The best place for a detector is on the machine😁if it ain't broke leave it alone🤣🤣I keep them clean and lubed up.....but seriously that detector looks real clean👍let's bury those string machines😀
I always changed out the detector at 270 setting new pins. One of the cam followers set right in the groove @ 270 it was way nicer having the deck out the my way getting at the detector rod undone and done up again. I was upgrading all my detectors to the new style followers with bearings. The 1:1 has so much weight on it. We all called it the "Flag" but yes moving deck scissor deck selector, also so much weight on that little part. Everything needed to match up very nice on the "Flag" the moving deck cam follower needed to set just right on the the flag, same for blocking out the scissors. I always cared more how well the moving deck cam follower sat when it was blocked out. You didn't want a lot of movement there, to loosen other things up on the 1:1.assembly. Yes I see and feel some of the same pain as your went through this process. Thanks for sharing this I really enjoy these videos. God Bless and be safe.
You may have already went threw this but when rebuilding a detector which parts are normally ok to not replace and which ones should you forsure replace
I never understand just not finishing an install video all the way through instead of leaving out steps. Even if you previously did a take out install it’s nice to also see it in this video with all the steps also instead of cuts or bam it’s in already and not seeing the struggles. I don’t care if the video is 2 hours long. But I guess it’s easier on you for filming.
Well with this video specifically I didn’t need to show my rebuilding the 1:1 as I had already done a video on that. So I was focusing on what only pertained to changing out the Detector. With bigger things for the machines I try to keep a lot in there though
I was a head mechanic at a 24-lane center. This brings back memories I forgot I had! People not associated with pinsetters really don't realize just how much goes in to setting 10 pins to be hit with a ball. The A2s/Jetbacks we had were made in 1965, if I remember correctly, according to their serial numbers. They are still running to this day!
Oh Shawn, I’ve rebuilt over 200 detectors in my 45 years working on pinsetters, instead of using needle nose pliers for removing springs, use the other long spring and a spring removal tool, much easier, hook selector is on the D shaft, and to avoid breaking your 1/16 punch, use 1/8 to knock roll pin 1/2 way on OOR bell crank, it was painful to watched this lol
I work at a 32 lane house. Previous mechanics before me apparently praised the use of grease in all of the turrets,........ grease does not belong in the turret. I have brought this to the lead tech's attention and told him that i would love to pull each spider and clean all of the grease out,.......... he told that it would be a waste of time and labor.
No that would save you so much hassle down the road. We use STP oil treatment, but I’ve heard people use just regular 10-w30 motor oil. Grease is to thick and sticky!
I have a machine that will occasionally double cycle. Have swapped time delays. Have replaced and swapped solenoid with other lanes. Could this adjustment solve that? Im doing it regardless but my hopes are not high. I also have a lane that wont power on and would love some help. Verified all fuses and switches are good. Still no power
The double cycle thing almost all my machines do that. Even the rebuilt control boxes with new time delay. As for lane not having power double check your safety switches, you motor contactor or motor start relay
I think way back in the day (late 70's thru 80's) we didn't have that ring the screws thread into, it seems to me we used nylon locker nuts. I'd remember something like that ring making it so much easier. Pretty sure but its been so long ago. I also kind of remember there was a pressed bearing version of that clutch pulley too as in the bearing was pinched in between both pulley sides. We always used the clutch facing kits and rivets and similar for the turret clutch. We would have the magnetic clutch pulleys machined if they got grooves in them at a local machine shop. Nice to see a video from you. Thanks Shawn for sharing this with an old timer like me. I still love those old machines and seeing you work on them brings back so many good memories for me. (Sometimes some bad memories too, like the good old bastard shaft) anyways you stay safe and God Bless.
The original clutch disc had a one piece bearing with a flange face on it with the six bolt holes in it. Brunswick changed to a standard bearing/snap ring combo because of cost. I hate the carbon fiber facings, they just don't compare in wear performance and as they wear they spit black dust all over the clutch/yoke assembly,
@@jameslong3351 Yes thats the clutch disc I remember thank you for that info. I'm sure more than a few things have changed for the better since I last worked on those pinsetters.
If the scissors don’t even try to close it’s more than likely the detector rod or moving deck/scissor latch that’s out of adjustment. If the scissors do try to close make sure there’s nothing binding up and that your scissor cable adjustment is correct
Have been working on AMF and Brunswick machines for 35 years and am presently working on 18 lanes A2...I always do a complete ball wheel clean and new cork every time.I have started using a double sided tape with paper back,a lot less messy than glue and does not leave much residue😀😀Keep up the good work and let's bury those strings machines.
we got one a lil bit ago. a couple things ive noticed so far, the casters became loose pretty quick, so i added some thread locker to the lock nuts. make sure your cleaning the carpet piece below the oil nozzle where it sits at "0". that nozzle is a hair magnet like you wouldnt beleieve. after a month or so if you and your other mechs arent one shotting gettin the machine set on the lane, you can adjust the white wheels to make that a little easier. And finally baby the sliding doors. the tabs on them are mounted to blocks that are just glued on, not welded or riveted. weve had 2 break from someone beiing mildly rough with the doors. hops you like it! we went from an ion to this and its been AMAZING
oh, we had the guy who designed the atlas come out and he said to run the duster unwind after use. takes the pressure off the duster cloth wheel and he said it will make the wheel last longer. last thing i swear
I'm A2 mechanic of a 24 lane center, and we used to buy the stuff from the Brunswick parts catalogue. Recently it kept coming up on back order so I tried reaching out to a different company called Pres-Bond to get a custom size made for us. I wanted to try something a bit thicker, so I requested 1/8" thick 1.5" wide adhesive cork stripping, comes in rolls of 50'. It's less than half the price as the stuff from the book and it works probably twice as good. Generally lasts about 2-4 months before it needs to be changed, provided your lift rods are (somewhat) in spec. They have it up on their shop for anyone to buy in that size after we requested it, so if anyone wants to give it a go I think you'll be surprised how well it does. The method you show in this video also works really well, Shawn. But if you're feeling like trying something different I've had great luck with this brand.
@@shawnmbowling I've been applying 2 16" segments per lane, spaced 2-3" apart. Only small downside I've seen is that when the strips are nearing the end of their life, the adhesive slips sideways a bit. But by that time the cork is pretty beat up anyway, so it's just a good indicator that it's due for a change. If you give it a shot I'd love to know if it works out for you! It's been great for our center.
You are going to blow a rectifier turning those machines on and off like that you'll smell the rotten egg smell. Reach up in there and turn the machine by hand its even faster and more accurate. Yes we called those cork kickers back when I was the head wrench. It was like painting a bridge you just keep on reinstalling them. They used a ton of lane oil where I was and it made ball returns the top call sometimes. You've got a good routine for replacing them. My place was so busy I'd lay out 3 or 4 pair at a time just to keep up.(32 lane house) The lane oil was hard on the cork kicker too. Also they didn't hurt or mark up the customers bowling balls it seemed like. Nice job man Its fun for me to go back and see this stuff again. God Bless Be Safe.
I'm glad you're doubling them up for a long kicker strip. Way more effective that way. I hate when I come across a ball wheel that has a dozen 1" little bits all over it. Lol!
I thought. My real issue was a busted cycle solonoid pin fell in between the switch and the sping housing, making the spring not come back up sometimes. What a weird find lol
Hi! I’m going to A2 school in Moline in a month to learn from frank!! Your content has been super helpful! Any advice on what I should know by the time I get there?!
Honestly he goes through everything super well. One piece of advice I have is, even if you know something listen to what he has to say he could help you look at it in a different way!
Only ball damage I’ve gotten from up front is in the ball lift. When the urethane tracks start to rip apart exposing the screws that hold the tracks to the frame in the ball lift
So I see you have the zot kit I have both but curious on how to adjust the other sprint type I went by the book but having some yoyo problems so I added washers have you ever had to add a decent amount of washers say 10 or so to compress spring hard enough to make it not yoyo?
I know which ones you’re talking about now. We used to have a few of them and we just couldn’t get the adjustment we needed out of them. So we replaced those with the zot ones. Usually with yo-yo problems what we do is move the lift rods closer to the ball wheel, only problem is with the solid spring is that you run out of adjustment on the nut. Another thing we’ve done for yo-yo’s is putting a lift rod clamp on, that way when the ball goes through it’s not speeding the rods apart more and keeps compression on the ball for it to go up. Sorry I couldn’t have been more help
@@shawnmbowlingjust replying to your message I went threw my 20 share machine stuff and found quite a few zot kits and installed them instead now just hoping to be able to find a spring setup that works the same and order a extra or 2
