Gracias por tus videos he aprendido mucho y sigo viéndolos varias veces!!! Ojalá hicieras uno sobre como es la mejor manera de utilizar un martillo neumático cuturi gracias!!!
A student on my Stone Carving Workshop sent me this link, and I think it's an excellent summary of tools. I think every professional stonecarver would suggest slight variations to your suggested capsule collection of tools - for example, I'd favour a dummy hammer + a medium vinyl mallet rather than a dummy hammer + and a pitching hammer, and I favour mallet headed claws, but nevertheless your video is really excellent. A very useful contribution to the field of stonecarving by hand.
The corners of triangular files are often not well formed by the maker, and tend to get chipped, blunted or damaged by misuse or poor storage, however, they still need to carry a lot of the load while filing 60 degree slots. If the edge teeth cannot file the overall progress of the file cut will be halted. I have found it pays to pre-cut the bottom of the slot with a few strokes of the hacksaw prior to filing. This reduces or even eliminates the work the file edges have to do, so speeds up the filing progress while helping preserve the file. If you have the time and the patience it is possible to make your own bushing hammer or chisel, by reworking an old lump hammer or large chisel bits
Really dumb. Why stop at a grotesque rendering of the face? We will eventuallt decay to powder. If you were being "honest" you would have displayed a pile of powder
I loved this video! I have to wonder, though. I have a rough piece of limestone I found at Grimes Glenn, and I would think that if I slapped it, it would hurt my hands no matter how careful I am. Also, would the hardness of the stone affect the speed of its shaping? For example, if you smack a piece of marble and a piece of soapstone for a week, would the soapstone be more dented?
I’m interested to know why, towards the end of the 12th minute, you change to a narrower chisel. After all, you never use the full width of the edge, only the corner and part of the edge. (This is not a criticism, by the way.)
Good question! You're right about the switch to a narrower chisel around the 12th minute. The main reason is visibility; the wider tip of the first chisel obstructs the view when I’m working on finer details, making it difficult to see the letters clearly. A narrower chisel provides a much better line of sight, which is crucial for precision in letter carving. Also, the second chisel is actually designed specifically for this type of work. I initially couldn't find it and so I started with the wider one, which was fine until that moment but not ideal. Once I found the other chisel, I switched to ensure the best results. Thanks for your question, and I hope this clears things up.
I'm trying to carve Old Turkic runes into stone as my ancestors did (I'm Kazakh). You videos on this topic are very helpful. Thank you very much for thorough explanation of each detail.
I never had a chance to get any art education or training but thanks to your videos i was able to complete a few sculptures. Currently working on the relief of a gladiator that i saw in a permanent exhibit 'deadth in the afternoon' in Ephesus Museum. Some place that showcased how gladiators trained lived fought and died.
How do I level one side of a stone? I get about using water to mark it, but how do I split it to get one side flat if there is no flat side? For example, I have a stone that is just eating through the angle grinder concrete diamond discs.
I'm so glad to have come across your videos Athar! You have done such a wonderful job explaining and presenting with a straightforward and no extra fluff manner, it's like a breath of fresh air. I love watching videos where I can learn something and get right to the topic of interest. A round of applause for you thank you so much for all that you share!
