I strongly advise against using an eight mm rope in this device since from my personal experience a so thin rope gets crossed into the larger hole of the Slide and so the device set-up loses its halting function and becomes nothing more than a sort of munter hitch. I had use it in aid climbing in my first attempts and it happened a few times (bad moments). A nine mm rope should avoid this eventuality (maybe), but of course it makes the system much stiffer. I think Kong should reinvent this device using smaller holes for smaller ropes, both achieving a smooth use and avoding the rope-crossing danger.
Люди, можете подсказать. Что делать если при использовании узал уиаа, при спуске сильно греется карабин, так должно быть, не расплавит ли карабин верёвку при резком спуск и остановке? Подскажите пожалуйста
Thanks for this great video. When going with the A-frame do you have to lash the two poles together at the very top? Or does the tension from the tent hold them securely?
By far the best winter tent I’ve used has been mid style shelters (mainly used the Mountain Hardware Kiva, have close to thirty nights of snow camping using it). Currently I have a Black Diamond Mega Lite with the newer poly fabric that’s supposed to not sag as much when it gets wet. Having the Mega Snow would be ideal I think. I really enjoyed having the storm flaps with the Kiva. So many great possibilities for customizing your shelter space when you go floor less that can greatly improve comfort and livability. I like the A frame ski suggestion for the added structural strength and to do away with center pole being in the way.
This was done to illustrate the principle. Petzl clearly warns against doing this on their website. You can do it with a larger rope but it's difficult to film solo.
It has happened to me while I was setting in my home gym, thankfully, the rope didn't slide out, it passed behind the notch but stayed (I don't know how) engaged (also, I had knots tied under me, even if it slept, it would have stopped) but that was pretty scary ( I apologize in advance if my English is not perfect)
How about the person rappelling has a problem, and someone on the ground decides to ascend the rope to help them. That effectively is a firefighter belay, and that could potentially cause a failure. Doesn't matter what you call it.
The grigri is clearly an excellent tool for use in mountain terrain and when used properly and with respect to its known failure modes is extremely safe....but the problem with moving parts is that they introduce a wider spectrum of configurations over which new failure modes can creep in. That is the trade off for devices of this kind. Personally, I do not love the feel of a grigri enough to carry one but I am not dogmatic about it. The added benefit of my abstention is that I don't really need to keep track of all these kinds of dangers. I really appreciate the clarity of this video. Thank you for posting it!
They seem more secure however the lining up of the holes and hooks seems like it would be a chore... Constantly having to look down and if you miss... IDK I do want to try these.
If the lower point fails, the sling will slide through your "knot" and you’re done. use a clove hitch instead... This halves the load on your upper anchor under a downward force, and places most of the load on the upper anchor where it should be. With a clove hitch, if the lower fails, even if the hitch slides, it will stop when the lower beener reaches the hitch. With the clove hitch, in a upward force, it functions the same as your version / as intended.
Which knot would you use for a high rapell device? Directed figure 8, alpine butterfly or...? In this case it would probably need a little more than 2 m of rope.
Do you mean to attach a belay device if you wanted to also use your tether as a rappel extension? If so, on a single strand tether like this, people generally clove hitch the carabiner at the desired distance away from the harness.
That is not science or even a tip, just missinformation. Data is out there to proove that it is not a redundant way to build an anchor, a cut leg and it could slip with the force generatad by a fall.
Thanks for your kind comments. There’s an unfortunate trend on RU-vid to make unnecessarily lengthy videos, because the algorithm seems to favor them, more opportunities to place ads, etc. For me, I value the time of people choosing to watch my videos, and if I can see it in one or two minutes, there’s absolutely no need to make it 10 or 12.
Because when it completely unclipped, you immediately notice it. If you had the rubber band there, it might appear to be intact, when in fact you’re only hanging by the rubber band. That’s where people have died with this.
Nice video but I think the stopper knot should be more than an overhand knot my suggestion would be a DOUBLE or TRIPLE barrel knot with a good amount of tail.
I think you’re right. I found that out after I did it! Thanks for the tip! Although I don’t think the stiffness is going to cause any kind of problems, more of minor annoyance.
Great review! I am always interested in the factor 2 fall ability of these new lanyards. I guess it can absorb because the rope you should choose should be dynamic and not static.
EducatedClimber here on youtube has an interesting format for videos on knot tying called "watch it until you get it". he just records himself tying, not once, but about a hundred times with different variations of the knot popping up about a dozen times each. I think he's on to something with it, it's a great way to learn a knot. Maybe not applicable to the snap bowline because this is especially for people who learn tying a knot difficult, but for any other knot i think it's an excellent format.
