*Shop our website www.emfcaraudio.com *Support the channel on Patreon / emfaudio *Follow us on Instagram / emfaudio *Follow us on Facebook / emfaudiolabs
I feel my vintage mtx 500watt subs didn't live they were blown when I got them sadly I fixed my test ground that I ran for 2hr straight no issues slightly distorted than. New ground after protection mode I thought I fixed that and got a smoke show next morning it thumped again before I disconnected coil gave I'm I think it came undone due to old glue 😭😭😭 but I'm thinking of replacing them
The pyle was not the old school version we ran in the early 90's the ones in the 80's and early 90's where made by harman kardon company . And although that kicker was old school it was a woofer that came like in a cheep truck wedge box. most people ran the kicker c8 or s8 solo baric made by still water !
@@masterchef2142 sensitivity is measured by playing pink noise to a speaker at 1w at 1 meter. Pink noise is basically random frequencies from 20hz to 20khz. Then the usable frequency is taken and an avg of that is taken. That's the sensitivity of the speaker. If a woofer is only usable from 50hz to 500hz (it's relatively flat in that range, basically before the frequency drops of like a cliff on both ends of the spectrum) and avg of those little peaks and nulls is taken and that's the sensitivity number coming in. In this scenario, each speaker has different FS and other TS parameters. Even if they have the same sensitivity, in a box tuned for an exact frequency, each one will have bigger nulls and bigger peaks. So sub A might do 130db while sub B might do 136db even thou they are rated the same sensitivity. He had to use pink noise and graph each speaker, and take the avg of that graph. He even explains this after the 17-18 minute mark that the box will change the results quite a bit, resulting in a pointless video. I really like his other videos, very informative that's why i subbed but this one, this one feels like an out of season Aprils fool joke, or maybe just marketing.
just found this channel and now I can't stop watching your audio experiments, this stuff is really fascinating and goes to show you shouldn't focus on just one spec but rather the entire package when it comes to subs!
I still stand by my comment on the part 1 video about the power of nostalgia and better ears when you were younger. Especially for those bass heads who have been in the game for 20+ years and don't use ear protection often.
I used to be one of those guys saying old subs are louder and sound better, well then i came to understand the subs are much much better nowadays!! Thanks for this video!!!!
Point well made and excellently proven. I think a lot of us are nostalgic for the days of our youth, myself included. Back in the day when looking to replace a set of 4 Pyle driver 8s I took the plunge on my meager income and bought a set of Cerwin Vegas because on paper they were superior to the other options. The actual output was so much lower than the Pyles that I pulled them the same day I put them in. Ironically, I recently scored a pair of NIB Cerwin Vega Stealth 8s. They will stay in their plastic wrap inside their boxes.
What a fun video. I wasn't expecting the old subs to do nearly as well as they did vs the sundown. The Kicker and Terminator are two subs i know well. This makes me want to find a bass solution for my prius as cheaply and using as little space as possible. So many subs can get it done.
Ah man such a bummer! That mtx was my first sub! I am digging the elevator music. The track while testing the second sub has some deep bass that sounds amazing on my setup. Thanks for making these so I can binge while I learn
I love this.. Especially when Sean summarizes the outcome... I listen as I watch his surroundings to see if he sets up promotionals... like the K9 tests.... Love the shirt!
Hey, look at the lowballer leading the pack. That's a solid $200 sub. The 1999 Hcca made a good showing as well. Going head to head with the lowballer, which is brand new and has a 20 year age and technology advantage, and the Hcca held it's own! Nice set of tests. Just goes to show, there's more to spl than just sensitivity. Good explanation at the end too.
Pioneer premier bullet.. Rockford punch, spl 160, infinity, alpine, and a stroker.. I would love to see those results.. and older high quality amps for sure.. love the video.. to bad there weren’t many enclosures like this back in those days
I’ve got a nice “little” system that Originally cost more in higher quality parts but has since paid for itself ten fold. It migrated from car to car in some form and is currently original 3 Memphis MClass amps (1100 -500- 250.4), 1 alpine R12 (2nd gen) and 2x current type R12’s in a triple sealed beefy box, and 4x type R components for mids/hi’s. All that backed up by a Batcap700 (replaced my old 400 that 12 years later couldn’t hold over 11v) and powered/grounded by 0ga ofc NVX wiring etc. off a PIO 4200nex bypassed & all major areas dynamat-ed. Ok lots of pretext but my point is since purchasing those amps/sub combo back in 2004-06 I’ve always been thoroughly pleased with the results. 14-16 years, 5 cars and some cosmetic wear later it’s still holding strong and sounds even better on modern type R’s in a nicer box. I literally love these amps for years of loyal performance, so always do the planning/research and get better quality gear cuz it will payoff longer than you’d think.
One of the best videos I've watched in a while. Could you have custom made an ideal enclosure for each sub and gotten more accurate results yes. But the deviation in results speak for itself. And tying it to the logic of motor force and mechanical ability and xmax... It's nice to think about and see in action. I still love all my old subs even the shitty ones. But I love and respect the advancements in my new subs as well. Thx for the video.
Nice to see the pyle finish. I understand it got stinky. I just thought less of it. I gave them some loot. Twice over the span of like twelve years. Didn't expect much out of them then. Didn't expect much out of them now. Numbers say they were the bottom but they finished. Surprisingly. Nice to see the lowballer on top as well.
Got em! Most of us that live in reality and like you are old enough to have experienced know today's goods are no comparison better! Sure I loved my M&M Godfather's, and Earthquakes, and Autotek and HiFonics Amps. But they just can't compete with today's offerings!
Another beautiful day in the neighborhood. Keep up the good work. Even though you made everything clear in the video, someone will be confused. How about the debate weather a bunch of small subs would be louder than a few larger ones. As always, I enjoyed the show and am already looking forward to the next.
That happens when people don't watch the whole video, skipping around, only watching a few minutes of the beginning, etc. That's not a bad idea comparing multiple lower level subs to a single higher level. I get asked that a lot with comparisons.
@@EMFAudio Thank you, that's exactly what I mean. I always run into "the guy with 5 cu.ft. 2000 watts and just a few dollars that's on the fence about subs but wants the most spl". I understand their skepticism because this is an investment and if we could do better we would with the proper knowledge. How about the effects of a voice coil that has started to smell. Does that degrade its output, ohm load, stroke and power handling? Keep up the good work bro.
The box, with the sub so far facing forward and the port all t he way back there, seems like you would loose a lot of sound pressure. It probably gives a good deep boom sound but lowe sound pressure.
Awesome content. I think the real winner overall was the RE 8. But only if you were on a power limited build , say, less than clamping 300 watts . It stayed Within 1 dB of the low baller across the board. And it needed a little less real estate than the 12. Either way your video 100% backs up your claims of old vs new and I thought it was sweet to see the real world testing. Have a good day!!
I also get the fact that sensitivity doesn’t give you the whole story, and I appreciate your work in testing all these subs , just to let you know I really enjoy this channel, and all your hard work , if you do the “ old school spl challenge “ in this car you will kick some ass👍🏻
Just thought to let you know I did my own testing with 4 old hcca 15 , compared to new hcca 15 , on the same amp , in different cars and boxes , I used an Orion xtr 2250 , the new ones were about 3 dB stronger at the same 43 Hz, the boxes were in different cars but the tuning frequency was the same , bigger magnets bigger coils=more spl
So but what is if all these subs become the perfect boxes wich one is than the loudest? I have tested 2 subs in a pair of boxes an in one was that sub and one was in the other box louder... i have over 150 db at home 😊
I'll comment on this one too. The older subs also have many years of aging and degradation on them compared to the newer ones. I saw ripped foams and who knows what kind of torture they've been put through prior to this test. So then, a realistic test would be to find some older subs in much better condition or even new old stock if you can find them and test again. Great video nonetheless.
i agree w/ all u said but i think alot of peep mean louder for less $ so if u bought hcca for 100$ NOW for money it is by far the best to get. You see what im trying to state? Hope so, and video bout that would be cool! Thx for vid!
I've never been emotionally attacked like this with vintage car audio, 24 paper towels spent. I'm sure to be at their funeral. Seriously crying for africa here, somebody needs to help me. This is not gonna pass in years. Tears everywhere..
Agree! BUT for shits and giggles maybe a do over with better old school subs and a sealed encloser like we all ran back in the days. Results will be the same but I just see everyone saying this is the reason. Did learn a little this video though.
You should also do a video showing how to tell what subs will perform best in general based on t/s parameters. I know there are many other factors but in general what to look for with t/s parameters
Back then it wasnt as efficient but we did what we did on what we had no we got choices i remember my 2 xlc 18s in a 1999 caravan it was a sealed box and it only around 600w a 2 omh the amp was orion hcca 2400 I still dont think it was louder than what ive had new school.
If you asked me back in 1989 . Would you like to have 3000 watt subs and amps from 2019 ? I would of said Fuck Yes Please ! We had what we had and rocked it right !
I know this comment is a year old but I recently sold 4 15" original super blues I had sitting in my basement in original packaging for the last 21+ years to a guy. Was very excited to get them.
I’m using my dads 2 15s and 3 tens from his old system, they still bang. Have a 15 in my truck and a new toro 12. The 12 takes the mid and high bass notes 15 in a box tuned low for low notes, work very well together just scared to turn it up. Getting fed by an amp that’s 3 times it’s rated power. Bumps hard though
Love the video, I know u used a spl box to get the loudest dB reading but should those older subs been in a smaller or worked better in a smaller cub box?
There is a difference between bass-heads and audiophiles, one likes volume, and the other likes the quality of sound at 70db. Given this, new and old woofers have their place. An old woofer can't compete when it comes to volume.
EMF Audio ditto, there home cabinets were sick also, I had the single 15” home cabinets and on some Janky home onkyo receiver they literally wud get so low it felt like my townhouse was side stepping off the damn slab lol. Neighbors loved me. Actually I had two decent Vega tens in my old IS350 that hit decent, sold them to my buddy, now he needs em rebuilt 4 years later, would you be interested? I only stay not too far in Durham nC. Lastly what’s the name of that dope “porn” track you play at the start of this video where dude remixes some Moaning? Had me laughing the other day while driving
I would still like the see the big players of old school in a up coming challenge like the JBL GTI woofers and the Cerwinvega Strokers used in the 80's and 90's !
Can you do a video of how the port area affects the sound? There are many people with speculations on small vs big ports affecting the SPL and the roll off and having different peaks but I never found a definitive answer with proof to back up the claims. And I am referring to only a change in the port area with the tuning frequency and box volume, etc remaining the same
This is the exact video I was planning on uploading for tomorrow but never got free to shoot it so it will probably be next week. I've already started preparations for it.
1 watt is 1 watt, no matter the impedance or frequency. The sensitivity numbers along with the other parameters are taken at 1 watt, and with more power applied everything changes because of suspension dynamics anyway.
How do you accommodate for the fact that in the early '90s the biggest amp you saw on the regular was probably 500 Watts. Obviously there were bigger more powerful amps out there, but for the novices it cost too much to have more than a 500 watt amp. And with that 500 watts,have the most slamming stereo around???
just like the big motor guys saying: there's no replacement for displacement. yeah there is, its called technology and innovation. i went with a big turbo on my supra and smashed a lot of these guys' big displacement motors. a little 3.0 taking out 5.0+ noise makers. i didnt go with 15" kicker L7's because I knew the sound and build of the DC AUDIO LEVEL 4'S i have in my truck would out do it in every way. Saved myself money too. dont believe the hype, follow the facts. EMF tech tuesday videos are the bomb.com
I have 3 new death penalty 15s w/ all upgrades so im w/ newer stuff and believe they are up there w/ best u can get dollar for dollar Do you agree? Your thoughts on it PLZ? spl and music? I think its one best for both. Durable 1-10 and what sub is a 10/10 durability for price? Thx really like the vids and EMF audio! That amps a beast!
Gotta be something said about the airspace requirements, much less now than it used to be. Fosgate p2 12 can be ina 1.5 cf enclosure, older Fosgate punch 12 was around 2.2 - 2.5 CF air space.
A lot of that comes from design characteristics and modern materials. The same could be said for PA vs car speakers, vintage car speakers were designed closer to PA speakers in method.
@@chuckmiller5763 ... your approach sounds interesting 🤔 I've considered doing an old-school/new-school build; but I was gonna do the opposite of what you described. I'd use my old school amps to power modern component sets, while using new school amps to power old-school styled subs. Lol I know that it seems crazy BUT I look at the power demands of today's subwoofers. Hell, one 8" sub could eat the full-tilt of a US-Amps surfboard or HiFonics series Viii Zeus without breaking a sweat. 🤣 In some applications, our older amps would catch hell, trying to maximize the performance of modern subwoofers.
One question I am still wondering about after this experiment is sensitivity vs. bandwidth. Peak output at a given frequency is good to know but it would be interesting to quantify the bandwidth with an RTA. It is well understood that highly-motored subs will track the signal and motorize the air in the box more effectively and as such are more optimized to play flat in smaller enclosures while a more sensitive sub will simply be choked out here. As Hoffman's law dictates, losing sensitivity (heavier MMS) makes for a more efficient sub in a small box on lower frequencies. What if you put a more sensitive sub in a relatively large enclosure and not a burp box (something along the lines of 3-4CF for a 12" sub with a 100L+ VAS, tuned to 30Hz for example). I would suspect the car sub would be still be marginally louder at tuning but only in a narrow bandwidth while the pro sub would be quite close in peak SPL (up to mechanical limits) with benefit of having much wider bandwidth. I suspect that these older subs were never meant to play below 40Hz and required large boxes with appropriately tuned port port loading and high-pass filters to control excursion.
How do you feel about the oldschool Memphis line lvs 15 and m3 mojo's? Lol i seriously have had anyone come close to matching my little mojo's at 30hz. Obviously your spl numbers are way higher then mine would ever be but 60hz burps are far from practical for music. Isn't that called a ram port or something? Ive seen that used alot in competition were you see those ridiculous numbers. Ive seen guys with 4 15" solo barics barely doing 150db @ 35hz.
I have no personal experience with LVS's, but they were a gimmick sub. I never saw anyone do anything significant with one. I did have M3's back in 2005 or so, competed with them and did well in power limited classes. The ports used in these boxes are commonly referred to as "Aero port" which is a trademarked name, a flared port is what it is generically.
The Oscope won't show when it's about to blow unless you're clipping it, especially a hard clip at high power. Other than that it's observations like feeling heat, pushing on the cone and hearing mechanical damage, visual queues, audibly hearing something irregular, etc.
I shared on facebook. Keep it coming. Can you do different test tones. And what is your box tuned to. I am into this. I got alot of subs i do little test with when im stoned or bored.
As I said in the video, I played the tones that were highest for that sub. They were all within 5 hz of each other. I have no idea where it's tuned, I have the port length that was loudest for 1 sub I was testing a while ago.
Not a bad test. Would have been nice if you could have a correctly tuned box for each of them. As I remember, many of the old school 8s were intended for a bit more mid bass rather than super lows like the soft surround long throw modern ones. Most I remember were in small boxes with little ports to bring the mid out. You were expected to have a 15 for your low lows :-) How much did the tuned frequency vary between the old and new in your test?
"correctly" tuned would be inaccurate because that would add variables that also have nothing to do with what's said about old subs. It's not so much that those 8's were intended for higher bass frequencies (Not midbass, that's why they're subwoofers, not woofers) like 40 hz and up as much as ALL subs were that way. Majority of recordings didn't go under 40 hz, 45-60 hz was very common for bass. That being said, the same enclosure was used without changing tuning so the only variable is the sub. Realistically speaking, the oldest subs should have had the upper hand playing higher frequencies and they simply didn't. The peak frequencies (remember, port didn't change) had a range of 5 hz but most of them were within 1-2 hz.
This is a fun test. Would it be possible to see one done with some modern subs like DC audio and Sundown. Would be fun to see a DC audio m38 go against a Sundown sa 8.
The test was fun to watch.. Ty.. To just further break the argument ... What is sensitivity ? Its generally measured at 1 watt at 1 meter with no box.. Yes .. Its a completely pointless number in a real world application .. I dont get why they even measure it.. Unless you are going to run 1 watt to a sub without a box
It's intended to be a measurement of of acoustic efficiency. I did a video on sensitivity with mids a while back and with mids that figure did seem to match up. With subs that just doesn't apply for several reasons.
How about the age-old quest about 'bigger is better' ? I want to get an SA-8 because I'm limited to 500 watts(600 watts clipping), but some say larger is better. Would you put that to the test? My sub would die at some point, and I want a fresh setup as well. And yes, you are correct on the sensitivity measurements. They are only done on *one watt* to begin with. And most of the specs manufacturers give you are just calculated values and not the actual measured value. The problem with making older subs play louder is their displacement limits. I don't remember an attainable sub at that time having more than 10mm Xmax even at the 12 inch category. So it became to use more of them lower-excursion woofers in order to increase displacement capacity, but with the drawback of less efficiency due to individual drivers making their own work, and add impedance rise to the problem. And voice coils at the era was just laquered copper wire! None of the 'black coil' some would have nowadays, or even just a hi-temp coil. Neither flatwound coils existed at that time as well! And considering how impedances gets lower and lower in order to fight impedance rise and to improve efficiency overall. Remember that an amp driven with 2 ohms would output more than twice than driving it on 8 ohms! And in place of that is higher currents, thus the chances of having coil trouble due to arcing or sparks became less, as less voltage is needed to create more power. And the problem of heat because of the current is now unlikely unless it is clipping all day long, or on the wrong box of the wrong power range. Manufacturers nowadays are not as 'reserved' like back then, before you can mistake a car audio sub for a home theater one! Now with the industry getting stronger over time, they now make designs that are much 'crazier' compared to that era, with clear distinction. Both in looks and in sound.
An SA8 would be OK on 500 watts, if you're using a ported box. Manufacturers are using actual measured values for specs (except for maybe RMS power), sometimes (or often times) those numbers are a fresh build with no play on them though, so effectively off by a lot. I can't think of anybody that uses simulated specs, that almost takes more work than just measuring a real one. Don't be fooled by "black coil" mumbo jumbo, they're no different or better than another coil. Being black doesn't make it better, they're typically 500 degree coils, just like American made coils and some Chinese made coils. Our Banhammer and Lowballer lines use "just lacquered copper wire" coils BTW, rated for 500 degrees and exceed it. Most older coils weren't large diameter, weren't as many layers, and weren't as long of winding width.
EMF Audio Of course it would be ported! And don't forget how bad old-school wire coating was...a transformer of that time can just spontaneously pop when gets too hot, nowadays only the cheapest ones would do. That's how the coating process improved.
I honestly think to do this test properly you need a calibration mic and do a sweep say 25hz to 120hz with a sealed box.. and compare response as the fs drops from the spiders getting weaker
What's that got to do with the subject at hand? That would only compare usable bandwidth in a sealed box, which isn't where some of the subs excel anyway.
@@EMFAudio what's the point of comparing anything if your not tuning the box to match to the specs of each sub. ? anyways really any good spl guy is going to build based on his subs specs, I take it even further I test the spec's of my subs using both a known volume box and a weight and find the spec's my self as posted specs are way off more often than not. then using the info i build tuned 6th orders for peek output or a ported box to match displacement and cone area. I do this for everything my emf subs, fi sub Dayton audio, tang bang, sundown's, dc tried it all. even the cheap 20$ door speakers in my wife's car. Hand made custom bluetooth speakers, and much more doing the sweep with a good test mic and a known volume box can teach you a lot about where on the tone curve the fs is and where it can and can't handle the power with the most efficiency. tuning is everything in the efficiency game. You build subs I give you my respect for that better yet you build really good subs. I build sound systems not just any but the kind that cost more then a house for concert halls and much more. We are both builders we just have different approaches I have a phd in mathematics and as such a strong numbers person I look at things from a different perspective that's all. My car system right now is dual fi sp4+ 18" with 5 spiders in a 6th order wall back tuned to 26hz front tuned to 42hz + 2 fi ssd neo 10's ported and tuned to at 44hz plus doors and the rest you expect in a 20kw burp hatchback this is a 2016 focus st with air ride lol this ride has rack mounted dsp's and gear amps are bassclef-17k's wired to 2ohm for efficiency power is a custom 18650 battery bank 16.4v 1320Ah(built from Tesla cells using 4 modules from a p85d) stock alt 4x 25amp dc to dc boost converters charging lipo battery. The car has a dead flat sq response from 28hz to 19khz thanks to minor dsp work and good box design also the SQ car can hit 167db at 34hz and hold it for 2hrs without stopping can yours ? With a simple port swap i can crack 170 at 39hz I'm wired at 2 ohm my subs don't get hot they might be rated at 3k but the take way more with clean power and efficient box design. The only painful part of the build was the 2.25in thick windshield and 1in thick side window
@@ZoeyR86 The point was not to find maximum SPL for each sub, it was to show that you can't look at paper specs and say "older subs were louder on less power" or compare a meter number from 20 years ago to today. That was explained a little in this video but even more in the first video. As I stated in this video, there are many factors that would change, which is also why those factors matter and NOT just looking at sensitivity ratings. As a multiple time SPL champion I can tell you the sub specs don't do much for calculating the box. There is a lot more to it, at least at winning levels. I'm not kidding when I say that 8" box is built for that car. It doesn't matter what sub you put in it, it performs better than anything you'll come up with without a ton of testing. That MTX 8 from 1993 is louder in that box on 300 watts than many walls in 1993 with 2,000 watts and 4 15's. What you're referring to as an SQ car (which I assure you, is not, if its a properly built extreme car). By todays standards a 170 in extreme is quiet, there are stock interiors doing 172's. That being said, I've been involved with extreme cars for about 15 years, including 180+ cars. As the guy that built the subs and involved in the build and testing I can tell you those paper specs mean squat for SPL. The loudest people in SPL don't even have the parameters on their subs.
Not to mention speakers back then weren't made for 2 ohms. Maybe not even four ohm. I don't know. Some v6 cars only make 400 🐎 but can beat a 800 🐎 car in a quarter mile. Can't figure that out either.
All the SVC's (except 1, due to what I had, not what was available) were 4 ohm in that era, dual 4 ohm was common when DVC's became available. I have answers for your car HP scenario too, and it's not as complicated as you think.
The SPL rating is based at 1 watt at 1 meter.. So how that works is you would need less power to get the same sound level... Everything will be different at anything above 1 ONE watt..
So you only listen to speakers with 1 watt of input? Everything is the same playing field when they're subject to the same conditions. Trying to use 1 watt as a reference would be less accurate because the measurement equipment can show 1 watt anywhere from 0.5-1.4 watts. So, one speaker could have 0.5 watts and another could have 1.4 watts in reality but displaying 1 watt. That means there could be nearly TRIPLE the actual power between speakers, which would potentially yield a 4.5 dB margin of error.
Love your videos Brother. I know I have a Memphis HPO15D4 did not have specs so I feed it a Crunch 700maxx watts then change to the 800w model and paralleled and it hits hard. You know the Crunch DRA850.2 is not 800wx2 I am not sure it would be 600w @2ohms. But it hit 140dB. My new subs in 1 vehicle are 1300w ea, on 1500w amps and not sure if it will hit 150dB, but I think 2 Memphis HPO15D4's on one 1500w should slap a 150 easy. Just an idea vs 3000watts for 2 subs. Poor MTX R.I.P. HAHAHAHA
@@EMFAudio What? Wrong is wrong. I explained it plenty. I even mentioned how people mistakenly use it interchangeably. Typical response. If you intend on educating people you should acknowledge when you're wrong and don't deflect. This wasn't a misunderstanding. You plainly claimed efficiency was a manufacture specification. Typically speakers are only 2% efficient so show me where you see this spec?
@@EMFAudio Firstly you have very poor reading comprehension because I have never asked anything from you. You're the idiot who will never be able to live this down with all the internet to see. I have repeatedly told you that you cannot express efficiency in any form other than a percentage. Don't deflect and twist your insanity into anything resembling reality. You know there is no shame in admitting your mistake and move on. You are not the first channel host I have corrected on this matter. Up to now all have admitted their mistake and corrected this in future discussions. You seem to have an inability to do the same. You are a contributing factor to all the B.S. that is spewed and regurgitated as fact online.
@@EMFAudio What is the unit for Efficiency? My book doesn't mention a unit, but this study guide asks the question. This is not homework, but my finals are this week and I would like to know the... show more 5 answers · Physics Best Answer there is no unit. its usually a percent. so it would be something like joules/joules, which would be nothing. Here is a cut and paste from a factual part of the internet. Moron
@@EMFAudio Efficiency Formula Efficiency is a measure of how much work or energy is conserved in a process. In many processes, work or energy is lost, for example as waste heat or vibration. The efficiency is the energy output, divided by the energy input, and expressed as a percentage. A perfect process would have an efficiency of 100%. η = efficiency (Greek letter "eta") Wout = the work or energy produced by a process. Units are Joules (J). Win = the work or energy put in to a process. Units are Joules (J). Efficiency Formula Questions: 1) A construction worker puts 20 J of energy in to one strike of his hammer on the head of a nail. The energy transferred to driving the nail in to the wood is 8.0 J. What is the efficiency of the construction worker's hammering? Answer: The efficiency can be found using the formula: You see where it says expressed as a percentage. Moron
so I have 2 old school rockford punch 10s, the pch-108's, I bought 2 new rockford p1 10s and compared the sound. The new subs were definitely louder in almost every way besides the quick punchy bass notes. I have no idea why but it seems like the older subs had a faster response. Maybe it isn't a new vs old thing but that is just what I saw in my findings.
I agree I got a pair of old school cerwin vega vflex 15s 500watt rms single 4ohm subs with 3inch coils and I also got a pair of nvx vcw 15s dual 4ohm 1000rms with 3inch coils now on the lower notes the nvx 15s get super low but on the higher notes with punchy bass they don't sound so good the cerwin vega vflex 15s kick ass on the higher notes with punchy bass out this world and the lower notes don't sound good as the nvx 15s so there are differences between older and newer subs
general kick ass cool to hear👍🏽 I hope there are still subs that can sound good like these old ones could, any sub can go boom, a quality sub can go boom and sound like guns popping off when the kickdrums kick in.
They were so cool. I always wanted them but my car was too small for a box that did them justice. Had to settle for having the wind knocked out of me at sound-off comps
That literally has nothing to do with it. If I build it in the USA or I build it in Mexico or I build it in China, I still built it. What matters is WHO made it, not where made it.
What about SQ does it really matter what components you get like old school MB Quart vs a modern Focal coaxial speakers? The best sounding speaker's I ever heard of was a pair of old school Altec Lansing car audio speakers from the 90's just my own opinion. Or what is more superior a dome tweeter or ribbon tweeter? Just coming up with some ideas . There is a Myth of a ribbon tweeter can't handle high spl vehicles they will blow.
Sound quality is subjective, but from a technology standpoint I'd say there are newer speakers that do sound better. That's not to say all newer will sound better, that's a case by case basis. Now, a myth is something that is believed to be true by masses with no proof backing if it is or is not true. Ribbon tweeters not handling high SPL vehicles isn't a myth, it's a fact, they will blow. I know of somebody that had them and blew them from closing their doors hard.
@@EMFAudio I love watching your videos I was just coming up with ideas. It's kinda rare that people post videos about mids and highs I know that noise gates is a thing of the past. I never saw a video of anyone posting on how to set up a DSP or anything in that type. Sound staging is critical for a car audio setup too like speaker placement.
EMF Audio if I purchased a “damaged” JL audio 13W7 and attempted to recone/fix do you think it would be worth it? If I get the sub cheap enough and somehow managed to find the soft parts, I’m hoping I can pull this off and come out with a badass w7 for cheaper than new. Just curious, thanks for any advice.
I would really like to see the rebuild of the mtx! I wish there was more videos of rebuilding subs. Custom and just recone! Love the videos keep them coming!!
I have seen them. I have seen all your videos probably three times. You and only a few other people have done them. I love what you are doing for the community and thanks for doing it!!! 🙏
