We are all guilty of buying a new to us truck, jacking it up and letting it ride without replacing key parts that most likely need to be replaced! So in todays video we replace a large majority of our front end!
I have an 04 z71. Installed moog pitman, idlerarm bracket, arm, and stabilizer links. I researched and cross referenced all part numbers. Had an alignment shop align it right after install. All went bad within 6months. Replaced them with ac delco all perfect fit been a couple years now, still strong.
Same here, but with Mevotech supreme parts. The moog problem solver upper control arms are great. However the rest of their stuff at least for these trucks last the same as stock
Thanks man. Just did my tie rods and my idler arm and bracket. Doing pitman arm right now. Heading back to parts store for the puller and a bigger wrench . I only got the pickle fork amd don't want to damage my gear box. Thanks for making this not so intimidating. Beautiful truck too!
Great video that helped me make up my mind for my own truck. I’ve got an 06 and it still drives well for 271,000 but she’s getting a little floaty. Can’t wait to have that tight feeling back.
I'm 60 now but I started working on my vehicles as a teenager but watching you have to cut that part off... well that reminds me why sometimes I just don't like working on my vehicles much anymore, that and at 60, it's much harder than it used to be. BTW, I have the 06 Sierra 4x4 crew cab and so far, I love it.
Great Video. I have a 2000 GMC K3500. Love my truck. Been thinking about rebuilding the front end myself, now I feel more comfortable tackling the job. I just replaced the CV axles after one of them came apart and really started looking at the suspension. I have a bit of work to do. Your approach and tips you gave will make my job a lot easier. I just hit subscribe.
found your channel last year when i was waiting for my LT TB to be delivered, still here. good content. woulda like to see the Toyo go safari but, still here.
Great job. Thanks for sharing. Planning on doing my 07 Silverado 2500 HD and this video really helped me figure out how to do it and what tools I need. Never done tie rod ends before. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This body style of Sierra has a very niche following, and I honestly give you respect for doing all that you’re doing to it. Can’t wait to see the finished product bruv 🙌🏻
Tip on the pitman arm if you got a new arm to put on angle grind that thing off there save you some trouble just use caution one of the most dangerous power tools out there if used improperly. Good luck.
Lookin at my 233k Mile 2500 on original joints. My steering input is a suggestion at this point. Oh well gonna do what you did this weekend. Going moog as well. After that gonna do control arms and sway bar links. Thanks for the video. Also love my bilsteins.
Just did a 2" lifted front strut assembly on my 2011 z71 suburban with about 130k on her. Everything was worn out. I replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends with all moog problem solvers. Installed new rack and pinion as well as sway bar bushings and the duralast gold line end links which are very nice. Was quite the job but rides good and feels tight. I know what you mean about being brain dead about 3 am after working on your rig for 12 hours. Riding 17s on studded duratrac 33's. Feels good knowing that everything is new under there. Not just a for looks upgrade anymore, its a whole front end component and performance overhaul! Nicely done man. Hows the rubbing with 35's on stock 20's? Are they a 12.5 wide? Thinking about going with 285/70/18 on my stocks for this summer which equates to a 34x11.5.
I got 337,000 miles on my 2004 Z71 Tahoe 4x4 and seeing this video convinced me I need to redo the front suspension on my Tahoe but I just can't stomach throwing $1K into a vehicle I gave only $3K for that is worth what I paid for it but some says it is worth more so I might have to throw a lift on it which will take care of the worn out parts...I also like those wheels you got and considering some for my Tahoe if I did throw money at it..great video either way!
Just think, that’s cheaper than 2 payments on a brand new vehicle & you still wouldn’t own it after that, and would still have the same maintenance to do. It’s paid for. Doing good maintenance like this just makes sure it keeps earning its paycheck.
I dread this. I've done my tie rods and ball joints. That dam pitman is what I'm dreading. Looks like you had a tough time with yours. But you got it done. Saved yourself allot of money and you know it's done right. Nice truck bro. And nice video.
I replaced all of these parts, my upper and lower control arms, and the sway bar links and bushings and it was a shit kit. I think it was Detroit axle, I don’t recommend.. my point is it’s not that difficult if you have the proper tools, time and patience
^yup about 200-300 depending on tax and whatnot. This video really breaks it down well. I will say take it to get the alignment adjusted after. It will feel pretty straight but the smallest adjustment on camber can realllllllly eat your tires in the blink of an eye. Good luck friend!
Always have your wheels straight forward before tightening up all the joints. That way all of the dust covers are in their resting position and not twisted while driving straight, your dust covers will last Ionger.
Love this video you dropped in just in time ive been procrastinating on my 07 classic cateye but just need get it done. My whole front end is shot and really just undrivable at this point and leaking powesterring bad
Pro tip for anyone going to do this (specifically people on a tight budget) get quality parts like in this video… save up if you have to. I have an 06 GMC that I have had for years, long story short when I was younger I didn’t have much money and rebuilt my front end with the cheapest chinesium ebay had and everything was worn out worse than the stuff I took off within a month.
For people reading this comment…moog is NOT quality. They went severely downhill in the past 3 years along with QC. Get AC Delco, or quality aftermarket if you have mods like level, lift, etc. Otherwise, sound advice.
That weird pipe wrench is called a spud wrench. And yeah they are very handy! Great video man. I did my front end in Moog parts and they have beed great.
@@adubbz23 Yeah I know the wrench you're talking about but this is a Reed 02111 Spud Wrench with a smooth off set jaw. Been using them for over 20 years.
Got a 99 silverado ext cab z71i did everything .went from 35s to 33s .Southern truck so everything came apart pretty good...bump stops where gone upper and lower .broke both cv axles. Was binding inn4wd ..I cranked my torsion bars back down a bit noticed they are wore out...I didn't have to take my gear box off tho .I used a long bar and it popped right off...last week doing my new axles in .noticed my year old ball joints are toast. Both sides. Both inner tie rods are toast ..all this I did a year ago .and had it aligned .I thought for 44 bucks to buy the upper a arm with ball joint all in it was a good idea ...maybe if it had a f%$king grease fitting in it...of course it's gonna be junk a year later .,I'm just gonna buy the offset control arms for it..I don't wanna be replacing this stuff every year .chasing the wheel sucks ..it's not wearing tires tho witch is weird. .gotta spend some money to look cool tho
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM HITING BUMPS MAKING THE SAME NOSIE ITS Driving me crazy, I have replaced wheelbaring hub assemblies in the front and the back. I have replaced sway bar links and bushings. I have replaced intern outer tie rods. I did not do the Pitman arm or the Pitman arm bracket or any of that Pitman arm stuff. At the time. My Pitman arm was still in good working order according to the mechanic. I haven't had it checked in about a few years though. I have put in probably close to $14000 in labor and repair. In my 2 thous and one GMC Sierra SLE extended gab 1500. With the 5.3 l V8. I have a flowmaster FX cat back to the exhaust system on it. Just like yours, it sounds amazing. Plus a recommendation for you if you want more horsepower, you want to replace your throttle body. With a expensive expensive unit. I did this and I gained 9 horsepower gain. I couldn't believe on how much I gained. Plus my K&N Air Intake System added 11 horses to my Engine. Plus I did a Diablo tune. Which really woke this truck up. Especially the shifting, it's so smooth. My horsepower gains are extraordinary The truck originally crank 285 horsepower. 325 foot-pounds of torque. Now the engine is at 382 Horsepower, I had it checked recently. And 408 torque. 0 to 60 and 5.1 seconds. Plus I did a stage one weight reduction. Plus it's a 2 wheel drive, so it weighs a little bit less. My question for you or anybody that can answer this. How can I improve my ride quality on this Truck???? I think I'm gonna have to replace the rest of the stuff in the front end that I didn't do yet. But will this really help? That's the question because the stuff that I already did is an improvement but it didn't seem to help as much as I thought it would and I also replace 4 shocks. Also I forgot the mention and new tires and all new brakes on the truck. Caliper's rotor's pads, front and back and all new brake lines and all new fuel lines and the new. Drive shaft and new rear differential gear backing plate bolts fluid change. Tune up plugs, wires 4 coil packs, new belts, new battery, new power, steering pump new lines, new alternator new tensioner, pulley new throttle position sensor new mass air flow sensor. New power windows driver passed your sidied. New fan motor that controls the climate inside the truck. That was making noise that had to be replaced and the switch that controls the fan speed was only working on low speed. So I had to replace that also. Plus CD player kicked a bucket. I put an after market DVD touchscreen in. Sorry. For such the long message but I wanted you to get a general idea on how much I have invested in this truck. Plus it cost me $3000 to fix the frame. Truck is still not done yet. It is a nightmare but I love the truck so much. I won't get rid of it. I won't stop until it drives like a new truck.
Dude...perfect timing. Just about to have to do the same to a friend's cateye with 190k. My 2 cents see if you can find bilstein 5160s for the rear of your truck. They ride extremely well.
@@Vgorruso kryptonite and cognito make some good stuff. If your truck is leveled get some new upper control arms made for the leveled trucks. I’ve had the same cat eye for 16 yrs and have hated driving it since I leveled it. I just put 2k in the front end and it’s still has half a turn worth of play in the steering wheel and rides/drives like shit. I started researching. And I need a steering box to fix my steering. And I had asked many mechanics what I could do about the harsh ride in the front end and they just said nothing really. You get the upper control arms it will give you some travel back and make sure you have some good bump stops. I’m currently saving back up to buy upper arms and couple other things and just going to do it my fucking self.
Im about a month late here but maybe this will help someone else if you have the money buy this pitman arm puller Schley sch68800. You don't have to mess with taking the steering gear loose. if you dont want to spend $170 for the schley, NAPA sells a carlyle or K-D tools brand standard type puller that seems better than the cheap rental ones. its about $50 and has a lifetime warranty. i think it is Part #: SER 2289 also, a little heat from a mapp gas torch always helps if you have one.
I got my pitman arm puller from Hobo Freight but I grindered the outside tips of the jaws to a slight taper to use on the other end of the pitman arm and idler arm from the steering linkage bar
Honestly have to do the same thing to my old 01 Silverado, has almost 300k miles and still OEM steering components. You'll have to take care of your rear driveshaft u-joints soon too bud. Those go bad at about 100k on these trucks. Looking forward to more content on this ol girl. Keep it up.
@@tylerf6528 I would have except they were going for almost 4k when my last 4L60E went out and doing the 4L65E upgrade only cost me about 2.5k which included a 3500 rpm stall converter by B&M. The other 8 I had go out on me were all factory rebuilds covered under warranty. Think I got about 20k out of each, maybe less. Putting about 311hp to the ground out of some building up of my 5.3L.
Man my wife bought a 2003 1500 had 168.000 miles, the gentleman that had it bought it NEW.... changed everything but the shocks, so it's much more ( GOODER NOW)....
This video dropped with good timing. My 2001 F-150 is going to need some work done to the steering as there is some play in it. Looking at the components, I suspect that the idler arm just needs to be replaced and the other components are still good, but I still need to have someone turn the steering wheel while I look at the components to confirm.
Did the pitman and idler arm take any side to side play out of the wheel? Or is that entirely from the steering gear box? I have 295k on my 01 replaced the wheel bearings and ball joints and tie rod ends but didn’t do the idler and pitman arm.
How was your steering gear box? I have an 04 Silverado crew cab z71 that needs all that done plus a new gear box gonna be way nicer just haven’t had time to get the parts what did that cost you what you did ?
Did you buy all the front end suspension parts in a kit for that truck or did you buy each part individually ? I've got to do this same repair on my '06 GMC Z71.
Hey guys great videos enjoy the honesty and sweat equity, if you want a great upgrade to the front end of this generation of gm truck ie pre 2007 with a recirculating ball front end check out cognito motorspots . I believe there a California based aftermarket shop , what they do sell is a weld on kit for both pitman arm and idler arm of this gen truck . What the kit does is double capture both pitmaand idler arms reducing wear , these trucks had a light duty front end and the cognito braces work ! I have installed them on my 01 stepside !
Just get a loaded upper and lower control arm and everything else. It’ll save you some effort. I got a loaded upper control arm and wound up having to press the lower control arm bushings in there but you can get those already pressed down and loaded with a ball joint.
@@Irishcream216 not sure, i did the upgrade on mine, i already run 20’s but i can only run certain 17’s so i would say offset 17’s or bigger unless you run hella spacers. definitely worth the upgrade…
@@joshuagreen9691 Don't you usually have to upgrade the master cylinder or brake booster or something when you go with a big brake kit? How does the factory system work with the bigger calipers?
@@joshuagreen9691I have a 02’ chevy with a 2020 chevy brake setup. Feels much better than my 07-13 brake setup. You only have to put in washers to space the calipers away, so the rotor doesn’t rub on the caliper.
Bit of advise! Should’ve replaced gear box and center link considering you were trying to replace suspension would’ve been a good idea. If it was a money issue I get it. Either way nice video.
When I replace my idler arm do I have to replace the idler arm bracket because I've rebuilt everything on my front end and the steering is still loose?
I'm waiting on kryptonite as well. Depressing hearing that from you. I'll probably end up doing the same thing. But yeah thanks i am about to tackle the same project on my 06 with 245,705 on her.
You forgot to add wheel hubs which trust me they go out around 150 to 200,000 miles and swaybar end links . Also guys take your tail lights out and pressure wash the best you can wear the wheel wells rust It accumulate with junk salt and everything else and they rust from the inside out like the rocker panels do on those trucks. So some preventative maintenance will save you a bad side and it doesn’t matter what kind of truck what year of truck except for the Ford aluminum bed sides? Trust me on this I thought of doing that after I saw a 2011 with a rusted bedside and the day I was going to do it I noticed a bubble in my paint, so I pulled out the tail light shine my light in there and there was 2 inches of junk sitting where those two pieces of metal meet where those rust out . I sprayed it off and I could literally see the rust so I got it out the best I could and sprayed some rust inhibitor on it and it hasn’t been rusting anymore. . I figured I would share that with you guys but for real don’t forget to put hubs on it because they will go out
What are the specs on your wheels ? I want to do 33s on my 20inch wheels and was wondering if I would rub. I have 2 inch rough county leveling kit on my 2005 z71 Silverado
I remove the pitman arm with a Pitman tool when it got tight you take a hammer and wrapped in or get a big pin to reach up in there and then wrap the pin real quick that'll jar of the pitman arm loose a little and then on Titan it some more
My Silverado has 495,000 miles, we last rebuilt the front end in 2010 using Moog parts, is this Kryptonite brand the top of the line? About to rebuild it again this year to last the next decade lolz
I just ran across this video I’m looking to rebuild my front end i have an 06 cateye don’t know much about the suspension it sits level but it sqeeks horribly I was told buy all moog parts but I wanna make sure I’m getting everything I need I know I’m replacing the upper and lower control arms basically I need a full parts list or part number any help will be appreciated thanks great truck by the way
If I replace the steering box at the same time do I have to go through the madness with the pitman arm? Or is removing it first for clearance? I have a 1500 now but my 2500hd made me tap out on that replacement…after hourrrss and multiple pitman arm removers
I have a 04 sierra that I drop to a 5/8 stance. And did a complete rebuild on the frontend. And I agree auto parts stores carry crap specialty tools. Inner tierod tool
Looks like everything he bought was MOOG, I would assume if he still had the truck, everything is fine. I’ve trusted MOOG for years on all my hard parts.
@@thelizardking8525 my last suspension upgrade was all moog parts for my 01 ford focus, springs were instantly shot. id say moog is better on the solid metal parts, ie: no ball joints springs etc.
I think moog are hit or miss I heard people say really good things about them and others say bad things about them, Personally I just did balljoints on my truck and jacked it up yesterday to make sure everything was good and they upper balljoints are shot already and they’re only 5 months old so I hope this best with yours.
That's a good brand bro for the most part I have them in my 2006 there good for getting rough but not wild hahah but no u can't give these a good beating and there solid oreilys and stuff like that sales this brand
Moog is pretty good stuff. But honestly I've had better luck with mevotech. My 05 Tahoe sits on all mevotech parts. Ttx is the hd version except hubs. Those are titan xf. I've beat these parts just to check for a breaking point. Still no failures after 75000 miles.
You tighten the pickle fork on therm real real tight and then hit the end of the pickle forkwhere your socket goes on the with a hammer and the arm will pop off. For future reference
