Here is the unsaid aspect of cast wheels. For normal adventure type off-road use, of course yes they will indeed be chipped by stone damage. However so will the spoked wheels and just as badly. However, the cast wheels can easily be repaired by any good alloy wheel refurbisher for a very reasonable cost they look like new again. However, the only way you can make your wire wheels look like new is to strip them right down, repair the rim, the totally rebuild them. I talk from experience here. Last month I took my brand new 690 out in my woods and within 200 metres the rims were scarred up by small stone chips right down to the bare alloy under the black anodising. chips that I can never properly repair without a strip down. Everyone goes on about wire wheels being more practical than alloys,but outside of competition use are they really? Those of us who check spoke tension are constantly adjusting them so....think about cast wheels again, are they really such a bad choice for an pure adventure bike v a genuine enduro/trials/rally competition bike? I say this because I was just about to push the trigger on a 2024 V85TT with the wire wheels and then I saw a video by Big Rock Moto on the new BMW1300 in which he had decided to go with the alloy wheel option and it made me think again, especially as the Strada is by far the best looking of the bunch, at least in silver in my view.
So, when you get engine hot then you should feel difference where lean mixture do problems... ------ I just got V-Boost from Mistral. What a disappointment for 150€! If I had just known what it will be in the box! There is no "device," just two connectors with a few wires and a simple temperature sensor. Toooo expensive! So, lets dive into what does V-Boost actually do? Basically, it works as a secondary air temperature sensor (ATS) placed in a cooler location. It acts as kinda interceptor for the original IATS data traveling to the ECU (see pic). V-Boost intercepts it and sends forward cooler data. V-Boost targets the fuel mixture related to air temperature. It benefits air-cooled machines that undergo ECU liposuction to comply with emission standards. V-Boost is a good medicine for potential knocking and for situations described below in points 9-12. Don't expect other performance improvements; any other possible or "feels like" improvements are just collateral. Here are a few basic facts supporting this theory (by HPAcademy.com) 1. One of the most critical parameters we need to measure to do this is the intake air temperature monitored by an intake air temp sensor or IAT sensor for short. 2. As the air temperature changes, so does the air density. 3. Hot air has a lower density, and contains less oxygen hence, less fuel is needed to maintain a constant air/fuel ratio. 4. On the other hand, cold air is denser, containing more oxygen and thus requiring additional fuel. 5. The intake air temp sensor provides air temperature information to the ECU, which can then be referenced by compensation tables 6. Where the intake air temp sensor is mounted is also important in order to give the ECU a realistic measure of the actual temperature of the air entering the engine. 7. Often intake air temp sensors are fitted into the intake manifold which might sound ideal, but in my own experience, this can actually create a few problems 8. While at high air flow values, the sensor will give an accurate measure of the true inlet charge temperature 9. The intake manifold can also be prone to heat soaking at low speed or when the engine is shut off. 10. This results in excessively high readings on a hot restart or when idling in traffic. 11. In this situation, the intake air temperature sensor is being influenced by the heat of the intake manifold rather than the actual temperature of the air and this affects the accuracy of the air/fuel ratio 12. The common result is an engine that runs excessively lean and responds erratically for a few minutes after a hot restart. 13. I personally (author) find the best compromise is to fit the intake air temperature sensor into the intake pipe just before the throttle body (Mistrals sends it further away - under seat) In very simplified terms, with V-Boost, the engine runs as with classic DellOrtos, where there aren't any on-spot corrections regarding air density, e.g., temperature - it's just a constant flood with a rich mixture, which helps with engine cooling (contrary to popular opinion - gasoline play role as a coolant also). Anyway, I think that V-Boost is a pretty clever idea for air-cooling engines! But i think it could be done as a DIY project for just a few bucks and not as pricey as Mistral's silverware! www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShed/Downloads/VTwinBoostInstallGuideV85TT.pdf www.mikroe.com/pt100-3-wire-temperature-probe www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning-fundamentals/efi-components-intake-air-temperature-sensor/#:~:text=The%20intake%20air%20temp%20sensor,be%20referenced%20by%20compensation%20tables.&text=An%20intake%20air%20temp%20sensor%20is%20a,resistor%20known%20as%20a%20thermistor.&text=These%20are%20a%20two%2Dwire,with%20relation%20to%20air%20temperature facebook.com/share/p/PMF9MmrbKz39V8j5/
That looks MUCH better, nicely done! I have a 2018 Aprilia Dorsoduro 900 that has a "beak" fender (high mount), and I never liked the looks of it. I finally took the time to see what would be involved with replacing it with a typical "hugger" front fender, and was able to do it. I did have to get another OEM headlight/fender bracket and cut it (the bottom of the headlight was supported by this), but other than that, wasn't too involved.
Can you share updates on your mandello mods? Im thinking of replacing the turn lights and removing tail. Also, i got the mandello S version but dont love the color scheme . I might wrap it red or yellow…..
My German friend, if anyone says any derogatory comments about the underperformance and high cost of the ZX-4RR, then they just don't get it They don't get the concept of a high revving 400cc inline 4-cylinder screamer that revs to 16,000 RPM and that you can safely ride on the street and switch up and down the gears without massively breaking the law and going to jail or losing your license or losing your life, like on a 1000 cc 200+hp Superbike. I just wish the other Japanese manufacturers suzuki, yamaha, Honda would come out with a similar bike and maybe naked Style.
What do you prefer the low pitch rumble of the Moto Guzzi, or the high pitched scream of the ZX-4RR? I think I prefer the sound of the Kawasaki because I really loved the V10 and V12 era of Formula 1 cars. However both do sound amazing to me.
Why not both? They are both amazing in their own right, I am glad I don’t have to choose but can go forth and back. If there were only 1 bike I could have , probably the guzzi as it is far more versatile.
No tune back then but there is now upmap which I would highly recommend. I tuned my V100 with upmap and no issues at all, bike runs amazing. You don’t really need a tune but it sure helps with better fueling and fuel to air ratios.
I am in North Texas, about an hour North of Dallas. Dealer wise it is slim pickings. There is plano kawasaki suzuki in plano , next would be Oklahoma or Austin, TX - AF1 racing, there is also a dealer in Houston, but I have not heard anything good about them.
I just got a used trident recently with the flyscreen already installed. I'm wondering if I'd be able to install this Ermax fairing without removing the flyscreen
What an amazing bike! I wanted to comment, because the quickshifter issues moight just be due to the way you shift. No offense intended, but you go up and down the enitre gearbox with very low speeds and also i noticed you go from 2-6 very quickly in a row with medium speeds. I don't think any quickshifter will perform great when shifting like that. Any QS needs a little oomph and i'd advise holding on the gears a bit longer as well. It makes the ride a lot smoother. Congratulations on a beautiful motorcycle!
Geiles Bike und die Teile sind perfekt ausgewählt. Ich plane auch eine ZX4RR anzuschaffen. Hatte bisher aber leider keine Möglichkeit mal eine Probe zu fahren.
So did the new tires fix the twitchy feel at the back? Typically that is a suspension issue. Other review criticized that the Ohlins semi active felt softer than base suspension and wasn’t worth in their opinion.
Since my track day got canceled for weather, I am still on the original OEM tires. I played more with the suspension and seem to have found a setting that works for me with the rear shock adjusted towards the softer side. The front has never been a problem so far.
I did decided to add this bike in my garage. I ordered the side bag as yours but I wondered if it limits a lot my possibilities to filter my way in city traffic . Have to experimented any difficulties in similar situations? Thanks for your kind reply
I am not an expert rider to answer that question, from what I can tell it is rather capable in stock form, well suited for my riding style. Still want to take it to the track and see how it does. Overall no complaints from me. It is very adjustable in stock form so even if you don’t like the factory settings , there should be room to adjust.
Yes, there are several different groups on Facebook. I use the DFW Moto Group , rides mostly in the Plano, Allen, McKinney area or Shenanigans, rides in the Denton area. Redline Riders are in the South Dallas area, that might be more in your area.
Vycylenut does tuning for these bikes and multiple full exhaust systems. He also does partial throttle tuning so it cleans up how the throttle acts everywhere and not just at full throttle. Adding the graves velocity stacks also gives a very slight bump to the top end and smooths out the power curve as well.
I looked at the stacks, the way you have to rip them out scares me a bit … lol. I am looking at all the options for the unlock, but not a fan of having to send off my ECU tbh.
@@Labtec86 The only reason to own a bike like the Zed-X 4 RR is to either race it, or go rip on twisty roads. They're not exactly comfortable for touring, and using it for anything other than the aforementioned corner strafing makes one a poseur.
I am talking to Dallas Superbikes for a Dyno tune / unlock. Probably should get the Sprint Airfilter to go along with it. Question is , donthe first service first or not … lol
Definitely do the first service before any tuning mods. Thumbs 👍 for the Sprint Air Filter. My number 1 choice if available. Do us a video on the Dyno we need to hear it scream !
had that issue before. Are you using E10 fuel? Motor doesn't like it esp in cold, I started using E5 and the highest octane available and engine run smoother and start every time first time.
