... I guess the fumes MIGHT get there if I let it sit overnight, but they rapidly flush away with the PCV operating correctly anyway when the engine runs a very short time --- so I think that's a non-issue.
As a little more info --- the logic probe is simple --- but it is not simplistic in that it can test both power and a ground on a circuit and that's it's magical value. If you have a switch, a fuse, a motor or any electronic device on the circuit you are testing, it can make diagnosis of whatever the malfunction is - really simple. That's what I tried to accomplish here --- keep it simple so anyone can see the basics and grow their own abilities from there. Enjopy.
Is there no pcv valve? I have an '07 Trailblazer with starting issues. Battery, starter, spark plugs, alternator, fuel pump, gas cap are all good. I've seen many recommendations to change the pcv valve to fix my problem but I can't find one.
This is the most explanatory video I have seen on RU-vid! thank you very much Joe Vreeland, you sound like a college professor. I have a question, this PCV system, according to your explanation, is clogged (on my 4. 2L) because there is no INHALATION through the hole in the valve cover and SOME SMOKE LEAVES, leaving some oily residue (it is not a whitish emulsion) in the "air box". There is not so much oil that it frequently fouls the throttle body. The engine is tuned today with clean injectors, new spark plugs and coils (OEM), it does not vibrate, It runs silently, it has a lot of power but the RPM does not go above 500 at idle to the point that it turns off after about 20/30 seconds of being idle but it starts well, could the semi clogged or clogged PCV system cause the engine to stall? The scanner does not leave any code. Maybe you can answer me, thank you very much!
Gosh ---> there are numerous reasons why this can happen - and I am on a great site that specializes on these engines and their driveability problems .... www.trailvoy.com/ ---> c'mon over .............
Hello , I just just sprayed out my Hose like you said and had air into manifold hose and Air coming back out from my left side vent hose , but im not getting a Vacuum on my Oil stick what could else be plugged up ?
I'm not clear on what you mean by "spraying" as I never said to use the spray version of B12; use the LIQUID version and pour some into the hose, reattach the hose, start the engine after a short time. Are you sure you have air coming out the left side hose? I ask because you are supposed to pour liquid B12 into the left hose. Remember --- the left side of the engine is the driver's side as if you are sitting in the car sitting behind the wheel. The only thing that will restrict the air flow is that the passageways inside the head intake runners --- are full of hardened gunk. It may take several --- many --- a lot of treatments to get it to start working if it's never been cleaned or kept clean for years by now. Make sure the engine's up to normal temperature before you put the B12 into the hose --- and let it sit because the vapors are very aggressive if you let it boil for a bit. Repeat at least a few times - weekly if possible until things start getting cleaner and cleaner. .
Huh what I meant Sprayed I used Carburator Cleaner and the used an Air Hose when I did the Air spray Air came out the other PVC hose on the right side of Motor PVC but still no Vacuum on my Oil Stick , P0171 code and P030 O2 sensor code something seems Plugged up still in Motor > You think it could be the Head Intake runners , I did Add some Rislone to clean Motor and used some Fuel cleaner .@@SurferJoe46
@@lassiejr2115 I'm still confused. There is NO PCV hose on the right side of the "motor" as you put it. There IS a KV hose - the short "S-shaped" hose that goes between the air-sound deadening chamber and the valve cover however. Is this the "PCV" hose to which you are erroneously referring? "Carberetor spray" is not the correct liquid to use. Specifically, I said: "Berryman's B-12" is correct as it is very much more aggressive than other chemicals in this application. You state that "something seems plugged up still in (the) motor" and I cannot reason how you came to that idea because the P0171 means you have a Fuel Trim System Lean condition in Bank 1--- and no way can a defective/inoperative PCV system cause that. Your P0303 is also NOT caused by a defective/inoperative PCV system. FYI --> P0303 indicates a problem in #3 cylinder --- but it is not suggesting any cure or deeper diagnosis in that cylinder --- it just says there is something wrong in how #3 cylinder is performing --- and that may actually be a red herring too. P0303 is not a malfunction from a bad/ineffective PCV system --- it is related to only one cylinder and the PCV system involves ALL cylinders and cannot just pick on one or two ---- You are in over your head I think and are not categorically NOT following my instructions and you are making wild a$$ assumptions that are not logical nor part of helping the PCV to return to a good working condition. These codes are another problem entirely NOT related to the PCV system,
@@lassiejr2115 DANGER ---> Using Rislone or any other magic-in-a-can cleaners or additives is totally counterindicated for this engine. This engine needs FLOW, not pressure as it meters the oil to the many zones it is needed and adding something that cleans and changes the viscosity of the oil can be extremely damaging to this engine. Stop using these chemicals in the crankcase! You are harming your engine.
This is how a mechanical info diy video is perfected to a t. Thank you. But quick question and Hopefully you can get back to me soon. To where your reply would be useful. Where does that hose go because in me taking it off? To pour Barrington into it, the hose cracked and I don't see no way of getting it off. Except taking the computer off. Then taking the crank case cover off. And i'm no mechanici'm a d I yer 😂
The top of the hose goes to the plenum and the bottom goes to the intake runners. You don't need as much clearance as you think. You can destroy the old hose - but have the new hose ready. The new hose is available in bulk --- you do NOT have to buy an exact replica with a GM part number on it. Once you get the clamps off, cut the hose off if it won't slide off easily. Then you can replace it with a new piece. It is really simple. In most cases, the new hose won't need clamps --- it's not going to leak. Use: BERRYMAN'S B-12 Chemtool. I have no idea what "Barrington" is.
Maybe I should say that you can just cut this hose off and replace it with a new piece of bulk hose from a parts store. You do NOT need a factory formed hose --- it's almost perfectly straight - so that idea should be off the table. Cut the old one off if it resists at all! Hose clamps, although pretty - are not even needed to hold it in place --- there's no pressure in it so it doesn't need to be clamped on.
Remember this isn't clraning the injectors or fuel system; it's trying to dissolve caked and baked on crud and deposits from years of neglect. I understand that Chevron Techron is another good solvent, but I've never used it. B12 I know; others not much at all.
..... and the mystery goes on ....... I added some 2x4 LED ambers to my prerunner bumper and they operate from the upper switch - I just grabbed the wires after the relay to do it and they work just fine. One thing is that they go OFF when I hit the high-beams. I can live with that. Still no idea about the lower switch --- I guess it's more of a "rocker" than a "toggle" though. The upper is a Push On-Off.
Liquid is not the same as spray - although the chemicals in both are the same - it's just a lot cheaper to pour a liquid than to squirt a mist into the hose and/or nipple.
Then get a sharp box cutter type knife and carve it away until it slides off. It IS replaceable from a parts house as a bulk Gates Green Stripe Emissions Hose. Remember that Emission hoses are sold in 32nds of an inch inside dimensions. It should look like 19/32: or 21/32" or something like that. Be sure to use the liquid version not the spray unless you want to have a lot of empty cans around.
Hey Joe. Thanks for the great video. Listen, My 2009 trailblazer makes loud exhaust noises on passenger side of engine which go away to a certain degree after the car warms up. I was told by a mechanic that these vehicles are notorious for developing exhaust manifold cracks. Can that be right? I have a feeling that it could be the expansion "donut" seal where the exhaust manifold ties to the rest of the exhaust system. What do you think?
Unfortunately the exhaust manifold has issues with breaking bolts and cracking. Once you hear noise from there it needs an intervention. The donut doesn't seem to be a big problem though.
I've been trying to find out what a logic probe does, this is the best explanation so far, and all the information I require. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Cheers, Darren
The video lacks Hollywood editing, but the way the probe works is all in there. I tried to keep it non-technical so it was easier for perople to grasp - and perhaps I made it a little too simple.
well --- it really doesn't need a clampn becauae there is no pressure - only vacuum so chances of it blowing off is very very remote. So if there's no clamp there - it should be just fine unless the hose has somehow deteriorated or some dimbulb put a piece of heater hose on there. ALL emission hoses have a green stripe and are measured in 32nds of an inch. They are impervious to the fumes, heat and general pressures and vacuums of the emission system. GATES hose is particularly strong and they were the first company to use that green stripe and all the other hose companies fell into step.
I have this engine. i cleaned the TB a few years ago when i got the vehicle and from what i remember it was not that dirty. Recently My vehicle will surge and drop RPM at idle bouncing between 500-1000 rpm the computer will kick and and hold it at 1000 eventually if it doesn't level out around 600 like it normal does. Could the PCV be causing this or do you have suggestions on other things to look at? Im going to take it apart and clean the TB this weekend and use come Barrymans in the PCV. i have about 175000 on it.
Up front, there are no "mechanical" devices in the PCV system --- in that, nothing "internally" moves either by an actuator or of it's own design. It is a static device that is affected by two distinct conditions: 1) the position of the throttle plate and 2. the amount of vacuum being created by engine RPM and somewhat less-significantly, roadspeed and horsepower load. >On and of the road speed thingy ---> since the nearest "device" to affect roadspeed is the throttle and just coincidentally: the desire of the operator --- the throttle position is not considered a causative, but is the results of the final vacuum values the engine can create for whatever conditions exist. (I know --- that's just a tadbit confusing) > On the #1 consideration ---> the Drive-By-Wire throttle plate(s) --- is/are not directly connected in the good old fashioned way with a rod or cable to open and close it to the whims of the driver. It is actuator-controlled by the throttle motor-positioner computer that has been programmed (mapped, really) to keep the vacuum inside the plenum to certain predetermined levels. This is done by constantly adjusting the amount of throttle plate opening while sensing the vacuum IN THE PLENUM and applying mathematical wizardry to set the throttle to the best-place setting that achieves acceleration and still keeps the PCV system working under a sustainable vacuum. Remember that blowby is greatest at the times when the pressures are ramping up inside the combustion chamber during accelersation and that's when the PCV has to be able to capture and reburn those gasses. This is primarily why you cannot snap the throttle open and run up to red line without the vehicle being in motion. Sitting still and revving the engine will be sad, to say the least if one likes to hear the intake roar ... 'cause it won't. Now --- what device has such strong powers to limit the throttle opening? > Well --- ultimately it's the computer - but it is only going by the numbers it gets fed from the sensors on the engine --- and a biggie here is the MAP or BMAP (if you have one or the other --- but you do have one or the other) - as it "reads" the piezzo voltage from the sensor that you have. This corollarates to a mapped-in program variable that the GM engineers have computed to be the best position for the throttle plate under "normally good conditions". This "good condition" is a preferred sweet spot for the throttle and the PCV to operate in - controlling the blowby by their premapped syncopation. When the PCV system is not working well - or correctly - then the vacuum metrics are all over the place and the computer relates to that by running a Hail Mary in a very subdued manner by not maximising the performance and economy that the vehicle was intended to operate under - or at all --- just to keep it running. IOW --- with the PCV not working or almost failing so, and the vacuum metric is off the maps (of the computer) then the vehicle can be said to be operating in a not-as-designed mode and it hurts performance and at least we should not forget ---> economy. /
I apologize for any typos in the above post as I was "typing" on a make-believe keyboard on a small tablet that afforded me a lot or typos and go-back corrections. I don't know how the line-out happened - but it's there and I don't know what it was that I did to cause it. I also cannot get back to the post to edit it --- somehow that power is not being afforded to me.
Thank you so much for this video. I have cleaned and replaced my throttle body, map, and clutch sensor a couple times to fix this issue. Even all of my spark plugs and direct ignition coils. This year it still had the random misfires and rumbles after all the changes. I finally thought maybe it was the pvc. It was acting just like a 3800 series 2 v6. First start of the day works great. After warm up acts horrible but darn sure not a bad gasket. So finally looked up where the pvc is on the 4200 and found your video. After following your instructions. Warmed up the engine, filled tube, put tube back on and let sit for 30min, wamred up engine again and repeat. After doing this four times it seems to have cleared out the pvc system and now works great through the day. So thank you so much for this video. I was losing my mind until i remembered the pvc sytem and found your video.
By far the best video about the subject. People seem to love to "bypass" the standard system because they have no clue how it works. Ill have to clean out my system because my intake resonator gets oil in it from time to time.
You have to warm up the engine, fill up the tube and connect the tube and let it sit for 30 min. Turn over the engine and let it warm up again and do it again. I did mine four times and then it worked great the first time. If it still doesn't work then check your throttle body, air sensor map, and clutch position sensor.
Most carb cleaners are not as aggressive as B12. It may take more 1. cleaner, 2. patience, 3. money t get the same results. It can't help --- but if it will help enuff --- I got nuttin'.
