Boost Leaks are Driving me CRAZY on this Diesel Truck. Green Can O' Worms 3. 

Thank you for watching me struggle through this repair. Onto the next series. Thank you to everyone that has sent helpful comments. Would anyone be interested in me fixing an older Chevy Pickup Truck? Thinking about it. Thanks for watching. Amazon Affiliate Links to recommended tools: Fuel Pressure Gauge, Compucheck 0-300 psi: amzn.to/3YeBldu Airlift Cooling System Vacuum Filling System: amzn.to/3D9AlPu Radiator Pressure Tester Kit: amzn.to/3QGBumn Milwaukee 3/8" Right Angle Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3D2CvAk

It is a relief to know other very talented mechanics such as yourself struggle with problem children from time to time. Every time I get a service call to go check out a basket case truck the other guys couldn’t figure out I have to rethink my career path. Thank you for your videos and keep up the great work! 👍🏻

V-Band tightening trick: Yes, never sneeze helped lube the clamp to slide & adjust but, Once flange sealing surfaces are aligned & clamp installed & initially tightened, get a small ball-pein hammer. Think of the T-bolt side of the clamp as 12 o'clock. Begin tapping with the hammer at the 6 o'clock position then 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock. Tighten the T-bolt some more (it will be looser). Do that for several rounds all the way on both sides to near the T-bolt area. It will need to be tightened several times as the clamp sinks into the grooves deeper & deeper, wedging the flanges closer & tighter together. I learned this at an engineering/research facility, where engines ran for many hrs. & down time was very limited & bad! So we fixed them on the fly! At higher power leaks were easy to find with a shop rag on a stick or you could hear them whistling. This was slightly hazardous but was before Safety nazis monitored the test cells with cameras or locked the test cell during engine operations, plus the engines ran at 1200 to 1600 rpm, Not max rpm/racing. Good show of persistence!

Surprised your not using an evap system smoke tester for leak detection. Not terribly expensive anymore. Smoke and a strong polarized light works well with even smaller leaks and the flow guage is useful in determining the severity of the leak(s).

Guaranteed that thing will be back next week!!!

I found taking a mallet and tapping the clamp after tightening it then tightening again does seat it better. Try to torque it to the specs after that and see if it does tighten more. Worth a try. would have liked to seen the smoker used to see if any more leaks could be seen, used one to see intake manifold leaks.

this one was pretty funny.. I'm all for fixing it right, but when right doesn't work, there is always the dark side! haha.. I would have done the same, definitely if the money to replace the turbo was coming out of my pocket. Great work, and thanks for bringing us along on this one.

The movie references really killed me😂 Your a cool guy man👍😎

I would like to suggest using a cheap oil stone for cleaning the turbo mating face, rather than a sanding block. You can buy them at Harbor Freight for a few dollars. They are 8 inches long, about 3 inches wide and a bit over an inch thick. There is a fine and coarse side. Use some WD-40 or CRC for lube and go over the pitted surface in a circular motion. When done, switch to the fine side to finish up. They also work great for removing stuck on gaskets from iron/steel and aluminum surfaces. It abrades the gasket away and works best in the parts washer with constant liquid flow.

I was taught to tighten clamps a little, tap around them with a hammer, tighten a little more, then more taps and so on till tightened fully, it helps the clamp seat properly and pushes it down tighter pulling the surfaces together more,,, prolly wouldn't have helped in your situation though,,,,, that goat is the GOAT ,, dont ever lose him haha,

We use the same clamps on aircraft. We install the clamp, then tap it in different spots with a hammer to seat it, continue tightening, and repeat until you feel it's tight.

We got 10 acres behind our shop that's heavily wooded and every year we have a ton of mantis babies that are underneath our lights on the back of the building probably catching bugs at night but it's pretty neat see a couple hundred of them on the back of your building just hanging around

Live and learn and try your best! That's all we can do! 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for coming in today Fella 👌

Love the Kevin Bacon Tremors clip, perfect expression for the frustration. :)

I am going to teach you a trick maybe you do this maybe you don't. Tap around the outside of the clamp with a hammer. Basically as hard as you would tap a nail to walk it into green pine 2x4. So some force but not killing it. Walk around back and forth all the way are the clamp. Use a prybar if it is in a tight spot. Tighten it. Do it 3x. You may already do this and just didn't say this time around. Also for cleaning the clamp groove where it sits. Get it down to shiny. Also using a thin graphite or tin gasket like you find inbetween dpfs can help as well. I have had some luck with DPF aluminum tape that international used on it's DPFs. Then there is the buy thin soft copper sheet and basically put it inbetween. Max would be 1/16th thickness sheet copper. There is also the spray copper gasket stuff but from the video on my TV it looked like it might be too deep. There is a permanent fix way called acoustaseal but once it's together. It's together there is no taking it apart again. Hope this helps.

What a nightmare, there’s nothing more aggravating than taking the same thing apart 3 times in a row and still not getting it. Leaks of any kind suck, keep on fighting brother 👍

This green can o worms series was great, now I'm hoping we see a part 4 when it comes back. 😅

Just be glad all those regens are saving the planet 😂

Bet you are glad to see that one go... It SUCKS pulling stuff apart time and time again.

This truck needs decals on both sides of the hood that say "Abandon all hope ye who enter".

Get a finishing stone for cleaning sealing/mating faces instead of a sanding block. They're super cheap and what we use in the machine shop. It'll knock down high spots without scoring the surface and ruining the surface. You can also try tapping those flange clamps with a small hammer while you're tightening it, sometimes it helps everything find a home. Owner pinching too many pennies is going to cost him a lot sooner or later. The fact that its a day cab says a lot. 😂

It's quite soothing sitting here in NZ on a sunday morning watching someone else dealing with recurring problems. I was called in yesterday in check a burnt out starter that is only a month old. It was replaced with out anyone diagnosing why it burnt out in the first place.

You are a patient human being!!! Thanks for the help good sir!!!

Good efforts appreciate it

Josh, 2 things: EPA testing at GM we took the clam shell parts out of the clamps and welded them to Vice-Grip jaws for quick connect & disconnect. AND whenever we had a failure we had to repeat the test and average the two for a good test. We were not allowed to test and test and test until we finally one to pass. ben/ michigan higan

I'll give you credit for staying with it.

A can of worms is right. Great video and thank you. Jim

"Tremors" one of the best movies. There is a stainless steel tape that works to seal up joints like that. Once the clamp is on over the tape it will stay in place.

Work sucks. It’s Saturday, im going fishing.

you know this is a serious video when josh doesnt recall attempting to destroy the turbo with rtv 😂 still kudos josh for trudging on these one, ive also learned many more tricks for the hat in the comment of this series! keep em coming, even tho i work fixing cars, i still enjoy watching more about it 😅

Wow these emissions systems are junk in my opinion glad you got it sorted out finally thanks for sharing

Great content as usual Josh, really enjoy watching! I work on trucks in the UK and Although they aren't CAT I learn a lot especially diagnostic techniques from you. Look forward to the next one. 🇬🇧🔧🚚🤙

I've had that same problem before and I've taken and rolled up a small sheet of aluminum foil enough to go over both the joints and down along the clamp face. Good luck!

Good job

Great video, love the added clips. Thanks for the content!

It's great that you show work that is not a total success, or at leat not to your satisfaction. Because that is reality, that's life, sometimes.

Good lesson for me to learn, thank you!

I love the tremors references. Always was a huge fan of that movie.

Maybe you could find a machine shop to just clean up the flanges of the turbo housing where you still get leaks.

Blimey What a nightmare job .at least you hot it to seal some what to get the regen done 😮. You get all the good jobs 👍👍👍

Good job big boss

I enjoy your videos,I was a mic and did diesel mechanic Rop back in my day

I'm would have tried some lapping compound, and then clean thoroughly.....reading through the comments, others would have tried this as well. That side of the engine looks like hell to work on.....your a good man to keep calm working on that.

Great work , too bad your customer wasn't down to do a single turbo swap. Keep it up the good attitude sir regardless of the pain

When I worked on Air compressors I had a 12 inch square steel plate that was machined flat so I can use wet sandpaper on to lap components, valve plates. Also there is 3M stainless steel tape you can buy and cut to size to wrap around joints then place clamp on. Kind of a field repair for corroded components but it seals.

Miss the old school pre emission stuff. Was so much simpler and cheaper to fix. Keep up the good work Josh. This one drove you nuts I'm sure

Thanks 🙏

Always love the work you do weather major or minor

Thanks Josh for bringing us along on one of the most frustrating parts of our job! I'm amazed that the customer hasn't went to the dark side and had this one deleted. So many of them have by now. I use the antiseeze on the vband clamps too and whe they get installed I tighten them up then wack them with an 8 ounce hammer to tighten them up more then hit the clamp nut again. It helps a bunch! Also can you find out where you get the air pipe block off that you had on the engine side of your air system? I'd like to get the boss to buy us one too. Our air line pressurization kit is getting pretty beat up and I'd like a better setup. Thanks for the video and pain for us.

FWIW… 4 suggestions: 1) if you’re going to use anti-seize on exhaust components - Walter Surface Technologies Rock ‘n Roll.

When iv worked on 6.0 powerstrokes i found the best way to clean up turbo housings was sand blasting. Also id hate to be the next guy that has to split those gray silicone glued joints😂. Btdt with electrical connectors, turned into a repin with a new connector.

I had an 08 Pete 386 with the c13 cat and I had one of those oil lines rub the turbo housing and blew in a construction zone and I couldn’t pull other for a while. I had oil EVERYWHERE!😂

Hi Joshua. Realy enjoy your videos. Think you Are professional and thorough in your work. Pro tip on these style clamps is i always tighten them, then give them a round of knocking with a ball peen hammer around the outer diameter. This in order to Get the v-band to Seat properly, and Shake loose any rust left on the flanges. Then i tighten the clamp to specs again. After the knocking my experiense is that the clamps Seat better, and seal better. Best regards heavy Equipment and oilfield service engineer for 20 plus years in northern Norway 👍😊 keep up making the good content💪 really enjoy your channel🤩

Great work josh on a horrible job, love your sense of humour 👍🇮🇪

This video now makes it where I lose count on how many times I thank my lucky stars I purchased a truck tractor without this emissions excrement. I have essentially been renovating when will continue to renovate for probably another couple years my 2000 Freightliner Century with a 1999 Cummins n14 engine. Regens are undefined withthis vehicle.

Rust really did a lot of damage to that system for sure glad you got it going.

I do this on armoured vehicles and it can be frustrating to find leaks. The greatest tool ive seen is the sonic leak detector its a must have for tool box now I point and find the leak in seconds with no issues.

Try tapping on those flange clamps with a hammer after initial tightening. It helps force the clamp ways down intern tightening the mating surfaces. You can also tap on the two pieces to create vibration to relieve the stress and help draw them together.

I've had slightly mismatched like that before, some lapping compound to work them together helps.

When I have to use av gasket I would let it sit it seems to help it. But with the air leak it will help gather mass within the system and finally seal. But you’re patients are great

We use air pressure to leak-test hydraulic units we rebuild after function test and use a regulator like you do to prevent kabooms. We also use a different air connector on the test fitting end so full shop air can't connect easily or by accident.

Yeah, up here in the great rusty northeast, "touch nothing you dont absolutely have to" was and is the prime directive. Sometimes even that isnt good enough, I swear Ive had brake lines start to leak, and plastiv pcv lines crack just from the stress of having been observed.

Enjoy your weekend with all your family around you Adept Ape Brilliant video Thanks for sharing it with us 👍 SHREWD Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 18:55pm Good Evening

Had a c13 acert with the same issue. Secondary low mass air flow. I chased the issues for weeks. Would regen fine on the road but not while stationary. Guess it couldn't get the boost pressure up. Would always fail the air verification test, test point 2. Minimum should be 1.1 psi and i kept getting like .04psi. Finally we had enough and im currently puttingn a remain in it right now. Also had 1+ million miles, highish crank case pressure and lowish oil pressure...

That looked like a frustrating job. Hopefully it holds up and works. One more reason to get pre emissions vehicles

Might sound crazy, but its possible the intake manifold air pressure sensor is plugged up with soot giving a false reading. Cummins would be the same way and sometimes fail regens. Overtime that soot will build up inside the sensor. I would take a q tip with isopropyl alcohol and clean it, give it a few gentle taps on a table to drop the soot tucked up inside of it. Once it's dry, installed it back in manifold. Fire the truck up then it do a full regen. You wont necessarily have a check engine or code for this sensor so long as it has a reading of airflow. Generally codes for IMAP sensors are for open circuits or bad sensors however can fix a variety of problems due to faulty reading from charged air going into the intake.

I had a mechanical work order, used the same type of clamps but on a water system, it only stopped leaking when I changed the clamps a second time.

Can of smoke or a burning incents stick is good for finding leaks (don't use on petrol or LPG engines for volitility of those fuels, diesel is pretty safe). Soapy water works but messy. Stethiscope is handy too.

Another item you can try is Belzona. It's an epoxy with metal mixed it. Once it dries you can lap it to get it back flat. It's some nasty stuff though, it will burn your sinuses like pepper spray.

Would've recommended to check relative compression and run an overhead. Usually it's a poorly performing engine that struggles to boost rather than some minimal leaks. Another helpful strategy is to step away from it and reassess your clues, as it's so easy to get tricked in a rabbit hole after finding a problem but not the problem.

Hey Buddy!!

That mantis wasn’t praying you startled him. He was about to go full Wick on you.

What a nightmare! One product I use for sealing stuff is Threebond (AKA Yamabond, Permatex Motoseal) which has more of a latex rubber texture. I use it on nearly everything, but only a VERY light skim. It's designed for stuff that needs to come apart, especially 2 stroke crankcases that are metal to metal. After the light skim I let it cure for a while before assembly if I don't want it squeezing out.

With what they spent on your labor to keep pulling parts off and cleaning and putting back on multiple times they probably could have replaced the part that was bad ! I hate doing a job that you have to band aid because you know deep down its not going to last ! But your limited to what the customer wants I understand ! Great job ! Great troubleshooting ! 👍👍

This is the one truck he wishes he could delete

That's surprisingly low boost pressure for a truck; I was expecting a lot more. Like 20-30psi or 14,7psi at the least.

I have had good success with Loctite liquid metal on hydraulic fittings that wouldn't seal, I think it would also work with air.

I always go around and tap the clamp as much as I can then tighten it and tap again and tighten again

Go to hearth and fireplace store - and get yourself some of those sealing ropes for wood fired fireplaces. Because you will not find asbestos packing anywhere anymore.

I die laughing every time you use Arnold clips very tastefully done 😂

You should try pulling a vacuum on it, then take a small fog machine and spray the fog over all your suspect connectors.

Damn near everything I work on is as problematic and infuriating as this truck, so I definitely feel your pain.

Like you I'm not a big fan of silicone but I have seen it stand up to exhaust temps on a race car so it's not going to melt out. As for your leaks I'm just wondering it lapping the sealing surfaces is possible. I don't know I've never worked on a diesel in my life but I do know it works on valves. Thanks for the video and keep the good stuff coming.

Surprised no one had recommended anaerobic sealer on the joints. It is my go to if anti-seize doesn't work.

We have to replace the turbos and the compression clamps. Using locktite is a BIG no-no 😱 I suppose it's up to the customer on your end though. At the Seguin facility we only have one option

Forget that copper anti-seize Josh. Go right for some JB Weld on those clamps and your worries are over. The next guy that has to work on it though...not so much!

Hey just wanted to let you know we buy a high temp epoxy from our dealer cat dealer for exhaust. I have had really good luck with it. I don't the cat number. Made by loctite.

Seems like there should be a better way to connect air plumbing on these diesel engines. Just fought the leaking clamp issue on the exhaust side of an International engine. Finally got it after several days.

Short of replacement you could try a machine shop resurfacing the flanges, personally I’d be replacing the whole system I hate leaks lol

Having been in this business a long time, I sympathize. You fix a leak here, then the pressure is back to normal and all the other old, weak parts leak or blow outright. Which as far as the customer is concerned it's your fault as you last worked on it. Generally, old machines have many problems just from being old, and you are supposed to have fixed them first time round. Just looking at the corrosion, I've got a feeling this engine was parked for a long time, probably because it had a problem which the original owner didn't want to fix it at the time. So he sold it. Now it needs to be revived, and it's your problem now.

Very tight space to work and hard to clean behind turbo hard pipes

a very accurate description of the term "P.I.A.".the kind of day you wished you couldve stayed in bed.

Wonder if you would have glass beaded the parts to remove scale and rust, would it have helped. What I have seen on the ASVT, if Combustion Air Flow is 160's and less, more than likely it will fail. 170's is boarder line and anything 180's and up are OK. I also found a few that the ARD head swirler plate had excessive carbon build up restricting air flow. Another test I have done is put the engine at 1400 RPM's and put 12 volts on the Combustion Air Valve so I can hold it wide open, while looking for leaks around the sensor. Seen a few that the orifices in the Combustion Air tube to sensor was partially plugged. I also take the Combustion Air tube off the valve during the test, sometimes. Just to see if the Combustion Air Valve is opening completely up. As you well know if the system has to much back psi, the sensor just reads it as low flow. So sometimes I take the tube lose at the ARD head just to see if I get a really high flow reading. Boost PSI during the REGEN should be around .740 if I recall. Also as I have done ASVT with Boost sensor reading on the turbo side checking restriction across the CAC. Looked up my notes and system's that has a ninety degree configuration, may not do a successful stationary REGEN. Only transient REGEN's will work. Glad you have it, I need what little hair I have.

That's not only one can of worms, that's whole wormfarm. Throwing a granade at it and rebuild it from scratch might would be easier, buuut, admiring the effort, enteraining but then very useful in problem solving techniques... thanks

Ok like you I agree the silicone is a short term fix at best but if customer don’t want to defeat the entire def system how about adding a bung use a gauge to bung and ball valve using supply air from truck and manually increasing when you need to regenerate after regeneration shut ball valve and go about your trip until you need another manual registration

I've had a turbo leak coolant from the center section into the compressor housing. customer had replaced most of the egr system ($$$😢) himself before bringing it to me for diagnosis.

I am surprised that you were not using air only and not a smoke tester. I have personally found smoke is much easier to find boost leaks with. Note Aviation Form-A-Ggasket only works on smooth flat (machined surfaces) A possible better solution to sealing those pitted surfaces might be gettinvg some of that nasty aluminum paint that certain automatic transmission rebuilders like to use to cover up the crappy case cleaning job with. I know several people who use that stuff as “head gasket” in a can on their top fuel Harley’s and also coat their copper head gaskets with it when they want to lower compression. I haven’t purchased a can of the stuff in a couple of years but the last time I did I used it to seal a similar problem by spaying some in a cup and using a small paint brush to apply several coats to the surfaces I was trying to seal and yes it worked like a champion.

I've never used Aviation Gasket Cement on a metal to metal flange seals without a fiber gasket.

That clamp(241-2634) and the bellow(270-8524) it attaches to are awful to change. That bellow always seems to break if its not on the perfect angle.

To me it looks like the V band clamps are bottoming out, if they bottom out the clamp is not squeezing the faces together. Take the clamp off and press the v back closed or try new clamps. I've had this happen with these clamps after a couple of tightening cycles, worth a shot.