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Nice no frills video but IMHO you were working with those loose wires from the old breaker were a little too close to the live breakers directly above so I would shut those off too in an abundance of caution especially if you are new to this.
Would be more helpful if you constrained the position of the existing pipe to demonstrate the real problem. Moving the existing pipes is not a valid demo.
Celebrating 9 years of people making the same complaint comments about not using primer (not required with the red hot blue glue) and not securing the wood blocks down to better simulate the pipes being buried 🎉🎉🎉 hahaha oh man. Replying to the same comments over and over is always fun! Great helpful video thanks!
Very useful tips. Didn't hear you mention something the guy at the store told me and that's that the slip coupling has an "in" end and and an "out" because of the slip mechanism.Be sure to read the directions on the product and check the direction of the water flow before installing. (And as the link in the show notes says Christy's is an all in one primer/glue)
It would work better and simulate the actual experience if you had fixed the pipe mounts in the board you had them on instead of moving the two pipes around
You didn't use the slip couple the way it's designed for lol, you suppose to use it to slide on the pipe bc ypu can't spread the lines apart for the make in
I rolled my eyes at the foam...until he took it out. Brilliant. So many tricks. I got a million auto repair tricks. We need to work out a trade. I'm dying over here trying to install a shower for a 400lb old man that barely walks.
Thanks for this! I don't quite understand how the shims would work. If it's not level why wouldn't you just push the high side into the mortar more? And if you have to use a shim how does that work, do you actually pick the pan up out of the mortar then put a shim on top of the mortar. Wouldn't lifting it mess up the mortar base since you already jumped up and down to sink it in deep?
the 2 ways you are describing both work. i pre fit my base, it was low in the front so i glued a shim to the floor in the spaces it needed it and then marked the studs where the base was sitting. i removed the base, the shims were still on the ground glued, i put a mortar base down on top of the floor, shims and all, set the pan, aligned it with my premarked lines so i knew that was level...and walked away for a couple days. but i couldve probably just used a bit more mortar in the front in stead of the shims.
On the dry fit, would you get it level and then mark the studs so you would know once you install whether it is pressed down enough? THanks for the video