That’s the craziest muffler I’ve seen. I have a 501p and the tube comes right out after removing the 2 deflector screws and it’s right behind the spark arrestor screen. It’s actually held in by the 2 screws and pops right out. Then you have an open can muffler. It didn’t change the direction of the exhaust 12 times like the 590 but the deflector only had 4 little slits that the exhaust went through. After I opened it up it was WAY more responsive but not much noisier.
I’m not sure if they changed the design, but I was just working on my 620, and that tube does not want to come out. It’s super solid in there. Exploring other options now
Maybe a stupid question, but I just bought a new cs590 with a 5-year warranty. If the service department sees any modification wouldn't the warranty be void?
Thanks for sharing this video. I have an ECHO 620pw I plan on "modding". I am curious of the tools that you used to cut the muffler. They look like Harbor Freight. Can you list what you used? Also, How much more power do you thing you are getting out of your saw?
I drilled mine out to 1/2” and it woke the saw up! I also modified the deflector on top of the spark arrestor. Both resulted in a much more responsive and louder saw.
That exit hole is huge. Unless this is a 200cc saw that will be a bit much. Leaving the stock deflector will help but I think it will be surgey dependant on rpm.
I know string trimmers are really your thing but I have an echo 225 PAS that is shooting oil out of exhaust. Am I just not giving it the onions it needs when running it? Edit: using red armor oil mixed properly. Even does it with premix 50:1 canned gas.
Sounds like your carburetor is too rich, needle valve not closing all the way, diaphragm on the pump side of the carburetor not doing it's job or metering lever not adjusted properly causing needle valve 2 stay slightly open or could just need the high and or low jet adjusted properly
Yep. Amazon. I have power going to the pedal, and from the pedal I have a dremel setup and the big rotary plugged into a multi-plug that the pedal supplies power to. I keep turning them on and off individually as needed and the pedal supplies the power.
That will make some noise! I normally just add a couple small hole similar to your picture. Curious how that mod will do on a stock saw. I know they seem to wake right up with a muffler mod.
I may have just gotten lucky. I remember there being a weld on the pipe way down in there and either the weld or the pipe itself broke and allowed me to remove the whole pipe.
Why would you not drill out the spot welds. You would be amazed to the number of manufactures getting cookie cutter stamping. Worked for me TNL. Have fun fella too.
Restriction? What Restriction?😂 just FYI, that inner deflector is a separate plate. Grind/drill a couple spot welds and the upper and lower deflectors separate. Your way does look better tho and will hold the screen better!
Beautiful. You did a nice job and you did it correctly. I bet she barks (howls?) now. Isn't it funny the lengths we'll go to un-engineer something 😂🤣😂🤦♂️ I've added ports using deflectors (Egan has nice ones) too which sometimes is just the ticket depending upon the saw. How'd the dye process go?
I'll do the dye process today. Got everything REALLY clean already, just gotta dye it now. So I'll be doing that and putting it all back together today. As I'm writing this, you couldn''t know, but I also modded the carb. Limiters removed and that hole on the bottom of the high jet has been jb welded. We'll see if it'll run now that I've given it wayyyyy too much flow and taken away some of its fuel!! Hahaha 😃 😀 😄 😁 🤣 😔 😟
Seems an awful lot of time to remove something that's better-off to be plugged, I love their layout but (of course) it's EPA-compliant ergo we can't use it but you can simply put a plate over that top area, and new exits on sides or front, without having your hole being "in line" with the exhaust-flange like that, I mean sure it should still beat a stock muffler for total power (not for fuel economy by a *long* shot) at max throttle but "open-dump mufflers" seem to be very commonly associated with poor throttle response and it makes sense if you think for a moment how there's a moment in the rotation where the muff pressure is greater than cylinder pressure and the cylinder re-uptakes, when this type of "just drill a big hole and bypass the muffler" mod is done you're intermingling atmosphere with what *should* be just a mixture of good & burnt charge.... You can block the OEM escape up top entirely, make a new hole or pair (I did a pair, 2 always give better acoustics, in total they're around 50% surface area of my [ported]exhaust flange) of muffler-exits on the upper front plating of the muff box, also of course open-up / enlarge the passthrough in that central baffle-wall, but doing this makes it so the "back half" of muff is still a "charge only" area, as intended, instead of letting atmosphere in near the exh.flanging which is no bueno! Important to remember that most over-do their muff mods, too....when you're nearing the optimal muff escape-port size, say you're at 90% of optimum, if you go past that and make a hole that's 110% of optimum, you lose WAY more power than you'd have gained by going from 90% to 100% optimum (that's as clear as I can put it, hope it makes sense....it's better to err towards too-tight, but that said you can / should still be nearly 50%, minimum, over OEM spec on any echo's I've seen)
That took a lot of effort to write, so you deserve a little extra effort on my part...the vast majority of folks do not have the means to weld or braze. But, they will buy a dremmel tool. All along, I knew I would be building a pipe for this saw. Figured I should do something in between a full pipe build and a hack muffler mod first. This is a popular saw that not many people do videos on...so I'm milking it for all its worth. It is a quality mod that made a difference, but I'm not done with it yet.
@@novicelumberjack Have you started pipe builds? I'd thought them pretty sharp at 1st but honestly am now seeing almost all mufflers as being work-able (some much harder than others, of course!!) Please don't take this the wrong way but I guess I'd say I don't see how your approach differed from "the usual drill-hack"? I fully understand this is the norm, for what it's worth, but am just trying/hoping to perfect things.. Echo's design here is great for low-flow but we don't want that and, since enlarging that tube/straw is impractical, IMO it has to be abandoned....but you don't need to abandon the whole muffler by creating the exit in the rear of a 2-part can, in fact I used the hole you made - which I made initially as "my final mod", an arbitrarily sized hole there, just like Tinman, too- but eventually changed it, I used that hole **as access** to the baffle plate and enlarged the baffle holes so pass-through from rear-to-front was greatly enhanced, then I patched the entire top like literally just put a 1.25"square piece of 16g steel plating bolted down where the deflector would go :P I then drilled a pair of exit-holes on the upper-front wall (where they're out of direct-path of the exhaust port, so the flange can get maximal back-pressure....you mention trying to keep 'some', I'd argue we should be keeping as much as we can w/o compromising throughput or 'flow' and you can actually achieve quite a lot by placement of the exit, I would call the approach you show here "short-circuiting" it, basically a bypass, and worst of all the exit hole dimension is being guessed at) Am still of the belief that Tinman's issues w/ his 590 build are at least in-part because of his short-circuited muffler, sucks because echo reallllly tilts the cylinder backward so the exhaust port has a nice shot into the can, big old heat-shield, it's a great setup once "flowed" -- but almost every mod I see just throws the baby out with the bathwater, muffler pressure NEEDS to be higher than cylinder pressure to prevent excessive charge spill-out when piston's coming out of BDC and these 'open shot' mufflers whether this mod on a cs590 or an Egan/bark box on a 660 are 'short circuiting' the effect which stinks because mufflers are where real power is made/lost (as you know, if you build pipes!) Have you seen the Grunge Gasket concept by Dominant Saws? Gonna be making one to test myself hopefully today ;D
Sure do! I'm down for that! I have a couple oaks coming down in about six weeks. When that happens, I'll make a video and invite anyone who wants to come. Would love to have you over. If you wanna screw around beforehand, let me know. Friend me on Facebook. Boedy Pennington
LOL....why do this? My saw works just fine. I do know that 2-stroke need a specific exhaust to make power....expansion chamber design like on motorcycles back in the day. The one time you use the saw you save a second of valuable time. Over a years time 2 or 3 seconds. Reminds me of Jimbob down the way cut the mufflers off his truck thinks he has 500 HP now for racing up & down country roads. Escalation....1-week later I heard a tik tik then the next week after it was a knock knock (who's there) later didn't see Jimbob's truck anymore. Point being...if you need performance; by a saw designed for high performance for contest whatever HP saws do. I'm seeing many vids like this with ZERO logic or reason to do such a thing other than some Durkwad said or the "look et meh" effect.
Aren't you just a pocket full of sunshine! Lots of folks can't figure out why anyone would want to make modifications to saws, you are not alone in your thought process. Do what works for you man. For me...I'll take a higher performing machine that runs stronger and lasts longer. The heat build up these modern mufflers create significantly reduce the saws life. But it's all about the performance for me. It just is, and I have no need for you to agree with me.
