Newcastle’s most trusted mechanics. Providing friendly and professional service for over 40 years. Specialising in high performance Japanese cars such as the Toyota 86/BRZ, Toyota GR Yaris, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution and Nissan Skyline GT-Rs.
I have a rally-spec GR Yaris and plan to upgrade to the GR Corolla exhaust parts. Can I keep my Yaris head and only change the exhaust cam, pulley, valves, springs and lashes? those are the only parts I saw with different part number (apart from the head of course).
What power are you aiming for out of this build? Are there any restrictions in your rally competition to use aftermarket engine internals? Just curious why you'd run OEM parts if you're building an engine for racing.
@@denstoj we use a 34mm turbo restrictor. All apart is free. However, we aim for high torque under 4500 rpms more than high horsepower at 5000 and above. Thanks for the quick answer 🙌
Ah got it! So many low end pulls from the cornering. That levels out the power between competitors nicely. Have you considered running the 267-EZ Kelford Cams?
Good on you :) awesome to hear you and your friend are keen to get hands on. You might have to watch the video just a couple more times while you're doing it ;). Having the right tools will be important too.
How would I know if this happened to an engine? Is it possible for this to occur and not cause a catastrophic failure? Say if the rocker lodges a certain way..
Hey goat3800, yes if you’re one of the luckier ones, it is possible a rocker could dislodge safely and tuck itself neatly in the tapet cover and the 2nd exhaust or inlet valve will keep doing most of the work. You will notice it low on power or running a bit odd. How is your 86 currently running that has you concerned? Thanks for the question.
Hey @silviamadness, it's very important to give the master cylinder and pushrod clearance. There should be no load on the pushrod while in the rest position. You can shorten the stroke of the pedal by shortening the pushrod. The height of the pedal is adjusted through the pedal stopper. There is no other adjustments you can do as clutch take up is controlled by pressure plate. Let us know how you go and if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
@@denstoj I appreciate that very much. I’ve been adjusting, kind of back and forth to see what feels best. It seems like a bit of give and take thus far, but still playing with it. Did you guys use the factory bearing carrier as well? I know the Nismo twin clutch does not come with a bearing carrier, so it would be assumed to reuse the factory one. However, I’ve been told a taller bearing carrier is to be used instead. Thanks again for responding
Good question. When correctly installed, our rocker retainer clips do not cause any additional wear or noise in the rockers or valvetrain. The clips are designed to be non-intrusive under normal operating conditions, engaging only when the rocker loses pressure from the valve spring. This is achieved by the existing groove in the hydraulic lash adjuster where the clip attaches. It is narrower in the middle where the clip and rocker normally operate and wider at the top, so the rocker is "caught" by the clip if it tries to fly off. This solution is similar to the system used in the B58 BMW engine found in the GR Supra, which does not exhibit any ticking noise despite being a high-performance and expensive engine (see video clip below). Our clips do not affect the regular functioning of the valvetrain and will have a lifespan equivalent to the other valvetrain components. Did you have any other questions? ru-vid.comUgkxuOoS4rvnUSjs-JlaFsIuwjUv-lLUeEen?si=NcihwGaRVDiaxEdB
@@denstoj my concerns are that the clips seem to clip on very easily and i wonder if they can slip off easily at high rpms? if the rockers can pop out of place at high rpms what's stopping that happening to the clips? i have an evo 6 and am looking to upgrade the valve train specifically to rev higher (Safely) so am intrigued by your product
I totally get your concerns. Sure, while these clips might not counter severe valve float, they serve as an added layer of security. They've been successfully used in high-stress environments, including world-time attack winning Evos and drag cars that push over 1,000+ hp at up to 10,000 rpm. They pair nicely with upgraded springs when pushing higher RPMs and of course, we wouldn't build a 4G63 without them. Let me know if you have any other questions.
We're working on a video. For now there are a couple of Facebook posts to check out: facebook.com/share/da3qR9tW9kz9rgpY/ facebook.com/share/bVRZJEuvG8bnwnU7/
Glad you found the video helpful! The transmission doesn't necessarily need external support when the engine is removed, as it's well-supported by its own mounts which makes things easier. Are you planning to pull your 86/BRZ motor out?
@@denstoj well so far I just have full bolt ons and and tune that’s can rise the Rev limit a little higher then stock maybe in the future when more stuff comes out for the car I will
Hey Alexis, you can order straight from our website (link below). We've got them in stock and ready to ship out to you. Let us know if you have any questions. denstoj.com.au/collections/parts/products/fa20-fb-rocker-retainer-kit
A guy I know had a dowel pin that holds a timing chain guide onto the engine (FA20DIT) rip out, and his engine was destroyed. Theory is the rolling anti-lag put stress on the system. Any ideas how to prevent the pins from coming out?
@hackiess8146 double damn. Yeah I wouldn’t recommend starting it. Did you want to email us some photos of where you think you lost it and we’ll check on our head when we can? Rockers@denstoj.com.au
Hi. I have a 23 model Y that the steering wheel sticks to the right after a turn or lane change and isn't recentering the wheel. In other words, I'm left to have to manually try to recenter the steering which makes for a very annoyingly jerky ride. My model 3 and other model Ys I've driven do not do this. Any idea why this may be? Tesla shops have no clue what they're doing.
I think they biggest constraint was the turbo itself since it sits under the engine, it wouldn’t have the clearance for the BRZ. They’d probably have to somehow move it into the engine compartment.
@@NJMICP3176 Yeah the, design of the BRZ, with its low hood line and tight engine bay, definitely makes it challenging to fit a turbo. It's not just about fitting, but also managing heat especially for long term reliability - possibly straying from the BRZ's ethos of being a straightforward and driver-focused. It's always an interesting balance! What have you got?
Hey! On the FA20 in the BRZ, the clearances need to be between Inlet 0.10-0.16 mm (cold) and Exhaust 0.21-0.27mm (cold). We have a worksheet to help when setting up the valves here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ld78m5UFX5meDGyf2uukR9JtfcJP9cHZLUvrdrSbaMA/edit?usp=sharing
Good questions but unfortunately not. The rockers are floating in all 3rd generation Subaru engines (FA and FB). We made a video of installing our same kit in the FA24 in the 2022 BRZ: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WqAb0UObhDk.htmlsi=ls2ekay2Lt5Yrih4
You're welcome! Yes, there are some differences between the FA20 and FB20 engines. The FA20 is a 2.0-litre flat-four engine with direct injection and is used in models like the Subaru BRZ, Toyota 86, and some versions of the WRX. It's known for its higher performance. On the other hand, the FB20 is also a 2.0-litre flat-four engine but with a focus on fuel efficiency and emissions. It's used in models like the Subaru Impreza and XV/Crosstrek. The FB20 features a different combustion chamber design and doesn't have direct injection like the FA20.
Both the Subaru Crosstrek and the Toyota Corolla Cross are great choices, each with its own strengths. The Crosstrek is known for its all-wheel-drive system, which provides excellent traction and handling, especially in off-road or slippery conditions. It also has a comfortable ride and good fuel economy. The Corolla Cross, on the other hand, is a newer model that offers good fuel efficiency, a comfortable interior, and Toyota's reputation for reliability. It's a bit more urban-focused compared to the Crosstrek, with a smoother ride in city driving. Ultimately, the choice between the two will depend on your specific needs and preferences. If you value all-wheel-drive and a more rugged capability, the Crosstrek might be the better choice. If you're looking for a reliable and efficient compact SUV for city driving, the Corolla Cross could be a great option. It's always a good idea to test drive both vehicles to see which one feels right for you. Knowing about the rocker issue doesn't mean that a Subaru is not a good buy. It's just something to be aware of. Like any car, they have their strengths and weaknesses. The important thing is to be informed about potential issues and to make sure that they are addressed or monitored. As long as you keep up with regular maintenance and address any issues that arise, a Subaru can be a great choice. We have a couple of the 86s/BRZs ourselves of course!
It's hard to say for certain, as all three-cylinder engines vibrate more their four-cylinder counterparts. In the G16E-GTS, Toyota has tried to reduce this with tuned balance shafts and improved engine mounts, but some vibration over time is normal. Ultimately, time will tell how well these engines hold up and depends how they're driven. Are you thinking of buying a GR Yaris of GR Corolla?
We don't make cams ourselves but we're a distributor of Kelford. We make rocker retainers that pair nicely when doing a cam upgrade. Are you looking to upgrade your cams? denstoj.com.au/collections/parts/products/g16e-gts-yaris-gr-rocker-retainer-kit-by-denstoj
That's an interesting idea and would make a cool deep dive if we did a full metallurgy comparison of the alloys. When we last did our research, it was rumoured the pistons were forged and a stronger alloy was used for the GRC. Do you know of any more recent information that has come out? Referring to our short we made here: ru-vid.comS87hXoSNhWg?feature=share
Sure thing. It will be more difficult to measure but we'll do our best to capture any differences. Might throw in a Kelford spring too and do another little video. 👍
Very nice video, I remember when GRC came out, there was lots of press release info that it has larger valves l, but knowing how Toyota makes things, I was very skeptical about it 😂
Thank you! Yes, we were totally thinking the same. When the GRC came out we were doing our research too and made this video which mentions the valves being different but turns out they're not! ru-vid.comS87hXoSNhWg?feature=share
Good question. They're new. We opened them up in our previous video where we unboxed everything and compared the rest of the different parts in the head: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dfj-3-q7BSI.html
@denstoj Then it is a proper test, good job. Could it be that GRC springs are stiffer cause GRC valve is also heavier, which basically equalises the difference in springs?
Thanks. Yes, great pickup. You're on the money. After recording the video we realised that would have been good to mention but I'll do it here instead - As shown in our previous video, the GRC exhaust valve is 2.35 grams heavier than the GR Yaris at 45.24 grams. This ~5% increase in weight offsets our measured ~3% increase in stiffness. The video I'm referring to where we show the valve weights is here (if you haven't seen it): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dfj-3-q7BSI.html
A few people in the comments are keen to see further videos so we'll look into it for sure. If you haven't seen it yet, our short video does talk about the rumoured differences when the GR Corolla came out: ru-vid.comS87hXoSNhWg?feature=share
We don't make upgraded springs and retainers ourselves but we're an official distributor of our friends across the ditch that you mentioned 👍 Looking to upgrade yours?
Just clarifying we don't make valve springs and valve spring retainers but we do make rocker retainers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V4IDYBl5LaE.html
Appreciate that! 👊 Check out the video on the end screen, Daniel shows a part number break down of what’s different in the head including intake valve springs. Hint: They’re the same. 😉
Thank you! I'm glad you found the video informative. A little different diving into the equations/educational part. Yes, making a generalisation, stiffer valve springs mean an engine can achieve higher RPM without suffering from valve float, but it's a bit more complex than that because the valve is slightly heavier too on the GR Corolla.
We need to do further investigation but yes it was rumoured the alloys in the pistons have changed. Made a short video about all the engine changes a while ago here: GR Corolla vs GR Yaris: Top 5 Engine Differences ru-vid.comS87hXoSNhWg?feature=share
@@denstoj Yes but not a Toyota (Subaru EJ204). This issue exists with a lot of Japanese car models and given the exhorbitant prices of auto parts in Australia, I reckon it's worth trying, albeit with some small risk.
Ah got it! We were going to look into importing from Japan but for now, it was easier to order directly from Toyota in Australia considering the GR Yaris head was reasonably priced but yes, definitely worth trying. Regarding if the GR Yaris head would work on the GR Corolla, we'd have to look further into how the vacuum pump fits with the camshaft to give a definitive answer.
Video cut off at the good part. Please settle the silliness about how the valve springs are stronger from factory on the GRC! If anything, they're still rated for max potential from factory.
