You Won't Believe What Has Caused So Many Problems With My CNC Plasma Table! 

Regarding your moisture problems: Your copper pipe on the wall is a good first step. It does not need more hose between the copper pipe and the compressor. The hose (unlike the copper pipe) provides almost no cooling as the hose material is a poor conductor of heat. To determine the effectiveness of your copper pipe, get an infrared thermometer (about $25). Measure the temperature of the copper pipe near the inlet and outlet while air is flowing. If your outlet temp is near reference temp (for reference use a short piece of copper pipe not connected to anything, This corrects for things like emissivity errors) you have done all that you can do with the pipe or any other form of radiator cooling. Your moisture separator looks a little small to me for the volume of air you are using. Next and perhaps most importantly you do not have moisture separation after the regulator. Any reduction in pressure results in air expansion and cooling. With air flowing you will find there is a cooling effect from the air expanding through the regulator. You can use the IR temp measurement to prove this. This cooling causes condensation to form in the regulator. All restrictions in flow cause expansion which cause cooling. Put a separator immediately following the regulator. I would leave the separator prior to the regulator if it is catching moisture. But move the desiccant filter to after the last separator. Improvements beyond this will require some form of refrigeration. A refrigerated dryer will solve everything. You could use a coil of copper pipe in a bucket of ice water followed by a water separator to prove this. This would also show you how much water is getting through your system.

I've been running a CNC plasma cutter for about 15 years now. Your cuts look fantastic! The hypertherm tips are leaps and bounds better than what you were running before. the amp rating of the tips correlates to the size. 80 amp tips have a larger hole and require more air than a 40 amp, and the 40 amp fine cut takes even less. as for preventing the slag getting stuck to the end of the nozzle, its the pierce height. idk on your exact software, but on the plasmacam there is a pierce time and pierce height. when the torch initially cuts, before it blows through the material it splashes back at the torch. cut a chunk of 1/2" material and you'll see. A high pierce height prevents the slag sticking to the tip as much. The air supply dryer you have is leaps and bounds better than what we use and we don't have that issue. I'd be suspect of the air supply inside the machine not being large enough. That looks like the airflow is inadequate to me. not blowing the arc out of the tip and arcing further up. If you can, crank up your post flow timer. EDIT: just hit the end of the vid and saw the o-ring. Good catch!

This is really informative.

Looking good! I’m also chasing some bevel on my cuts. I’ll have to check that O-ring. I have the XR and the same Plasmadyn torch you got. Works great.

The transmission cooler was the best upgrade I have done for reducing air temps and condensing the air. Cheers.

Nice simple solution, excellent

Great work since day 1

Let’s hope it works out

Absolutely awesome news you will be accepting custom orders! Look forward to sending you business soon!

For what you have spent in copper, hardware, filters, and time, your could have bought the Harbor Freight refrigerated air dryer and been done with it. A refrigerated dryer is really the only way to go for fool-proof dry air. And the HF dryer is proven to be a good performer.

I wonder if the bevel is on the side that is cut last before the part is finished. So when that cut is being made the weight of the part being cut causes the part to sag just slightly therefore causing the bevel? I'm also wondering if the water is too close to the part. So when it's cutting, the water is splashing on the part causing it to cool quickly and leaving the dross behind. Maybe try raising the part higher above the water? Just a couple of wild guesses.

Transmission cooler is a definite upgrade and make your valves on your copper pipe way longer less likely for turbulent air picking up moisture. Hypertherm is king in plasma cutting IMO

Install a condenser and water trap between your compressor head and the tank, it keeps the majority of water from even reaching the tank to begin with! I did this to mine and very little water comes out my tank drain anymore.

I built a 5x10 table with a power max 85 the hypertherm electrodes are worth the money. Once you get the table tuned you will be amazed how long they last. Never counted the peirces (was alot) but with fine cut consumables I did almost two sheets of 16 GA.

On your home made cooler have the small lines t into a bigger line like 2” or 3 inch. When the air comes out the small line into the bigger pipe the air will loose velocity and the moisture should fall out.

I was just wondering if you have cut any 1/2" MS or 5/8" and if so what were your cut settings. Thanks

I may have missed it does your air Compressor have an automatic tank drain on it? They are only like $30 on eBay Mount a switched outlet in a handy place and cycle it a few times when you turn on the compressor to dispel the overnight condensation, then set the cycle times to match your conditions.

Some guys put a transmission cooler mounted on the compressor fan and put the air through it before it goes into the tank. 😎😎😎

Have you had the chance to cut some 1/2” with the cut 60? I have the sample table and plasma cutter and struggling hard with getting it to cut. Seemed like I was starting to get it dialed and then it was acting like the plasma cutter wasn’t producing the amps it says it is. Just curious if you had recommended settings. Thanks.

Saw your red truck for sale in Boise Idaho, Really tempted to buy it!

by no means am I and Expert, but it looks like you are going from your compressor straight to your tank. If I'm not mistaken you need to go into your Inter-cooler or cooler before the air enters the tank. This way the Hot Compressed air gets cooled before going into the tank and then into the Air lines to your filters/tools.

How did you get that primeweld to work. I was using one for a while and loved the cut quality. But I was getting interference and kept smoking torch height controller. I ended up with a 45xp and I’ve never gotten it dialed in.

I know this will sound stupide, but did you consider getting a bigger air drier for your air system?

nice

I would love a black Toyota hitch cover

we run a refrigerated dryer and dryer filters on both sides of that and never a drop of water. It's not that expensive to do and has auto drain valves

You should use copper straps for those pipes not what you used that will cause corrosion overtime and cause holes

You might wan to try adding second 80 gal air tank it will reduce heat and add capacity

could you use a anti spatter spray on the nozzle?

Just barely lookin at this video, but have you looked into a high point air water separator? An air dryer? Arc blow? 🤔

you should buy a 3d printer for custom dash piece and more. love the content btw.

Do you still have the 1.9 Toyota?

Ingersoll-Rand D-18IN I have zero moisture

I would love to get a hitch cover from you in bronze if you still have one. I aslo was hoping I could pick yout brain on your f150 spring swap on the toyota pickup. i cant weld welll enough to trust it for suspention. I want to hire a guy to come out and weld all my hangers on. do you have the measurments of where you welded in the new hangers? if so It would help a lot

Just add tabs to your pieces so they don't fall into the water.

A refrigerated air dryer will solve any humidity issues.

I see your using the kanji version of toyoda

Has "tech support " from the company been of any assistance ? I know you are very capable and very DIY. But just curious how much the company tech support has helped. Since you are using it on your RU-vid. I am a little surprised someone hasn't reached out to you or showed up to assist... Be nice once you get it dialed in.

raise ya water level also bro, under side of plate

the fj40 please

My torch fires by hand but it doesn’t fire on its own when running a program ? Im lost

Does the manufacture of your plasma table not offer a tech to come out and troubleshoot your table?

Not a cheap fix but just get a hypertherm unit, beats the Chinese cutters 100x over!

I can’t get my machine to respond to the computer (laptop)

👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽

Доброго здоров'я привіт з України!

If I have money left over from my disability check, I will buy some of your stuff

Your Ts are the wrong direction. Air should go into the T and not the way you have it.

Wow. Showing off all the trademark infringement you've been doing. That's basically theft. You should be proud.

Be careful with the Toyota stuff. I think you're asking for trouble selling copyrighted stuff.

you know what you need next? a 3D printer!!

Austin, I had a lot of problems w/ moisture and this is how I solved it check it out and le me know what you think ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H1mlpSj6BAc.html I know many people use this type of set up when using a lot of air, like when sandblasting and it makes a huge difference. I used to get a lot of moisture when using my air sanders and even when painting, I don't have that issue anymore

Don't use water under the table 😺

1st!

why yell into the microphone like that, change the intonation.

Absolutely awesome news you will be accepting custom orders! Look forward to sending you business soon!