Rural living and the outdoors - chainsaws, firewood, cutting & slabbing logs, mowers, tractors, lawn & garden equipment, wood working projects, camping, truck campers, Jeeps, and off-roading to name a few. No click-bait, no preaching, no politics, just honest informational videos.
i have had mine for over 5 years,never had a issue with it i use it to tow my ski boat arounnd the rancch and my airplane in and out of my hanger. and it is a antique airplane big and heavy does the job just fine. did have to buy a used craftsman self propelled mower to get the edges of my lawn, but the husky works just fine, winter i attach the snowblower or the snowplow to it. but i did replace the rear tires with some heavy duty atv tires for more traction.
Yeah, it didn't work for me. I also tried it on my mower, and it got stuck instantly. As with the tractor, the traction seemed to get worse after spraying. I'd like to do some more testing in different conditions to see if it ever improves traction, but I'll have to wait for colder weather.
I have a 08 power wagon with a 1300 lbs dry slide in camper. I installed airbags but still don't feel stable. Leaf springs are soft in the power wagon for off-road capabilities. Have you done anything to the rear-end of you truck to get rid of the sway?
The suspension upgrades I did worked out well and were discussed in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kRibYEUwg3E.htmlsi=FxHy8Jt5duI5Roh7
@@outdoorsinoregonI had trouble getting the grease caps back on so I made my own with large electrical shrink covering and 3/4 in. nipple with a cap. Works really well and easily put together! Again, THANX. 😊
As 0f July 2024 you can still order 80 volt Kobalt Chainsaw through LOWES online. I'm even looking at replacing the 18" with the Oregon 20" bar and chain for my KOBALT 80 volt chainsaw. I have (2) Kobalt 80-volt 18" Bar Chainsaws and use (2) 5 AH Batteries. I’m 79 and love NO more having to pull a cord to start a gas-powered chainsaw. My first 80-volt 18" Bar Chain saw with a 5-AH Battery and charger was $400 in Jul 2021. - I use them on our Southeast LA farm of 18 acres of tall large pine trees that were devastated by a Hurricane and tornado. On 10 acres of the property, nearly all the trees are down or dead. My chainsaws have been working great and cutting huge logs and trees and logs up to 20"+ and it works great. I also use the 80-volt 10” Pole saw, lawnmower, and Leaf Blower.
As 0f July 2024 you can still order 80 volt Kobalt Chainsaw through LOWES online. I'm even looking at replacing the 18" with the Oregon 20" bar and chain for my KOBALT 80 volt chainsaw. I have (2) Kobalt 80-volt 18" Bar Chainsaws and use (2) 5 AH Batteries. I’m 79 and love NO more having to pull a cord to start a gas-powered chainsaw. My first 80-volt 18" Bar Chain saw with a 5-AH Battery and charger was $400 in Jul 2021. - I use them on our Southeast LA farm of 18 acres of tall large pine trees that were devastated by a Hurricane and tornado. On 10 acres of the property, nearly all the trees are down or dead. My chainsaws have been working great and cutting huge logs and trees and logs up to 20"+ and it works great. I also use the 80-volt 10” Pole saw, lawnmower, and Leaf Blower.
I have (2) Kobalt 80-volt 18" Bar Chainsaws and use (2) 5 AH Batteries. I’m 79 and love NO more having to pull a cord to start a gas-powered chainsaw. My first 80-volt 18" Bar Chain saw with a 5-AH Battery and charger was $400 in Jul 2021. it is still being sold on the Lowes website as of 5/26/2024 - I use them on our Southeast LA farm of 18 acres of tall large pine trees that were devastated by a Hurricane and tornado. On 10 acres of the property, nearly all the trees are down or dead. My chainsaws have been working great and cutting huge logs and trees and logs up to 20"+ and it works great. I also use the 80-volt 10” Pole saw, lawnmower, and Leaf Blower.
Yes, I definitely love the ability to just grab the saw and start cutting - no mixing gas, no pulling on the cord, no warm up cycle, no air filter, no fiddling with the carburetor, etc. The 80V is a strong saw and roughly equivalent to a 50cc gas saw. With a couple of batteries, a typical homeowner could quite easily replace their gas saw with one of these.
I have (2) Kobalt 80-volt 18" Bar Chainsaws and use (2) 5 AH Batteries. I’m 79 and love NO more having to pull a cord to start a gas-powered chainsaw. My first 80-volt 18" Bar Chain saw with a 5-AH Battery and charger was $400 in Jul 2021. it is still being sold on the Lowes website as of 5/26/2024 - I use them on our Southeast LA farm of 18 acres of tall large pine trees that were devastated by a Hurricane and tornado. On 10 acres of the property, nearly all the trees are down or dead. My chainsaws have been working great and cutting huge logs and trees and logs up to 20"+ and it works great. I also use the 80-volt 10” Pole saw, lawnmower, and Leaf Blower.
I use this 80V saw quite a bit and was pleasantly surprised by the power and battery life with the larger 5AH battery. It doesn't work well for slabbing work, as the bars get warped or pinched and no one makes a heavy duty solid bar for it. However, it works great for general storm cleanup or firewood tasks. I've worked it hard, and the oiling gear is the only failure I've had (cheap & easy fix). I believe the batteries, motor controller, and motor on these are quite solid. I wish the parts availability was better, but considering that it has saved me a ton of time over maintaining a gas engine, I certainly don't regret buying it.
Great video. You covered the differences very well and I'm sure it will help others choose the right saw for them. I prefer Stihl's pro saws hands down myself. The rim sprocket on the pro saw has the advantage of changing it out easy without replacing the whole clutch drum. Also you can change from a 6,7 or 8 tooth sprockets as long as you get the oiler worm gear that matches and to other chain pitch too. It is more versatile. The pro saws are meant to hold up longer through heavier use than the homeowner saws. All around better quality. The 261 has one of the best power to weight ratios too. Thanks for sharing your testing with us. 😎👍
For customers who may have issues with Carpal tunnel, Arthritic elbows, or shoulder issues, it is possible to get Steerez of the Husqvarna lawn tractors. Reduces steering effort.
@9:00 - the difference in these cuts is the weight of the log on top of the gas-powered vs the electric not being under the strain of the log's weight. But this is a test I didn't expect to see. THANKS because this is the exact thing I intended on doing with the saw I purchase. Great video.
Thanks for the comment. There's no difference in weight on the bar between top and bottom cuts, as the log is not sitting on the bar and wedges are used to prevent pinching of the bar. Also note that while the 80V saw is capable of slabbing in terms of power, the bars available for this saw are not intended for heavy use and thus get warped or pinched easily from the weight and bolt torque of the lumber mill attachment. I've only been able to perform a few slabs before having to replace the thin laminated bars available for this saw, and I've never been able to find a solid bar for this saw. I have multiple videos on slabbing that might help.
Wouldn’t those bearings get a lot of dirt in them? I know when mowing my yard, and the previous place I had too, there would be a lot of dirt kicked-up when mowing. I’d think the dirt would ruin them pretty quickly, but who knows.
Next Video how about one relating to a seat upgrade? Don't understand why other mowers have springs and all Husqvarna has is the 2 rubber pegs that make it feel like your riding a mechanical bull. Just a idea for a upcoming video. Thanks
Well, I wouldn't be able to do that video because my seat already has springs as you can see from my review of this tractor: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dQnnR0Kzs9w.htmlsi=gW2yH75Q3328Z2Vp&t=504 I'm guessing the holes all line up and you can probably buy a garden tractor seat and bolt it in place of your current one.
I added the bearings to my Husqvarna TS-348D garden tractor. The steering effort was reduced from a real struggle to being able to steer with 2 fingers. Thanks for the info! This will help my old arms and shoulders. The dust caps are now loose and I will have to find a way to hold them on.
The wheel bearing conversion will be my next upgrade; a lot of people seem to have good results with the bearings. By the way, you can get replacement dust caps on Amazon: amzn.to/3VVtZwe
I see you are a little OCD on lawnmower maintaining (just like me) You can save some cash by buying a Ford oil filter FL400S it's longer than the Stens and cheaper but you can't run with the plastic grill on that side due to it's length. If you insist on the grill being in place, buy a Ford filter FL910S, it's a little shorter. They are great filters and cheaper at Wall Mart. Good video's, Thanks
Very informative video. You covered a lot of information in a relatively short period and it was presented very well. Thank you for NOT putting music in your video which is very annoying to those of us who just want good information without the fluff. Subscribed.
I wonder if this is the same with the 24v Kobalt, because I have the same problem. It leaks pretty much all of the bar oil out of the reservoir. Pretty sad because it's a great saw.
I don't have familiarity with the 24V saw, but it wouldn't take much effort to remove the side cover to take a look. However, leaking oil is a separate issue and could be related to a damaged or loose hose or seal. Temperature fluctuations can also cause oil leaks, as a closed plastic tank will contract when it gets cold and expand when warmer, acting like a pump. You can loosen the cap to allow better venting or drain the tank when storing the saw to help with this.
4years? I've a Husqvarna GT 2254 garden tractor that has served me faithfully since 2006. Still going strong on the original mower deck spindles...amazing what regular greasing can do! Have done regular, routine maintenance on the unit, replaced belts as needed, adjusted things as needed. Original B&S 22hp V twin going strong, regular filters
6 years so far and no signs of undue stress or related issues. This is not a light duty yard tractor. It has a commercial grade engine, heavy duty transmission, heavy duty mower deck, bolt-on wheels, etc.
Many reasons why I might choose one mower over the other on any particular day. To say that the decision was stupid would presume you know the reason(s) behind the decision. Since I didn't tell you the reason(s) for using my garden tractor instead of my sub-compact tractor on this particular day, I'm not clear what basis you have for concluding that it was a stupid decision.
That was great! Thank you for making this video. I have a 60V greenworks that seems to have the same layout/plan and I haven't been able to find much information about debugging it online. You wouldn't happen to know what would cause it to immediately after starting? It started to shut down every few starts 2 days ago, and I had to eject and replace the battery to get it to turn back on. It became more and more frequent over the last 2 days and now my saw is unusable. It stops as soon as I start it just about every time I try to cut. Do you have any pointers for where to look?
There are a few issues that could cause this: 1) Dirty connections. Be sure the electrical connections between the battery and saw are clean; a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol will work to clean them. 2) Excessive chain friction. Make sure the chain turns freely by hand. If the saw detects a stuck chain, it will shut off. 3) Temperature. The saw will shut off if the controller or battery are too hot (after running the saw for a while). If you've checked these things, and the shutoffs persist, it's likely that the motor is drawing excessive current or the battery or controller are bad, resulting in false current or temperature measurements.
@@outdoorsinoregon Thanks so much for the tips! It happens when the saw is cold, so, the chain spins pretty free by hand, and it happens with all 3 of my batteries. So I'll give all the contacts a good cleaning and hope that fixes it. I hope it's not the controller!
@outdoorsinoregon Just thought I would update here. Greenworks did a warranty replacement on my saw. I never got a diagnosis because I live too far away from any of their authorized repair agents. I still have the saw though, so one of these days I'm gonna break it down and see if I can figure out how to get it running again. Thanks again for your help.
I have the TS 354D, which has many of those same features such as the locking differential. It has the Kohler 7000 engine, which has been excellent. One thing it does not have, is the gauges that yours has. I’ve noticed that Husqvarna has too many obscure models, with weird little differences like that. Some of them have the gauges or the high back seat, and some do not. For example, mine has the high back seat with the arm rests, and yours does not. I saw a different model for sale in Port Angeles a couple of years ago, and it was yet another different model, with a different engine, and it did have the gauges. If I remember right, it did not have the locking differential. One thing that does annoy me about this tractor, is that the bumper (it’s actually called a brush guard) end caps come off if you brush up against brush or a fence or something while turning. I’ve lost two of them now, due to blackberries and such, and it gets expensive for replacing them. One was destroyed by the mower deck, one time, because I didn’t see it come off. Mine also has the same crappy lightbulb receptacles. It fries the lightbulbs, and when I try to put a better LED bulb in there, it fries them in very short order.
Yes, Husqvarna has a lot of variations with different engine/trans combos and options. I do have a high back seat with arm rests (not sure if it's the same as yours), but I removed the arm rests because they were always in the way getting on or off the tractor. I had the same issue with the bumper. I solved it by using a strong adhesive to glue the rubber end pieces onto the steel. They haven't come off in about 5 years now. The adhesive I used is called Amazing Goop; there's a link in the description. Fried light bulbs sounds like you may be getting moisture in the headlight assemblies. They are definitely not sealed well, as I get dust in mine.
@@outdoorsinoregon Yeah, it probably gets in when I wash it, as I never mow in the rain. 😊 I see I made a typo in my earlier message to you….mine does NOT have the gauges. I’ll have to edit that. This bugged me because some of the lower end units without lugged wheels in the back, just splined wheels, had them. I added a trailer hitch that raises the ball height and stiffens the ball flange at the bottom of the frame, tying it to the vertical rear frame. I do really like the reserve tank, and have used it a couple of times, at least. Mine does NOT have the coveted 12 volt receptacle, and wish it did, to power my towable sprayer.
I also own a Husqvarna 52LS model. Had it for 3 years and got 300 hours on it now. I'm starting to have issues with the blade engagement but gonna try taking the mower deck apart and cleaning the deck as well as lube and tighten any belts/pulleys.
Thanks!!! Im at 73hrs so i need to wait till 100hrs?? Again thanks im thinking i made a great investment? I got the mower with 16hrs on it for 600.00. Im super happy!! He wanted a zero turn...sir ive made my money back easy!! Not looking fwd to maintenance cost with some upgrades im adding like bearing and deck adjustment rods both sides and covers over filters. Thanks for posting!
I did this on my J. Deere X320 recently. It had a 1/2" thick Plastic bushing on the spindle beneath the Axle Beam. I don't believe all JD tractors have this bushing. New bearings were $8.50 for 2 on Amazon. $73.00 plus tax at J.D. dealer! I installed the needle bearings after carefully greasing them. The needle bearings are also called Torrington Thrust Bearings..They fit well. I NOTICED NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL in Steering Effort. Very disappointing.
Interesting; I wonder if the plastic bushings create low friction contact similar to the roller bearings. Mine was difficult to steer at the start; there was a lot of down force pushing on metal-to-metal contact before installing the bearings. So, there was a noticeable improvement with the bearings in place.
@@outdoorsinoregon I believe the Plastic Bushings serve the same purpose. I have always jacked up the front end prior to greasing the spindles so the grease can get where it is needed.
Looks awesome! I just got some boiled linseed oil for the maple stick I'm working on; I wonder how it would compare to the wood stain in looks vs protection
The boiled linseed oil will provide a light amber tint, but will protect better than typical wood stain. Once dry, linseed oil creates a protective polymer layer that better helps to prevent moisture entry. Have fun with it. 🙂
Gonna use linseed oil on my walking stick too. Would I just use the oil and nothing more or should I put like polyurethane or shellac over it or something?
@@jeffschmick8279 You can use polyurethane (I would not suggest water-based if it is for heavy use outdoors) once the linseed oil is completely dried. I'm using Minwax fast drying polyurethane (oil-based). Some people like to use Spar varnish (like Helmsman Spar urethane), or tung oil mixed with Terp and mineral spirits, but any of them will do. Depending on the climate you live in, you could even use beeswax or just leave it as is :) I would do some research on what would be best for you based on your location, just make sure it's *boiled* linseed oil, otherwise you'll be waiting a lot longer for it to dry!
@@jeffschmick8279 Once dried, linseed oil will polymerize, and this will protect the wood reasonably well. Once the oil is completely dry, any number of top coats can be optionally added to improve protection: polyurethane, shellac, polycrylic, clear enamel, lacquer, varnish, spar urethane, etc. I recommend adding a topcoat if you're using boiled linseed oil, since manufacturers often add heavy metals and other toxins to the oil to reduce drying time. A food-grade linseed oil (or flax seed oil) will eliminate this problem, but takes longer to dry.
