You’re right that it’s strange to have these limitations on timelapse in these ultra high-resolution capable Nikon cameras which is why I almost never use the timelapse feature and go straight to video instead where we can get rich, clear cinematic footage in 12-bit RAW
Hello Taku, Rahul Deshpande from India. Great video ! bird photography is my hobby and I am thinking of Nikon ZF that too has pre release. Z8/9 are way out of reach for me. Kindly let me know your views for ZF pre release
I haven't used the Zf myself, however feature-wise they should be very similar to how they work on the Z8/9. That being said, the Z f is different in ergonomics and how it feels in your hand due to the different form factor. You might want to go to your local camera store and hand-hold the camera first to see how you like it. You can also look into the Z6iii which also has pre-release.
Hi Cal! Thanks very much for watching! I will have the rest of my excursion videos coming this summer. As for the gear, you can watch my video on the 14-night Antarctica Cruise. I've listed what I ended up bringing in that video!
I am not sure where you got your prices for these, but they are way off...I have several of these lenses and never would spend that much for any of them. This lens is a great lens! Thanks for sharing...Peace
Hi Mike, thanks for watching! The prices listed are in Canadian dollars, since I'm located in Canada. I didn't verbally say that but it was written on the video.
I own the 100-400mm but I’d like to trade it up to the 400mm f/4.5. I know they’re both very different lenses from each other but I’m always shooting at 400mm with the 100-400 so I can justify the trade for the perks of lighter weight, more sharpness, faster af acquisition and of course, the slightly brighter aperture.
Bonjour, j'ai testé le pré-déclenchement avec le nikon Z8 mais pratiquement toutes les photos sont ou floues ou pas de piqué. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer le type de zone AF il faut mettre (3 D ou autre chose) ? je mets pourtant au moins une vitesse à 4 000 mais je me demande si le collimateur arrive à suivre l'oeil de l'oiseau ? Merci pour vos conseils.
Bonjour! These are all pre-focused since I know exactly where the birds will be coming and going. I prefocus the shot, then simply shoot with pre-burst to get the shot. I also use the back-button focusing method so the shutter button is separate from the focusing, to allow me to do this technique. If you don't have back button focus enabled, you can pre-focus the shot and switch to manual focusing. This will allow you to press the shutter button without it focusing each time.
Great video thanks. I was wondering can you help I only shoot raw ( not good enough yet to get it right in camera) you have been the only person to explain pre capture is jpeg only. But why does my camera stop on my last image after a short burst. Then when I re press the shutter button it frees And I’m back live Nikon say it’s the card. It’s a lexar cf express B 128gb. Everyone says that it should be okay. Your experience please
This sounds like it's a buffering issue. Depending on the memory card you're using, it might not be fast enough to write all that data on to your card. I don't know what type of Lexar card you have so it's hard to say, but this is a typical behaviour for when the memory card cannot keep up with the speed of the burst mode you have it set to. A good test is to slow down your burst mode and see if your card doesn't stop. If it doesn't then you know the card isn't capable of handling the fastest bursts of your camera.
We need to overpower the sun so we can show our supremacy over nature. And, as "creators" we need to feel more important with control over the situation. And once we see a trend, image creators try to show their individuality by doing the exact same thing as everyone else.
Hey Kurt! Thanks for watching. I tried to go at sunrise but I couldn't get myself out after spending a few nights filming this! I'm finding I'm not as active as I used to be. hahaha...
Thanks for this comparison, but using the voice setting on your camera really gives this a muted sound. I would love to hear how these microphones compared in the outside test including the naturally occurring high and low frequencies.
Taku, the crown jewels of Nikkor lenses have historically been 28mm. 35mm was favored by journalists, and by my eye stands in no man's land. Ironically, that's the argument younger, videocentric photographers give about the 28mm focal length. Sadly, Nikon has passed on the 28 as well in S lens specification. The older F mount 28mm f1.4 E is an incredible optic.
Hi! I have not used that one so I can't say for sure. I don't think that one is safe for viewing the sun with the eye though so I would only use it to take photos.
Good review... Question... Say I want to just record myself and a guest "fast." I can mic up with my Rode Wireless Pro 2 but it is not FAST. Will the MKE 440 work well inside with two voices? Or can you point me at one of your vidoes that cover this. I did look for one. :-)
Thanks. None of these mics will pick up your voice better than a lav mic will. You can check this video here for a demonstration of what it sounds like when I'm standing behind the mic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0tIghqAdicM.htmlsi=pUVdrABxMlMU_NNL and go directly to the Outdoor demonstration link in the TOC. But if you're directly behind the camera, then your voice might be a little clearer than what you heard in my demo since I was standing about 4 feet away. You can always put your lav mic on a stick and have the other person hold it while they talk, if you want a quick and clearer option.
OOH! I love the image at 6:22! I also recently got this lens a couple of weeks ago, after owning my Z7 camera for 4 or so years. Great lens and quite versatile!
Do you plug all of these into your camera and shoot on the go? I get horrible humming / static noise while recording on MKE400, similar to you. I want nice clean sound, the mke400 audio quality is more than good enough.
I have no problems with mine. Not sure about the noise you get but my 440 does get static now only because I pulled the cable too much by accident. I have to make sure the cable is not pulled before using it now, otherwise I get noise. One of the drawbacks of the 440!
Shame the 440 doesn't work with iPhone. And if you break the cold shoe on the 400 which is easily done you have to replace half of the mic at a cost, when the actual cold shoe part unscrews.
Can you walk us how you got the shot of the dog at min 6:35? did you have a foreground light? The dog is perfectly lit yet you have the sun behind! flash? setting? Thanks!
ahh yes. You are correct in that it's back lit so normally the dog would have been a silhouette. In fact the dog was in the shadows and I simply increased the shadows on the dog so he popped out more (inside Adobe Lightroom). Normally you would do this with a flash or strobe but I did not have one and this was not my dog-he just happened to stop in front of me when he was chasing a stick the owner had thrown to the right.
I plan to keep mine for the memory (and hopefully re-use for sun spots!) but very cool that they are being recycled. No totality for me but I used my eye glasses on phone camera and got some nice crescent pictures.
I drove from Virginia to see the eclipse at Niagara Falls. I was standing at Terrapin point and got a glimpse of totality through the clouds for about 20 seconds. Totally worth the trip!
I didn't buy them, but if I had, I would probably keep them forever as a memento of the occasion. They should also be good for another eclipse if I should live long enough to see one. Maybe my nieces grandchildren would be able to sell them on the future version of eBay.
I have a vision where I get a shot of an object silhouetted against the eclipse, (during partial and total). Any recommendations of which filter strengths would allow me to still see the silhouette of a something in front of the eclipse?
By filter strength do you mean ND filter? If using a regular ND filter you need at least 16.6 stops to properly expose for the sun. Anything composed in front of the sun will automatically be a silhouette since the filter will cut out anything remotely bright. Keep in mind the distance of the object you’re placing in front of the sun too if it’s too close to you then you won’t have it focused with the sun.
Great video! Is there a link to your video on how to make the lens filter? It looks to be faster than unscrewing, especially since I might end up on the edge of totality. Thank you, Taku!
Sorry, I didn’t make a video but I actually remade it using card stock paper I got from staples. I cut out a hole the same size as the front of the lens, then cut out a strip about 1-1.5” wide from another paper to act as the “barrel” to go over the lens itself. This strip is attached vertically on to the other paper. I cut some wings along the edges of this strip and folded it back 90 degrees and glued that wing onto the other paper with the hole. After that was all done I glued the solar sheet on to the contraption I just made. Covered any holes with electrical tape since that’s all I could find.
