Just had a go at this on my Gen 3 Surf... what a mission. Like Eyeflynoosa said - The Banjo bolt was a bit of a bastard but once you get a rhythm with an open spanner its alright. My 1KZ has 185XXX KM's but looks about 20 years rougher than yours lol
Hi, great review 👍 Been reading a lot about these, thinking of going from my KO2's to these, but there seems to be a lot of negative talk around wet performance. The tire rating is an E for wet as well, whereas the KO2 is a B. Be really interested in your experience in the wet with these tires, if you could pass on your thoughts. Many thanks
I bet this was a leaking fuel system and the new plugs made no difference. Check out the 1KZ service manual for a diagram of all the places leaks could occur (usually at the injectors or fuel filter).
I also had the K02 also had cracking and eventually touched a kerb and blew but since then I have run road only tyres as did a lot of motorway driving but now looking to do a bit of green laning etc but nothing serious so these sound like the answer .I also have the same model LC as you so great video thanks
I oddly have the same issue roaring noise as speed increases. Had new bearings done 2 years ago it was better but now it's back. Though not quite the same.
Great review dirty mike! I'm looking for some new tyres that'll do wet weather school runs and occasional track use on my evoque cabrio - would you recommend these?
Good choice I think. Looking at replacing my Mud Terrain BFGs on the van in Athens and was looking at Trail Terrains. Not that we get snow there (!) although I do need some off-road capability.
I have a similar issue. Error code 14. Mine in completely random though. It seems to be fine for a week, the the light comes on and it drives like it has no oomph.
@@35jdub there was no easy way, either from above, from below or from the side. try to jack up the car, take wheel off and use an extension bar with socket to reach it. i cant remember exactly how i got it off now. there is a double sided washer on that banjo bolt , you'll likely need a new one of those.
@@35jdub thats good news. my head was back on when I had to remove the turbo, which made things difficult. getting it back on was "fun" also. Putting the bracket and the oil return (banjo bolt) on the engine first then place the turbo onto them, was easiest method I found. but whatever works for you
getting it back on was also "fun" for me today. Took 5 hours total.. didn't have the car on jack stands so had to start with the oil bracket lower bolts into block (was doing it blind and by feel only), and then did the transmission dipstick mount, then the banjo bolt which took 1.5hrs by itself... then finally the lower brack bolt into the block and finally mounted exhaust back on. what a nightmare. used zipties and a 2x4 plank to work as a hoist to hold up the turbo while my dad guided it around.. sheesh@@eyeflynoosa
March 2023 and I got this alert :(, I took the mechanic to do general maintenance on the pump, then I told them to align it correctly and they did it 3 times and nothing, the same code still comes out, someone help me , which sensor should be changed? my car is a prado 98 motor 1kz-te
Wonder why you didn't either do a spray and pressure test and balance them, Maybe you need new nozzles? I am a MB mechanic and I advise people not to EVER go straight veggie oil. Maybe 70:30 diesel/veg is doable but really why bother?. Veg oil ruins engines.
Hello, i noticed that your engine have intercoller, mine dont have, and its de same engine. Can i install intercoller like its in your engine? Nice videos, tanks !
Your check method for an oil leak is not correct. The turbo stops oil from getting past the piston ring seals by the turbo running.The high pressure exhaust on the turbine side and the high pressure air on the compressor side keep the oil in.Also there is a displacement ring inside that by spinning directs any oil past the piston rings to the drain side.The problem is your outflow is restricted by crud allowing high pressure oil to build up on the drain side which is more than the pressure outside the core.If you fill up a new turbo with oil,it will leak out when not turning.
And also, the up and down play will be taken up by oil pressure, the main concern is when there is in and out play, so he’s testing procedures were not really correct
I read somewhere that the 1st gen Tundras came stock with Limited Slip Differentials but I think this looks like both of the ones you have in this video are Open Differentials. Hopefully the swap worked out ok for you. I'm looking at swapping in an 8.5 Tundra axle into my '94 4x4 truck that is lift. The pinion flange plate is the same as is the 3rd member length of 9". I also gain 3.5" of track width per side which will be good for my 4" lift.
Gday Mate, thansk for sharing this. Appreciate it! I'm about to under go this procedure. Do you think it's possible to do this job without removing the exhaust manifold? I plan to take my turbo out with down pipe still attached (hopefully out through the bottom) and reinstall the new turbo with the downpipe attached to save the headache of getting into the back downpipe nut (you know the one).... Would be nice to not have to pull all the exhaust manifold etc off... Thoughts?
Im not sure I understand your logic. The plugs are supposed to be .72 ohms. The first set tested .8, the second set tested .9-1.0. So you installed the set the tested incorrectly. Why?
Having a similar issue with my engine beyond 2000 rpm, local mechanics claimed it was a gear box problem but I highly doubt, gonna clean out my injectors first and see if there's a difference. Thanks so much for the upload! Subscribed
@@afonsonobrega4337 yeah it was the injectors, fully serviced them and it run better than ever before, definitely improved the cars whole performance, also added some injector cleaner to the full tank of fuel as an added measure, still runs perfectly to date!
Hey mate, I just started on a 1kzte that I'm using for a project Hilux and also upon lengthy engine inspection prior to start up I noticed radial play in the compressor side of the turbo. I realised that this is normal and when the motor is running the oil pressure centralises the clearance there. So all good.
Hi Dirty Mike's Garage, I am running my Surfs and prados on WVO for a many years and hundreeds of thouthand klicks. I admit I have to change/clean the injectors time to time. And it usually noticeably less power when running WVO compare to running pure diesel. However, if you preheat the fuel in a coolant-to-fuel heat exchanger, it helps with fumigation, improves power delivery and prolongs time between injector's services. Just a question to you: For how long you've been running waste oil (in Km) prior to your injector's service?
